RC F Dyno Procedures
01-07-16, 07:22 PM
#1
RC F Dyno Procedures
I will preface this post by saying I understand that there are many factors that can/will cause dyno results to vary from car to car, dyno to dyno, and even day to day. However, I thought it would be useful to some of us (or maybe just me 
) to have a single post/thread that listed the things that should be done to get the most appropriate (notice I didn’t say optimum) dyno results. I also think it might be helpful to make this a Sticky or to have a link to this thread in the RC F FAQ and DIY thread. I will ask Dave (DaveFS4) to do that. I will start a list in this post but, please, if you have any input, recommendations, things that may have been omitted, do not hesitate to post them up.
Drive Mode – Sport+ Car will need to be in Sport+ in order to get proper traction control modes
Traction Control – Put in Expert Mode. In order to get Expert Mode, put the car in Sport+ first then, press and release the traction control button once, a yellow Expert mode light will appear on the dash inside the tach next to the sport+ drive mode indicator.
TVD – Unsure of most appropriate mode or if this will impact results at all. I would probably default to Track Mode. Input welcomed here.
Transmission – Gear selector should be in manual mode and car should be dyno’d in 6th gear. That is the 1:1 ratio in our cars and it was similar for the IS F with the same transmission.
Pre-Collision – If your car is equipped with this, it should be disabled for dynoing. Expert Mode (see above) should disable this or there is a button under the steering column.
HVAC – Ensure your HVAC is turned off. A/C compressor could actually be a small drag on the engine.
Dyno Settings – This may only be applicable dynojets but graphs should be SAE corrected and smoothing should be set to 5.
) to have a single post/thread that listed the things that should be done to get the most appropriate (notice I didn’t say optimum) dyno results. I also think it might be helpful to make this a Sticky or to have a link to this thread in the RC F FAQ and DIY thread. I will ask Dave (DaveFS4) to do that. I will start a list in this post but, please, if you have any input, recommendations, things that may have been omitted, do not hesitate to post them up.Drive Mode – Sport+ Car will need to be in Sport+ in order to get proper traction control modes
Traction Control – Put in Expert Mode. In order to get Expert Mode, put the car in Sport+ first then, press and release the traction control button once, a yellow Expert mode light will appear on the dash inside the tach next to the sport+ drive mode indicator.
TVD – Unsure of most appropriate mode or if this will impact results at all. I would probably default to Track Mode. Input welcomed here.
Transmission – Gear selector should be in manual mode and car should be dyno’d in 6th gear. That is the 1:1 ratio in our cars and it was similar for the IS F with the same transmission.
Pre-Collision – If your car is equipped with this, it should be disabled for dynoing. Expert Mode (see above) should disable this or there is a button under the steering column.
HVAC – Ensure your HVAC is turned off. A/C compressor could actually be a small drag on the engine.
Dyno Settings – This may only be applicable dynojets but graphs should be SAE corrected and smoothing should be set to 5.
Last edited by weswork; 02-08-16 at 02:24 PM.
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2Insane (05-26-17)
01-08-16, 07:41 AM
#4
6th gear is the appropriate gear for a dyno run, but like the OP said, not optimum.
At first, I really wanted to dyno my RC F, but after some research I decided against it. Reasons why? Dynos are meant for tuning, our cars can't be tuned(yet). Also, 6th gear is in fact the appropriate gear for a dyno run, but the car hits its electronically limited top speed in this gear prior to peak power output. Lastly, dynos vary!
What I would like to know, do the TVD and Torsen cars put down different amounts of power?
At first, I really wanted to dyno my RC F, but after some research I decided against it. Reasons why? Dynos are meant for tuning, our cars can't be tuned(yet). Also, 6th gear is in fact the appropriate gear for a dyno run, but the car hits its electronically limited top speed in this gear prior to peak power output. Lastly, dynos vary!
What I would like to know, do the TVD and Torsen cars put down different amounts of power?
01-12-16, 02:34 AM
#5
6th gear is the appropriate gear for a dyno run, but like the OP said, not optimum.
At first, I really wanted to dyno my RC F, but after some research I decided against it. Reasons why? Dynos are meant for tuning, our cars can't be tuned(yet). Also, 6th gear is in fact the appropriate gear for a dyno run, but the car hits its electronically limited top speed in this gear prior to peak power output. Lastly, dynos vary!
What I would like to know, do the TVD and Torsen cars put down different amounts of power?
At first, I really wanted to dyno my RC F, but after some research I decided against it. Reasons why? Dynos are meant for tuning, our cars can't be tuned(yet). Also, 6th gear is in fact the appropriate gear for a dyno run, but the car hits its electronically limited top speed in this gear prior to peak power output. Lastly, dynos vary!
What I would like to know, do the TVD and Torsen cars put down different amounts of power?
If 6th gear is the golden gear, you have to get a Speed Limiter Cut which will hopefully make the RCF reach 7,100 RPM. http://www.japanpartsmaster.com/Spee...f-123-1013.htm But then, again, you won't really be able to reach top speed on the highways regularly besides dyno and those really fast racing events. How about 5th gear if 6th gear is hindered by Speed Limiter?
01-12-16, 12:58 PM
#6
For expert mode, you just touch the traction control button while in sport+. Holding it for 3 seconds disables everything. Expert mode disables traction control, so that's enough for a dyno run. As a side comment, expert mode shows all dash lights as off (just like if you hold the button for 3 seconds), but stability control is still enabled with a high degree of intervention. Unless you know what you're doing, it's better to not disable everything. You can still do modest drifting, like power oversteering and the like. But if you get bent out of shape, it kicks in saving your butt. The only visual difference between the 2 is the absence of the 'expert' yellow light on the dash. Hope this helps.
01-14-16, 08:21 AM
#7
What if it's SAE corrected but the smoothing was left at 0. Is there a way to convert the results as if it was on 5?
We can't really tune our ECUs but we can somewhat tune our car overall through Headers, Full Exhaust Systems, Intake, Filter, etc that give extra HP/TQ.
If 6th gear is the golden gear, you have to get a Speed Limiter Cut which will hopefully make the RCF reach 7,100 RPM. http://www.japanpartsmaster.com/Spee...f-123-1013.htm But then, again, you won't really be able to reach top speed on the highways regularly besides dyno and those really fast racing events. How about 5th gear if 6th gear is hindered by Speed Limiter?
We can't really tune our ECUs but we can somewhat tune our car overall through Headers, Full Exhaust Systems, Intake, Filter, etc that give extra HP/TQ.
If 6th gear is the golden gear, you have to get a Speed Limiter Cut which will hopefully make the RCF reach 7,100 RPM. http://www.japanpartsmaster.com/Spee...f-123-1013.htm But then, again, you won't really be able to reach top speed on the highways regularly besides dyno and those really fast racing events. How about 5th gear if 6th gear is hindered by Speed Limiter?
I haven't done a baseline Dyno on my car yet but I'm surprised at the speed limiter cut as I didn't experience it on my IS-F nor had I seen it mentioned on the IS-F forums. I'm sure you could use 5 as long as you used it consistently to compare dynos for your own car as you perform different mods. I still think I will plan to go with 6th to be consistent with others. Also not sure if using a gear other than the 1:1 makes the "standard" calc to convert back to crank hp different.
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01-14-16, 08:38 AM
#8
For expert mode, you just touch the traction control button while in sport+. Holding it for 3 seconds disables everything. Expert mode disables traction control, so that's enough for a dyno run. As a side comment, expert mode shows all dash lights as off (just like if you hold the button for 3 seconds), but stability control is still enabled with a high degree of intervention. Unless you know what you're doing, it's better to not disable everything. You can still do modest drifting, like power oversteering and the like. But if you get bent out of shape, it kicks in saving your butt. The only visual difference between the 2 is the absence of the 'expert' yellow light on the dash. Hope this helps.
). I do wonder if any events on the dyno could trigger stability control, such as the back end swaying on the rollers a little bit but, for now we will use this mode until otherwise contradicted.
Still curious about TVD impacts, if any.
04-12-16, 08:01 PM
#13
Wanted to share some of my dyno results. A couple of things. First, I will say that I am a little disappointed in the results but, I DO NOT regret any of my performance mods/adds ($ value) and am not seeking to disparage anyone’s product. In one form or another they have provided me value. I will likely continue to add things to the car and try to measure impact as I go along. I may also get a logging cable and software to see if there are things that I can do to enhance my results, although I want to be careful not to do anything that only impacts dyno results and is not something that is repeatable in day-to-day driving/real world experience. I’ve been following the IS-F ECU flashing threads and there has been a lot of reference to Knock Correction Learning Value (KCLV) stored in the ECU and how it impacts performance. There are supposedly things you can do to get it up but, I am unclear if once you get it up (no pun intended) will it stay there or does it revert back over time based on various factors. Second, overall the results seem a little odd and not what one would have anticipated. I am really focusing on the deltas here as I know dyno results can vary from car to car, dyno to dyno, and even day to day based on conditions. I did try to keep most variables consistent. Used the same dyno, I operated the car, and made the same adjustments as listed in this thread. Conditions (temp and humidity) was fairly consistent in the dyno building on the different days. Car was not driven overly hard or heat soaked in getting to dyno location (10-15 minutes of cool down as car was getting set up on the dyno). Any and all input or comments are welcome. I will try to answer questions as best I can. I will say that the dyno operator was surprised and complimentary of these results as he wasn’t familiar with Lexus’ F brand and thought the car performed and sounded awesome, especially for a NA 5 liter v8 with no modified ECU parameters. He’s primarily a GM LS guy.
Baseline – All stock, ~2500 mi on car, 3 runs w/best results:
377 rwhp/349 lb/ft TQ – SAE
387 rwhp/359 lb/ft TQ – STD
Apexi Intake system (silicone tube/drop-in filter) – same day as baseline, 10 minute cool down for install of intake, 2 runs w/best results:
390 rwhp/348 lb/ft TQ – SAE
401 rwhp/358 lb/ft TQ – STD
Delta – (+13 rwhp/+0 lb/ft TQ)
Meisterschaft GTC exhaust & Apexi intake system – 2mos after baseline (1 mo after exhaust install), ~3K mi on car, 5 runs w/best results:
391 rwhp/365 lb/ft TQ – SAE
400 rwhp/365 lb/ft TQ – STD (think there may have been a hiccup here as there seems to be about a gap of 10 between both hp and tq when comparing SAE to STD readings on this dyno)
Deltas:
Vs Intake runs – (+0 rwhp/+17 lb/ft TQ)
Vs Baseline runs – (+13 rwhp/+17 lb/ft TQ)
Baseline – All stock, ~2500 mi on car, 3 runs w/best results:
377 rwhp/349 lb/ft TQ – SAE
387 rwhp/359 lb/ft TQ – STD
Apexi Intake system (silicone tube/drop-in filter) – same day as baseline, 10 minute cool down for install of intake, 2 runs w/best results:
390 rwhp/348 lb/ft TQ – SAE
401 rwhp/358 lb/ft TQ – STD
Delta – (+13 rwhp/+0 lb/ft TQ)
Meisterschaft GTC exhaust & Apexi intake system – 2mos after baseline (1 mo after exhaust install), ~3K mi on car, 5 runs w/best results:
391 rwhp/365 lb/ft TQ – SAE
400 rwhp/365 lb/ft TQ – STD (think there may have been a hiccup here as there seems to be about a gap of 10 between both hp and tq when comparing SAE to STD readings on this dyno)
Deltas:
Vs Intake runs – (+0 rwhp/+17 lb/ft TQ)
Vs Baseline runs – (+13 rwhp/+17 lb/ft TQ)
