jimbo409

I am thinking of buying a rx 2001 with 98,000 miles Is changing the timming belt really necessary and when has everyone done the timming belt and water pump. I know they recommend 90,000 but alot of rx I looked at have over 140,000 and no timming belt change. Also is 12,000 a fair price to pay for this car which is in nice condition. Thanks Jimbo

bob2200

It makes you wonder about stuff like oil changes when they've gone 100,000 miles+ without changing the timing belt. It's probably a bell-shaped curve. If you plan to hold the car a while, why not do it now instead of later? Depending on options, $12,000 sounds very fair to me, but then I paid $36,000 (new) 8 years ago.

mklemovitc

I think $12,000 is high. I'd say $10-11,000.

I have an '01 Silversport with 121k miles that I'm looking to sell soon in favor of a new RX 450h. It has had all scheduled maintenance including timing belt at 90k and spark plugs and PCV valve (and every fluid in the vehicle replaced) just recently @ the 120k service. I'm thinking $10,000 is a fair price for mine, might settle for a bit less.

code58

I also think $12k is a little pricey. Some people are always used to paying retail for a new car. I have never paid any where near retail and therefore feel used price is also much lower than book realistically. I know a guy who bought an '01 RX for his wife about 6 mo. ago from a private party for $7k. I believe it had about 120k mi on it. A few very minor things wrong but actually a pretty nice car owned by a lady. I do believe he got a good deal, but a lot closer to realistic (maybe a little on the low side) than the $12k is.

JohnLX300

iTrader: (2)

I paid 8,500 for my 99 RX300, with 81,725k, in January of 2009.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

The SUV market tanked in 2008 and hasn't recovered at all. Dealers and private sellers can ask whatever they want for a car but to get a realistic assessment of what it's worth, you need to find out what they'd pay for the same car. Believe me there's a HUGE difference.

I'd say $12,000 is on the steep side and I don't think anyone will be beating a pathe to the sellers door to buy it at that price.

Bocatrip

I am planning on purchasing next week a one owner 2001 RX300 with 90,000 miles for around $7500 that also has never had timing belt changed. From what I'm reading, it's not all that risky to drive without changing at this time. In addition I believe this is a non-interference engine which if failure occurs, the inconvenience of the tow to the mechanic could be the total damage. How do the waterpumps hold up at these miles? Are there many issues with leaking water pumps under 100,000 miles?

code58

Concerning the Inter- as apposed to the Non-inter, It IS interference under the right conditions. This subject has been BEATEN to death. The reason for the uncertainty is because of the VVT. Because of the VVT, the valves may or may not be in the way when the piston comes up. I think it is safest to assume that it's Inter and change the TB when you are comfortable with it. I am one who has posted many times on this subject and hold to the position that you don't have to worry for a long time after 90k mi, but the choice is yours. When I changed the ORIGINAL belt in my DIL's RX at 97k mi. it looked like it had 20K mi on it. The belts are made in a completely different process than the ones that were rated at 60k mi. Some of those didn't make it to 60k mi. I have only ever read of 2 people who CLAIMED to have had a belt break (at way beyond 90k) and when I asked about details, there was no response in either case. One CLAIMED that it broke when the WP seized. I cut all the parts apart (W/P, Idler pulley and lower tensioner pulley) with a die grinder and cut-off blade when I changed them in my DIL's RX and they are some extremely high quality parts and were still almost like new condition. The W/P looked like new at around 127k mi when I changed it, as did the upper idler pulley. The only part that looked like it should be replaced was the lower tensioner idler pulley. I mic'd the bearings and they mic's exactly the same as the W/P and upper idler (they all have the same size bearings) but the grease was completely dry on the bearings. There was grease in the bearing, but not on the *****. The W/P and upper idler are both double row of bearings and the lower tensioner is a single row, I think that's why it taxed it a little more. Nothing went out, it just made a little screech for a couple seconds when you started it because of being dry. Hope this helps you some!

P.S. You CAN take about 3 or 4 bolts out and pull the cover back enough without taking anything else apart to take a peek in at the belt.

Bocatrip

Code58.......Thank you for all the helpful info. Are the 3 or 4 bolts you are referring to on the timing belt cover?

code58

Yes. Pull the ones toward the front top.

jimrx300

My wife and I just bought a 2001 RX300 Silversport with 106k on it. We found Edmund's "True Market Value" system to be helpful in getting an idea what actual sale prices are in our area. Can't say for sure if it is biased high or low -- perhaps others here have experience with it?