Heat Wrap Afe Intake Is350.
06-11-15, 07:34 AM
#4
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06-11-15, 07:36 AM
#5
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Try this stuff. http://www.mishimoto.com/heat-defens...e-tape-15.html
If it doesn't work, at least it will look pretty!
If it doesn't work, at least it will look pretty!
06-11-15, 07:52 AM
#6
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Try this stuff. http://www.mishimoto.com/heat-defens...e-tape-15.html
If it doesn't work, at least it will look pretty!
If it doesn't work, at least it will look pretty!
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06-11-15, 11:58 AM
#9
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
06-11-15, 03:32 PM
#10
I've had one of these for a while now. Bought it used, but had no grand desire to put it in ... don't ask.
Anyway, thought I'd do a bit of temperature testing vs. the stock intake. Please note that this is NOT a horsepower review. Since those all seem to be done with the hood up and a fan on, I don't know how accurate they are when you factor temperature in.
I tested temp. using a techstream cable and the techstream software. Not a great tool for monitoring while driving, though. It is SLOW to start up and do anything, and you have a cable hanging down just above the brake, so if you do try something like this, be careful. Also my laptop has a glossy screen making it difficult to read if the sun is shining anywhere close. And I need glasses for distance, but not close, so I can't read the screen well unless I take the glasses off. So beware that your attention will be divided if you try monitoring anything.
When you do something like this, there are 2 temp. sensors involved. One reads the outside temp. We are all familiar with it. You can monitor on the display everyday, if you wish. The other is built in to the MAF. When I start initial monitoring these temperatures are not the same. This morning for example, the car was parked in the garage with the hood UP for at least 16 hrs. A quick check of the intake would certainly indicate it was at ambient, and not above. However the reading was at least 6 deg. above ambient. I have done this where the temp seemed at least 10 deg. above ambient. This with the car off, so I don't think my sensor is accurate. I would peg it at about 4 deg higher than ambient. So that is what I'll do to correct readings given below. A couple of degrees one way or the other won't matter much anyway, but I do have another temp gauge, not attached to the car at all. I pulled the stock intake cover with the MAF still in there, put my external sensor next to it and had a look and the external reads about 4 degrees lower than the MAF and seems to agree with the ambient sensor in the car.
Any of the readings I give are after letting the car warm up for at least 10 min. I also made sure the temp of the coolant was above 180 deg. for a couple of minutes also. A few times I parked the car and let it sit for anywhere between 10 min. and an hour, just to let everything under the hood get nice and hot. In those situations, the MAF temp could be higher than 120 deg. for a couple of minutes worth of driving around before it started to look more reasonable.
I also did most of my testing without any of the plastic covers under the hood. But I'll start with this. Even on city highways with speeds around 50 mph (80 kph for you fellow Canadians) with that front plastic cover and the AFE, temps would be 6 or 7 (corrected) degrees above ambient. With the stock intake, they'd be closer to 3 or 4 (corrected) degrees. If I take that front plastic cover off then the two intakes ran about the same. Both 2-4 degrees above ambient. So I think that front piece of plastic that covers the radiator is a real air flow restriction. The stock is a pretty good seal on the pathway between the scoot and the air filter, so no other air under the hood will really leak in and increase temp. OTOH the AFE heat shield is not a tight seal, so if you restrict some air coming thru the scoop, you'll get leakage from the rest of the engine bay, hence a couple of degrees higher.
I did run the engine at fairly high rpms for brief periods (like 4500-5000 rpm for 30 sec. to a minute). If you do that, then intake temp will drop to nearly par with ambient. And if you buy an intake hoping for some kind of increase in performance, then higher rpms are probably where you'd like to see it. At highway speeds the stock and AFE ran pretty much the same temperature. Just cruising, 80-110 kph (50-~70 mph) the temperature would be 3-4 degrees above ambient.
City driving, or stop and go was a different matter. With the AFE in really slow traffic, or stopped I could easily see temperatures 15 deg. above ambient with peaks up around 20 deg. With stock I would see temps peak at maybe 15 deg. with typical being < 10 deg.
The stock also seemed to recover quicker when the car started moving.
I also did a bit of testing using the AFE intake but without the heat shield in place. On the highway when running high rpm, the temp was pretty close to the same as with the heat shield. Maybe a degree or two higher. Just cruising the temp. was around 3-4 degrees higher, but no more. In the city the temp could easily get to 20 deg. higher than ambient, but I didn't test this much. I think a lot of the after market intakes come without a heat shield so you may want to fashion one yourself.
A couple of important points.
First the sensors do not update really quickly, so there were times when I would briefly see corrected intake temp below ambient by a couple of degrees, but this never lasted very long. So the same might apply to the high peaks of 20+ degrees I mentioned earlier. Maybe the intake was catching up to ambient. Which begs the question, how much would ambient change by in a drive? The answer: if ambient were nominally 77 deg. I'd see temps while driving between about 75 and 79. So fairly steady.
Next, I have no idea in the MAF where the temperature sensor is actually located. I don't think it is close to the center of airflow, though, I think it is likely close to the connector. Just for the hell of it, I had a look first thing in the morning a couple of days ago. Without starting the car, I looked at the readings, then held my hand on the MAF sensor (still in the intake tube). In a couple of minutes the temperature went up 3 degrees. So I SUSPECT that some of the high readings when the car is stopped or slow are NOT representing the actual intake air temp., but reflect some of the heat under the hood raising the reading because the temp sensor in the MAF is so close to the outside of the intake tube.
Also it is worth noting that the MAF sensor on the AFE intake is further back in the engine bay and closer to the hood than it is on the stock intake. That means less airflow around it, plus some insulating value from the foam attached to the hood. That could account for some of the difference I see between the AFE and stock when the car is slow or stopped.
Other notes.
The AFE tube is plastic. Most are aluminum. If you think heat will soak through the intake tube, then plastic would be your preferred material since aluminum will transfer heat from the engine to the intake more efficiently. Personally, I think the air flow at even moderate rpm's is high enough that there will be no discernable transfer of heat from either aluminum or plastic.
Also, I mentioned I bought this used. There was no gasket for the MAF included in the AFE kit. I don't know if there should be one or not. Someone who bought it new could answer that question. Without a gasket the MAF would move around a bit and the mount point on the AFE intake is not smooth. So I worried about leaking air. I found one of the old oil filter packages which include 2 gaskets. One for the filter itself, and one that apparently is for the drain plug in the pan. That drain plug gasket fit just right around the MAF, so I used it. I didn't tighten down real hard though. But it should be sealing just fine. If I decide to use the AFE full time, I'll probably (carefully) use some gasket maker instead of the drain plug gasket.
OK, your probably sick of reading this, so I'll stop.
Anyway, thought I'd do a bit of temperature testing vs. the stock intake. Please note that this is NOT a horsepower review. Since those all seem to be done with the hood up and a fan on, I don't know how accurate they are when you factor temperature in.
I tested temp. using a techstream cable and the techstream software. Not a great tool for monitoring while driving, though. It is SLOW to start up and do anything, and you have a cable hanging down just above the brake, so if you do try something like this, be careful. Also my laptop has a glossy screen making it difficult to read if the sun is shining anywhere close. And I need glasses for distance, but not close, so I can't read the screen well unless I take the glasses off. So beware that your attention will be divided if you try monitoring anything.
When you do something like this, there are 2 temp. sensors involved. One reads the outside temp. We are all familiar with it. You can monitor on the display everyday, if you wish. The other is built in to the MAF. When I start initial monitoring these temperatures are not the same. This morning for example, the car was parked in the garage with the hood UP for at least 16 hrs. A quick check of the intake would certainly indicate it was at ambient, and not above. However the reading was at least 6 deg. above ambient. I have done this where the temp seemed at least 10 deg. above ambient. This with the car off, so I don't think my sensor is accurate. I would peg it at about 4 deg higher than ambient. So that is what I'll do to correct readings given below. A couple of degrees one way or the other won't matter much anyway, but I do have another temp gauge, not attached to the car at all. I pulled the stock intake cover with the MAF still in there, put my external sensor next to it and had a look and the external reads about 4 degrees lower than the MAF and seems to agree with the ambient sensor in the car.
Any of the readings I give are after letting the car warm up for at least 10 min. I also made sure the temp of the coolant was above 180 deg. for a couple of minutes also. A few times I parked the car and let it sit for anywhere between 10 min. and an hour, just to let everything under the hood get nice and hot. In those situations, the MAF temp could be higher than 120 deg. for a couple of minutes worth of driving around before it started to look more reasonable.
I also did most of my testing without any of the plastic covers under the hood. But I'll start with this. Even on city highways with speeds around 50 mph (80 kph for you fellow Canadians) with that front plastic cover and the AFE, temps would be 6 or 7 (corrected) degrees above ambient. With the stock intake, they'd be closer to 3 or 4 (corrected) degrees. If I take that front plastic cover off then the two intakes ran about the same. Both 2-4 degrees above ambient. So I think that front piece of plastic that covers the radiator is a real air flow restriction. The stock is a pretty good seal on the pathway between the scoot and the air filter, so no other air under the hood will really leak in and increase temp. OTOH the AFE heat shield is not a tight seal, so if you restrict some air coming thru the scoop, you'll get leakage from the rest of the engine bay, hence a couple of degrees higher.
I did run the engine at fairly high rpms for brief periods (like 4500-5000 rpm for 30 sec. to a minute). If you do that, then intake temp will drop to nearly par with ambient. And if you buy an intake hoping for some kind of increase in performance, then higher rpms are probably where you'd like to see it. At highway speeds the stock and AFE ran pretty much the same temperature. Just cruising, 80-110 kph (50-~70 mph) the temperature would be 3-4 degrees above ambient.
City driving, or stop and go was a different matter. With the AFE in really slow traffic, or stopped I could easily see temperatures 15 deg. above ambient with peaks up around 20 deg. With stock I would see temps peak at maybe 15 deg. with typical being < 10 deg.
The stock also seemed to recover quicker when the car started moving.
I also did a bit of testing using the AFE intake but without the heat shield in place. On the highway when running high rpm, the temp was pretty close to the same as with the heat shield. Maybe a degree or two higher. Just cruising the temp. was around 3-4 degrees higher, but no more. In the city the temp could easily get to 20 deg. higher than ambient, but I didn't test this much. I think a lot of the after market intakes come without a heat shield so you may want to fashion one yourself.
A couple of important points.
First the sensors do not update really quickly, so there were times when I would briefly see corrected intake temp below ambient by a couple of degrees, but this never lasted very long. So the same might apply to the high peaks of 20+ degrees I mentioned earlier. Maybe the intake was catching up to ambient. Which begs the question, how much would ambient change by in a drive? The answer: if ambient were nominally 77 deg. I'd see temps while driving between about 75 and 79. So fairly steady.
Next, I have no idea in the MAF where the temperature sensor is actually located. I don't think it is close to the center of airflow, though, I think it is likely close to the connector. Just for the hell of it, I had a look first thing in the morning a couple of days ago. Without starting the car, I looked at the readings, then held my hand on the MAF sensor (still in the intake tube). In a couple of minutes the temperature went up 3 degrees. So I SUSPECT that some of the high readings when the car is stopped or slow are NOT representing the actual intake air temp., but reflect some of the heat under the hood raising the reading because the temp sensor in the MAF is so close to the outside of the intake tube.
Also it is worth noting that the MAF sensor on the AFE intake is further back in the engine bay and closer to the hood than it is on the stock intake. That means less airflow around it, plus some insulating value from the foam attached to the hood. That could account for some of the difference I see between the AFE and stock when the car is slow or stopped.
Other notes.
The AFE tube is plastic. Most are aluminum. If you think heat will soak through the intake tube, then plastic would be your preferred material since aluminum will transfer heat from the engine to the intake more efficiently. Personally, I think the air flow at even moderate rpm's is high enough that there will be no discernable transfer of heat from either aluminum or plastic.
Also, I mentioned I bought this used. There was no gasket for the MAF included in the AFE kit. I don't know if there should be one or not. Someone who bought it new could answer that question. Without a gasket the MAF would move around a bit and the mount point on the AFE intake is not smooth. So I worried about leaking air. I found one of the old oil filter packages which include 2 gaskets. One for the filter itself, and one that apparently is for the drain plug in the pan. That drain plug gasket fit just right around the MAF, so I used it. I didn't tighten down real hard though. But it should be sealing just fine. If I decide to use the AFE full time, I'll probably (carefully) use some gasket maker instead of the drain plug gasket.
OK, your probably sick of reading this, so I'll stop.
06-11-15, 04:51 PM
#11
Another couple of points, if your not bored yet 
I don't think there is much to be gained by wrapping your intake, but if you want to do it, here is one persons experience with a bit of testing. In his case the testing was seeing if the materials burned, which the didn't.
He uses reflectix. You can buy a 25' x 4" roll of that for less than $10. I don't see that high temp duct tape at homedepot.ca, but I do have some real duct tape here. Not the stuff called duct tape, but the aluminum foil with a sticky backing on it. The stuff tears easily and may NOT be suitable for a car, but I just held my 1200 deg. heat gun to it for 90 seconds and it held to the hunk of metal I had it taped to, which was actually from a duct. It didn't shrink and still seemed to stick well. So at least that could work, if it doesn't tear. And it isn't very expensive.
Another thing about HP. I'm not saying the will or won't increase HP, but if I'm right and the temperature increase over ambient is minimal at moderate to high rpm, then testing HP with the hood open and a fan cooling things off shouldn't invalidate the test. At least not because of temperature.
I don't think there is much to be gained by wrapping your intake, but if you want to do it, here is one persons experience with a bit of testing. In his case the testing was seeing if the materials burned, which the didn't.
He uses reflectix. You can buy a 25' x 4" roll of that for less than $10. I don't see that high temp duct tape at homedepot.ca, but I do have some real duct tape here. Not the stuff called duct tape, but the aluminum foil with a sticky backing on it. The stuff tears easily and may NOT be suitable for a car, but I just held my 1200 deg. heat gun to it for 90 seconds and it held to the hunk of metal I had it taped to, which was actually from a duct.
It didn't shrink and still seemed to stick well. So at least that could work, if it doesn't tear. And it isn't very expensive.Another thing about HP. I'm not saying the will or won't increase HP, but if I'm right and the temperature increase over ambient is minimal at moderate to high rpm, then testing HP with the hood open and a fan cooling things off shouldn't invalidate the test. At least not because of temperature.
06-15-15, 10:06 AM
#15
What if you ceramic coat the intake tube. Like what they do to the PPE Headers to trap heat inside. After use you can tell that the heat from the header is not as bad as a header without that coating.. Maybe this would help in keeping the temp inside the intake tube low. Just a thinking out loud..