RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

Broken Wheel Lock

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Old 08-01-09, 03:23 PM
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artbuc
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Default Broken Wheel Lock

My old brain has finally let me down. I always IMMEDIATELY retorque lug nuts after getting new tires or alignment. Tonight I attempted to rotate the tires on my wife's RX. Been 7k since getting the new Alenzas and 4-wheel alignment check. I say check because no adjustments were necessary.

I'm not sure if I forgot to retorque or have so much faith in my alignment guy (he is meticulous) that I decided I didn't need to retorque. In either case, the rear lug nuts were frozen. I always start by removing the wheel lock first using the lock key and vehicle lug wrench. I have never had a problem since they are always torqued to 76 ft-lbs. NOT THIS TIME! On the first wheel, the wheel lock itself broke. On the second wheel, the wheel lock key broke.

I have McGard locks but don't have any paperwork on them. If I call Lexus with the VIN, do you think they can tell me which key to buy?

Also, any tips on how to remove the two broken locks? There may be enough left that I can break them with an impact wrench once I get a new key. If that doesn't work, I may have to buy a special wheel lock removal kit.

What a mess!

Edit: YIPEE! I found my McGard secret code and registration paperwork. Still have to figure out how to remove the broken locks though.

Last edited by artbuc; 08-01-09 at 04:16 PM.
Old 08-01-09, 04:34 PM
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mikey00
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The best thing I ever did was to throw away the wheel locks and get 4 regular nuts from Toyota. You really don't hear of anyone stealing stock wheel/tires anymore unless you live in the wrong neighborhood. Of course I didn't get rid of the locks until I was in the same situation you are.
I ordered 2 replacement keys from McGard. First I overtightened the other lug nuts on the wheel (recommended by McGard) and then tried to remove the lock with the new key and lug wrench. First one came off. Second one snapped the key. Now I only have one key left. I used an impact wrench on the rest (recommended by McGard) and they came off. You stand a better chance of not breaking the key with an impact wrench. That is why all the tire guys like to use it to remove your locks. Of course, long term this is not a good thing. You can find some removal tips on the McGard website.
If I ever buy some exotic wheels and feel the need for locks again, I think I will always have 4 regular nuts and remove the locks whenever the car gets any kind of service and re-install them later. A hassle I don't really need.
Good Luck.
Old 08-01-09, 05:04 PM
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artbuc
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Originally Posted by mikey00
The best thing I ever did was to throw away the wheel locks and get 4 regular nuts from Toyota. You really don't hear of anyone stealing stock wheel/tires anymore unless you live in the wrong neighborhood. Of course I didn't get rid of the locks until I was in the same situation you are.
I ordered 2 replacement keys from McGard. First I overtightened the other lug nuts on the wheel (recommended by McGard) and then tried to remove the lock with the new key and lug wrench. First one came off. Second one snapped the key. Now I only have one key left. I used an impact wrench on the rest (recommended by McGard) and they came off. You stand a better chance of not breaking the key with an impact wrench. That is why all the tire guys like to use it to remove your locks. Of course, long term this is not a good thing. You can find some removal tips on the McGard website.
If I ever buy some exotic wheels and feel the need for locks again, I think I will always have 4 regular nuts and remove the locks whenever the car gets any kind of service and re-install them later. A hassle I don't really need.
Good Luck.
I'm thinking the same thing. I have a 99 Avalon XLS Platinum edition. It has the real fancy wheels that look just like a BMW. It didn't come with wheel locks so I bought my own. About two years ago I thought, " Why am I screwing with these things? Anyone in the business of stealing wheels will have just the right tool so who am I kidding?"
Old 08-02-09, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by artbuc
My old brain has finally let me down. I always IMMEDIATELY retorque lug nuts after getting new tires or alignment. Tonight I attempted to rotate the tires on my wife's RX. Been 7k since getting the new Alenzas and 4-wheel alignment check. I say check because no adjustments were necessary.

I'm not sure if I forgot to retorque or have so much faith in my alignment guy (he is meticulous) that I decided I didn't need to retorque. In either case, the rear lug nuts were frozen. I always start by removing the wheel lock first using the lock key and vehicle lug wrench. I have never had a problem since they are always torqued to 76 ft-lbs. NOT THIS TIME! On the first wheel, the wheel lock itself broke. On the second wheel, the wheel lock key broke.

I have McGard locks but don't have any paperwork on them. If I call Lexus with the VIN, do you think they can tell me which key to buy?

Also, any tips on how to remove the two broken locks? There may be enough left that I can break them with an impact wrench once I get a new key. If that doesn't work, I may have to buy a special wheel lock removal kit.

What a mess!

Edit: YIPEE! I found my McGard secret code and registration paperwork. Still have to figure out how to remove the broken locks though.
I agree with Mikey, tighten all the rest to about 40-50 lbs. more torque and then try to remove the locks. I have had McGuards on several vehicles and have never broken one yet, but I have always taken them OFF before I take it for tires (I do everything myself, I even have the equipment to do alignments at home), so that there is no chance of that happening. I can't stand to see an impact used on locks. I believe Sears has the special socket (reverse spiral) to take locks off without the key, but you have to use an impact. Could be wrong, but I thought they did.
Old 08-02-09, 07:57 AM
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No success. Got my Sears LUG OFF kit today. The wheel lock is so much harder than the fluted LUG OFF socket that it just rounded off the flutes without even scratching the wheel lock. I also tried heating the LUG OFF until I could see the metal turning red and then hammered it on the wheel lock, hoping to get a shrink-fit. No dice. I'm not sure what I am going to do now.

The flutes were already slightly worn when I tried the heat. Maybe if I tried the heat on a fresh LUG OUT it might work but I doubt it. Perhaps a higher quality tool (eg, Snap On) would he hard enough to bite into the wheel lock. I'll talk with McGard tomorrow.

Crap, I may have to cut the wheel away from the wheel lock. That will be an expensive repair!
Old 08-02-09, 09:24 AM
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The Internet is loaded with suggestions on how to do this. The most common one is to drive a 19mm socket (not a deep socket) onto the wheel lock. I did not want to do this! Didn't want to ruin a socket, didn't think it would work, yadda, yadda, yadda.

Well, I'm here to tell you that it worked like a charm. After removing the first lock, I was able to drive it out of the socket (the hardest part of the job) and reuse the socket on the second lock.

The Sears Lug Out WILL NOT work on McGard wheel locks. If anyone out there has experience which says otherwise, please let me know. The steel in the Lug Out is softer than, well you know what I'm trying to say.
Old 08-02-09, 05:51 PM
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Glad it worked out for you. Your approach was better than mine. I wasted money on buying 2 replacement keys from McGard only to use them to remove the locks to throw them away.
I guess I feel a little better about not having wheel locks now that I know a theif only needs a 19mm socket to remove them.
Old 08-02-09, 07:55 PM
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If you want another set of wheel locks and key - cheap - let me know. I removed them from my RX and no longer need them.
Old 08-03-09, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by artbuc
No success. Got my Sears LUG OFF kit today. The wheel lock is so much harder than the fluted LUG OFF socket that it just rounded off the flutes without even scratching the wheel lock. I also tried heating the LUG OFF until I could see the metal turning red and then hammered it on the wheel lock, hoping to get a shrink-fit. No dice. I'm not sure what I am going to do now.

The flutes were already slightly worn when I tried the heat. Maybe if I tried the heat on a fresh LUG OUT it might work but I doubt it. Perhaps a higher quality tool (eg, Snap On) would he hard enough to bite into the wheel lock. I'll talk with McGard tomorrow.

Crap, I may have to cut the wheel away from the wheel lock. That will be an expensive repair!
Glad it worked out for you Art. I think right after I returned that (Fail) Loser Lug Out to Sears, I'd stop by the the alignment shop to give a tail chewin' or kickin', one or the other. Did you buy the tires and have the alignment check both at your alignment guys shop? Somebody needs to be taken out behind the wood shed- that is insane on a lug that is supposed to be torqued to 76 lbs. That's a little more than finger tight! I am amazed that the Sears L.O. failed. Their tools should at least be up to that task (that is if it weren't torqued to 176 lbs) Shame on 'em.
Old 08-03-09, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JAB
If you want another set of wheel locks and key - cheap - let me know. I removed them from my RX and no longer need them.
No thanks on the wheel locks, but where did you buy your replacement lug nuts?

I'm assuming the dealers remove the factory installed lug nuts to install the wheel locks. I wonder what happens to those lug nuts? In hindsight, I wish I would have asked for mine when I bought the vehicle.
Old 08-03-09, 02:46 AM
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Roger, I know the Sears LUG OUT does work (or at least used to work) on some wheel locks. I discovered LUG OUT while reading another auto forum - I think it was either Mustang or Corvette but don't hold me to it. The guy was raving about LUG OUT. He showed pics of the LUG OUT package and pics of the wheel locks after they had been removed. The locks were badly deformed indicating pretty soft metal. OTOH, McGard locks are extremely hard and brittle. On my first frozen lock, a piece just chipped off the end. On the second frozen lock, a piece chipped off the end of the lock and the key broke as well. I will ask Sears for a refund because their warranty statement says complete satisfaction guaranteed. The LUG OUT package should say something like "will work on most wheel locks" or "will not work on hardened wheel locks".
Old 08-03-09, 05:41 AM
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I got replacement lug nuts at the Toyota dealer. Part #9094201058. Cost $5.94 each. List is $6.60. They are an exact match.
Old 08-03-09, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mikey00
I got replacement lug nuts at the Toyota dealer. Part #9094201058. Cost $5.94 each. List is $6.60. They are an exact match.
They want $10-12 per at the two Toyota delaers closest to me. I can get them for $1.66 on-line or $3.99 from Advanced Auto. My concerns about aftermarket are the finish quality (ie corrosion resistance) and weight.
Old 08-03-09, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by artbuc
They want $10-12 per at the two Toyota delaers closest to me. I can get them for $1.66 on-line or $3.99 from Advanced Auto. My concerns about aftermarket are the finish quality (ie corrosion resistance) and weight.
I did lok at them at one of the big auto chains (can't remember which one now) and what I did notice is that the washer could be removed. On the factory nuts it is a captive washer so no chance of losing it.
Old 08-03-09, 08:46 AM
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Most Toyota dealers have a universal Mcguard type set that will take off any of the security type lug nuts (my key was lost by the prior owner) They popped those puppies off in seconds, and didn't charge me a dime. it seems to me this woould work as the universal keys seem to bite in different areas where you have stripped it....


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