JB5674

I'm looking for some guidance going into my second oil change next week.

For those over 9-10k miles and have had their second service........

I'm wondering if you can help me out by letting me know who stuck with conventional oil? Who switched to synthetic? If switched to synthetic.....what brand and why

Thanks in advance

Ryanmcd

Not this again.

The people who designed your motor know more about what to use then anyone on a internet forum. I would use what they said too and it's no synthetic, if you have problems I am sure it would be easier to get it resolved if you use what they said too.

This car does use some oil I have added 2QT's in 10k miles 1 per oil change.

coolsaber

Simple RTFM
Then get the published data sheet of the spec'd oil
Look for the exact #s on the other oils in the same visc
Then purchase a Oil Analysis Kit
Take a sample of your current used oil
Then take a sample of your oil change oil
Then drive 9-10K sample used and new
THen do another 9-10k sample new and used

Then compare the VOA, UOAs, etc to see if your new oil is in spec. Should only take a couple $$$s and couple hours of your week and you`ll be in the know after about 30K miles.



OR

you could just keep on using the oil spec`d by the people who are intimately familiar with your engine, performance data, and etc needs of the engine, and use the $$$ you would spend buying oil analysis kits, oils and filter, and time spent on analysis and just do burnouts and enjoy long GT rides in the RC-F

4everkidd

iTrader: (2)

End of the day a high end synthetic oil is not going to cause any damage to your engine, especially if you have the oil change done at your dealer.

I don't care what anyone on this forum says, a -40 degree start is easier on an engine with a stabilized synthetic oil... side note I'm a petrochemical engineer.

JT2MA71

iTrader: (7)

I will be using Amsoil like I did on my IS-F. I will probably do it at the second oil change (first will be at 3000 and second at 6000), depending on Blackstone sample results.
Oil change every 7500 to 10,000 miles with the Amsoil. Cheap insurance IMO.

cones169

i just had my 12 month service and had the dealer put in synthetic.

corradoMR2

What about summer months? Any chemical/physical advantage using synthetic?

airlaird

I think the synthetic question is brought up again simply because it has been proven that synthetic oil lasts much longer between intervals along with other benefits. Many on this forum are probably dumfounded why Lexus is using Dino Oil instead of Synthetic....at least I am ;-)
airlaird

coolsaber

Since you are an engineer, any insight as to what makes Dino better for this application?

Carnevino

I've always used MOTUL synthetic.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

Why is that I do my own oil changes. I trust myself more than any dealer's tech

Lou

corradoMR2

^^^ I think he meant for liability/warranty in the remote chance something were to go wrong.

4everkidd

iTrader: (2)

Lou,

To clarify, I don't mean that a dealer will be any safer or more efficient changing the oil (as I also change my own oil) I just meant the "cover your ***" aspect of having a dealer perform the work. A dealer isn't going to put synthetic in your engine if its going to cause damage as that will directly be covered under full warranty... I recently got my car back from the dealer and the tech had torqued my aluminum lug nuts to over 110ft-lbs; so human error is always a risk even when having work done at a certified dealer.

Benefits of using a synthetic is summer months would be resistance to thermal degradation. A properly engineered synthetic oil is simply more stable for longer periods of time than a dino oil and can have a higher specific heat capacity (take longer to heat up to boiling point) for track applications etc.

I'm not sure what the reasoning for dino oil from the manufacturer would be, but it may be the fact that the dino oil is more lubricious, and can have better coating properties than a synthetic without the proper additives.

If you are going to change oils I would suggest staying with the same viscosity, or very close to it. Also I would suggest staying with an engineered at a molecular level Group 4 oil vs a reprocessed dino oil Group 3; both can be sold as synthetic.
But I'm no motor oil expert so choose accordingly. Personally I don't keep my cars long enough to worry about synthetic, I change my oil regularly and I park underground when its freezing *** cold.

I look for many of the same properties as found in automotive oil when I'm selecting a drilling fluid for my high pressure high temperature wells.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

^^^^I've been using Pennzoil full synthetic since I got my ISF back in 2008. Now use Pennzoil Platinum Ultra. Since I live in Arizona, hot summers and no freezing in the winter I use 10w30.

And I keep a detailed Excel spreadsheet of everything I do. As far as warranty goes, It's modded, so I guess I've thrown the warranty out the window.

Lou

lexusrus

Believe it or not, at a lot of car dealers ' service department (Lexus included), the person changin your oil is the least experienced and lowest paid person in the service department! ! In the case of an MB dealer that I know, the guy doing the oil change is nick named "the sucker" since the protocol per MB factory for non -AMG MB vehicles is to put the catheter down the dip stick tube and SUCK the oil out!! AMG models requires undoing two drain plugs and let the oil drain out.

So I check my oil levels at pick up and all that after all oil changes, even if done at the dealer.