hypervish

There is part of the bolt, left but it's the part that rests on the flange.

I've attached a few photo's to give you an idea of the broken bolt, the replacement Toyota genuine bolt, and for anyone else who encounters this and needs a new nut the size you will need is M10-1.25.

salimshah

If I cant get two nuts going then I would use tool similar to this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Self-Adjusting-Quick-Release-Pipe-Wrench-/300389738771?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f09fa913
Salim

hypervish

I'll order that tool for the future, in case I run across something like this.

I'm planning on driving it over to my uncle's shop tomorrow, it's a bit far about an hour's drive. (which is why I attempted to do myself first, and it's always fun learning something new)

I'm assuming it's safe to drive it like this, since there is still one bolt holding it together?

Thanks Salim!

hypervish

My uncle used a plasma cutter and just cut off the old nut and part of the flange around it.

Nice and quiet now after replacing the gasket!

Builder3

Perhaps this question will answer itself after removing the gasket, but which direction should the flat part if the gasket face, towards the front or rear?

dnelli

The gasket above looked like a donut type of gasket in which case, gets oriented only one way.

Rudy602

I've found that the fire breathing wrench [torch] works every time. If you heat around the nut to expand it, you'll probably be able to turn the broken bolt out if you can get a good enough grip on it with vise grips or small pipe wrench. Heating also helps the oil penetrate deeper but be careful because it's flammable. Use a rag or paper towel to contain overspray and try to keep the spray on the threads as that's the only place that it's doing any good - the rest is just a fire hazard. Obviously, keep an extinguisher handy. I've found a torch to be a necessary tool for exhaust work esp. if you live where they salt the roads in winter. If you look at the pics of the bolts in question, you'll see quite a bit of threaded area beyond the nut that is so corroded the threads are hardly recognizable and unlikely to ever pass through the nut in order to remove the bolt. I added extra nuts to cover and protect those threads on the new bolts. Seems like a good place for stainless steel fasteners.

fastnoypi

Liquid Wrench isn't flammable. Works well if you have a torch handy.

Rudy602

PB Blaster has a "high flashpoint" but will burn. I'll have to try the liquid wrench. Thanks.

mroxas

How do you check that there is a leak on that gasket ?

salimshah

you can feel the exhaust leak.

To aggravate the situation, you can take a rag and momentarily choke the exit. Dont over do it as it can foul the plug.

Salim

vaki2

Old thread but just want to say thank you. Here the part numbers:

Spring: 90501-35032
Bolt Flange: 90109-A0023
Gasket: 17451-0D140

PBlaster night before and than again in the AM and let sit for another hour. Wire brush everything before you start. Was very rusted but came right out. Springs could have been reused but bolts were in bad shape.

If you buy same parts from Toyota vs Lexus they 50% cheaper as long you have the part numbers.

pilottodd2

I recently replaced my flex pipe with new bolts and gaskets. No approximately every month the forward bolts start backing out and the forward gasket fails.
The bolts are factory new for this specific application. Anyone else having this problem? Any solutions? Bent flange? Thanks.

fastnoypi

try some nylock nuts or just an additional set of nuts to lock your existing ones in place

salimshah

I was unable to understand ... flex couplings are welded on both sides. Please post picture. Post #16 in this thread has the spring flange. There is a flange which uses spring and nuts. What torque did you set them to?

Double nut solution would work. The nylon nut may not be able to withstand the temperature.

Salim