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I was planning on using a mirrortap to install my new dash cam system. The hardwire kit that came with it has 3 wires though (battery, ground, acc). Is it not possible to do it with a mirrortap? Will I have to splice into my harness if I do it at the mirror?
Edit: It appears I may need to run it to my fuse box. I think I'm going to pay someone to do it rather than messing with it myself. I'm not sure where to take it though... off to Google.
I was planning on using a mirrortap to install my new dash cam system. The hardwire kit that came with it has 3 wires though (battery, ground, acc). Is it not possible to do it with a mirrortap? Will I have to splice into my harness if I do it at the mirror?
Edit: It appears I may need to run it to my fuse box. I think I'm going to pay someone to do it rather than messing with it myself. I'm not sure where to take it though... off to Google.
Is it USB powered? Check out my install tapping into the mirror:
Nope. It's also 12v (I believe USB is 5v), and I need to connect to both a switched and non-switched power source (for parking mode on the dashcam).
Edit: I found a DIY mirrortap article. I can use D-sub connectors and attach them directly to the wires on the hardwire kit that came with my camera system. The mirror has all of the connections that I require, I just don't want to splice my harness and the actual mirrortaps only have 2 wires instead of 3. Total cost will be under $5. The time spent scouring the internet was free since I'm at work.
Here's some pics from my DIY mirrortap install using some crimp D-sub connectors. I just crimped them onto the wire ends and wrapped them with electrical tape. Heat shrink sleeves would probably be better though.
The hard part was getting all 3 wires into that little area. I had to add some more electrical tape between the wires to keep the metal ends of the D-sub connectors from touching each other. It's not a pretty job, but it works.
Ignore the unfinished garage. I'm at a temporary apartment in NC for my job.
.... my installation - camera and V1 via mirror tap
Some differences with my installation - #1 the colors of the wires in my car are different (blue and pink) and I didn't send blendermount any of my money (too pricey)
Camera + mount + cabling + power adapter = about $130.00 ALL IN
I did a lot of research last year and talked myself out of buying a radar detector for two reasons.
1. Too many false alarms
2. Illegal in Virginia (stupid f'ing state)
I love my Valentine 1 and I have it installed in both my vehicles. I rarely get false alarms after programming it appropriately. IMHO, there is just no substitute for looking at the arrow when you get a warning to know how worried to be and where to look for the cop.
I love my Valentine 1 and I have it installed in both my vehicles. I rarely get false alarms after programming it appropriately. IMHO, there is just no substitute for looking at the arrow when you get a warning to know how worried to be and where to look for the cop.
I used to run radar detectors, so I'm not bashing them. But I would like to say that my recent ticket for speeding at 100 mph would not have been prevented by any detector. But if I had a detector when the officer arrived at my window it likely would have meant that I was going to jail. He was close to taking me as it was. If he had seen the detector I think it would have been the straw to break the camel's back, so to speak. I've gotten tickets in the past and was told by the officer that he considered "that" (as he pointed at my radar detector) to be my warning.
With insta-lock radar/laser guns your detector will only tell you when they clock someone in front of you, or when they clock you. If you're on the road alone, it's going to be you...
Resurrecting this Thread in hope that someone with a 2017 RCF will read it (Or with identical Mirror)
Have the Uniden R3 that I refuse to use with all the cords and Suction Cup - this "Blendmount" appears very sturdy and promising for sure. I like the ability to remove the unit fast if need be. I've been searching this whole forum trying to find the conversation I had with a Member who Mirror Mounted his R3. Ughhhh
Therefore, if anyone reading this can help shed some light on which Part #s I would need for both the Blendmount and Wire Tap I would be greatly indebted folks?
I think this is the Blendmount I would use? https://store.blendmount.com/blendmo...ies-p3691.aspx
Resurrecting this Thread in hope that someone with a 2017 RCF will read it (Or with identical Mirror)
Have the Uniden R3 that I refuse to use with all the cords and Suction Cup - this "Blendmount" appears very sturdy and promising for sure. I like the ability to remove the unit fast if need be. I've been searching this whole forum trying to find the conversation I had with a Member who Mirror Mounted his R3. Ughhhh
Therefore, if anyone reading this can help shed some light on which Part #s I would need for both the Blendmount and Wire Tap I would be greatly indebted folks?
I think this is the Blendmount I would use? https://store.blendmount.com/blendmo...ies-p3691.aspx
Thanks!
You'll need your production date to be sure of the wire colors. There are different possibilities based on the actual month of production. The one thing you can say with reasonable certainty is the pink wire on pin 6 is unswitched power. The wire on pin 1 could be blue, pink, or violet depending on when the car was produced, and that is IG1, switched power. Ground is on pin 2 and it could be blue or violet depending on the production date.
Lexus has made this extraordinarily challenging because they've used the same colors for different purposes. Even with the diagram, I would want to use a meter to be certain I had the right wires. The one thing that doesn't change is the pin numbers on the connectors.
Hey guys, had time, so decided to tackle the job blindly before anybody replied. But thanks for the help anyway. Install went perfect, and nothing broken. Tapping the right wires took the longest, as the car harness had totally different colors than the mirror one. Nothing made sense, so decided to do what I should have done initially, which was to test every wire against ground, to see which ones had juice, and avoid blowing my multimeter's fuse. Here are the results and observations of my install:
1. I could use the GTR's mount, which is p/n BV1-2000. The RC-F's is BV1-2012. The only difference is a notch for the wires, but I actually liked mine better. Not only for the looks, but could get the ring much higher (all the way to touching the plastic cover), to minimize the gap between detector and mirror. It was larger than I wanted, but remembered the garage buttons are under the mirror, so couldn't have done it any closer, or would have lost use of the 3rd button and to turn off the anti-glare feature. I don't use either button, but they're reachable, like they should be. Therfore, the gap was the absolute minimum possible, and it was barely large enough to operate the buttons, so perfect compromise.
2. I used the 9" MirrorTap MT-2009, and it was even longer than needed. But 'wrapped' it under the cable harness, and ended up looking great. The 12" would have been way too long. I did it the best way, but the harder way. If you want to tap the car's connector, then for sure you'd need the 12" one (MT-2012), but would be a mess to install with the mirror in place (plus if you need to remove the mirror, what a PITA). Anyway, had a new MT-3009 spare cable, which would have been perfect for the mirror's small connector... but when installing the second lead, pushed the first one a little, and it broke. Geez. So simply opened up the gap a little with a pic, and inserted the MT-2009 leads, which are very strong, yet slim enough even for that connector (you can see the red lead in one of the photos below).
3. WIRES TO TAP (for SWITCHED power). As I mentioned, wire colors are different on both connectors, but if you want to do the job right, tap the mirror, instead of the car. MUCH easier to remove and install the mirror as one unit, than having to tap/untap wires every time you install/remove the mirror... but to each his own. Besides, I always prefer to mess with a replaceable component as well.
POSITIVE= tap the WHITE wire
GROUND= tap the BLACK wire. Couldn't get easier than that folks. But yes, you need to remove the plastic cover over the connector, and also the connector from the mirror. You'll need a strong metal sharp pic to make a gap for the MirrorTap wire leads to go in. But they go in super secure. The job looks almost OEM, and super clean; just the way I like it. The beauty of this method is zero alteration to the vehicle, and it can be reversed by just pulling the leads.
4. Level radar detector in both directions with your mirror mounted and adjusted perfectly. I personally always install the detector on its first detent, and then insert a piece of rubber between detector and tab, so it's as close to the mirror as possible without any vibration. And also away from the sun heating it up. And as I mentioned, put the ring basically touching the plastic tab so detector would be as close to the mirror as possible. It looks awful with a huge gap IMO, but again, to each his own. You'll have to do several trial and error runs installing the mirror and leveling things perfectly. When I was done, took the pictures below. Just need to take one installed, which I'll do shortly. Hope this guide helps folks. It's an awesome mod, especially on this car, with no 12V power closer than the freaking center console. If you have any questions, fire away.
So I did this install. The electronics were easy, getting the mount centered was not.
A detachable plastic piece can be easily pulled off to reveal the molex connection between the car and the mirror.
Disconnect this prior to taking off the mirror. I did not tap the car side connector and instead tapped the molex on the mirror.
The mirror is held on by a single screw and then slides off the car.
Having a multimeter helps and for me white was acc power and black was ground.
In order to get to the mirror's molex you have to pull off a detachable plastic piece pictured below.
While you have the mirror off, install the mount (trust me)
Reaatched the mirror and all connections and you're done
I cannot seem to get my taps to get a good power. I understand from reading some other DIY threads on this board to have the HOT as the BLUE and the BROWN wire next to it as ground (seen in green handywork here), but I cannot seem to get a good tap.
I WAs about to get a ground on the THIRD WIRE.
I am considering just soildering them, but need to confirm. I guess I'll get another freaking multimeter. sigh.
is this right? https://imgur.com/gallery/VEXrkMc
I cannot seem to get my taps to get a good power. I understand from reading some other DIY threads on this board to have the HOT as the BLUE and the BROWN wire next to it as ground (seen in green handywork here), but I cannot seem to get a good tap.
I WAs about to get a ground on the THIRD WIRE.
I am considering just soildering them, but need to confirm. I guess I'll get another freaking multimeter. sigh.
is this right? https://imgur.com/gallery/VEXrkMc
wire confusion hard wiring radar detector
Everything you need to know is in this thread including a wiring diagram for the mirror.
I would never recommend soldering a wiring harness. I've worked on too many old harnesses with internal breaks because the solder caused a break under the insulation and made it next to impossible to find it.
08-24-16, 11:31 AM
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. The beauty of this method is zero alteration to the vehicle, and it can be reversed by just pulling the leads.
