cplyons

I just bought my first Lexus - an excellent 2000 RX300 which just had the engine replaced (paid for by Lexus). The new engine has about 50 miles on it. The shop filled the new engine with Mobil 1, mindful of the gelling issue that crapped out the original engine.

Question: everything I've read says to break-in a new engine with a petroleum based oil, then around 500 to 1000 miles switch to a synthetic. They also say that after running synthetic you shouldn't switch back. So, would it be best to drain the Mobil 1 immediately and refill with dino oil for break-in, or just stay with synthetic now and at my first change at 500 miles?

Lexmex

Welcome to the Club.

That used to be the case with older motors, but now you can run synthetic straight on a new engine. In fact a lot of vehicles come synthetic straight from the factory.

On a side note, I'm not a big Mobil 1 fan. There's nothing wrong with the oil right now so don't pour it out, but if it's 5W30 I'd run it about 3000 miles or so. I just had consumption issues galore with that particular oil and have used currently Castrol Syntec 0W30 with a larger oil filter, the K&N HP-2009 (HP-1002 is the original sized filter). That particular Castrol product I've seen at Pep Boys and Autozone and some Napa Stores. Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 is a more common oil also better than Mobil 1 and you can find that about anywhere. Very soon, I plan to try the Pennzoil Ultra 5W30 Euro when it's in stores as a test, but the Castrol Syntec 0W30 is a wonderful oil that's endured a lot of tough miles (I change it out every 7,000 miles) without issue.

cplyons

Excellent! Thanks for the guidance. I've been to your blog and site and found both to be really really useful (and entertaining).

Is the K&N HP-2009 a drop in filter replacement, or are any modifications needed?

Lexmex

Oh, I'm talking about the oil filter on the HP-2009.

If you're referring to the air filter, then it's 33-2145-1, and it's a drop in.

I used to use that K&N filter about oh maybe 5 years ago before I modified my intake. I used to have trouble with the oil on the air filter coating my MAF sensor. So what I did was dunk the filter in some warm soapy water, dry it off and carefully spray only the side facing the air flow (the downside of the filter when you put it in the airbox).

Aprazur

I bought my RX from the dealer in Dec 1998 and have been using Mobil 1 since its first oil change. Thats over ten years and 112K miles. I've always changed the oil and filter myself.

I've never added a quart between oil changes (about 7,500 to 10,000 miles) in the first eight years (95K miles). About a year ago I started getting oil leaks on the garage floor and would have to add a quart between changes.

As I've never done any work on the vehicle other than one sensor and one marker light bulb. My conscience got the best of me and with Ron's (Lexmex) help via his excellent instructions. In the last month I bought a OBD2 scan tool and changed the plugs, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed the rear end and transfer case oil for the first time, changed to PIAA low beams and HID fog lights. She ought to be good for another 112k?

Also, I tightened the valve covers and oil pan bolts and it looks like the oil leaks have stopped! [B] I'm sticking with Mobil 1.

Jerry

code58

I am in complete agreement with Lexmex on the oil issue in his post. Some people have great luck with M1 and others, not so good. I also would leave it in for what he recommended. It's certainly not junk, but I would consider the (German) Castrol. I think Castrols oils are excellent oils, dino or synthetic.

JohnLX300

iTrader: (2)

I had the same oil consumption issue with Mobile 1, I used M1 0w30. Car ran great, but it consumed a lot of oil. My car had 86k, I am the second owner. And when I pulled the valve covers, I'm pretty sure the previous owner used dino. So I was thinking maybe using M1 from a dino to synthetic change causes consumption issues. But it you use it from the beginning you'll be ok.

code58

If you follow the M1 debate for any length of time John, you'll see that the history of the oil is that it's not consistent. Probably most people that use M1 have good luck with it and wouldn't use anything else. When I was in business years ago, my partner had purchased a new Toyota PU and put M1 in at about 4k mi. Driving down the street with about 1500 mi. on the oil, the oil light comes on. Nothing on the stick. Went back to dino and no oil usage at all. When M1 was 1st being tested in the (I believe) Philidelphia PD cars, they found that some of them drank the stuff and some didn't use any at all. These same cars were pretty consistent with dino oil. That's the history of M1. Your mileage may (or may not) vary.

Lexmex

The problem for me occurred after they got away from the M1 Trisynthetic formula of a few years ago. It took additives for me to to slow the issue, but by then there were other good oils available in Mexico (we didn't have much to pick from and/or getting others was really expensive). Remember when I used to shell out $30 a quart for Castrol Syntec 0W30?

1nablxsonr

Is it recommended to stick with synthetic, once u start? We bought our 99' rx300 from a dealer that used K1 type of oil, unsure if that's synthetic or not. Has anyone use, or know what type of oil it is?

Lexmex

Mobil (at least most dealers I have seen and especially in Mexico) was pumping out the dyno oil for Toyota/Lexus, but it's anyone's guess if they were using synthetic or regular oil.

I'd stick with synthetic just because it's a better product. Not to say regular oil is bad, but it then comes down to how you drive, climate etc.

My 3 picks right now are the Castrol Syntec 0W30, Amsoil 0W30 and Pennzoil Platinum 5W30. I may add the new Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W30, but I'm going to reserve judgment until I try it out.

code58

And they did that to you without a gun?

Lexmex

The only place you could get Castrol Syntec 0W30 in Mexico was at a BMW dealer. I tried directly with Castrol...no dice.

Forget trying to ship it down. You needed to have a hazardous materials license to do this in Mexico (a.k.a. you ship it via Fedex, it ain't going through). It had such a long drain interval, at that point I didn't care.

Moreover, an oil change with Mobil 1 and additives (my old setup) used to run me $100 with filter (I think I have a photo of that somewhere in my archive). Plus, if I paid in cash in Mexico, you don't have to pay the 15% sales tax (that's the law, not some under the table deal).

Lexmex

This is what I am talking about.

You can in the first photo how the hose leads to nowhere and there is a rubber stopper where it is supposed to attach to. I put duct tape over the hole first then put the stopper on top in order to seal it up better. I already have a big vacuum with the way my intake is designed but it works okay.

Then on the other side by the PCV valve you can see the PCV fully open (it's been hollowed out) and the rubber stopper with duct tape where the hose would connect.

The PCV valve as you can see in the final photo shows light through it from having been hollowed out in order to allow better flow.

Haven't had any issue running this setup.

hypervish

The UOA's for Penzoil Ultra look pretty good right now. But, it's way too early to tell how good of an oil it actually is, it'll require more UOA'S. I've already bought some Penzoil Ultra, I just need to get around to changing it now.