DIY Oil Change
02-28-16, 08:13 AM
#76
Racer
Those were brittle as well. My valve cover seals were visibly all cracked but somehow didn't leak. They had no flexibility at all and one corner actually ripped when i attempted to remove the cover. If i didnt have an oil consumption problem, the valve cover seals would have leaked sooner or later.
02-28-16, 09:56 AM
#77
On this note of using high mileage oil; I used it several times for oil changes already even though I may not have needed it; i just started using it for more for peace of mine then anything. So that hopefully the valve cover seals dont "brittle out" on me. by that i mean so they dont become hard and start to leak etc. For some reason this past oil change I forgot to ask them to use high mileage oil and they put in regular instead. Hopefully it wont pose a problem though when i go to switch back for the next oil change.
02-28-16, 08:37 PM
#78
my mechanic had mentioned last year that my oil was leaking and that i needed fix the valve cover seal or gasket or something.
02-28-16, 08:48 PM
#79
73 mm 14 flutes - 1 step should be single one time purchase. I threw out my band type filter tool and the ~ $5 purchase has been great (for my other cars too).
My crib with the filter position is that it drips right on top of the front engine mount. This mount has the electronic inverse kicker to dampen the motor vibration and is an expensive piece to replace. Engine oil and rubber mounts don't like to coexist.
Some one posted that if you loosen the filter ever to slightly to get a gentle stream going, it can be caught in a pan below. I dont have the patience so rags is all I stuff to catch the flood.
Salim
My crib with the filter position is that it drips right on top of the front engine mount. This mount has the electronic inverse kicker to dampen the motor vibration and is an expensive piece to replace. Engine oil and rubber mounts don't like to coexist.
Some one posted that if you loosen the filter ever to slightly to get a gentle stream going, it can be caught in a pan below. I dont have the patience so rags is all I stuff to catch the flood.
Salim
02-28-16, 09:17 PM
#80
Moderator
Salim
02-29-16, 06:09 AM
#82
Moderator
03-01-16, 09:30 AM
#83
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: OR
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I'm a mechanic so I do plenty of oil changes on the 3.0l v6 that Toyota put out. This is the best tool that I have used for them:
I got mine off of the Matco tool truck but this is the same thing. I've tried a bunch of different things including the the filter wrench sockets and the three prong filter remover.
I got mine off of the Matco tool truck but this is the same thing. I've tried a bunch of different things including the the filter wrench sockets and the three prong filter remover.
03-04-16, 04:36 PM
#84
Moderator
Gents:
I have moved the discussion on oil to a different thread. Lets try to keep this one a DIY and its followup.
Thank you for your cooperation.
Salim
I have moved the discussion on oil to a different thread. Lets try to keep this one a DIY and its followup.
Thank you for your cooperation.
Salim
03-07-16, 07:43 AM
#85
Moderator
My typo which I often do (mind to hand coordination).
Unfortunately as a Mod I can not change/fix/modify the title.
Super mod is needed .... Lexmex?
Salim
Unfortunately as a Mod I can not change/fix/modify the title.
Super mod is needed .... Lexmex?
Salim
03-09-16, 11:57 PM
#86
I'm a mechanic so I do plenty of oil changes on the 3.0l v6 that Toyota put out. This is the best tool that I have used for them:
Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive
I got mine off of the Matco tool truck but this is the same thing. I've tried a bunch of different things including the the filter wrench sockets and the three prong filter remover.
Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive
I got mine off of the Matco tool truck but this is the same thing. I've tried a bunch of different things including the the filter wrench sockets and the three prong filter remover.
in case anyone wants to know,
denso is 73mm-14 flutes
wix/fram is 74-76mm-15 flutes
mobil1 is 76mm-14 flutes
03-10-16, 10:27 PM
#87
Moderator
You may not like the title, but I had to choose one.
Where is the evidence that you have oil gel problem?
What is the urgency to switch to synthetic oil?
I stand by my suggestion ... top of oil. Run some miles .. engine must sustain operating temperature for about 1/2 hr a few times.
Drain and examine the oil. Decide if you need an additive. I personally do not like them ... that does not mean that no one should use additives. All it means is do your homework. It is your vehicle, do what you please.
Change filter and run regular oil for 3000 miles. Look for leaks and loss of oil.
Then decide to transition to synthetic.
Salim
Where is the evidence that you have oil gel problem?
What is the urgency to switch to synthetic oil?
I stand by my suggestion ... top of oil. Run some miles .. engine must sustain operating temperature for about 1/2 hr a few times.
Drain and examine the oil. Decide if you need an additive. I personally do not like them ... that does not mean that no one should use additives. All it means is do your homework. It is your vehicle, do what you please.
Change filter and run regular oil for 3000 miles. Look for leaks and loss of oil.
Then decide to transition to synthetic.
Salim
03-10-16, 11:32 PM
#88
You may not like the title, but I had to choose one.
Where is the evidence that you have oil gel problem?
What is the urgency to switch to synthetic oil?
I stand by my suggestion ... top of oil. Run some miles .. engine must sustain operating temperature for about 1/2 hr a few times.
Drain and examine the oil. Decide if you need an additive. I personally do not like them ... that does not mean that no one should use additives. All it means is do your homework. It is your vehicle, do what you please.
Change filter and run regular oil for 3000 miles. Look for leaks and loss of oil.
Then decide to transition to synthetic.
Salim
Where is the evidence that you have oil gel problem?
What is the urgency to switch to synthetic oil?
I stand by my suggestion ... top of oil. Run some miles .. engine must sustain operating temperature for about 1/2 hr a few times.
Drain and examine the oil. Decide if you need an additive. I personally do not like them ... that does not mean that no one should use additives. All it means is do your homework. It is your vehicle, do what you please.
Change filter and run regular oil for 3000 miles. Look for leaks and loss of oil.
Then decide to transition to synthetic.
Salim
Last edited by hsmac; 03-11-16 at 04:51 AM.
05-09-16, 10:08 AM
#89
Using flush for oil change
I bought rx300 2000 AWD with 199000 miles. I read somewhere it is sometime dangerous to use flush or seafoaming as it will release the plaque which might get stuck somewhere and stop oil flow (specially with old valve cover gasket).
Also what is your opinion going from conventional to synthetic high mileage oil?
Thanks for your help in advance
Also what is your opinion going from conventional to synthetic high mileage oil?
Thanks for your help in advance
05-09-16, 10:45 AM
#90
Moderator
Please lets leave this thread as DIY.
We can have choice of oil, frequency of oil and manufacturer of oil [never ending] discussions in so many of the other threads.
Salim
We can have choice of oil, frequency of oil and manufacturer of oil [never ending] discussions in so many of the other threads.
Salim