Audacity

I'm ready to change the rear brake rotors on both my 2001 RX and my 2000 ES. Could anyone tell me exactly what size bolts I need to use as the "pullers" for either (or both) vehicle(s)? I'm talking about the bolts that you screw into the rotor that work like gear pullers when the rotors are hard to pull off the car.
Thanks, Martin

Barryst

I don't know if its like my 1999 rx300, but did you have to back off the emergency brake by pulling the plug on the rotor, and backing off the adjuster wheel with a screwdriver.Sometimes you have to turn the rotor to find the adjuster.
I think my bolts were close to a 5/16-18.
Mine I recall were coming off easy, once I backed off the inner shoes...

Hope this helps.-

salimshah

For rears, I would be very reluctant to use the screws. The drum portion can really mess you up.

I would even advice against replacing the rear rotor altogether.

Do wear a mask working on brakes .. specially the drum part as lot of dust is trapped in there.

Salim

iolmaster

iTrader: (1)

As I recall they are 8mm.

trhs75

I used 8mm x 1.25 pitch bolts when I did mine. Just a little pressure broke things loose on the front. I can't remember if I used them on the rears or not. Salim has a point about the drum shoe assembly in there. The rotors weren't very hard to remove. I think mine had all been turned once, so I replaced all four when I did the brakes myself.

Audacity

Salim - I'm sorry, but advising against replacing the rear rotors altogether is ignorant advise. I've read quite a few of your posts and you strike me as having a fair amount of knowledge so I generally value your input. I wouldn't be replacing the rear rotor if it didn't need doing. You're advising me to run without rear brakes - bad idea. I mean no disrespect.
I asked for the bolt size just in case. I always make sure to have the bolts in-hand before taking the rotors off just in case I have trouble cracking the rotors free.
I haven't done these rotors before, but I don't recall having to deal with the e-brake when changing rear rotors on other cars. I'm going to have to clean up the caliper because I think it was the root of the problem, but why would I have to deal with the e-brake?
Thanks Everyone,
Martin

salimshah

First I am not offended at all. We can have difference in opinion and since it is your vehicle, you need to be the one who makes the final call.

And I am not infallible and my advice/suggestion can be flawed too, and I would be first to admit that in past they have been wrong at times.

Each case is different. One should examine the situation and then proceed.

The rear rotor on RX is a combined disc and drum brake. It is like a hat and the center portion is the drum -ebrake. The rim is the rotor disc-brake section. They are together... one piece.

On the rear, you can have rust on the hub that holds the rotor stuck [just like the front one] BUT the e-brake can hold the rotor from inside. Baryst also mentions the star nut that need to be backed off to lower the e-brake shoes. All this is not visible and if you use the screws to provide leverage you can mess up the e-brake mechanism. I would suggest patience and break the rust bond by working it instead of the leverage from screws.

Post what you find out about the caliper, piston, rotor. Problems with rear rotor are very unlikely ...but as you said it can happen.

Salim

Barryst

When I had mine apart, everything looked fine! I had already purchaced new shoes, so I just replaced them. And again as Salim mention, I will also caution! Only because I messed up one of the retainer cups that hold the shoes down by pulling on the disc and it was pulling the shoes inside with it! I really learn by my mistakes!

hypervish

Sometimes if you forget to move the star wheel to let the shoes loosen, things can go wrong FAST.

lexina

The bolt size is the one that holds down your battery bracket.

Audacity

Thanks much everyone. This sounds a lot different than any rear rotors I've done in the past, but I'm going to tackle it later this week. First thing I'll do is look for the "star wheel" once I get the wheels off. Is the "star wheel" an auto adjustment for the e-brake? I remember the self adjusting drum brakes from years ago.... Once I pull the rotor will I be looking at exposed drum brake pads?

Audacity

Sorry-one other question: Are the rear rotors on my 2000 ES300 the same design as on my 2001 RX300?

jimmouse

I remember it is 8mm. Just remember to release the e-brake, which will otherwise grab the rotor. I did mine. It is a cake.

Audacity

Where exactly is the "star" that I need to back off to release the e-brake? Do I need to tighten that back up after replacing the rotor or will it do it automatically by using the e-brake a couple times when I'm done with the job?

salimshah

There is a dime size hole in the hat portion. [the studs come out of similar holes] but this one may have a rubber boot. Pop it of and spin the hub till you see the star nut ... You are right .. the mechanism is the self-adjusting drum brake. The star nut gets bumped up by the travel amount. Your past experience will guide you through the steps.

Rubber mallet is a good tool to have. Also try rotating the drum/rotor. There is 1/8-3/16 of a play in the stud holes and the drum. Once you can spin the rotor by that amount, you have broken the hub-bond. If the rotor/drum does not slide off, the e-brake is holding it from the inside.

The mechanism is the same in RX and SC line, but I cant say for sure if the rotors are interchangeable between any models.

Incidentally, some where you misinterpreted my post as a recommendation to drive with bad brakes. That is not the case.

Salim