salimshah

Remember to change your oil too after you have run down to fuel light. [used almost all of the additive]

The additive usually comes with thinning agent and it makes it way to the oil changing its viscosity.

Salim

RandyRX300

So, because I don't want to make a mistake. Can somebody again tell me the part number for A/F sensor 1 bank 1 at a Toyota Dealer or Auto Zone and also tell me where it is again. I think it is on the driver's side and underneath the car, but not sure.

Thanks!

carguy07

Everything you need is here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...el-sensor.html

Bank 1 Sensor 1 is in the manifold on the back of the motor, closest to the firewall.

The Lexus part # 89467-48011.

The Denso Part # 234-9009

Denso is the exact same as the OE Lexus part and is a ton cheaper.

Advance Auto will price match Amazon if you need it quick.

RandyRX300

Got the Denso from Amazon #234-9009 for $99, no tax or shipping. Also bought the off-set wrench and some anti-seize. The A/A Sensor comes with anti-seize, so will keep it for some other purpose at a later time.

As soon as the weather warms a bit, let the fun begin!

RandyRX300

First, thanks to everybody here that provided assistance. I felt very comfortable starting because of your advice.

I went to Harbor Freight and bought ramps for safety.
The hardest part is the clip. Pushing that tab is what Inigo Montoya said in "Princess Bride", "to the pain"! It really hurts to push it that hard. It has to click and when you let go it clicks (re-locks) again. Since only one hand can fit in the space, how do you push the tab and at the same time pull out the plug? Think of it like this...pushing and releasing is a "tic-toc, tic-toc". Well, I learned to pray while trying how to accomplish both tasks at once. Finally, I pushed it and it went "tic" but no "toc", so I pulled on the plug and it came out! Good thing because I didn't have much push left in my sore fingers and thumb.

Then, remembering what others had said, I thought that getting the sensor out would be a major pain. I put the 22mm off-set wrench on it and only used about an 8" socket and it popped loose with ease. Wow! I climbed out from under the car and pulled both the 7.5A and 20A fuses for EFI and ECM. Put anti-seize on the new sensor, screwed it in and tightened with the wrench, plugged in the pigtail. Voila! job done! Put the fuses back in and car started right up.

Went for a test drive and a vast difference. Before it would buck and hesitate at a light. Now, very smooth. My MPG was down to about 15 from the previous 19+MPG and now I know why. At freeway speeds it was not shifting into O/D. RPM's were at about 3000 at 65MPH, now near 2000 at same speed.

On a further note, no visible smoke out tailpipe on start up. I'll continue to monitor that. Car is smoother and quieter now and drives like it used to.

The A/F sensor had some white on it, but did not look horrible. CEL is off, but I have only driven about 25 miles, so will watch that too.

All total, with ramps, about $150 vs. the $600 quote and it took me less than 45 minutes!

carguy07

Congrats! This is one of those jobs that's not "easy", but worth the aggravation considering what they charge. The smoke was probably just the car running crazy rich in limp mode. Don't freak out if the front one goes out soon too, they like to fail in pairs.

RandyRX300

Okay, so hold on, not so fast... I just had another CEL and ran the Code. It is P1349. After a little Googling, I guess it is the OCV or the filter screen. I will have to pull it and see if the screen is dirty. I can put 12V to the solenoid and see if it is working, but Youtubes indicate that it is likely sludge.
Symptoms were once again smoke on startup and this time mushy ABS.

JAB

I have replaced both OCV over the years. Easy repair; never bothered to test the solenoid; replacement always fixed the problem and the code went away.