Originally Posted by salimshah

One of the classic (slow) way to bleed the system is to let gravity do the work. Please look it up.

People have their own favorite, I would replace the hose with the stainless type way before replacing the bleeder screw.

Just make sure the master is full and does not drop below 1/3. Remove the the bleeder and put in the the new bleeder. Put a pedal travel limiter and pump the brakes and hold (and let it sink-and only let it up after the bleeder is shut) while the person below opens the bleeder to remove the air in the bleeder channel.

The air get introduced if the master runs out of fluid and you pump air down the tubes or when the pedal moves up and there is an opening (leak) in the hydraulic loop [bleeder open]. The upward pedal motion produces suction.

Salim

Originally Posted by hsmac

so would it be ok then if some air gets into the line while bleeding (whether it be from removing the screw or a slight suction from allowing the pedal to release if not done precisely), as long as the air is ultimately bled back out? air would have to travel pretty far back into the system before it can't be bled back out?

i remember you commenting before how you don't recommend using vacuum bleeders. any specific reason?