Am I supposed to use the twitter thing “@” to refer to another member?
@lobuxracer…….I’m sure in real life you are an awesome guy, however you have asked me to interpret your data and tell you what you’ve missed. Pardon me in advance if I offend you in any way or manner, but I will give you complete honesty.
Where do I begin? Blackstone…….this is a misguided lab, their equipment is old and outdated, they're making recommendations on misguided information, and in turn put out a lot of bad info and damage a lot of peoples engines…..lol…..They’re not even ISO 9001 which is a joke of a certification anyways. I personally don’t see them ever achieving ISO17025:2005, without changing ownership and spending $2-3mil. Ryan doesn’t care to certify his lab, well because all of his customers are on the retail/consumer end side. I apologize; none of you on these forums have any idea on how to interpret data, one bit. Until you understand the ASTM methods of testing procedures and have experience working with the manufacturers making the engines and testing their racing teams, you’ll be lost. Can’t publicy acknowledge affiliations at this time but some of you will catch the drift.
I’m assuming from the values I’ve seen you’re running the oe oil filter and air intake filter…….I could be wrong but the information was not provided, I will assume OE as such.
As an FYI, for you stump the dummies out there, yes it is possible to stump me but that’s because you’re lying. And please don’t urinate in the oil, we can tell through ICP you’re low on nutrients.
Lobuxracer, you’ve had elevated iron readings needlessly for YEARS. Part of that is the M1 formulation, in the past it wouldn’t protect in the high pressure areas on the engine, which is why in 2012 they changed the formulation to include a different additive package. Magnesium Sulfinate was used as an additive and it provides antiwear in extreme pressure areas and it boosts the TBN value by a decent amount. They what they did was drop the calcium carbonate/sulfinate additive pack and compensated with the magnesium sulfinate to stay below the sulfinated ash test. Zinc changed somewhat to a ZDTP ester, which provided some of the AW they were looking for in 2013. It’s still and was a good formula. It’s done fine but you’ve needlessly had fuel dilution the entire time you’ve owned this car. This is a reason blackstone is misguided, and partially why they’re not certified. The oil in your IS-F has been diluted by fuel not by sheer. Because the viscosity improvers in M1 are actually pretty good.
The insoluble’s have consistently been too high the entire time. In other words, the oil is carrying too much stuff, becomes worn and now actually becomes a third party wear agent.
This engine is extremely well built, props to Yamaha for developing the head and the clearances on them, and props to the guys at Toyota that made the rest. I remember when this engine was first being developed and ultimately lead to the collaboration on the LF-A,
Chromium – I don’t think your rings have ever fully seated. There’s not one trace of them in any of your tests, dating all the way to the begin. Would explain the fuel dilution from almost the beginning. If I had met you sooner, I would have told you to seat those rings, aggressively.
Iron- 35ppm, exceedingly high, not damage level or harmful, probably just some oil pump wear taking place, mostly fuel dilution related. Historically you have long term wear, and now that there are a lot of miles, there is probably some micro corrosion wear, the AF test, cannot be performed by Blackstone, you can even see on their website, they publicly state they test some things “at another facility” a.k.a. they call someone like us to do the real stuff.
The oil is not being filtered well, 35 is way too high, however not horrible considering 14,000 miles. I guess I’d be interested in your driving habits…..
Copper – M1 does a very good job mitigating strong acids causing issues, in the beginning you saw it elevated as it seated, mostly the heat exchangers dumping it. Good reading
Lead – there is no conforming lead in the composition of this engine. I did see it early on, probably from gasket making materials and or something used as an antiknock index additive in the fuel. Consistently been low, since there is no lead in this engine. Fine
Tin- interesting…...So there really shouldn’t be any tin, it’s not normally a bearing alloy until you get deep into the bearing, may indicate some long term wear. It’s likely related to the valvetrain somewhere and/or there is also a timing chain tensioner wearing, chain stretch likely also taking effect. Not Good and very concerning.
Nickel – wrist pins are taking a big beating, and needless fuel dilution is taking place. Nickel is a valve guide alloy in this engine. Not good, should be 0 and was for a while
Silver – Most likely the heat exchanger braze coming loose, i.e. the engine got hot, wasn’t running right or dirt ingress that took place or just the oil becoming abrasive from Post EGR fuels residuals.
Titanium – zero, would be used as a tracer in this engine, good.
Potassium – clean historically, never had coolant ingress, so likely contamination from sampling by the lab at some point during possession.
Boron – normal oil additive, completely depleted for this extended drain, would switch to M1 0W-20 EP unless you are racing or tracking your IS-F
Silicon – Elevated, likely dirt ingress…..some…..it’s also an alloy in the cyclinders and pistons. You need to get this under 10ppm, especially for the2UR
Sodium – additive in the oil and also dirt, not sure physically where you are at, but I would study the dirt in your area to get an idea of what it looks like ingested post burn, but it’s in the normal ranges. Only other place I can think of is from fuel tanks that were previously used for diesel and then they cleaned them and used them for gas.
Magnesium – additive from Infineum, please don’t ask how I know that.
Zinc, Phos – normal, tells you nothing looking at these values since you can’t see the active capability and there is no knowledge on the AW capability.
Barium – dye marker or grease trace, usually comes from the oil filter treads
Visc – too thin! The oil has historically been too thin. It is an SAE 30 right now only because it thickened itself back up. It’s far too thin; if you buy a 5W-30 do you want an SAE 30? If you want a 20, just go buy one, it’ll do better than this 30 has in staying in grade.
Oil did sheer and thin from post EGR fuel dilution, meaning residuals are causing problems in the engine, classic on these new modern engines where a lot of compromise has to be made.
Flash Point – 390….this is probably an open cup flash where they do it under a hood…..it is not an accurate test for today’s new fuels. Should be well above 400, this car has chronically had FD it’s entire life.
Fuel % - completely inaccurate, they are making calculations and not actually testing for this. Another machine blackstone does not have, GC. FD has likely been at 1%-2% the entire time. RED FLAG.
Antifreeze % - they’re doing water by crackle test……not accurate but I agree there probably isn’t coolant
Water PPM – crackle test? They’re not doing Karl Fischer. Their method is so inaccurate, I don’t know how much water you have in your engine or don’t have.
Insolubles – 0.3%?? <0.6%, what is wrong with those people. On a clean engine you should have 0-0.1%. You’ve never been there. Your air filter and oil filtration is hammering this oil. It’s not M1’s fault! This is a VVT engine with 4 cams, and many many valves. You’re tearing this engine up for no reason. Wasted $$$ on bad analysis, engine has long term wear damage in my opinion at this point.
You need to get a better oil filter, I recommend the WIX XP, I’ve tested the filter many times at work and I can tell you this filter is probably better than WIX knows it is.
TBN – it’s depleted, they say it’s strong? Ok the acid is probably in reasonable control, but with the fuel dilution you get varnish formation from fuel, it’s really hard to read. Most labs don’t do a good job of knowing it’s there. You need different tests at this point
Honestly, analytically if you accept this much wear, you can probably go to 18,000. The car isn’t in tune, never has been……… you’re beating the F--- out of your engine.
Also, I’d recommend changing out the plugs and coils and boots at this point. Check for chain stretch, switch your oil and filter. And get a new air filter in there or look at the CAI for leaks. M1 EP 0W-20 with WIX XP is my recommendation for what you want to do and this engine. This is why Lexus doesn't want people going 14k. I would seriously consider some introspecting and ask if you would be willing to accept maybe your science project is over and you move down to 10K..........And no I will not divulge for the people that have PMed, how I know the inner design of the 2UR-GSE.
Blackstone has royally misguided you unintentionally.