Brake Pads DIY
12-14-15, 05:25 PM
#76
I have 270k....yr 2000 rx300
Need Front rotors....brake pads...and shocks. Shocks I have to go with 4 but if they're pricey..just 2 front.
Don't want high stuff...mid range is ok..but not necessary at this point in the life of the car. My driver seat
is TRASHED...so I also could go with another..
With the shocks....should I also go with the items that should be changed! If so....which
I appreciate all the help from you guys..links..whatever u can provide will be great.
Need Front rotors....brake pads...and shocks. Shocks I have to go with 4 but if they're pricey..just 2 front.
Don't want high stuff...mid range is ok..but not necessary at this point in the life of the car. My driver seat
is TRASHED...so I also could go with another..
With the shocks....should I also go with the items that should be changed! If so....which
I appreciate all the help from you guys..links..whatever u can provide will be great.
12-14-15, 06:17 PM
#77
I just did my struts. There is a DIY on here for it.
My car is 1999 AWD, parts may not be same for FWD
I used KYB-GR2 struts from RockAuto.
KYB 334261, 334262, 334263, 334264 $84/each rear. $92/each front
Used polyvinyl hose from Home Depot for lower mount replacement, about $10
From Amazon:
KYB-SM5180 strut front mount/bearing $55 each
KYB SM5175 rear mount + boot, $44 each
Messed up and did not order upper rubber bushing/boot for front. Had to reuse old ones.
Also replaced all 4 strut bar links because it looked to me like they were not going to come off the struts cleanly.
From RockAuto
fronts MOOG K90311 & K90312 $41/each
rear MOOG K90714 $22/each
So all in about $700 for the parts.
Borrowed the spring compressor from AdvanceAuto.
My car is 1999 AWD, parts may not be same for FWD
I used KYB-GR2 struts from RockAuto.
KYB 334261, 334262, 334263, 334264 $84/each rear. $92/each front
Used polyvinyl hose from Home Depot for lower mount replacement, about $10
From Amazon:
KYB-SM5180 strut front mount/bearing $55 each
KYB SM5175 rear mount + boot, $44 each
Messed up and did not order upper rubber bushing/boot for front. Had to reuse old ones.
Also replaced all 4 strut bar links because it looked to me like they were not going to come off the struts cleanly.
From RockAuto
fronts MOOG K90311 & K90312 $41/each
rear MOOG K90714 $22/each
So all in about $700 for the parts.
Borrowed the spring compressor from AdvanceAuto.
12-14-15, 10:30 PM
#78
any recommendations for the cleaner and lubricant? sounds like people recommend silicone lube. how important is changing fluid and bleeding the lines?
12-14-15, 10:34 PM
#79
12-15-15, 12:19 AM
#80
I get best results using SilGlyde and many others do too. Changing brake fluid every 3 years is very important if you plan on keeping the car many years and want long trouble free service from your calipers. Depending on the condition, you can just wipe away old grease with a clean rag. If the old grease is dry, wet the rag with any solvent. Just make sure the solvent is gone before you apply grease. You may have to burp the boots to reassemble.
12-15-15, 05:02 AM
#81
Changing fluid at recommended intervals is important to prevent moisture buildup in the lines that cause a spongy pedal feel. It also a preventative measure to avoid rusted seized caliper pistons.
12-15-15, 05:05 PM
#82
I use generic non-chlorinated brake cleaner and 1 SilGlyde packet per each caliper. I find the packets on the counter at Autozone and Advance Auto.
Changing fluid at recommended intervals is important to prevent moisture buildup in the lines that cause a spongy pedal feel. It also a preventative measure to avoid rusted seized caliper pistons.
Changing fluid at recommended intervals is important to prevent moisture buildup in the lines that cause a spongy pedal feel. It also a preventative measure to avoid rusted seized caliper pistons.
I get best results using SilGlyde and many others do too. Changing brake fluid every 3 years is very important if you plan on keeping the car many years and want long trouble free service from your calipers. Depending on the condition, you can just wipe away old grease with a clean rag. If the old grease is dry, wet the rag with any solvent. Just make sure the solvent is gone before you apply grease. You may have to burp the boots to reassemble.
12-15-15, 05:14 PM
#83
another noob question here...
i bought some 2 ton jack stands the other week and not only until now did i realize how dangerous it can be to operate on a vehicle supported by them. so, are the specs of these jack stands enough for the rx300? if i change one wheel at a time, will i only need to support that one section that has the wheel off while the other 3 sections are still resting on the wheels? i'm thinking of buying 2 more stands and putting them under for extra protection.
any advice along the lines of: know this, otherwise we won't see you on these forums anymore, would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
i bought some 2 ton jack stands the other week and not only until now did i realize how dangerous it can be to operate on a vehicle supported by them. so, are the specs of these jack stands enough for the rx300? if i change one wheel at a time, will i only need to support that one section that has the wheel off while the other 3 sections are still resting on the wheels? i'm thinking of buying 2 more stands and putting them under for extra protection.
any advice along the lines of: know this, otherwise we won't see you on these forums anymore, would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
12-15-15, 05:42 PM
#84
Moderator
another noob question here...
i bought some 2 ton jack stands the other week and not only until now did i realize how dangerous it can be to operate on a vehicle supported by them. so, are the specs of these jack stands enough for the rx300? if i change one wheel at a time, will i only need to support that one section that has the wheel off while the other 3 sections are still resting on the wheels? i'm thinking of buying 2 more stands and putting them under for extra protection.
any advice along the lines of: know this, otherwise we won't see you on these forums anymore, would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
i bought some 2 ton jack stands the other week and not only until now did i realize how dangerous it can be to operate on a vehicle supported by them. so, are the specs of these jack stands enough for the rx300? if i change one wheel at a time, will i only need to support that one section that has the wheel off while the other 3 sections are still resting on the wheels? i'm thinking of buying 2 more stands and putting them under for extra protection.
any advice along the lines of: know this, otherwise we won't see you on these forums anymore, would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
The jack provided by Lexus is not safe to lift and work under the vehicle [3-4" in one dimension does not provide enough base]. It is ok to use to change a wheel.
If you share with us the objective of lifting the RX we can offer suggestions.
We want you to be safe.
Salim
12-15-15, 06:04 PM
#85
hi salim, thanks for your response once again.
the objective is to change the brake pads. do i need to lift the entire vehicle or is just the section i'm working on enough? i was going to use the lexus jack to put the stands underneath but not as a replacement for the stands.
the objective is to change the brake pads. do i need to lift the entire vehicle or is just the section i'm working on enough? i was going to use the lexus jack to put the stands underneath but not as a replacement for the stands.
12-15-15, 07:31 PM
#86
Moderator
hi salim, thanks for your response once again.
the objective is to change the brake pads. do i need to lift the entire vehicle or is just the section i'm working on enough? i was going to use the lexus jack to put the stands underneath but not as a replacement for the stands.
the objective is to change the brake pads. do i need to lift the entire vehicle or is just the section i'm working on enough? i was going to use the lexus jack to put the stands underneath but not as a replacement for the stands.
Lift the corner with the jack. Stick a jack stand under the cross member. Dont be tempted to support the suspension with the jack stand. [weight of the vehicle should not come down through the spring to the support]. Lower the jack, but leave it in place as a secondary support.
ps: If you have not worked on vehicles please solicit help from a friend.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 12-15-15 at 07:36 PM.
12-16-15, 05:54 PM
#87
When you break the task down, you need to remove one wheel at a time to work on the pads. So lift one corner at a time. I would leave other 3 on the ground and avoid getting under the vehicle (there is no need to crawl under).
Lift the corner with the jack. Stick a jack stand under the cross member. Dont be tempted to support the suspension with the jack stand. [weight of the vehicle should not come down through the spring to the support]. Lower the jack, but leave it in place as a secondary support.
ps: If you have not worked on vehicles please solicit help from a friend.
Salim
Lift the corner with the jack. Stick a jack stand under the cross member. Dont be tempted to support the suspension with the jack stand. [weight of the vehicle should not come down through the spring to the support]. Lower the jack, but leave it in place as a secondary support.
ps: If you have not worked on vehicles please solicit help from a friend.
Salim
i am also thinking of flushing the brake fluid since it hasn't been done in a long, long time. i've read the DIY and other instructions as well, but hope someone could shed some light on the difficulty of the job. what are the ways to check if the pads and fluid have been done precisely? if i take the car for a test drive, will any imperfections be exposed easily? will a minor mishap say, increase the brake time by a second or two or would the consequences be much more severe and unpredictable? from what most people are saying, changing pads and doing a flush aren't a big deal but of course saving a few hundred bucks isn't worth injury or anyone's life.
12-16-15, 06:30 PM
#88
thanks so much!
i am also thinking of flushing the brake fluid since it hasn't been done in a long, long time. i've read the DIY and other instructions as well, but hope someone could shed some light on the difficulty of the job. what are the ways to check if the pads and fluid have been done precisely? if i take the car for a test drive, will any imperfections be exposed easily? will a minor mishap say, increase the brake time by a second or two or would the consequences be much more severe and unpredictable? from what most people are saying, changing pads and doing a flush aren't a big deal but of course saving a few hundred bucks isn't worth injury or anyone's life.
i am also thinking of flushing the brake fluid since it hasn't been done in a long, long time. i've read the DIY and other instructions as well, but hope someone could shed some light on the difficulty of the job. what are the ways to check if the pads and fluid have been done precisely? if i take the car for a test drive, will any imperfections be exposed easily? will a minor mishap say, increase the brake time by a second or two or would the consequences be much more severe and unpredictable? from what most people are saying, changing pads and doing a flush aren't a big deal but of course saving a few hundred bucks isn't worth injury or anyone's life.
12-16-15, 08:36 PM
#89
Moderator
thanks so much!
i am also thinking of flushing the brake fluid since it hasn't been done in a long, long time. i've read the DIY and other instructions as well, but hope someone could shed some light on the difficulty of the job. what are the ways to check if the pads and fluid have been done precisely? if i take the car for a test drive, will any imperfections be exposed easily? will a minor mishap say, increase the brake time by a second or two or would the consequences be much more severe and unpredictable? from what most people are saying, changing pads and doing a flush aren't a big deal but of course saving a few hundred bucks isn't worth injury or anyone's life.
i am also thinking of flushing the brake fluid since it hasn't been done in a long, long time. i've read the DIY and other instructions as well, but hope someone could shed some light on the difficulty of the job. what are the ways to check if the pads and fluid have been done precisely? if i take the car for a test drive, will any imperfections be exposed easily? will a minor mishap say, increase the brake time by a second or two or would the consequences be much more severe and unpredictable? from what most people are saying, changing pads and doing a flush aren't a big deal but of course saving a few hundred bucks isn't worth injury or anyone's life.
Testing: Dont even think about driving without testing. Start the RX and let it idle in Park. Press the brake pedal and keep pushing. If it sinks then you have a problem. Note right after an install when the pistons have been pushed in, the brake pedal may have a longer travel but after the 2 or 3 application of brake the pedal should not sink. [no rapid pumping that you would do in brake failure]. Then do a slow moving brake test with reverse and drive. Once you are assured then go on the road.
Salim
12-17-15, 06:57 AM
#90
There are several ways of one person brake bleeding using the gravity method, pressure method (motive pressure bleeding), brake pedal assist method, and vacuum pump method. Keeping the brake bleeder hose in an upward arc in relation to the brake bleeder catch bottle is important to avoid air from re-entering the brake system.