RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

Brake Pads DIY

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Old 12-14-15, 05:25 PM
  #76  
MarkG2000
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I have 270k....yr 2000 rx300
Need Front rotors....brake pads...and shocks. Shocks I have to go with 4 but if they're pricey..just 2 front.
Don't want high stuff...mid range is ok..but not necessary at this point in the life of the car. My driver seat
is TRASHED...so I also could go with another..
With the shocks....should I also go with the items that should be changed! If so....which
I appreciate all the help from you guys..links..whatever u can provide will be great.
Old 12-14-15, 06:17 PM
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maxSteel
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I just did my struts. There is a DIY on here for it.
My car is 1999 AWD, parts may not be same for FWD

I used KYB-GR2 struts from RockAuto.
KYB 334261, 334262, 334263, 334264 $84/each rear. $92/each front
Used polyvinyl hose from Home Depot for lower mount replacement, about $10

From Amazon:
KYB-SM5180 strut front mount/bearing $55 each
KYB SM5175 rear mount + boot, $44 each
Messed up and did not order upper rubber bushing/boot for front. Had to reuse old ones.

Also replaced all 4 strut bar links because it looked to me like they were not going to come off the struts cleanly.
From RockAuto
fronts MOOG K90311 & K90312 $41/each
rear MOOG K90714 $22/each

So all in about $700 for the parts.

Borrowed the spring compressor from AdvanceAuto.
Old 12-14-15, 10:30 PM
  #78  
hsmac
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Originally Posted by artbuc
Make sure you service (clean & lube) caliper slide pins and replace brake fluid if it is more than 2-3 years old. Don't just do a "pad slap". You will not be happy with the results.
any recommendations for the cleaner and lubricant? sounds like people recommend silicone lube. how important is changing fluid and bleeding the lines?
Old 12-14-15, 10:34 PM
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hsmac
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Originally Posted by Lexmex
I saw rock auto had a good deal on some brembo front rotors for like $12 bucks each yesterday. They do get some good deals and I regularly look at them, amazon, ebay and a few other places, it's all good competition.
isn't that like how much it would cost to turn them?
Old 12-15-15, 12:19 AM
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artbuc
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Originally Posted by hsmac
any recommendations for the cleaner and lubricant? sounds like people recommend silicone lube. how important is changing fluid and bleeding the lines?
I get best results using SilGlyde and many others do too. Changing brake fluid every 3 years is very important if you plan on keeping the car many years and want long trouble free service from your calipers. Depending on the condition, you can just wipe away old grease with a clean rag. If the old grease is dry, wet the rag with any solvent. Just make sure the solvent is gone before you apply grease. You may have to burp the boots to reassemble.
Old 12-15-15, 05:02 AM
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fastnoypi
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Originally Posted by hsmac
any recommendations for the cleaner and lubricant? sounds like people recommend silicone lube. how important is changing fluid and bleeding the lines?
I use generic non-chlorinated brake cleaner and 1 SilGlyde packet per each caliper. I find the packets on the counter at Autozone and Advance Auto.

Changing fluid at recommended intervals is important to prevent moisture buildup in the lines that cause a spongy pedal feel. It also a preventative measure to avoid rusted seized caliper pistons.
Old 12-15-15, 05:05 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by fastnoypi
I use generic non-chlorinated brake cleaner and 1 SilGlyde packet per each caliper. I find the packets on the counter at Autozone and Advance Auto.

Changing fluid at recommended intervals is important to prevent moisture buildup in the lines that cause a spongy pedal feel. It also a preventative measure to avoid rusted seized caliper pistons.
Originally Posted by artbuc
I get best results using SilGlyde and many others do too. Changing brake fluid every 3 years is very important if you plan on keeping the car many years and want long trouble free service from your calipers. Depending on the condition, you can just wipe away old grease with a clean rag. If the old grease is dry, wet the rag with any solvent. Just make sure the solvent is gone before you apply grease. You may have to burp the boots to reassemble.
awesome after some research i was planning on getting that exact one too!
Old 12-15-15, 05:14 PM
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another noob question here...

i bought some 2 ton jack stands the other week and not only until now did i realize how dangerous it can be to operate on a vehicle supported by them. so, are the specs of these jack stands enough for the rx300? if i change one wheel at a time, will i only need to support that one section that has the wheel off while the other 3 sections are still resting on the wheels? i'm thinking of buying 2 more stands and putting them under for extra protection.

any advice along the lines of: know this, otherwise we won't see you on these forums anymore, would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
Old 12-15-15, 05:42 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by hsmac
another noob question here...

i bought some 2 ton jack stands the other week and not only until now did i realize how dangerous it can be to operate on a vehicle supported by them. so, are the specs of these jack stands enough for the rx300? if i change one wheel at a time, will i only need to support that one section that has the wheel off while the other 3 sections are still resting on the wheels? i'm thinking of buying 2 more stands and putting them under for extra protection.

any advice along the lines of: know this, otherwise we won't see you on these forums anymore, would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
There seems to be some misinformation ... 2 ton Jack stand should work .. provided it is set on firm ground and the vehicle is some what horizontal. If you use proper locking mechanism and support the body of RX as specified in service manual, then it is safe to crawl under it.

The jack provided by Lexus is not safe to lift and work under the vehicle [3-4" in one dimension does not provide enough base]. It is ok to use to change a wheel.

If you share with us the objective of lifting the RX we can offer suggestions.

We want you to be safe.

Salim
Old 12-15-15, 06:04 PM
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hsmac
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hi salim, thanks for your response once again.

the objective is to change the brake pads. do i need to lift the entire vehicle or is just the section i'm working on enough? i was going to use the lexus jack to put the stands underneath but not as a replacement for the stands.
Old 12-15-15, 07:31 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by hsmac
hi salim, thanks for your response once again.

the objective is to change the brake pads. do i need to lift the entire vehicle or is just the section i'm working on enough? i was going to use the lexus jack to put the stands underneath but not as a replacement for the stands.
When you break the task down, you need to remove one wheel at a time to work on the pads. So lift one corner at a time. I would leave other 3 on the ground and avoid getting under the vehicle (there is no need to crawl under).

Lift the corner with the jack. Stick a jack stand under the cross member. Dont be tempted to support the suspension with the jack stand. [weight of the vehicle should not come down through the spring to the support]. Lower the jack, but leave it in place as a secondary support.

ps: If you have not worked on vehicles please solicit help from a friend.

Salim

Last edited by salimshah; 12-15-15 at 07:36 PM.
Old 12-16-15, 05:54 PM
  #87  
hsmac
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Originally Posted by salimshah
When you break the task down, you need to remove one wheel at a time to work on the pads. So lift one corner at a time. I would leave other 3 on the ground and avoid getting under the vehicle (there is no need to crawl under).

Lift the corner with the jack. Stick a jack stand under the cross member. Dont be tempted to support the suspension with the jack stand. [weight of the vehicle should not come down through the spring to the support]. Lower the jack, but leave it in place as a secondary support.

ps: If you have not worked on vehicles please solicit help from a friend.

Salim
thanks so much!

i am also thinking of flushing the brake fluid since it hasn't been done in a long, long time. i've read the DIY and other instructions as well, but hope someone could shed some light on the difficulty of the job. what are the ways to check if the pads and fluid have been done precisely? if i take the car for a test drive, will any imperfections be exposed easily? will a minor mishap say, increase the brake time by a second or two or would the consequences be much more severe and unpredictable? from what most people are saying, changing pads and doing a flush aren't a big deal but of course saving a few hundred bucks isn't worth injury or anyone's life.
Old 12-16-15, 06:30 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by hsmac
thanks so much!

i am also thinking of flushing the brake fluid since it hasn't been done in a long, long time. i've read the DIY and other instructions as well, but hope someone could shed some light on the difficulty of the job. what are the ways to check if the pads and fluid have been done precisely? if i take the car for a test drive, will any imperfections be exposed easily? will a minor mishap say, increase the brake time by a second or two or would the consequences be much more severe and unpredictable? from what most people are saying, changing pads and doing a flush aren't a big deal but of course saving a few hundred bucks isn't worth injury or anyone's life.
Changing pads and bleeding brakes are not difficult BUT if done wrong, you may risk serious injury. Go over the DIY posts and watch the many styles of brake bleeding on youtube. Find someone that has experience to watch you and go over your work till you are confident to do it unassisted. Ensure no air gets in the master cylinder, don't over torque brake bleeders, retorque all fasteners and lugs..take your time, you should be fine.
Old 12-16-15, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hsmac
thanks so much!

i am also thinking of flushing the brake fluid since it hasn't been done in a long, long time. i've read the DIY and other instructions as well, but hope someone could shed some light on the difficulty of the job. what are the ways to check if the pads and fluid have been done precisely? if i take the car for a test drive, will any imperfections be exposed easily? will a minor mishap say, increase the brake time by a second or two or would the consequences be much more severe and unpredictable? from what most people are saying, changing pads and doing a flush aren't a big deal but of course saving a few hundred bucks isn't worth injury or anyone's life.
Working brakes are the most important thing for safety, followed by steering (to guide yourself away from a collision or choosing the best object to take away the energy). You, yourself are the best judge as to what are the limits of your abilities. Changing pads is relatively easy, as long as you half empty (and not more) the master cylinder and then push back the pistons.Then keep the master cylinder 3/4 full as you apply the brakes after the job. Skill is needed in visually looking for any component damage. When it comes to bleeding you need assistance. If you introduce air in the system then you need experience. Tip: Put a 2" obstruction underneath the brake pedal if you need to bleed [this will prevent damage to piston seals in the master cylinder]

Testing: Dont even think about driving without testing. Start the RX and let it idle in Park. Press the brake pedal and keep pushing. If it sinks then you have a problem. Note right after an install when the pistons have been pushed in, the brake pedal may have a longer travel but after the 2 or 3 application of brake the pedal should not sink. [no rapid pumping that you would do in brake failure]. Then do a slow moving brake test with reverse and drive. Once you are assured then go on the road.

Salim
Old 12-17-15, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by salimshah
When it comes to bleeding you need assistance. If you introduce air in the system then you need experience. Tip: Put a 2" obstruction underneath the brake pedal if you need to bleed [this will prevent damage to piston seals in the master cylinder]



Salim
Agreed if you use the 2 person method which has a higher occurrence of blowing out seals if done wrong, but as you outlined, putting an obstruction to prevent the brake pedal moving to the floor when pumping the brakes is good preventative measure.

There are several ways of one person brake bleeding using the gravity method, pressure method (motive pressure bleeding), brake pedal assist method, and vacuum pump method. Keeping the brake bleeder hose in an upward arc in relation to the brake bleeder catch bottle is important to avoid air from re-entering the brake system.


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