Photo DIY: RX300 AWD Transmission Fluid, Pan, Filter Change
07-26-11, 10:29 AM
#196
I have an "updated" new replacement transmission (2004) from Lexus that replaced the original faulty unit under warrantee. My car is an early '99 2WD, 131,000 miles, the new tranny has 62,000 miles, and fluid condition has never had burned yuk smell or dark metallic stuff like the original did. This new one doesn't exhibit any problems at all, but just the same I perform some sort of fluid change every year.
Last year I had a trusted tranny mech. change the fluid (with T-IV), the filter (new tranny never had a screen) and gasket. The filter and magnets have been perfectly clean at each inspection (he showed the pan to me), so this year, without dropping the pan or changing the filter, I performed a DIY low-impact fluid exchange (thanks 58!).
I drained the pan (a little less than 4 quarts), refilled with new T-IV, then pumped an additional 5 quarts out the tranny cooler return line hose (total of about 9 quarts exchanged). The fluid first came out a cherry cough syrup color, had no metallic goo or burned smell. At the end the fluid was closer to red rather than the pink color of new fluid. I could have exchanged more fluid had I thought to have more on hand.
I guess that's sufficient this year (should I go back and do more now?), but I'd like to hear from others who know. I have three little questions:
1. Was it a mistake to only exchange 9 quarts?
2. About the (2WD) differential: Should I also remove the 10MM drain plug (the one facing the passenger side of the car rather than facing down like the tranny pan drain)? Should this also be drained each time? Is it worth it to go back now and drain it after circulating the fluid?
3. I noticed the flow of tranny fluid through the cooler return line to trans (engine idling) was only about a quart each 15-16 seconds. The flow rate seemed rather meager to me, and the fluid at the disconnected line didn't seem to have much pressure (dribbled down not out of the hose) either. I just figured it would jet out of the hose a bit more forcibly. Is this appropriate, normal, or does it indicate a weak pump? Could the additional cooler (a high-flow slim-design) mounted at the same height aft of the stock cooler in the fender) still cause too much of a pressure drop that may weaken the system?
Thanks folks for all your helpful replies!
Last year I had a trusted tranny mech. change the fluid (with T-IV), the filter (new tranny never had a screen) and gasket. The filter and magnets have been perfectly clean at each inspection (he showed the pan to me), so this year, without dropping the pan or changing the filter, I performed a DIY low-impact fluid exchange (thanks 58!).
I drained the pan (a little less than 4 quarts), refilled with new T-IV, then pumped an additional 5 quarts out the tranny cooler return line hose (total of about 9 quarts exchanged). The fluid first came out a cherry cough syrup color, had no metallic goo or burned smell. At the end the fluid was closer to red rather than the pink color of new fluid. I could have exchanged more fluid had I thought to have more on hand.
I guess that's sufficient this year (should I go back and do more now?), but I'd like to hear from others who know. I have three little questions:
1. Was it a mistake to only exchange 9 quarts?
2. About the (2WD) differential: Should I also remove the 10MM drain plug (the one facing the passenger side of the car rather than facing down like the tranny pan drain)? Should this also be drained each time? Is it worth it to go back now and drain it after circulating the fluid?
3. I noticed the flow of tranny fluid through the cooler return line to trans (engine idling) was only about a quart each 15-16 seconds. The flow rate seemed rather meager to me, and the fluid at the disconnected line didn't seem to have much pressure (dribbled down not out of the hose) either. I just figured it would jet out of the hose a bit more forcibly. Is this appropriate, normal, or does it indicate a weak pump? Could the additional cooler (a high-flow slim-design) mounted at the same height aft of the stock cooler in the fender) still cause too much of a pressure drop that may weaken the system?
Thanks folks for all your helpful replies!
Last edited by LA4Mead; 07-26-11 at 10:34 AM.
07-26-11, 10:49 AM
#197
P.S.'s again,
I disregarded the photo instruction to drain the "transfer case" but I think it should have read "differential" which my 2WD model also has. I think that's where my mistake was.
Secondly, either my trans does not have a magnetic drain plug, or there was not even a minute amount to cling to it. I'm used to magnetic drain plugs on my motorcycles, usually there is a tiny amount of fine stuff on them. The RX transmission, I thought, would normally have something on it, but it was completely clean leaving me to wonder: Do I really have a magnetic tranny drain plug?
I disregarded the photo instruction to drain the "transfer case" but I think it should have read "differential" which my 2WD model also has. I think that's where my mistake was.
Secondly, either my trans does not have a magnetic drain plug, or there was not even a minute amount to cling to it. I'm used to magnetic drain plugs on my motorcycles, usually there is a tiny amount of fine stuff on them. The RX transmission, I thought, would normally have something on it, but it was completely clean leaving me to wonder: Do I really have a magnetic tranny drain plug?
07-26-11, 04:05 PM
#198
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11-14-11, 06:31 PM
#199
Driver School Candidate
Thanks to this thread, it was my reference when doing the front and rear diffs oil and transmission fluid on my 04 RX330 AWD this weekend. I also did brake fluid, cabin filter, air filter, oil change, cleaned maf sensor, flushed brake fluid and rotated tires. Just bought the car a little under a year ago for my fiance' and it was in need of some service. Below are pics I took mainly showing how I was able to crack loose the drain bolt on the front diff and how I filled each diff with their respective fluid using an essentially industrial soap dispenser found and o-reily auto parts.
Rear Diff Was a piece of cake, justed needed a 10mm hex socket, always remove the filler bolt first because if you can't get that removed you will not be able to put fluid back in resulting in a tow. Also I picked up crushable washers for the drain bolt on the rear diff, front diff and transmission fluid.
Front Diff Was more difficult than the rear. Removing the fill bolt wasn't bad but cracking drain bolt loose was a little more difficult. I sprayed the trusted pb blaster on the drain bolt. With the exhaust in the way there wasn't enough clearance for me to fit a ratchet and 24mm socket on it. So I had to use closed side of wrench with an attachment I got from harbor freight that allows me to connect the socket to it. Had just enough clearance to fit that in there and break the bolt loose.
Just showing how I routed the hose from the bottle of oil to the front diff fill hole...
I didn't take pics of draining the transmission fluid as its comparable to doing an oil change just need that 10mm hex socket to remove the tranny drain bolt. Hope this helps someone out in the future.
Rear Diff Was a piece of cake, justed needed a 10mm hex socket, always remove the filler bolt first because if you can't get that removed you will not be able to put fluid back in resulting in a tow. Also I picked up crushable washers for the drain bolt on the rear diff, front diff and transmission fluid.
Front Diff Was more difficult than the rear. Removing the fill bolt wasn't bad but cracking drain bolt loose was a little more difficult. I sprayed the trusted pb blaster on the drain bolt. With the exhaust in the way there wasn't enough clearance for me to fit a ratchet and 24mm socket on it. So I had to use closed side of wrench with an attachment I got from harbor freight that allows me to connect the socket to it. Had just enough clearance to fit that in there and break the bolt loose.
Just showing how I routed the hose from the bottle of oil to the front diff fill hole...
I didn't take pics of draining the transmission fluid as its comparable to doing an oil change just need that 10mm hex socket to remove the tranny drain bolt. Hope this helps someone out in the future.
Last edited by TPenguin; 10-09-15 at 07:40 PM.
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Keir333 (03-30-17)
01-09-12, 10:59 AM
#201
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Soo how many people have done this. go to check tranny fluid go to put dipstick back in and damn thing bends hits pos terminal of battert causing sparkage and smoke think ive done it atleast 5 times when will i learn hahaha
01-09-12, 12:07 PM
#202
Dipstick to positive battery terminal
Your positive terminal should have a protector cap to avoid all kinds of accidental sparking (or in an accident to avoid fire) too. It's a good idea to replace the cap.
03-06-12, 05:28 AM
#204
Super Moderator
08-01-12, 03:22 PM
#206
I've been reading up on the very informative posts on this forum, and this week I finally was able to muster enough courage and time to try and replace the transmission fluid and filter on my 2001 RX300. The dealer where i bought my filter cross reference my VIN and it turned out that the filter for my car is the one with the filter element inside (not the metal screen). The original filter that came with the car also had the filter element so I decided to buy that one (PN: 35330-06010) and the O-ring (PN: 90080-30077).
I was a bit puzzled cause the part guy at the dealership told me that Lexus does not recommend replacing the filter, just do a drain and fill, but when I dropped my tranny pan, there was so much gunk in there and the filter obviously looks so dirty. (see pics).
Anyways, Many thanks to all people who contributed to this very helpful thread, I was able to successfully install a new filter and new transmission fluid. Now my RX shifts much smoother and accelerates much quicker
I was a bit puzzled cause the part guy at the dealership told me that Lexus does not recommend replacing the filter, just do a drain and fill, but when I dropped my tranny pan, there was so much gunk in there and the filter obviously looks so dirty. (see pics).
Anyways, Many thanks to all people who contributed to this very helpful thread, I was able to successfully install a new filter and new transmission fluid. Now my RX shifts much smoother and accelerates much quicker
12-03-12, 01:15 PM
#209
Driver School Candidate
Guys... Thanks for this sticky...i was able to drop the pan and changed the filter and the gasket by myself...
I didnt use the Lexus parts, I googled up the part and that there are compatible part made by
ATP: http://www.atp-inc.com/
You can check the part for fitment here: http://www.showmetheparts.com/ATP/
Apparently, my local NAPA autopart center carried the kit (kit include gasket and filter). Exactly like the one dealer sold. The whole kit cost only $24. Worked like a charm
Again, thanks for those who put this sticky up...very helpful!!!
I didnt use the Lexus parts, I googled up the part and that there are compatible part made by
ATP: http://www.atp-inc.com/
You can check the part for fitment here: http://www.showmetheparts.com/ATP/
Apparently, my local NAPA autopart center carried the kit (kit include gasket and filter). Exactly like the one dealer sold. The whole kit cost only $24. Worked like a charm
Again, thanks for those who put this sticky up...very helpful!!!
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Dyslexi (04-02-23)
12-14-12, 05:31 AM
#210
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I may have missed someone else replying with this...so my apologies in advance...
For me, the one piece of advice I wish I had for my 2001 RX was that the front 3 bolts on the transmission pan need a 1/4" entension wobble (or something similiar). At least that is what helped me. Also, when putting the pan back on, I would also suggest doing those 3 bolts FIRST. They are accessible, but sit just enough under the frame that you cannot get them straight on.
Hope that helps someone.
For me, the one piece of advice I wish I had for my 2001 RX was that the front 3 bolts on the transmission pan need a 1/4" entension wobble (or something similiar). At least that is what helped me. Also, when putting the pan back on, I would also suggest doing those 3 bolts FIRST. They are accessible, but sit just enough under the frame that you cannot get them straight on.
Hope that helps someone.
Last edited by chococat; 12-14-12 at 06:18 AM.