carguy07

Just did mine with speedbleeders. Took maybe 1 1/2 hours if that, taking my time and doing them by myself. Definitely only need one can of ATE fluid to flush the system. I did my MDX yesterday and was one splash short of doing both cars with one can, if I had not given it a few extra pumps after the color changed I would have made it. Did not need to jack up the car or take off the wheels. I did cut the front wheels to the side to make it easier. Very easy job, very little mess. I used the IV bag that they sell to catch the old fluid. It seemed pretty expensive for what it was when I bought it. After using it, it is worth every penny. The hose is silicone and super rubbery. It stays on the bleeder with no worries that it will pop off and let fluid go everywhere. The IV bag can just be laid on the floor and will not leak a drop. If you are on the fence just go ahead and do them, they are easy.

Adde666

how much fluid do i need?

carguy07

I bought a one liter can and probably had enough to do it twice. I did my RX & MDX and just needed a splash out of a second can to finish the job. If I had stopped pumping a little sooner when I first saw blue I would have been able to do both cars with one can.

Adde666

thanks man

hsmac

very simple directions thanks for the post. i know there are several methods to bleed the fluid, and my question is why would anyone use the two person method if you can do it by yourself? if it is not necessary to open and close the bleeder screw with each pump (like the directions for two person instruct), why are they doing so? is there greater risk of air getting into the lines with this one person method?

also, if air does get into the lines, is it not a big deal and just needs to be bled out for a few seconds, or is it more of a catastrophic problem that needs to be handled by shop technicians? if we are bleeding and no longer see bubbles is it possible there are more bubbles to come that we just don't see? from what i've researched it seems like air getting into the MC may be catastrophic while air getting in from the screw is not (which is why you can even remove the screw itself if it needs to be replaced).

hsmac

hi all, i'm changing my brake pads and wanted to flush the fluid with the wheels off while i'm at it since i can only jack up one wheel at a time. is there a proper sequence for bleeding that would prevent any fluid that's pushed back from the piston from going back into the system? or do i have to flush the fluid only after i finish changing the pads on all four wheels?

thanks

fastnoypi

flush after you are done changing the pads. If you have the convenience of a floor jack and 2 stands you can raise the front or rear at once. refer to posts #5 and #7 in this thread for reference if you are unfamiliar. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ack-point.html

The bleed procedure is RearR, RearL, FrontR, FrontL

hsmac

thanks. so i can't change and flush rearR, then change and flush rearL, etc?

fastnoypi

i'm not sure what you mean by "can't" ? I just provided you a way so you can jack up more than one wheel at a time.

hsmac

i mean i can't change the pads and flush fluid one wheel at a time before i move on to the next wheel? i don't have a hydraulic.

fastnoypi

You certainly can. It may just take you longer for the job.

hsmac

the way the DIY is written, for a flush all the fluid can be pushed out before adding in new fluid? i thought under no circumstances should air get into the MC. also if the lines aren't bled properly, is it something that is immediately noticeable during a test drive or could you only notice it say a week later while driving on the highway?

Drcoffee

I'm a day late and a dollar short on this tread, but I would suggest you flush the fluid first, because when you install the new pads, you will have to press the caliper piston back into the caliper to make room for thicker pads and that will force old dirty brake fluid back into the ABS syst.

If the bleeders are siezed and cant be opened, there is a good chance the pistons are siezed as well. 3 of mine on a '99 were frozen. Be ready to replace the calipers. I use rebuilts from rockauto.com

as for the sequence to bleed the calipers, always start from the caliper furthest from the master. Just trace the lines if in doubt.

hsmac

does removing the bleeder screw not introduce air into the system? i've been putting this job off in part because i wasn't sure if it needed to be done (many people don't flush brake fluid over life of vehicle) and also because i've been scared of letting air into the system. i assume many DIYers and even some mechanics must let a little air (at some point) in when doing this procedure so can someone realistically summarize what to expect from this job and the risks and consequences of some kind of minor misshap? i'd love to get my fluid changed and do it myself if it makes sense to.

salimshah

One of the classic (slow) way to bleed the system is to let gravity do the work. Please look it up.

People have their own favorite, I would replace the hose with the stainless type way before replacing the bleeder screw.

Just make sure the master is full and does not drop below 1/3. Remove the the bleeder and put in the the new bleeder. Put a pedal travel limiter and pump the brakes and hold (and let it sink-and only let it up after the bleeder is shut) while the person below opens the bleeder to remove the air in the bleeder channel.

The air get introduced if the master runs out of fluid and you pump air down the tubes or when the pedal moves up and there is an opening (leak) in the hydraulic loop [bleeder open]. The upward pedal motion produces suction.

Salim