That Magical Button that says Power and Snow
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
That Magical Button that says Power and Snow
Can anyone explain, in detail, what the two different settings actually do?
I know that when I am in power mode, the car downshifts faster, but that seems like it...I mean, I would say that I push my RX like a sportscar...haha
And I havent really used snow yet, but I'm going to try it tomorrow...
So what exactly do those two settings really do to my RX?
...thanks
-adam
I know that when I am in power mode, the car downshifts faster, but that seems like it...I mean, I would say that I push my RX like a sportscar...haha
And I havent really used snow yet, but I'm going to try it tomorrow...
So what exactly do those two settings really do to my RX?
...thanks
-adam
#4
Super Moderator
This only applies to 1999-2000 vehicles.
The manual says it pretty cleanly: In the "Snow" position, the transmission system shifts up from the second gear. On another page it mentions, for starting your vehicle in sand, mud, ice or snow use the "Snow" position.
For more powerful acceleration and sporty driving, use the "Power" position. In the POWER position, the "ECT PWR" light in the instrument cluster is on and the transmission is shifted up at higher vehicle speeds and shifted down more reponsively than in the NORMAL position.
I hardly ever use SNOW except in some really rainy conditions and on a rise or when going down hill and I feel I can hold the road better.
With PWR, that button goes on along with overdrive off on those nice little 1/4 mile runs. I ran a lot of tests and in the end, times were always better that way.
Contrary to popular belief, power braking does not work on the track with an RX300. I must have done that a 100 times and no benefit except maybe a better reaction time (like it need improving ).
Thus if you go to the track or want to beat fellow SUVs off the light, rev it slightly to 1,000 to 1,200 RPM (depends on the weather) and floor it at the light.
The manual says it pretty cleanly: In the "Snow" position, the transmission system shifts up from the second gear. On another page it mentions, for starting your vehicle in sand, mud, ice or snow use the "Snow" position.
For more powerful acceleration and sporty driving, use the "Power" position. In the POWER position, the "ECT PWR" light in the instrument cluster is on and the transmission is shifted up at higher vehicle speeds and shifted down more reponsively than in the NORMAL position.
I hardly ever use SNOW except in some really rainy conditions and on a rise or when going down hill and I feel I can hold the road better.
With PWR, that button goes on along with overdrive off on those nice little 1/4 mile runs. I ran a lot of tests and in the end, times were always better that way.
Contrary to popular belief, power braking does not work on the track with an RX300. I must have done that a 100 times and no benefit except maybe a better reaction time (like it need improving ).
Thus if you go to the track or want to beat fellow SUVs off the light, rev it slightly to 1,000 to 1,200 RPM (depends on the weather) and floor it at the light.
#5
can you explain what "snow" mode does do on other years and models of vehicles?
#6
Super Moderator
With the 01-03, Snow does the same thing, but then you have the added VSC (Vehicle Stability Control), which I don't like for engine performance reasons, I prefer to manually control this as much as possible.
The 99-00 were the only ones that had SNOW AND PWR, afterwards you will just find a SNOW button.
For performance, I prefer the 99 to 00, but the creature comforts are definitely found in the later models and especially in Coach/Silversport editions.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Hey Lexmex,
that whole power braking thing...what?
like hold the brake down and gas too...rev up to 1k or 1500 and then take foot off brake? I do that sometimes, doesnt really do much, hahah..but i'm going to try it today with the power button on and overdrive off.
that whole power braking thing...what?
like hold the brake down and gas too...rev up to 1k or 1500 and then take foot off brake? I do that sometimes, doesnt really do much, hahah..but i'm going to try it today with the power button on and overdrive off.
#9
Super Moderator
What I do is feet on accelerator and brake, and as the staging lights are just about to come on. I move the accelerator up to the 1 to 1,200 RPM (it varies and sometimes in hot weather I have to put it up a little more). With cold weather, 1,000 RPM is fine.
The idea there is to allow existing cool air in my intake system to get used upon my launch, not while I am sitting there waiting for green and using it up under traditional power braking.
Tell you what, I go to the track tonight, and on one of my late runs (after I try to bust my 17.931 record, god willing along with the aztec gods of weather), I will try to demonstrate via video by focusing the camera in a way I think I can get a good shot of the lights and of the RPM needle.
#10
Super Moderator
And I will try to remember to turn my lights on for that run. Ever since I cut the DRLs off, I keep hearing the theme from Dr. Who everytime I fly down that track without lights. WAWOOWOO
#11
Moderator
Power launch
Some manufacturer's would void warranty (event is recorded in memory) as it is considered an abuse. I dont hink Lexus records this though.
Salim
Some manufacturer's would void warranty (event is recorded in memory) as it is considered an abuse. I dont hink Lexus records this though.
Salim
#12
Super Moderator
I have actually seen 3 people powerbrake automatics at my track and the tranny died as they attempted to launch.
Don't need to do it and it definitely won't help me based on my experience.
#13
Out of Warranty
Torque braking was an old technique used by professional dragsters and teenagers racing Dad's Oldsmobile alike. Before the advent of Lenco (manumatic) shifters and really "smart" multiple-gear transmissions, it was a method used to pump up the torque converter to stall, while holding the brakes.
Back then – as recently as the early 90’s torque converters were pretty loose – they had to be to use the old three – speed automatics that got most of their off-the-line power from those whirling paddles that made what we would consider today a second-gear launch possible. Today’s 4, 5, 6 and more-speed trannys don’t need that slop to get off the line, they have a gear for it and actually work better without all the abuse.
Old body-on-frame cars with real torquemonsters under the hood routinely tore up u-joints, transmissions, and even motor mounts as their frames actually twisted and racked under that terrific torque load caused by the irresistible force meeting the immovable opject. Dad might get his car back needing some serious transmission service. . .
If you anticipated that last yellow properly and lifted your left foot, you would cut the eye just as the Christmas tree went green and you got a tremendous hole shot on your opponent. If not, the results were similarly dramatic, just more expensive . . . . “Hello, Aamco? Something’s wrong with my transmission . . . .”
Back then – as recently as the early 90’s torque converters were pretty loose – they had to be to use the old three – speed automatics that got most of their off-the-line power from those whirling paddles that made what we would consider today a second-gear launch possible. Today’s 4, 5, 6 and more-speed trannys don’t need that slop to get off the line, they have a gear for it and actually work better without all the abuse.
Old body-on-frame cars with real torquemonsters under the hood routinely tore up u-joints, transmissions, and even motor mounts as their frames actually twisted and racked under that terrific torque load caused by the irresistible force meeting the immovable opject. Dad might get his car back needing some serious transmission service. . .
If you anticipated that last yellow properly and lifted your left foot, you would cut the eye just as the Christmas tree went green and you got a tremendous hole shot on your opponent. If not, the results were similarly dramatic, just more expensive . . . . “Hello, Aamco? Something’s wrong with my transmission . . . .”
#14
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Lex,
I tried that today as I was driving around...wish I wouldve read this before. That's F*ing awesommmme. I guess I wont do it too much because I need a tranny to run my vehicle, haha.
But I do have a question...I turned of OD and turned PWR on...is driving like that for some fun a big strain on the tranny...I thought it was so awesome how i was doing like 60 in no time and then let of the gas and i could hear my exhaust tip slowly going down and i heard it crackle a few times...
Is that a big strain?
I dunno...hm...
I tried that today as I was driving around...wish I wouldve read this before. That's F*ing awesommmme. I guess I wont do it too much because I need a tranny to run my vehicle, haha.
But I do have a question...I turned of OD and turned PWR on...is driving like that for some fun a big strain on the tranny...I thought it was so awesome how i was doing like 60 in no time and then let of the gas and i could hear my exhaust tip slowly going down and i heard it crackle a few times...
Is that a big strain?
I dunno...hm...
#15
Super Moderator
Torque braking was an old technique used by professional dragsters and teenagers racing Dad's Oldsmobile alike. Before the advent of Lenco (manumatic) shifters and really "smart" multiple-gear transmissions, it was a method used to pump up the torque converter to stall, while holding the brakes.
Back then – as recently as the early 90’s torque converters were pretty loose – they had to be to use the old three – speed automatics that got most of their off-the-line power from those whirling paddles that made what we would consider today a second-gear launch possible. Today’s 4, 5, 6 and more-speed trannys don’t need that slop to get off the line, they have a gear for it and actually work better without all the abuse.
Old body-on-frame cars with real torquemonsters under the hood routinely tore up u-joints, transmissions, and even motor mounts as their frames actually twisted and racked under that terrific torque load caused by the irresistible force meeting the immovable opject. Dad might get his car back needing some serious transmission service. . .
If you anticipated that last yellow properly and lifted your left foot, you would cut the eye just as the Christmas tree went green and you got a tremendous hole shot on your opponent. If not, the results were similarly dramatic, just more expensive . . . . “Hello, Aamco? Something’s wrong with my transmission . . . .”
Back then – as recently as the early 90’s torque converters were pretty loose – they had to be to use the old three – speed automatics that got most of their off-the-line power from those whirling paddles that made what we would consider today a second-gear launch possible. Today’s 4, 5, 6 and more-speed trannys don’t need that slop to get off the line, they have a gear for it and actually work better without all the abuse.
Old body-on-frame cars with real torquemonsters under the hood routinely tore up u-joints, transmissions, and even motor mounts as their frames actually twisted and racked under that terrific torque load caused by the irresistible force meeting the immovable opject. Dad might get his car back needing some serious transmission service. . .
If you anticipated that last yellow properly and lifted your left foot, you would cut the eye just as the Christmas tree went green and you got a tremendous hole shot on your opponent. If not, the results were similarly dramatic, just more expensive . . . . “Hello, Aamco? Something’s wrong with my transmission . . . .”
Last edited by Lexmex; 11-03-06 at 01:02 PM.