RX300 Brake Bleeder Screw Replacement DIY
02-04-06, 10:52 AM
#16
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Zeckhausen is a knownable guy. Thanks for sharing the link. I also read his article on balanced brake bias and it is good stuff.
One thing he listed as negative is that the rubber boot leaks, I don't have that problem. I have a good rubber boot connected between the clear plastic tube and the bleeder screw, the seal is good and there is no leak when I keep it on the bleeder screw. When flushing all old fluid out, even if the valve allow tiny bit of fluid sucked back in because the valve needs small amount of time to close, it is old fluid, not air being sucked back.
I do find it is harder to tell when bubbles clears with just one man, just ask your gf or wife to watch color change (ATE superblue has two colors, gold and blue to alternate between blushes) and bubbles clear. Sure there are better pressure and vaccuum bleeding equipement. If you own a shop like David, definitely use them. But 99% of people don't have access to these expensive equipments or have to pay $ to use them.
Have to agree that flushing is better than no flushing!
One thing he listed as negative is that the rubber boot leaks, I don't have that problem. I have a good rubber boot connected between the clear plastic tube and the bleeder screw, the seal is good and there is no leak when I keep it on the bleeder screw. When flushing all old fluid out, even if the valve allow tiny bit of fluid sucked back in because the valve needs small amount of time to close, it is old fluid, not air being sucked back.
I do find it is harder to tell when bubbles clears with just one man, just ask your gf or wife to watch color change (ATE superblue has two colors, gold and blue to alternate between blushes) and bubbles clear. Sure there are better pressure and vaccuum bleeding equipement. If you own a shop like David, definitely use them. But 99% of people don't have access to these expensive equipments or have to pay $ to use them.
Have to agree that flushing is better than no flushing!
Last edited by TunedRX300; 02-06-06 at 12:07 AM.
03-12-07, 10:07 AM
#17
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03-13-07, 02:42 PM
#18
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12-02-08, 04:08 AM
#22
Hey Tunedrx300
I thought I would share this link with everyone (without the intention of swaying the crowd one way or the other).
Just as a FYI and take it for what its worth.
David Zeckhausen is well known in BMW circles for his knowledge of clutch and brake hydraulic mechanisms and high performance applications.
here is a link to what he says about various brake bleeding processes.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/b...ol/bleeder.htm
I think, to bleed brake fluid regardless of the method is always better than to let it sit there, even if you use the process that I saw on a Subaru forum once... (one guy would sifon out with a turkey baster and replenish every couple of trips until he went through 1 bottle of fluid)
Although I don't know what its doing for the rusty fluid and air bubbles sitting in the caliper.
Cheers,
Fern
I thought I would share this link with everyone (without the intention of swaying the crowd one way or the other).
Just as a FYI and take it for what its worth.
David Zeckhausen is well known in BMW circles for his knowledge of clutch and brake hydraulic mechanisms and high performance applications.
here is a link to what he says about various brake bleeding processes.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/b...ol/bleeder.htm
I think, to bleed brake fluid regardless of the method is always better than to let it sit there, even if you use the process that I saw on a Subaru forum once... (one guy would sifon out with a turkey baster and replenish every couple of trips until he went through 1 bottle of fluid)
Although I don't know what its doing for the rusty fluid and air bubbles sitting in the caliper.
Cheers,
Fern
12-03-08, 01:56 AM
#23
I like to replace brake fluid every two years. I remove calipers and compress the piston to remove that fluid first before I use a vacuum bleeder. This isn't an extra step for me because I have found that the caliper slide pins also need to be cleaned/lubed every two years.
12-06-08, 04:25 PM
#24
Ok, good info. Now my beginner's issue. My 2000 RX300 is 8 years old, but only has like 65,000 miles on it. All maintenance done by Lexus according to their schedule. Does that mean that my brakes have, or have not, ever been flushed? Should I be doing that now or when? My brakes work fine and have never needed even new pads according to the Lexus mechanics.
Nick
Nick
12-06-08, 06:28 PM
#25
Well, it depends on whether on not you mean the Lexus maintenance schedule or your dealer's maintenance schedule. The Lexus Owner's Manual calls for replacing the brake fluid every 2 years or 30,000 miles, as I recall. My RX300 is almost exactly the same age and mileage. I replace the brake fluid every 2 years.
10-08-10, 12:10 PM
#28
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1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.
2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.
3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.
For more info visit: http://www.buybrakes.com/motive
2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.
3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.
For more info visit: http://www.buybrakes.com/motive
10-08-10, 01:07 PM
#29
Great diy, thanks for sharing. I used the same speedbleeder valve, but used only one speedbleeder for bleeding. I used a clear tube, one end plugs into the veh bleeder, the other end plugs into the speedbleeder. Unplug it when done, and plug it on the next veh bleeder. save it and use it on any car for bleeding.
10-23-10, 01:06 PM
#30
Just did mine with speedbleeders. Took maybe 1 1/2 hours if that, taking my time and doing them by myself. Definitely only need one can of ATE fluid to flush the system. I did my MDX yesterday and was one splash short of doing both cars with one can, if I had not given it a few extra pumps after the color changed I would have made it. Did not need to jack up the car or take off the wheels. I did cut the front wheels to the side to make it easier. Very easy job, very little mess. I used the IV bag that they sell to catch the old fluid. It seemed pretty expensive for what it was when I bought it. After using it, it is worth every penny. The hose is silicone and super rubbery. It stays on the bleeder with no worries that it will pop off and let fluid go everywhere. The IV bag can just be laid on the floor and will not leak a drop. If you are on the fence just go ahead and do them, they are easy.