splacek007

Have a 2002 RX, now 100K miles.

Had the timing belt only replaced at 85K miles. I heard an internal noise at around 100K miles, it was the idler pulley. Ordered OEM pulleys, belt and water pump and replaced. 500 miles later I need a new idler pulley. After warm it audibly chatters. With the timing belt cover off you can feel it.

Now I know why people get rid of high-mileage cars...seriously? Toyo and Lexus parts are supposed to be bullet-proof right? I've read that people only change the belt and go on these pulleys for 180K miles...my '94 Camry did it to 200K.

Question: can you think of anything internally that would be chewing up an idler pulley? Or just bad luck...thanks.

thomas1

Is it the idler with the spring tension adjuster?

salimshah

Where are you buying your parts from? There is a market for OEM rejects/2nds etc.


Salim

splacek007

I purchased parts through mylexparts.com. Everything came in what appeared to be original packaging. This is my first experience w/ them, and I've already had problems...I'm going to see if they will make it right.

The idler pulley is not the pulley w/ the tensioner. Just a round, bearing-packed pulley. I believe in some circles it's also called a timing idler?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Take off the timing belt cover and see if there are any black residue on the pulley. I had the same problem with an ES330 and I originally thought it was the pulley (even replaced it), but it turns out that the belt was leaving residue to the point where after the engine warms up and idles, you can hear pulsating squeaks.

code58

This is amazing to me. When I replaced the W/P, both idlers (1 tensioner, 1 idler) and the AM belt that I had put on at 97k mi. at some where around 127k mi., I cut apart the ORIGINAL parts with a cut-off blade on a die grinder, the bearing you're referring to (upper one) absolutely looked new, still had live grease feeding the bearings and the ball bearings ALL mic'ed out EXACTLY the same. (all ***** in all the bearings including the W/P are exactly the same size). the bearing could have passed for new. I would say bad luck, which for T/L is very unusual.

Were the bearings you received from from the online Lexus dealer red seal or green seal??? The original bearings have been Koyo for as long as I can remember.

Also, you said you bought the parts and had them replaced, or did I misunderstand this??? Who replaced them for you, if you didn't? Are you certain the parts you bought were used on the car??? And are you certain that ALL the work was done, and done properly??? (don't know how it would be very easy to do the idler replacement IMproperly, it's so simple. There is nothing that I know of that could be done wrong to cause the failure of that bearing. I am such a curious soul that if they won't replace the bearing or if they don't require the old one back, send it to me, I'll pay the postage, cut it apart to see what went wrong and send it back to you so you can see with your own eyes what went wrong. T/L does use some of the finest parts I've ever seen, in a lifetime of automotive work. PM me.

artbuc

Roger, you meant Koyo bearings, right?

code58

Art- You've got to keep an eye on me. I tried to rename the bearings and you wouldn't let me get away with it. I was trying to get it closer to "Toyota than "Kia" (why doesn't this site have a "LOL")??? My favorite "smiles" character and he's "missing in action". How Ya been? Miss you since you joined the "elitest" group of the (other,dark) side after the untimely demise of your RX!

splacek007

Thanks for the replies...

Red seal Lexus part.

The local shop is generally good - quality work, pay a bit more, but well-respected in a small community. I'm sure the work was done/replacements installed.

Got the wife's car back yesterday (Thurs.), $380 later ($110 for a POS Gates part to replace the Lexus idler pulley) and drove it today...after a 10-minute drive parked, popped the hood - same bad bearing noise coming from the timing belt cover area. A scraping. I have a feeling it might be the OEM w/p recently installed. Obviously, the idler pulley was not the problem. I'm going back to the same shop only b/c I'm not paying to have the work done twice.

Code - I'd send you the pulley, but it sounds like that may not be the problem and I may have them reuse it over the Gates (and get my $110 back).

code58

007- It will be interesting to see how this plays out. Anything is possible but in cutting the W/P apart (it made me sick because it was ALSO absolutely new, at upwards of 130k mi.) I found it to be so finely engineered (and built) that I couldn't imagine one ever going out. I wonder IF the mechanic did something wrong if he would actually admit it. I worry a little about anyone who would replace the idler when it's so easy to check it with a mechanics stethoscope. It's certainly easy to get to the bolt that holds it on with the upper cover off, and maybe even without pulling it all the way off. You can tell I'm a firm believer in a MS, I have 2 of 'em. Keep us posted.

artbuc

Sounding more and more like "operator error". Unfortunately, the truth will probably never be known.

PS The Aisin WP on my Avalon 3.0 V6 did have a sticky bearing so I replaced it at about 87k. It probably would have lasted forever but I couldn't sleep knowing my WP bearing wasn't happy!

Barryst

I wonder if it could be the lower timing belt cover rubbing on the back side of crank pulley. Care must be taken reinstalling it, I know mine was rubbing the first time I was done doing my timing belt, and I had to remove a few things to correct it. I also believe OEM parts are bullet-proof. All my used parts still looked great.

splacek007

Operator error may be the issue. I know he did mention that a bolt broke off during the original w/p removal. I am hoping that nothing was cross-threaded.

I will try to check the cover...but the issue is, at start-up - no noise. After warm, then what is almost assuredly a bearing noise. What in the heck, in that timing belt area, would change from cold to warm other than the w/p? Hmmm...

Whether or not the mech. used a stethoscope, I'm not sure. He indicated that he could feel the idler pully when he put his hand on it...the problem must either be transferring through parts - or something else? I hope that there is nothing in the interior of the engine that would somehow transfer out to the timing belt area upon the engine warming up.

No one in this area is open until Monday morning, and then I have to schedule an appt. I'll keep you updated. Thanks for the info.

Barryst

It was probably one of the 2 torx-headed studs that help secure the water pump that he snaped off taking them out. I know mine were TIGHT! I almost broke one off myself. They must use loctite on them. I ended up jacking up my engine from below, slightly, and being able to slide the water pump off without removing those studs. I did have to remove the two camshaft pulleys to take the rear timing cover off to slide the pump off the studs, though. I believe if you can get the studs out you don't have to do this step.-

Hope you can find the noise!

code58

Correct Barry, if the bolts are out the W/P will go in and out fine at a 45 degree angle. No gear removal necessary. I snapped the "torx" end off of that bolt (1) but was able to get the bolts out anyway. Steel doesn't play well with aluminum and tends to "seize" and break loose with a "snap", which it wouldn't if it were loctited.