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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
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Oxygen Sensor (O2) Bank 1, Sensor 2 DIY
#31
The wires could be spliced but by doing so the splices would be under the vehicle and exposed to a very harsh environment. With the proper splicing tools and the correct harsh environment splices a weather proof connection could be accomplished. But most DIY people don't have all the speciality tools for such a job.
Doing a job that only needs to be accomplished once every 100,000 to 200,000 miles is something the installer has to determine whether to splice or not.
Doing a job that only needs to be accomplished once every 100,000 to 200,000 miles is something the installer has to determine whether to splice or not.
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CHUWANT (10-30-19)
#33
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
No, it's more emissions than anything, but I knew after replacing the a/f sensors up front (and those looked really messed up), I wanted this replaced. We do not have emissions in Florida, so it was not a big deal. Just something I wanted to get out of the way.
#35
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Thanks for the great tutorial. Do you know if this sensor being out can trip P1130 and P1150 DTCs? My OBD2 reader says that OS2 B1, S2 STF is operating at 0%. It also says that the fuel sys sta b1 and b2 have a state of CL, Faulty HO2S (which I take to mean heated oxygen sensor). Any help is greatly appreciated.
#36
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Thanks for the great tutorial. Do you know if this sensor being out can trip P1130 and P1150 DTCs? My OBD2 reader says that OS2 B1, S2 STF is operating at 0%. It also says that the fuel sys sta b1 and b2 have a state of CL, Faulty HO2S (which I take to mean heated oxygen sensor). Any help is greatly appreciated.
The A/F sensors upstream are usually the culprits there, not the O2 sensor that I replaced in this DIY. When the 2 upstream A/F sensors start to get worn, they will pop P1130 and P1150 codes (and similar ones)
#38
Driver School Candidate
I just ordered a Bosch SmartLink sensor (part number 15739). This sensor will involve splicing, but the kit is made for that. I will be replacing it in a couple of weeks and I will report on my luck with this sensor. I really do not want to cut through the carpet, or take it off.
#40
Driver School Candidate
I just ordered a Bosch SmartLink sensor (part number 15739). This sensor will involve splicing, but the kit is made for that. I will be replacing it in a couple of weeks and I will report on my luck with this sensor. I really do not want to cut through the carpet, or take it off.
Also, this sensor seems to be cheaper than others. On Amazon it costs just $45.77 right now.
Last edited by razali2k5; 02-13-11 at 11:13 PM.
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CHUWANT (10-30-19)
#41
Lexus Test Driver
Hey Lexmex or anyone for that matter, I'm getting ready to change the sensor on my rx300. I looked under the seat and saw a cut in the carpet already there... I saw the same cut in your picture, so did it come like that from the factory or did someone already replace the sensor?
If that is the correct cut should i just make it bigger?
Cause I'm getting code 0420, and i figured it was this sensor, but IF it's already been replaced then it must be the CAT correct? I already have the sensor so I'll install it anyways...
If that is the correct cut should i just make it bigger?
Cause I'm getting code 0420, and i figured it was this sensor, but IF it's already been replaced then it must be the CAT correct? I already have the sensor so I'll install it anyways...
#42
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
That cut was already in the carpet from the factory.
I made the cut bigger to show everyone for the purposes of the DIY, but you may or may not need to make it bigger.
I made the cut bigger to show everyone for the purposes of the DIY, but you may or may not need to make it bigger.
#43
Lexus Test Driver
Is the sensor directly underneath that cut or to the side? I believe it's to the right side, no?
So which way should i cut it bigger, because i can't really feel the sensor connection by putting my hand in the hole.
So which way should i cut it bigger, because i can't really feel the sensor connection by putting my hand in the hole.
#44
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
You can peek through the crack and see in there, but if you are sitting in the back seat and looking toward the front of the car, then from the middle of that cut, a bit to the right and forward.
#45
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I'm attempting this DIY and hit something unexpected. The nuts holding the sensor to the mount on the exhaust pipe have completely rusted away (see photo).
From what I can tell, the only thing holding it and the metal "shield" to the pipe is corrosion. I tried (gently) to move the sensor and shield but it won't budge.
My questions are: Should I soak the whole thing with penetrating oil and see if it can be worked loose? If so, any recommendations (PB Blaster, Kano Aerokroil)?
Assuming it does come off (without complications), should I do anything special when putting the new nuts onto the studs?
The pipe itself doesn't seem to be in great shape so I don't want to use brute force on it.
Any and all thoughts/recommendations are welcome. Thanks!
From what I can tell, the only thing holding it and the metal "shield" to the pipe is corrosion. I tried (gently) to move the sensor and shield but it won't budge.
My questions are: Should I soak the whole thing with penetrating oil and see if it can be worked loose? If so, any recommendations (PB Blaster, Kano Aerokroil)?
Assuming it does come off (without complications), should I do anything special when putting the new nuts onto the studs?
The pipe itself doesn't seem to be in great shape so I don't want to use brute force on it.
Any and all thoughts/recommendations are welcome. Thanks!