L0ngJ0hn

I overlaid the graphs. You can see that its just barely making a couple hp throughout.
Also, I don't see that mid range gap as a gain because other is350 dynos don't have that drop to begin with. I think something fishy was going on with the car that day for it to have dropped in the middle like that. All the other graphs have a smooth rise in power all the way through.
Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison.

skyshadow

^smh -_-
I controlled the HELL out of this comparison test so there wouldn't be crazy conjecture and you guys are still throwing out "what ifs". Brett did not change his dyno calibration between before and after. I did not change ANYTHING on my car between before and after. What kind of "fishy" thing transfers over 3 dyno runs? You guys said originally that my numbers were too low "because Bob Smukatelly's dyno pull was 276hp" so of course "you're car is broken". Now you are saying magical "fishiness" happened. If I did not fix or change my car in between, why isn't the "fishiness" on both tests?

Here is my thinking, The hell with what the numbers are/were/should be. The system said it changing AFR, right? AFR changed, right? If AFR stays changed after 1000 miles then the system works...right?

NVMarkus

iTrader: (2)

Skyshadow so I see your complaint, he was saying that the drop in the middle of the power and is weird... It shouldn't do that, the other pull you had didn't have that....
My question for you though is, do you think this is worth the $750 dollars they want to charge for this? It looks like you got close to 6hp if I remembered correctly. Do you feel like the car had more power accessible to you?

And thank you again for doing all this work

skyshadow

^ This is a question I've been fighting with in my head. With our cars having so few power adder options, I am for getting every pony I can get. Thinking back and considering, A joe-z exhaust is near, if not more, money and nets roughly the same power. But PPE headers are the same amount and they net 3x's as much power. Thing is, I'll own all those parts so one part on top that gets me more power is a want. I am lucky enough to have to money to spend so i did. If I wanted the most bang for my buck, I would get nitrous (which I am). I like the idea that the "locked" ECU has been fooled for the first time and the idea that the system is tunable.
I totally understand being highly critical of a $700 investment. My original purpose of this thread was to try and get rid of the mystery of the box. Either figure out if it's a joke or the real deal. I will not make any claims of it's authenticy, I wanted the numbers to do the talking. I guess it's worth is what you make of it.

NVMarkus

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much! I am considering as in the 3rd gen stuff Stillen is talking about a SC and I would consider that as well. Thank you again for all the information! It is appreciated

heyarms

iTrader: (5)

What...? It's not the first time snake oil has been sold for the car... Sorry to hear you wasted money for 6whp that will likely turn to 0whp over time/mileage. I would request a refund from the company.

skyshadow

^ It's short sighted stuff like this that really makes me feel like good about taking the time to do this test. -_-
Snake oil is a bit much, dont you think? The AFR changes held after 200+ miles. You naysayers said it would change back at 100. Now the naysayers are saying 1000. I have a feeling that when I throw away another $60 to dyno pull at 1000mi, You'll just change it to 100,000.
Let's say it does change back at 1000mi, Then you can call it "snake oil" I guess. But I will still be able to hand my vehicle over to one of my techs every 1000 miles and have my ECU cleared back to stock. Then, I have my "measily" 6hp again (and the mid range torque that naysayers dont want to talk about). Understand that isnt ideal for everyone, But it's my back up plan. So I can live with this mod and the power it gives me.
Good news here is you'll be behind my 6hp higher car, naysaying.. Well everyone except you cause you're boosted. :/

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^I'm curious if your tuner or someone will actually work on adjusting the pre-set RRM tune on the box. Still think with some adjustments, additional WHP can be easily found.

skyshadow

I would love to try and have it tuned out further. Would probably attempt that after all mods are installed. But kind of a big if, Not looking forward to paying someone $250 to try. But, we'll see.

L0ngJ0hn

I was just trying to help. Don't get upset dude.
Like NVMarcus said. I was just saying the drop in the middle is not there on other dyno's I've seen.
Peace

skyshadow

I'm curious, If I unplug the piggy back, How long will it take to go back to normal? I ask because I could try a unplug and do another set of pulls to try and get a better look at the power curve.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Unplug the piggy and disconnect the battery for 20 minutes. Your car is officially back to factory settings.

buister

iTrader: (1)

Skyshadow, thanks for testing this device and post the results. Don't listen to the naysayers. They don't understand the difference between open-loop and closed-loop. This device alters the A/F ratio in open-loop only. In this mode, the car relies completely in a look-up map that is stored in the car's ECU. It has nothing to do with the oxygen sensor. Whenever the car accelerates, it is running open-loop. That's when this device makes a difference. It simply subtracts the fuel injection voltage that is sent from the ECU to increase the A/F ratio as you saw on the dyno graph. So what I'm trying to say is when you dyno it again in 1000 miles, the AF graph should not change (or go back to stock). Also don't be bothered by the mere 6hp. Based on the before and after dyno you got, I bet that your 1/4-mile time is improved by possibly 1/2 sec. The increased area under the curve is what matters.

juanmedina

1/2 sec is too much of a gain, I think. Usually a gain of 10hp gets you 0.1 sec in the 1/4 of mile.

I did a similar test with my IS-F but I put some E85 to lean out the car a little. Obviously my car will eventually compensate for the E85.

If you want to datalog your AFR's you can use the TorquePro App

TsunamiF

You lost all credibility after that statement.