GSJake

iTrader: (21)

My fault.. its the sprag gear..

From what I read the a650e has a weak 3rd gear sprag..

You have been a member for a little over a month.. we have a great tool for search: I put in JeffTsai and a650e...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...er-levels.html

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

ill keep you guys posted as to how the valve body install goes. i've got it in my trunk and as soon as I get free time at work ill install it. than shoot some video to compare before and after shifts. it can be heard since my car is so loud.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

I pulled my car into the shop today and began to do the valve body install. I drained out the fluid in the pan, removed the pan, removed the fluid filter than carefully and methodically removed all the three different length bolts that hold the valve body to the transmission. being very very careful with the three accumulators that fall down and even more importantly, the check ball and spring on the drivers side. Anyways, so there I'am trucking along everything looking good. Than I decided to lay my current gs430 valve body down next to the valve body I bought from a parts supplier from here on cl. than sent off to new jersey to IPT transmissions to have modified. Low and behold!!! I see a difference between the valve body that came from my car and the one that I bought and had redone that was supposed to be the exact same except for some minor calibration changes that would be resolved when it got redone at IPT anyways. So long story short I now have a fully modified valve body for a gs300 that I can't use in my car. It's nobodys fault but mine because John at IPT highly recommended I send him mine from my car but it being my daily I couldn't be down for a week while it got shipped and redone. So I opted to buy one from (vendor) and was assured it would fit my 2002 gs430. Anyways, word to whomever is listening. don't make the mistake I did and go with a gs300 valvebody for a gs400 or gs430. But!!! The day wasn't a total loss. the modified valve body also came with the three accumulators and stiffer springs. So I carefully measured them to ensure they were the same measurements. Than installed them with my original valve body from my car. added new fluid than took it for a drive. Wow>>> The car shifts really well now. And, it seems that the stiffer springs in the accumulators actually raised my shift point to 6,300 rpms when it usually shifted at 5,800 because of the lower gears in the rear end. the transmission now shifts really quick but not hard. it seems like the ideal shifts. its not hard and jarring and it doesn't chirp the tires when it shifts but it is clearly substantially better. so for the time being im gonna enjoy it. heres some pics. see if you can spot the difference.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

"Our a650e automatics are 5 speed transmissions as well. That in mind, the 4th gear is the gear we want to be in to dyno. It is exactly 1:1, which is ideal. So, follow these steps to get the most accurate dyno possible. Select manual mode and downshift as far as possible using the steering wheel buttons – you will be limited to 2nd gear. Put the car in snow mode. Power mode will make no difference on the dyno. Get the tires rolling, up to about 20 mph and upshift to 3rd using the steering wheel buttons. You should feel it shift. Slowly accelerate more to about 3000 rpm in 3rd. Shift to 4th, you should feel it shift and the decrease in RPM. Now that we are confirmed in 4th gear, slowly accelerate to 3200 rpm. The dyno operator should hit the start run button at this point. Floor it. RPM will climb – be ready though, at 4000 rpm, you will want to turn off snow mode. This is when the fun really starts. Obviously, let off when you reach the maximum RPM you wish to achieve.

Why does this work, and why snow mode? Simple – snow mode prevents downshifts except at very low RPM. Even as low as 3000 RPM. The downside to snow mode, and the reason we have to turn it off at 4000 RPM is that is also limits throttle open percentage to approximately 60%. Won’t make much power that way."

The day I went to the dyno I instructed the dyno operator to turn on snow mode to avoid the downshift. Looks like I cost myself some higher numbers. Guess I gotta go back now and do it differently and see if I can get a substantial increase in numbers. That'll be cool.

Rock-a-Lex

iTrader: (4)

Why can't you just use the E-shift (on 400's) and put it in 4th gear right away while in snow mode? Then just turn off snow mode until 4000rpm like you said.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

I don't have steering wheels shift buttons. I got that info. from a guy who has a website dedicated to is and gs performance stuff. can't remember the website though. I did confirm the snow mode issue though. It also causes the trans to shift sooner.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

I just got in my new 3.2 inch diameter six rib supercharger pulley to replace the stock 8 rib 3.6 inch factory cobra supercharger pulley. since my car makes about five psi. on a good day with the 3.6 pulley, it will now make about 8psi. with the 3.2 inch pulley. If the car starts to run lean with the higher boost, than I'm going to either crank the meth. injection flow up or install a kenne bell boost a pump. By the way, any one with actual experience with a boost a pump, please chime in with your thoughts and experiences. does it actually work? any info. appreciated. Also, I acquired the split second enricher module to trick the stock computer into enriching the fuel mixture right when boost starts building while its still in closed loop. it helps with sudden acceleration or long drawn out acceleration. And the second round valve body is currently at ipt because john lombardo was kind enough to work with me on it so I sent him back the wrong one and also sent him the correct valve body with the casting number 8939 specifically for the gs430 transmission not the gs300s'. So here pretty soon the car all around should really be rocking and rollin'.

kamlung

iTrader: (8)

looks sick!!!

clos430

iTrader: (21)

Any updates on this ?

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

well... right when I was in the middle of getting the pulley and enricher installed i discovered my rear tires worn prematurely which led me to go after suspension issues. So i found worn ball joints in the front upper arms and realized my rear camber was not positive enough. so i had to buy two new rear tires, front upper control arms, front lower ball joints and than found out rear toe links on our cars are a joke and don't adjust for ****. so now I had to buy some adjustable rear toe arms. geez... but I've also been on a hard core learning lesson about mass air flow calibrations and the importance of the inner diameter. heres the run down. our stock air box which houses the mass air flow sensor has a three inch inner diameter where the air flow travels thru which the computer uses to adjust air fuel ratio and fuel trims. back when i had the air fuel ratio gauges in and working before the supercharger, at WOT I would get 12.5 air fuel ratio. Once I installed the supercharger and fabricated a custom intake pipe that has a maf flange adapter welded on, I would get 11.1 air fuel ratio at WOT. Thats actually pretty rich and costing me power. I've seen enough dyno tuning sessions were leaning out the ratio 1 point would yield an additional 40-50 horsepower. Come to find out the intake pipe I put together actually has a inner diameter of 2.8 inches but a 3 inch outer diameter. I made the mistake of assuming that when I bought the pipe it was 3 inches inner diameter. try finding intercooler piping thats 3 inches inner diameter. NOT HAPPENING!!!!!!!! so I've currently been in the process of reinstalling my stock air box with the scoop and fabbing up an elbow that will connect it to the throttle body that goes to the supercharger. so that will put my air fuel ratio back at 12.5 when it goes into open loop and should make a crap load more power. if I need to richen it up a bit I will spray more meth. so I'm going to get that sorted out before I put the smaller pulley on. plus I still have to install the recalibrated valve body IPT redid for me. Is that an acceptable update?

clos430

iTrader: (21)

Good enough update for me, sorry I just get bored of reading all the new threads that keep popping up they just get to repetitive.

Interesting, it's hard to believe that 0.2 inches of the piping make that huge of a difference. Any idea where your fuel trims are now ?
Your running stock injectors and fuel pump correct ?

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

that is an outstanding question clos430. while cruising, my fuel trims are at -14 which means that the computer is detecting excessive fuel and pulling some out.( no engine light though) so when I go to the stock air box the fuel trims will go to 0 short term and long term. I'd be willing to put money behind that. its actually interesting how much you can manipulate your air fuel ratio with changing the inner diameter of the maf sensor housing. alot of mustang guys would tune their cars using maf sensor re calibrating. they could install larger injectors and use a larger maf housing to even out the computer readings. My supercharger build is all about simplicity. I'm trying to avoid after market computers or any tuning modules. the enricher module is very simple and actually uses dip switches. archaic technology but works exceptionally well.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

installe the smaller supercharger pulley today. butt dyno says more power. also the other day i put the stock air box back in and got my air fuel ratio to go from 11.1 at WOT to 12.2 at WOT. theres a little bit of spark knock so I had to put the next size up meth nozzle in to suppress the knock which worked. car runs good. but its only making 7 psi. not the 8 I was expecting. looks like down the road its time for an even smaller pulley to hit the 10 psi mark but ill have to use something to retard the timing and add more fuel. but It is very strong. I'm going to figure out a way to devise a supercharger manifold that is much more affordable to all of my fellow gs v8 guys can enjoy forced induction. i'd like to share this experience with ya'll.

GSJake

iTrader: (21)

Looks great~ Will you get new dyno numbers..

Did you get that tranny sorted? IF so how does the crisper shifting feel?

bloodMoney

This is awesome. I'd love to get a roots on my GS4. I'd have to get a donor engine first though.... I'd hate to drop it on to an engine with 266,xxx on it.

Off-topic: Have you replaced the rear toe arms yet? I'm staring the task down myself and am concerned that we need to drop the subframe in order to finish the job....