cuda

I read owner's manual it shows recommended maintenance schedule to lubricate steering knuckle and propeller shaft each year, I don't know how to do it, anyone did by DIY ?

Lexmex

I am not sure exactly how Lexus does it. Only thing I can add is that about every 3 months I wash underneath the vehicle and after letting it dry, I spray suspension areas with WD40, incuding the propeller shaft, which you will only find on AWD vehicles. As far as any steering component. There is an area on the firewall behind the area where the stock airbox is that I also spray that is hooked part of the steering components.

Meetya

No documentation on how to lubricate those shafts. There are no boots on spider bearings and it is not clear which lubricant should be used. I think you need to use thick high-temperature grease, WD-40 is too thin.
"WD-40 should not be used as a general-purpose lubricant, as it dries very quickly and collects dust. This can result in serious damage to machinery and equipment designed for use with heavy oils when they are lubricated with lightweight WD-40."

PS: Did you know that WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement 40th attempt"?

Lexmex

WD-40 works just fine...I have never had any problem with it on mine nor any other vehicle. You do however have to spray a lot in there.

As far as general purpose lubricant, something like a synthetic grease also works well, unfortunately not of the major oil companies had the decency to sell the stuff down here.

I did notice rummaging around the rear differential the other day on the left/right sides there is some grease there, probably from the last time Lexus touched my vehicle.

salimshah

Lube and tuneup are terms which no longer apply ... the kind of phased out when the 8 track became extinct.

I grew up with a car where each moveable joint had a grease nipple. One would use grease gun to fill with new grease and dislodge the old out of the joint.

These days every thing is sealed and lubed for life. One has to throw away the joint now. Similarly there is no timing that needs to be set, points and gaps and dwell time are all computer controllled. Even the idle set screw is not touched.

Salim

Meetya

Wait, but spider joints are not sealed on most 4x4's.

salimshah

You are right, one should never say never .... even then vehicles with the nipple are exception. Grease gun in my tool box has never mated.

Salim

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it's amazing what people charge for a "Tune-Up" these days (which now comprises of changing the spark plugs - which only need changed at 100,000 miles). Also pretty much all "Oil Changes" are embellished with "lube chassis" and "X-point checkup" of which the former means nothing (as you state) and the latter is just a means of telling you need work done that frequently doesn't need to be done!

Or am I getting cynical in my old age?

pt1dyno

WD40 should be used as a penetrant only. I worked for several months in the laboratory that created, tests, and refines it. It is a magnet for particulates and degrades a vast array of surfaces and or surface coatings.

This is a great product when used for its engineered purpose. The engineered purpose is that of a penetrant.

Using it to "protect" a surface is foolish. To believe you know better than the testing laboratory is equally foolish. This stuff can be nasty!!

Again. WD40 is a great product. I own it and use it as a penetrant. I do not use it to protect surfaces or as a general lube. When I am finished using it on a surface I clean the surface and apply the proper product.

If you want a top of the line general lube, high temperature grease, or dry lube look into the Krytox line. I have not had laboratory experience at DuPont, however I have used the products as intended for nearly a decade. These lubricants are far and beyond thier nearest competitor. They last four and five times longer, have very low friction coefficients, can handle low and high (400 deg F) temperatures well, and never react with surfaces or coatings. Do not use this in an area where particlates may be an issue. They will stick to Krytox and become a grinding agent. This product is for lubrication and not to be used as a protectant. When a surface must be lubricated in the presence of particles, use the dry version of the Krytox.

For protecting surfaces and for protection only use a fireams barrel sealant. One example would be Outers Metal Seal. Clean the surface very carefully getting any crud out of all of the nooks and cranies, let the surface completely dry, spray with metal seal, wait a few minutes, repeat until coated to your liking. This stuff will last years without any need for reapplication in areas not bombarded by direct wheel spray (wheel wells). this will protect your surfaces from any road chemical with the exception of straight gasoline or diesel.