Originally Posted by thomas1
Try another battery, If you have a meter check the replacement, should read a solid 3 volts dc.
Thomas- check my post of today. 3.0V on that battery may work some things for a long time (below 3.0V) but it doesn't seem to when operating the transmitter. It's not so much voltage as amperage and the transmitter seems to take more amperage to transmit the signal than the 3.0V is able to deliver. Other applications that don't call for the amperage may work just fine at 3.0V. I have quite a few of the small LED flashlights that have 9 LED's and use 3 AAA's. When I first got them, when I had used one of them quite a bit I thought I had better check the voltage because it was getting a little dim. The batteries all checked 1.0V. Because an LED takes so little juice and are primarily a short distance usable light they were actually usable at 1.0V. My suggestion is if anyone is having trouble with the remote and the locks function normally with the inside button (first things first) replace the battery and if you still have problems such as
the one who started this thread does, 1st check the battery with a DVM and if it tests normal (3.3V) take it back and get another brand. I don't know about dry batteries but I have seen quite q few times over the years that a car battery will test full voltage
and be so low on cranking amperage (the ability to deliver that voltage) that it creates all kind of electrical problems. Therein lies the problem with checking voltage and thinking because the voltage is good that the battery is good. I have seen over the years enough odd battery situations to write a book about. I have in my garage 2 batteries (my wife's car and my DIL's car), 1 has full voltage and 1/2 the rated CCA's and the other has 12.2V (technically almost dead) and full CCA's!