I fixed my misfire (check engine light p0300, p0301, p0302)
#1
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I fixed my misfire (check engine light p0300, p0301, p0302)
So the dreaded check engine light came on. Ran over to AutoZone
and borrowed the code reader. Misfire code on #1 and #2.
p0300, p0301, p0302.
Symptoms were a very rough idle, but the car was still driveable.
Pretty sure I had bad coils. Talked to my Mazda Master Tech brother...
he said coils do have a tendency to die out. I went ahead and ordered 3 new
coils since the rears were difficult to get to.
Toyota moved to a new PN 90080-19016 I paid $90 each.
I believe there is a TSB on this issue.
Well I had to dismantle alot to get to the back plugs!
I guess I had a lot of practice with tight spaces on my MR2 Turbo.
The RX300 sure rivaled it in difficult of removing the intake manifold.
1 ground strap, 2 stay brackets, and 2 hard pipe bolts very hidden
on the backside of the manifold. Lots of fun!
I removed all plugs and inspected. Besides being sooty/dirty/slightly oily -- they
were fine. Once I replaced the #1 and #2 coils -- it idled just fine and the
check engine light went away.
Total R&R time for me was around 6 hours. Fun stuff. Good luck to all those
who have to do the same job!
and borrowed the code reader. Misfire code on #1 and #2.
p0300, p0301, p0302.
Symptoms were a very rough idle, but the car was still driveable.
Pretty sure I had bad coils. Talked to my Mazda Master Tech brother...
he said coils do have a tendency to die out. I went ahead and ordered 3 new
coils since the rears were difficult to get to.
Toyota moved to a new PN 90080-19016 I paid $90 each.
I believe there is a TSB on this issue.
Well I had to dismantle alot to get to the back plugs!
I guess I had a lot of practice with tight spaces on my MR2 Turbo.
The RX300 sure rivaled it in difficult of removing the intake manifold.
1 ground strap, 2 stay brackets, and 2 hard pipe bolts very hidden
on the backside of the manifold. Lots of fun!
I removed all plugs and inspected. Besides being sooty/dirty/slightly oily -- they
were fine. Once I replaced the #1 and #2 coils -- it idled just fine and the
check engine light went away.
Total R&R time for me was around 6 hours. Fun stuff. Good luck to all those
who have to do the same job!
Last edited by MrApex; 03-17-06 at 06:26 AM.
#2
Super Moderator
My uncle was able to put in my TorqueMaster plugs without removing the throttle body. Sure it was a pain but when he heard everyone else was doing it that way, he saw it as as challenge. We did have to take off the accelerator cable and the tube, a hose (PCV) and one other thing on the left side to get to the rear plugs. Putting in a new ignition coil the rear area is a lot easier than changing those plugs.
Last edited by Lexmex; 03-15-06 at 10:25 PM.
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I have P0302 code. I want to check a coil and a plug on a cylinder #2.
Could you tell me how they marked cylinders? what cylinder is #1, #2...?
maybe someone can attach a picture?
By the way, thanks to Lexmex and Meetya for the help: I had P0171 code. mechanic charged $160 to fix it. in two months CEL was up again with the same code. and I fixed that for free in one minute by cleaning MAF with electronic cleaner. Thanks guys!
Could you tell me how they marked cylinders? what cylinder is #1, #2...?
maybe someone can attach a picture?
By the way, thanks to Lexmex and Meetya for the help: I had P0171 code. mechanic charged $160 to fix it. in two months CEL was up again with the same code. and I fixed that for free in one minute by cleaning MAF with electronic cleaner. Thanks guys!
#7
Pole Position
I have P0302 code. I want to check a coil and a plug on a cylinder #2.
Could you tell me how they marked cylinders? what cylinder is #1, #2...?
maybe someone can attach a picture?
By the way, thanks to Lexmex and Meetya for the help: I had P0171 code. mechanic charged $160 to fix it. in two months CEL was up again with the same code. and I fixed that for free in one minute by cleaning MAF with electronic cleaner. Thanks guys!
Could you tell me how they marked cylinders? what cylinder is #1, #2...?
maybe someone can attach a picture?
By the way, thanks to Lexmex and Meetya for the help: I had P0171 code. mechanic charged $160 to fix it. in two months CEL was up again with the same code. and I fixed that for free in one minute by cleaning MAF with electronic cleaner. Thanks guys!
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#8
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my 2c:
One must look at the age of the part that is failing and if there are multiple parts, one should weigh replacing all of them.
For the case above, if 2-3 coil-packs failed, I would have replaced all six. Most probably the others came from the same batch and if 2/6 failed, the others would most likely fail shortly. [pessimistic attitude, but why go through the hassle again and again]
Salim
One must look at the age of the part that is failing and if there are multiple parts, one should weigh replacing all of them.
For the case above, if 2-3 coil-packs failed, I would have replaced all six. Most probably the others came from the same batch and if 2/6 failed, the others would most likely fail shortly. [pessimistic attitude, but why go through the hassle again and again]
Salim
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thanks to everyone!
now it's my turn to share an experience. and ask another question.
with P0302/P0302 code I switched ignition coils on 2-nd and 4-th cylinders. OBD showed P0302/P0304. I supposed P0302 came with computer memory. I purchased new ignition coil 90080-19016 (original was 90919-02234) at Toyota dealership and install on 4-th cylinder. codes disappeared immediately. I ran the engine for 10 min, then drove 5 miles. everything looks ok now.
the only question to professionals is: with codes OBD had red lid up. now (without codes) it has orange lid up. is that normal? should it be green?
now it's my turn to share an experience. and ask another question.
with P0302/P0302 code I switched ignition coils on 2-nd and 4-th cylinders. OBD showed P0302/P0304. I supposed P0302 came with computer memory. I purchased new ignition coil 90080-19016 (original was 90919-02234) at Toyota dealership and install on 4-th cylinder. codes disappeared immediately. I ran the engine for 10 min, then drove 5 miles. everything looks ok now.
the only question to professionals is: with codes OBD had red lid up. now (without codes) it has orange lid up. is that normal? should it be green?
#11
Super Moderator
AMN,
Not sure I have ever heard of that. If you have a CEL on the dash, then there should be an accompanying code. Without any codes, there should be no CEL on the dash.
Only other time you can get no CEL on the dash and have codes is with pending codes that eventually can turn into a non-pending code and cause a light on the dash.
Not sure I have ever heard of that. If you have a CEL on the dash, then there should be an accompanying code. Without any codes, there should be no CEL on the dash.
Only other time you can get no CEL on the dash and have codes is with pending codes that eventually can turn into a non-pending code and cause a light on the dash.
#12
Moderator
thanks to everyone!
now it's my turn to share an experience. and ask another question.
with P0302/P0302 code I switched ignition coils on 2-nd and 4-th cylinders. OBD showed P0302/P0304. I supposed P0302 came with computer memory. I purchased new ignition coil 90080-19016 (original was 90919-02234) at Toyota dealership and install on 4-th cylinder. codes disappeared immediately. I ran the engine for 10 min, then drove 5 miles. everything looks ok now.
the only question to professionals is: with codes OBD had red lid up. now (without codes) it has orange lid up. is that normal? should it be green?
now it's my turn to share an experience. and ask another question.
with P0302/P0302 code I switched ignition coils on 2-nd and 4-th cylinders. OBD showed P0302/P0304. I supposed P0302 came with computer memory. I purchased new ignition coil 90080-19016 (original was 90919-02234) at Toyota dealership and install on 4-th cylinder. codes disappeared immediately. I ran the engine for 10 min, then drove 5 miles. everything looks ok now.
the only question to professionals is: with codes OBD had red lid up. now (without codes) it has orange lid up. is that normal? should it be green?
Salim
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attached is a picture of OBDII I used. probably my description was not correct. after I replaced a coil and erased codes there is no CEL on a car dash board. OBDII has 3 lights: green (all systems are OK), red (and OBD shows a code/codes) and yellow/orange (no codes, but something is not right: there are pending codes, or OBD has not finished monitoring of some systems). in my case orange light is on and there is no pending code. some icons are still blinking (catalist monitor, evaporate system monitor, oxygen sensor monitor, oxygen sensor heater monitor). I supposed they should stop blinking in short time, but they are still blinking after short ride but no codes appear. tomorrow I will drive for an hour and see what happened. I let you know. thanks to all.
Last edited by AMN; 03-04-08 at 07:34 PM. Reason: I do not see a picture I attached to the message
#15
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Ah, I know what you are talking about. Those are readiness monitors. That is something they check in some areas on emissions tests, usually OBD2 tests. My home state of Florida doesn't have that nor even here locally in Mexico, but some places, I think New Jersey, check for that.
For the readiness monitors to be okay, you just have to keep driving, usually an hour or so of straight driving before they reset themselves.
My uncle has a more advanced Actron OBD2 scanner I bought him and it notes these things and I notice it will have an issue if I have just disconnected and reconnected the battery.
For the readiness monitors to be okay, you just have to keep driving, usually an hour or so of straight driving before they reset themselves.
My uncle has a more advanced Actron OBD2 scanner I bought him and it notes these things and I notice it will have an issue if I have just disconnected and reconnected the battery.