Driver's Side Window Update was :( and now :)
05-29-11, 07:00 PM
#1
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Driver's Side Window Update was :( and now :)
I've been pretty much forced due to time and money to work on my driver's side door window by myself, but hope to bring in my neighbor during the next week who is an electrical genius (I admit, I am no expert on this).
As I mentioned over the years (going back about to mid-2006) my front driver's side door has been on the fritz. During such time, one of my uncle's friends reconfigured my window to work, but with the drawback of having to hold the button in the up or down position to move. If you look at some of those window DIY, you will see how the top of the motor in several of those figures is taken off and attached to the side with some electrical tape.
Within the past month, the window has gone all but dead. I ended up finding out that my regulator (big metal thing that the window slides on) was also bent so ended up getting an aftermarket Dorman regulator that fit like a charm. I also got a motor from them, but couldn't get it hooked up exactly right and had to mix and match from the old motor and new motor to get it attached to the new regulator. That also worked sparingly.
Despite checking fuses, following reset procedures and running through the gambit of procedures in the service manual (and even taking the battery out of our 4Runner to check that possibility), nada...can hear the motor but no movement. Even removed the glass run and window and installed it.
My neighbor and I think there could be a frayed wire somewhere in the mix, because my front driver's side door speaker is also dead even though the electrical tester checked out with it and the amp was okay.
Will keep people informed but have a lot to do these coming weeks.
A few pictures below of some of the progress (or lackthereof
)
First photo shows new regulator on the left and old one on the right.
The aftermarket regulator is a Dorman 740-326.
Second, shows the Dorman regulator with 'hybrid motor'
The Dorman 742-600 is the closest aftermarket motor I could find for the price, but you have to tap (i.e., make threads for the three holes for an M5 bolt (OEM bolts), but the other issue was that wiring to door only had two wires, not other wires necessary for auto up/down procedure, so motor is a hybrid version with bottom magnet (silver part) hooked up to this motor. Now, I did take the original motor and hook it up without regulator or window, but eventually after several turns it would stop (so why would I tap the bolts to begin with). However, the regulator fits like a charm as evidenced by pictures 3 and 4.
I have also examined the main switch even swapping it with that of my neighbor across from me also with an RX300 and no dice.
Have to root through some more wiring and hopefully will track down the issue.
At one point, I got frustrated enough (and actually have a few more times over the years) of nearly wanting to install a manual roll up window (using a Toyota manual regulator). Not impossible but certainly challenging.
Right now the window sits in the upright position for the time being.
As I mentioned over the years (going back about to mid-2006) my front driver's side door has been on the fritz. During such time, one of my uncle's friends reconfigured my window to work, but with the drawback of having to hold the button in the up or down position to move. If you look at some of those window DIY, you will see how the top of the motor in several of those figures is taken off and attached to the side with some electrical tape.
Within the past month, the window has gone all but dead. I ended up finding out that my regulator (big metal thing that the window slides on) was also bent so ended up getting an aftermarket Dorman regulator that fit like a charm. I also got a motor from them, but couldn't get it hooked up exactly right and had to mix and match from the old motor and new motor to get it attached to the new regulator. That also worked sparingly.
Despite checking fuses, following reset procedures and running through the gambit of procedures in the service manual (and even taking the battery out of our 4Runner to check that possibility), nada...can hear the motor but no movement. Even removed the glass run and window and installed it.
My neighbor and I think there could be a frayed wire somewhere in the mix, because my front driver's side door speaker is also dead even though the electrical tester checked out with it and the amp was okay.
Will keep people informed but have a lot to do these coming weeks.
A few pictures below of some of the progress (or lackthereof
)First photo shows new regulator on the left and old one on the right.
The aftermarket regulator is a Dorman 740-326.
Second, shows the Dorman regulator with 'hybrid motor'
The Dorman 742-600 is the closest aftermarket motor I could find for the price, but you have to tap (i.e., make threads for the three holes for an M5 bolt (OEM bolts), but the other issue was that wiring to door only had two wires, not other wires necessary for auto up/down procedure, so motor is a hybrid version with bottom magnet (silver part) hooked up to this motor. Now, I did take the original motor and hook it up without regulator or window, but eventually after several turns it would stop (so why would I tap the bolts to begin with). However, the regulator fits like a charm as evidenced by pictures 3 and 4.
I have also examined the main switch even swapping it with that of my neighbor across from me also with an RX300 and no dice.
Have to root through some more wiring and hopefully will track down the issue.
At one point, I got frustrated enough (and actually have a few more times over the years) of nearly wanting to install a manual roll up window (using a Toyota manual regulator). Not impossible but certainly challenging.
Right now the window sits in the upright position for the time being.
Last edited by Lexmex; 05-30-11 at 06:36 PM.
05-30-11, 02:38 PM
#2
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Worked a little more on the issue this afternoon and now we apparently have a positive resolution. I'll try to describe the steps in detail.
1. I decided to try to use the new Dorman 742-600 motor in its entirety. For this, I bought an Irwin Hanson 5mm 0.9 pitch tap that I attached to my drill and made threads for the three holes on the motor. I put the motor together and was ready to work.
2. Removed the window regulator and motor and replaced with the new motor (and Dorman 740-326 regulator that I had been using). I had a slight issue shown in the second photo below where one of the screws that holds the bottom of the motor to the top of the motor together was too long and was preventing one of the three bolts that attach the motor to the regulator to go through. I used some washers and everything worked like a charm.
3. I put back the original M5 bolts from the old regulator into my newly tapped threads on the motor and attached it to the regulator.
1. I decided to try to use the new Dorman 742-600 motor in its entirety. For this, I bought an Irwin Hanson 5mm 0.9 pitch tap that I attached to my drill and made threads for the three holes on the motor. I put the motor together and was ready to work.
2. Removed the window regulator and motor and replaced with the new motor (and Dorman 740-326 regulator that I had been using). I had a slight issue shown in the second photo below where one of the screws that holds the bottom of the motor to the top of the motor together was too long and was preventing one of the three bolts that attach the motor to the regulator to go through. I used some washers and everything worked like a charm.
3. I put back the original M5 bolts from the old regulator into my newly tapped threads on the motor and attached it to the regulator.
05-30-11, 02:44 PM
#3
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4. I proceeded to check the motor and regulator (and reset it) by putting hooking it up to the electrical connector on the door.
NOTE: The Dorman motor does not have the extra three wires necessary to perform the auto up/down motion (unless my someone tells me to the contrary). I was going to splice the old wire from the old motor, but decided to use one of the three wires that came with the Dorman motor and modify one of the connectors (actually chopped it up) so I could attach it to the electrical connector on the door.
5. I followed a test procedure I had read elsewhere. I reattached the regulator (and motor) and installed it in the door (without the window for now) and attached the electrical connection (which I later sealed with electrical tape). I ran the motor up and down. When it was in the furthest most up position I held it for 10 seconds and then let it down, also holding it for 10 seconds.
NOTE: The Dorman motor does not have the extra three wires necessary to perform the auto up/down motion (unless my someone tells me to the contrary). I was going to splice the old wire from the old motor, but decided to use one of the three wires that came with the Dorman motor and modify one of the connectors (actually chopped it up) so I could attach it to the electrical connector on the door.
5. I followed a test procedure I had read elsewhere. I reattached the regulator (and motor) and installed it in the door (without the window for now) and attached the electrical connection (which I later sealed with electrical tape). I ran the motor up and down. When it was in the furthest most up position I held it for 10 seconds and then let it down, also holding it for 10 seconds.
05-30-11, 02:47 PM
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6. The glass run I have on my window is old (isn't everybody's by now?) Rather than spend close to $100 for a new one (I don't have the cash for this and I couldn't find an aftermarket part) I used lithium grease along the length of both sides of where the window runs up and down (see photo)
7. I raised the regulator half way up until I could attach the two 10mm bolts that hold the window together. Now the window was in place.
8. I tested the window several times up and down and then put the door panel back on.
For now, it appears to be functioning and I plan to watch and see if the lubrication on the glass run was a possibility there, though the 10 second reset instructions seemed to work quite well and had not been tried before.
NOTE: No issues running it after several hours. Was finally able to go through a drive-thru and not have to open my door to order and get my food. Was a welcome change.
Keep in mind, with this aftermarket motor I do not have auto up and down, but have to hold the button up or down, but I will take that over spending much more cash.
7. I raised the regulator half way up until I could attach the two 10mm bolts that hold the window together. Now the window was in place.
8. I tested the window several times up and down and then put the door panel back on.
For now, it appears to be functioning and I plan to watch and see if the lubrication on the glass run was a possibility there, though the 10 second reset instructions seemed to work quite well and had not been tried before.
NOTE: No issues running it after several hours. Was finally able to go through a drive-thru and not have to open my door to order and get my food. Was a welcome change.
Keep in mind, with this aftermarket motor I do not have auto up and down, but have to hold the button up or down, but I will take that over spending much more cash.
Last edited by Lexmex; 05-30-11 at 06:37 PM.
06-15-11, 09:48 AM
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I am now having problems with the auto window function. It closes then opens back down to halfway. This happens with the driver side controls and the passenger side controls for this window. I have to inch it up manually. If I hold the button down too long, the auto function kicks in and opens the window halfway pon closing again.
I saw that you said you had no auto window function on the motor because you did not have 3 wires that controls such a function. I would like to find out which 3 wires they are and perhaps disconnect on my motor to disable auto window. I don't suppose you'd remember which wires were missing on your Dorman motor?
I saw that you said you had no auto window function on the motor because you did not have 3 wires that controls such a function. I would like to find out which 3 wires they are and perhaps disconnect on my motor to disable auto window. I don't suppose you'd remember which wires were missing on your Dorman motor?
06-16-11, 06:16 AM
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I am now having problems with the auto window function. It closes then opens back down to halfway. This happens with the driver side controls and the passenger side controls for this window. I have to inch it up manually. If I hold the button down too long, the auto function kicks in and opens the window halfway pon closing again.
I saw that you said you had no auto window function on the motor because you did not have 3 wires that controls such a function. I would like to find out which 3 wires they are and perhaps disconnect on my motor to disable auto window. I don't suppose you'd remember which wires were missing on your Dorman motor?
I saw that you said you had no auto window function on the motor because you did not have 3 wires that controls such a function. I would like to find out which 3 wires they are and perhaps disconnect on my motor to disable auto window. I don't suppose you'd remember which wires were missing on your Dorman motor?
If you plan to go ahead with this project, let me know.
06-20-11, 09:15 AM
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It seems my window can indeed be closed, but only if I hold down the window button while it is closed for what seems to be about 7 seconds. And even then, only from a fully opened position. I've decided not to disconnect the wires right now, since it does function somewhat. Removing the door panel again, and prying out all the little bits, is something I don't look forward to doing again. When this new trick stops working, I'll suck it up and snip the 3 wires you've outlined for me. Thanks!
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06-25-11, 06:56 AM
#9
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As I mentioned it takes a bit of work to either splice the harness or modify one of the three harness to work along with tapping the bolt holes, but it does indeed work. I have to make one judgment after using it for a few weeks...I don't think it is any bit louder than any of the other windows, unlike some of the posts I have seen on the Internet about using these aftermarket windows.
Another useful feature at least in Mexico of not having auto up/down is that there were times down there that you really didn't want to roll down your window all the way for safety/security reasons.
10-15-11, 11:33 AM
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This is a great write-up.
Without removing the panel, is there any way I can tell if I need a new regulator or just a motor?
The Dorman motor seems like the most economical route instead of purchasing an old salvaged motor.
Without removing the panel, is there any way I can tell if I need a new regulator or just a motor?
The Dorman motor seems like the most economical route instead of purchasing an old salvaged motor.
10-16-11, 09:53 AM
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Unless it's bent or needs lubrication, your are generally looking at the motor.. There's no real way to be 100% sure unless you can get back in there if you got a busted motor (or it could just need some lubrication). The only other thing you can do is spray some lithium grease in the glass run to see if that helps the window get up and down better.
07-15-12, 04:29 PM
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I'm about to tackle a window motor replacement, but I'm curious why the Dorman motors don't work with the auto-up/down features? Don't Camry's and Highlanders have the same feature? The Dorman website doesn't list any compatible Lexus motors.
For those that are trying to diagnose whether its a motor or switch problem, I used the all-close/open feature by using the key in the door (holding the key to close/open all windows). I figured it it doesn't work this way, its got to be the motor.
For those that are trying to diagnose whether its a motor or switch problem, I used the all-close/open feature by using the key in the door (holding the key to close/open all windows). I figured it it doesn't work this way, its got to be the motor.
07-16-12, 11:52 PM
#13
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I'm about to tackle a window motor replacement, but I'm curious why the Dorman motors don't work with the auto-up/down features? Don't Camry's and Highlanders have the same feature? The Dorman website doesn't list any compatible Lexus motors.
For those that are trying to diagnose whether its a motor or switch problem, I used the all-close/open feature by using the key in the door (holding the key to close/open all windows). I figured it it doesn't work this way, its got to be the motor.
For those that are trying to diagnose whether its a motor or switch problem, I used the all-close/open feature by using the key in the door (holding the key to close/open all windows). I figured it it doesn't work this way, its got to be the motor.
07-17-12, 07:40 AM
#14
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You said 'tad' right?
That is supported.
If you flick the button ... you get small movement.
If you prolong the flick ... like flick and hold for a 1/2sec (approx) the full travel happens.
If you HOLD the button during full travel (you over-ride the pinch protection and recalibrate the mechanism).
The only problem is if you want the glass to stop at a certain location then you need to do repeated flicks.
This is how it works on my RX .. Some one else can confirm.
Salim
That is supported.
If you flick the button ... you get small movement.
If you prolong the flick ... like flick and hold for a 1/2sec (approx) the full travel happens.
If you HOLD the button during full travel (you over-ride the pinch protection and recalibrate the mechanism).
The only problem is if you want the glass to stop at a certain location then you need to do repeated flicks.
This is how it works on my RX .. Some one else can confirm.
Salim
07-17-12, 09:14 AM
#15
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My RX window switches have sort of two positions. If you press it a little, it'll let you adjust the window however much you want. Then if you press the switch a bit further, you can feel a sort of click, at which point the "auto" function enables itself.