maxSteel

I use one of those one-way valve bleeder tools, seems to work o.k.
Like this: http://amzn.com/B0051SERD2

fastnoypi

those work fine but really not worth the cost of what a length of 1/4" ID clear tubing, a zip tie and a sports drink bottle can do . You just need to keep the tube in an upward arc in relation to the bottle and the tube submerged in fluid in the catch bottle.


This guy made a good video to explain how to use it. I add a piece of hanger wire at the neck of the bottle so i can hang it off a coil spring to avoid tipping.

salimshah

Just clarifying my earlier statements ..

If a person has NEVER worked on bleeding the brakes ever, counting on 1 person kit to help you is not recommended by me.

Does not mean it cant be done, but for first time DIYer,,,, its a bad move. Specially if it not an emergency.

Salim

fastnoypi

Its always helpful to have an experienced person around to supervise/observe and double check the work of someone that has never bled brakes before.

There is little difference between a 2 person method vs the one person method of bleeding your brakes. The principles you have to stick with are the same. Keep the master cylinder full of fluid at all times, and prevent air and dirty fluid to get sucked back into the system.

Here is a helpful video that explains both methods. Forward to 6:30 for explanation of the one person method
.

hsmac

haha i watched that video last night along with several other ones. i actually just asked this question on the other thread:

"very simple directions thanks for the post. i know there are several methods to bleed the fluid, and my question is why would anyone use the two person method if you can do it by yourself? if it is not necessary to open and close the bleeder screw with each pump (like the directions for two person instruct), why are they doing so? is there greater risk of air getting into the lines with this one person method?

also, if air does get into the lines, is it not a big deal and just needs to be bled out for a few seconds, or is it more of a catastrophic problem that needs to be handled by shop technicians? if we are bleeding and no longer see bubbles is it possible there are more bubbles to come that we just don't see? from what i've researched it seems like air getting into the MC may be catastrophic while air getting in from the screw is not (which is why you can even remove the screw itself if it needs to be replaced)."

...so again why does the two person method require intermittent opening/closing of the bleeder screw?

hsmac

thanks, i was considering getting one of those vacuums. maybe i will try the gravity method as it appears to be the method with the least risk.

i called around today and was shocked to hear it would only cost ~$120 to change the pads labor only. i was expecting to hear $400-500 and may have just paid a mechanic to do the job. now that i've spent so much time learning i will probably try myself plus i can do them in the future. i originally thought bleeding and replacing the pads came hand in hand but apparently not. the pads seem very straightforward so maybe i'll just pay someone to flush the fluid if there's too much risk.

fastnoypi

A situation i've seen is people bleeding the brake fluid into an empty catch bottle with the other end of the bottle not submerged. Upon releasing the brake, it may cause vacuum effect in some systems, if the bleeder screw is open, it can suck in air. If the second person keeps an upward arc in the tubing, they essentially do not need to be consistently opening/closing the bleeder screw but close it when they feel the fluid is sufficiently clear and no air bubbles being expelled.

salimshah

Labor to change pads is about 1.5hr
Brake job typically involved turning the rotors and potentially bleeding and then it gets to $4/5xx
shops like to turn rotors as they dont want unhappy customers.

Salim

artbuc

You will be unhappy with the performance of a $120 pad slap.

artbuc

+1. Anytime you release the brake pedal with an open bleeder you are asking for trouble.

hsmac

they all said they would clean all the brake parts. but of course rotor work would cost extra.

artbuc

I assume cleaning will be a quick spray of Brakleen. Are they going to remove, clean and re-lube the caliper slide pins? This is the most critical part of the job. What kind of lube will they use? What pads are they going to use?

hsmac

it sounded like they were but i''m sure each place had a different idea of what a cleaning entailed. it doesn't take that long to clean and lube the pins right so it doesn't seem unfathomable. i don't know about lube but pads were up to me or i could bring my own for them to install.

what do you guys think about pads? i saw some beck/arnley, axxis and ATE pads on closeout and want to try them, but obviously saving $40 or so isn't worth it if they cause problems or don't last as long. i believe all are ceramic and wonder if them being discontinued is a bad sign.

artbuc

Toyota OEM or Akebono ProAct. Do your research and you will find nothing but rave reviews for Akebono. Stay away from B/A as they are nothing but re-boxers. You may get OEM and you may get crap.

If you have a stuck pin, I don't they will take the time to extract it and do the job right. Bottom line - if you want it done right, do it yourself.

fastnoypi

i've had the axxis pads on other cars, its a good pad with decent bite but dusty. +1 on Toyota OEM or Akebono ProAct. Both have a ceramic formula and low dust for good everyday driving.