python1

I have seen many posts on the driver door lock not working using the key fob, using my fob to lock the doors,all doors lock except the drivers. putting the key into the lock does lock all doors. from the inside when pushing the power door lock closed, all locks close except the drivers. The drivers i have to lock by pushing the lock closed. Does anyone know if the $ 5.50 actuator sold by all electronics will cure the problem instead of changing the whole thing at the dealer for $ 500.00??? thank you

code58

Yes it will. Do you have any mechanical experience and tools? I have done a number of them and it's not really bad at all, but if you don't have either one of those, or a friend that does, it's probably not going to work. It does require a little bit of ability to visualize what is being described and ability to follow those directions. There are some very good pictures and instructions and it can be done for the cost of the actuator plus some time. Just search and you'll find all you needed.

python1

Hey thank you for the confidence, i do have a friend who has a class 2 mechanix license and works for sears, he said he would do it for me. He was hoping that after he takes the actuator assembly apart there wont be any gears stripped where you have to replace the whole dealer part for $200-250, but since you have done this many times,it seems that you are saying that the $ 5.50 part will do the job! that would be great thank- you -D

code58

Python- Spent my life in automotive work and have a pretty good handle on it. I cut 3 of the 4 actuators apart on my DIL's RX. They are electro-welded together and in no way ever meant to be taken apart. I used a razor knife and was able to cut them pretty well at the seams. I then super glued them back together. The problem is the tiny little brushes in the tiny little Chinese made $1. motor. The brushes simply wear out and even though I took the motor apart and cleaned the powder and junk up inside and emeryed the brushes and reshaped the brush holders, they didn't work much better, just not enough brush left. If he does it for you, tell him not to waste his time taking ANYTHING apart. All of that stuff HAS to be in place for everything to work properly. The $5.50 auxiliary actuator is simply "piggybacked" in place to do the job the factory motor is no longer able to. There are NO stripped gears, just worn out brushes that cannot be replaced. The pictures and "how too's" are EXACTLY what you need to do. It was a lot more work on my DIL's because I did it before any of this was encountered, so I had to figure it out for myself and was done differently and I also did all 4 doors.

python1

code 58, sounds good i ordered today the part from all electronics, and my mechanic friend will do it , he feels confident after reading your posts and the diagrams. I have to laugh when this works for $ 5.50 plus my labor vs the dealer at $ 500.00. Welcome to the world of specialty mechanics right? ! D

code58

Let us know if he has any problems but he shouldn't if he simply reads the directions and observes the pictures in the one thread.

python1

We got in the all electronics actuator today and opened it up and took out the motor which has a round casing. the factory motor is flat on the top and bottom.will this round motor fit in the factory actuATOR CASING? wHAT DO WE DO?? THANKS d

salimshah

Oh Oh, Are we trying to repair/replace the actuator motor or adding what is called a "piggy back" solution?

Repair/replace the motor is tedious and requires physical matching. The piggy back solution is much simpler with the only tricky part being where is attaches to the lock mechanism and where you mount it physically.

Salim

code58

Python- I would say you and your Sears mechanic didn't bother to read the VERY GOOD directions as to EXACTLY how to do the piggyback install. Much easier than trying to replace the original flat motor, to say nothing of trying to locate one. Next time it would be GOOD to read the instructions!!! I can't help but wonder why I bothered to post the help that I did when it said CLEARLY not to touch the original stuff AT ALL, but simply follow the directions for the piggyback. Oh well.

python1

You are right code58, we will re -read it and pay closer attention to detail, thank you for your patience. Dont give up on us we will get the job done! thank you and salimshah

code58

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=41219

Python- as you can see this is on another Lexus forum but go there and on about page 7 go down to post about 93. I explain how I did it and on post about 96 the guy I did it for posted the pictures. See if that doesn't help you. This is the "PIGGYBACK" method, which is the only reasonable way to do it. You don't touch ANYTHING in the door. You only remove the inside door handle to attach the rod.

python1

much appreciated code 58, will download the pictures as soon as the administrator from the other forum accepts my sign up, it wont let me view until then. thanks D

MLEE4984

Hi all, sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but would this be the correct part to purchase to repair my door lock actuator?

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-Wire-Power-D...item19b742f39c

TIA,
-Mike

hypervish

Yes, and no. If your looking to do the piggyback method then yes. But, if you want the OEM Actuator setup than no. I suggest doing the piggyback method, as it's much cheaper. If your a DIY-er this should be quite simple, but time consuming.

code58

Mike- that would be the one. I have used that actuator from that company and they worked fine. Very powerful. I would make a suggestion for 1 small change from the directions (with pictures) of one of the installs that I did. PM me if you're interested. It really isn't a lot of work at all.