Steering wheel removal
#2
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/802775-diy-steering-wheel-installation.html
#4
#5
So here are some pictures I took during my removal and installation of the wheel. The quality of the DCTMS Carbon/Leather wheel is superb, equal to the quality of the factory wheel. Highly recommended
Slide the driver's seat back so that there's enough space for you to work on either side of the steering wheel.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. I waited 5 minutes, probably more than enough before starting with the removal.
Using a short flat tiny screwdriver, carefully pop the two side plastic covers off of the steering wheel. The right side goes through the cruise control stalk.
Upon removal of the two side covers, you'll see these spring pins on each side, push them slightly with a screwdriver and you'll notice the horn pad/airbag assembly pop away from the steering wheel, it is held in three positions.
This is after freeing the horn pad from the left side of the wheel.
The three white tapered deals with springs under them are how the assembly is held by the pins.
Carefully pry up the yellow locking tabs from the two airbag connectors.
This ground wire also has a small locking tab on it, press it down and the spade connector pulls off the airbag. Then set the airbag in a safe place. I took mine out of the car just in case
Slide the driver's seat back so that there's enough space for you to work on either side of the steering wheel.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. I waited 5 minutes, probably more than enough before starting with the removal.
Using a short flat tiny screwdriver, carefully pop the two side plastic covers off of the steering wheel. The right side goes through the cruise control stalk.
Upon removal of the two side covers, you'll see these spring pins on each side, push them slightly with a screwdriver and you'll notice the horn pad/airbag assembly pop away from the steering wheel, it is held in three positions.
This is after freeing the horn pad from the left side of the wheel.
The three white tapered deals with springs under them are how the assembly is held by the pins.
Carefully pry up the yellow locking tabs from the two airbag connectors.
This ground wire also has a small locking tab on it, press it down and the spade connector pulls off the airbag. Then set the airbag in a safe place. I took mine out of the car just in case
#6
Mark the shaft to make sure the new wheel will be installed straight. Unplug the black and the white connector shown here above the center nut. The airbag wires will stay and slip through the hole on the upper center of the wheel.
After removing the center nut, either use a gear puller or just wiggle the wheel loose. Pull wheel out while guiding the airbag wires/connectors through the top hole.
Take pictures or remember how all the parts go on the wheel and start removing each part off starting with the paddle shifters held by 2 screws each.
Last edited by JT2MA71; 02-14-16 at 02:31 PM.
#7
So from here it's just a matter of transferring everything over to the new wheel. Route the the airbag wires/connector through the opening on the wheel and install the wheel following the mark you made to make sure it's straight. Torque the center nut to 37 ft lbs. grasp the wheel to keep from turning while tightening the nut. Do not rely on the steering lock on keeping it from turning.
Reconnect the black and the white connectors, reconnect the air bag connectors and the ground wire. Carefully lower the airbag onto the wheel making sure no wires are pinched and press right where the 3 locking points are. Reconnect the negative battery cable and enjoy your new wheel!!
Last edited by JT2MA71; 02-14-16 at 04:32 PM.
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#8
Thanks! My one fear is when putting the wheel back on that the wheel is not dead center. Are there built in fail safes like ridges or something that keeps the wheel in place? I'd hate to install and find out its slightly turned left or right.
Any recommended torque?
Good job! This should be a sticky. Bet a bunch of folks gonna get some wheels from this vendor.
Any recommended torque?
Good job! This should be a sticky. Bet a bunch of folks gonna get some wheels from this vendor.
#9
Thanks! My one fear is when putting the wheel back on that the wheel is not dead center. Are there built in fail safes like ridges or something that keeps the wheel in place? I'd hate to install and find out its slightly turned left or right.
Any recommended torque?
Good job! This should be a sticky. Bet a bunch of folks gonna get some wheels from this vendor.
Any recommended torque?
Good job! This should be a sticky. Bet a bunch of folks gonna get some wheels from this vendor.
Last edited by JT2MA71; 05-30-17 at 05:30 PM.
#11
Hey man, thanks for posting this. The wheel was a lot easier to take off than I thought. The wiring harness transfer was more a pain.
Took me a minute to decide to go ahead and do this.
Thanks Mod in Japan for 1 day shipping!
One tip I want to share.
After loosening the bolt. Leave it on. Then you can really yank at the wheel and it comes off relatively easy. I pulled back on each side (top, bottom, left, right) with a short yanking motion.
Took me a minute to decide to go ahead and do this.
Thanks Mod in Japan for 1 day shipping!
One tip I want to share.
After loosening the bolt. Leave it on. Then you can really yank at the wheel and it comes off relatively easy. I pulled back on each side (top, bottom, left, right) with a short yanking motion.
The following 2 users liked this post by LXSDO:
JT2MA71 (05-30-17),
ModInJapan (05-30-17)
#12
Lexus Enthusiasts
iTrader: (5)
Hey man, thanks for posting this. The wheel was a lot easier to take off than I thought. The wiring harness transfer was more a pain.
Took me a minute to decide to go ahead and do this.
Thanks Mod in Japan for 1 day shipping!
One tip I want to share.
After loosening the bolt. Leave it on. Then you can really yank at the wheel and it comes off relatively easy. I pulled back on each side (top, bottom, left, right) with a short yanking motion.
Took me a minute to decide to go ahead and do this.
Thanks Mod in Japan for 1 day shipping!
One tip I want to share.
After loosening the bolt. Leave it on. Then you can really yank at the wheel and it comes off relatively easy. I pulled back on each side (top, bottom, left, right) with a short yanking motion.
The following users liked this post:
thollaway (07-07-20)
#13
Hey man, thanks for posting this. The wheel was a lot easier to take off than I thought. The wiring harness transfer was more a pain.
Took me a minute to decide to go ahead and do this.
Thanks Mod in Japan for 1 day shipping!
I woul
One tip I want to share.
After loosening the bolt. Leave it on. Then you can really yank at the wheel and it comes off relatively easy. I pulled back on each side (top, bottom, left, right) with a short yanking motion.
Took me a minute to decide to go ahead and do this.
Thanks Mod in Japan for 1 day shipping!
I woul
One tip I want to share.
After loosening the bolt. Leave it on. Then you can really yank at the wheel and it comes off relatively easy. I pulled back on each side (top, bottom, left, right) with a short yanking motion.
#14
kizzzim is 100% correct, I got the same steering wheel, and replace it on my GSF and the steering was off level like1.5degree, it bother me so much and I dont want anyone to touch the factory aligment yet, since car only have like under 3000 miles, I told the steering wheel off and put back Oem one, maybe one day when I need alignment i will swap it.
#15
kizzzim is 100% correct, I got the same steering wheel, and replace it on my GSF and the steering was off level like1.5degree, it bother me so much and I dont want anyone to touch the factory aligment yet, since car only have like under 3000 miles, I told the steering wheel off and put back Oem one, maybe one day when I need alignment i will swap it.
Fyi. 1 alignment is covered under warranty.