Lift points for jack stands on rx 300
01-31-06, 03:32 PM
#1
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Lift points for jack stands on rx 300
I am getting to know my newly bought used rx300 - 2001 awd (my first suv). One of the first things I would like to attempt is to change the transmission fluid, as the last owner had only changed it 30K miles earlier. I have read through the forum (thanks EDERNY and others) and also understand the mechanics of transmission oil change. I have a pro-lift 2 ton and a couple of jack stands which I have used on my accord in the past. Could anyone point out correct jack AND jack-stand placements (lift point) on the RX 300, especially considering my task at hand (transmission fluid change). Thanks a bunch. jim.
01-31-06, 04:04 PM
#2
The jack-stand points are the same points you would use if jacking up the car to change a tire with the spare-tire jack.
The floor jack points are centered (right-to-left) and about a floor jack length in from the bumpers. A visual inspection should show which potential jack point is connected to the frame and the ones not to use (i.e, the transmission).
Maybe somebody else can provide digital photos to illustrate.
The floor jack points are centered (right-to-left) and about a floor jack length in from the bumpers. A visual inspection should show which potential jack point is connected to the frame and the ones not to use (i.e, the transmission).
Maybe somebody else can provide digital photos to illustrate.
02-01-06, 08:04 AM
#3
Moderator
The only "confirmed" point of lift and support are the points where jack to lift the vehicle are indicated in the owners manual. [Problem is that there is a metal seam which goes between the slot in the scissor jack]. I have heard about adapter heads that go on the lift that have a slot. If some one finds out where to get them, please post. [slot-head jack stands wont work as how would you swap the jack with the stand when both want to be in the same location]
One has to be real careful finding a place to put the lift jack/jack stands in order to prevent damage. Remember the days when you could safely lift from the pumpkin, even that did not last for long, ever since manufacturers went to stamped side arms into the pumpkin.
People have discovered points, such as the cross member below the engine fire-wall. STILL No Guarantee that it is a safe place to lift.
Serious - injuries leading to dismemberment to death, can occure if the vehicle is not supported correctly, so my view is avoid all such activity. The risk to saving does not add up. Ramps are a better alternative. [spend extra $$ to get the heavy duty].
After all the discouragement ... luckily, the RX has plenty of ground clearence to do trans-drain-fill with all wheels on the ground.
Salim
One has to be real careful finding a place to put the lift jack/jack stands in order to prevent damage. Remember the days when you could safely lift from the pumpkin, even that did not last for long, ever since manufacturers went to stamped side arms into the pumpkin.
People have discovered points, such as the cross member below the engine fire-wall. STILL No Guarantee that it is a safe place to lift.
Serious - injuries leading to dismemberment to death, can occure if the vehicle is not supported correctly, so my view is avoid all such activity. The risk to saving does not add up. Ramps are a better alternative. [spend extra $$ to get the heavy duty].
After all the discouragement ... luckily, the RX has plenty of ground clearence to do trans-drain-fill with all wheels on the ground.
Salim
02-01-06, 12:15 PM
#4
Originally Posted by salimshah
The only "confirmed" point of lift and support are the points where jack to lift the vehicle are indicated in the owners manual. Salim
Jacking the car up and using jack-stands comes in handy when trying to paint the brake rotors with fast-drying epoxy paint, or when rotating the tires.
10-30-16, 11:03 PM
#5
The only "confirmed" point of lift and support are the points where jack to lift the vehicle are indicated in the owners manual. [Problem is that there is a metal seam which goes between the slot in the scissor jack]. I have heard about adapter heads that go on the lift that have a slot. If some one finds out where to get them, please post. [slot-head jack stands wont work as how would you swap the jack with the stand when both want to be in the same location]
One has to be real careful finding a place to put the lift jack/jack stands in order to prevent damage. Remember the days when you could safely lift from the pumpkin, even that did not last for long, ever since manufacturers went to stamped side arms into the pumpkin.
People have discovered points, such as the cross member below the engine fire-wall. STILL No Guarantee that it is a safe place to lift.
Serious - injuries leading to dismemberment to death, can occure if the vehicle is not supported correctly, so my view is avoid all such activity. The risk to saving does not add up. Ramps are a better alternative. [spend extra $$ to get the heavy duty].
After all the discouragement ... luckily, the RX has plenty of ground clearence to do trans-drain-fill with all wheels on the ground.
Salim
One has to be real careful finding a place to put the lift jack/jack stands in order to prevent damage. Remember the days when you could safely lift from the pumpkin, even that did not last for long, ever since manufacturers went to stamped side arms into the pumpkin.
People have discovered points, such as the cross member below the engine fire-wall. STILL No Guarantee that it is a safe place to lift.
Serious - injuries leading to dismemberment to death, can occure if the vehicle is not supported correctly, so my view is avoid all such activity. The risk to saving does not add up. Ramps are a better alternative. [spend extra $$ to get the heavy duty].
After all the discouragement ... luckily, the RX has plenty of ground clearence to do trans-drain-fill with all wheels on the ground.
Salim
10-31-16, 06:24 AM
#6
Driver School Candidate
I use a piece of 2x4 wood, cut to about 12-15" long. In the inside of the jack points (you can identify them by the two notches about 3" apart on the metals seam behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels) the 2x4 will lay flat against the uni-body. The floor jack bite into the 2x4 and the large surface area of the 12" board spreads out the load right where the car is supposed to be lifted anyway. Been doing it like this for 17 years, solid as a rock and never had a problem. In fact, the only time I've had a problem is trying to lift the car USING the seam lift points! Unless you use a jack or adapter that has the notch in it, you will bend the hell out of this seam and cause problems down the road.
10-31-16, 06:40 AM
#7
been awhile but have you figured out how to use a jack with the rx? i bought a jack but now am unsure i can even use it. i researched the pinch weld jack adapters and they don't seem safe. or should i just jack up the entire front or back of the vehicle instead of individual corners?
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11-06-16, 11:49 PM
#10
question: where is the supposed point of contact when lifting by the pinch weld? is it the weld or the body, which apparently is intentionally uneven on both sides? in other words, is the protruding rail and the slot that it goes into in the scissor jack there for contact or to keep the jack in place? as far as i can tell, the slot and the weld don't actually make contact and the jack lifts the vehicle by the frame surrounding the weld on the inner side.
11-07-16, 09:10 AM
#11
Moderator
Scissor jack opening must fit between the two cutouts on the seam. See the picture on the jack.
Salim
Salim
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