GOING TURBO! 450-500 HP range. 10k to spend! Suggestions??
03-26-15, 08:27 AM
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GOING TURBO! 450-500 HP range. 10k to spend! Suggestions??
I have an 2002 5-speed IS300 and I want to FINALLY build it. I've got about 10k to spend and have been doing a ton of research lately. I would like to be in the 450-500ish HP range. Just looking for suggestions on the setup...
04-07-15, 08:47 PM
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Build motor to hold 400hp+
swap in tranny to hold more than 350hp+( that stock 5spd won't hold more than 350whp...POP goes 4th gear)
turbo kit to make 400hp++
It's going to end up being more than $10k. But let the nay sayers piece out a total kit for you that will reliably hold 400rwhp.
04-09-15, 02:06 PM
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Looks like you got a good budget, 10k can definitely get you to your power goals if you're able to get some good deals. Be prepared to spend a little more if things go wrong though.
I'll tell you right now that your stock w55 transmission isn't going to hold the power. You can either upgrade to a r154 or if you got about 4k to spluge on the transmission, swap in a v160/161 with the rear differential from a mk4 supra or 1st and 2nd gear will be so short that its useless. You could run the w55 transmission but with your power goals it won't last long especially if you're driving it hard.
Engine wise you got two options, piece together a turbo kit, and build your GE to hold the power or do a full 2JZ-GTE swap. Depending on your goals you can decide for yourself which route you want to go with.
If you go the GE route, you could get around 400hp out of it by getting a thicker headgasket, and ARP headstuds. This will be pushing the limits on the stock GE bottom end so make sure you have a healthy engine with good compression all across the board. Toyota skimped out on the VVT-I 2JZ-GE engine so the internals aren't as strong as the non VVT-i 2JZ-GE or the 2JZ-GTE engines.
For the turbo kit itself here's a list of things you will need
-turbocharger
-turbo manifold
-downpipe
-midpipe
-wastegate
-front mount intercooler
-intercooler piping
-blow off valve
-various sized vacuum lines
-oil feed/return lines
-fuel return
-fuel pump
-bigger injectors
-colder spark plugs
-engine management
-thicker headgasket
-ARP headstuds
If you decide to go with a 2JZ-GTE swap and decide to keep the factory twin turbos just do the TTC mod and you don't have to worry about everything listed above. However buying a used engine can be risky because you don't know the history so you could end up with a engine in worst condition than yours. If you do find a good motor with good compression and hasn't been abused just do some simple maintenance and you could come out on top and have a solid bottom end good for about 800hp. Also you get the front facing intake manifold right off the bat
If you plan to do a GTE swap, you're going to want a 2JZ-GTE VVT-i engine from a Aristo. This motor will drop right in, it has the right motor mount locations and the right oil pan. A 2JZ-GTE from a supra will not work since it has a different oilpan. Non VVT-i motors will also not work because the motor mounts line up differently.
Also depending on what you do for engine management you'll want to swap over your wiring harness from your GE motor to the GTE motor. All of the plugs on the GE will be used, but there will be some unused plugs on the GTE since the IS300 ECU doesn't control the turbo sensors on the GTE motor.
This is what you need if you plan to do a GTE swap and keep the factory twins.
-timing belt kit
-water pump
-gasket kit
-front mount intercooler
-intercooler piping
-downpipe
-midpipe
-fuel pump
-engine management
The GTE engine already has the bov and wastegate built in, and the engine comes stock with 440cc injectors which should be good for about 400hp. If you plan on having more hp, plan on bigger injectors and make sure your fuel pump can keep up. The following guide isn't applicable to all engines, but it just happens to work out on the 2jz engines. For your injectors, its known that 1cc is equal to 1rwhp so for example 440cc injectors could support up to about 440rwhp.
Now if you plan to be like the supra guys with a single turbo setup, you will basically need almost everything required for the GE turbo kit since you're basically deleting the stock twins and replacing it with one big turbo. For this you will need the following parts in addition to list for the GTE swap with TTC mod.
-turbocharger
-turbo manifold
-wastegate
-intercooler piping
-blow off valve
-oil feed/return lines
If you're planning to build a high hp monster, technically you could build up either engine. Some guys tend to build the GE motor because it doesn't have the oil squirters which can fail at high hp levels anyways. You could go down this route and put forged internals, or GTE internals and the bottom end will be just as strong as the GTE engine. Regardless of which engine you have all of the 2JZ crankshafts are the same, only the rods and pistons are different.
Cost wise if you plan on single turbo with high horsepower it might just be worth it to build the GE engine instead of swapping the GTE. You can spend the money on the single turbo kit and just pay to have your bottom end rebuilt with stronger internals. This way you have a fresh engine and don't have to worry about some unknown engine from Japan with a shady history.
As for engine management this is also your choice. Personally I would just ask around some local shops and see what they're comfortable with tuning. This is a list of popular engine management units alot of IS300 guys like to use.
Piggybacks
-Greddy E-Manage Ultimate (will work on both manual/auto cars)
-AEM FIC (would not recommend on automatic cars)
Standalone
-AEM EMS V2
-AEM Infinity
-ProEFI 48
-ProEFI 128
-Megasquirt 3
-Haltech Sprint 500
-Haltech F10X
The difference between the two types of engine managements units I listed above is that the piggyback just alters the stock ecu signals. So when you're tuning you're starting with the stock ECU's basemap and you're just altering signals. The downside to this is that the stock ECU is very picky and can screw up the tune if it's not dialed in correctly. Also there's alot involved to make it run properly because you have to keep the stock ecu happy.
The standalone, like it's name says is a full blown standalone computer separate from the stock ECU. It controls the injectors, ignition and timing independently from the stock ECU. Although the standalone is controlling everything on the engine, people typically wire it in parallel with the stock ECU so they can still keep their OEM functions such as gauge clusters, a/c, door switches, windows, etc.
There's alot more information in the go faster section on my.is but I hope the information I provided at least helped you decide with which route to go with
I'll tell you right now that your stock w55 transmission isn't going to hold the power. You can either upgrade to a r154 or if you got about 4k to spluge on the transmission, swap in a v160/161 with the rear differential from a mk4 supra or 1st and 2nd gear will be so short that its useless. You could run the w55 transmission but with your power goals it won't last long especially if you're driving it hard.
Engine wise you got two options, piece together a turbo kit, and build your GE to hold the power or do a full 2JZ-GTE swap. Depending on your goals you can decide for yourself which route you want to go with.
If you go the GE route, you could get around 400hp out of it by getting a thicker headgasket, and ARP headstuds. This will be pushing the limits on the stock GE bottom end so make sure you have a healthy engine with good compression all across the board. Toyota skimped out on the VVT-I 2JZ-GE engine so the internals aren't as strong as the non VVT-i 2JZ-GE or the 2JZ-GTE engines.
For the turbo kit itself here's a list of things you will need
-turbocharger
-turbo manifold
-downpipe
-midpipe
-wastegate
-front mount intercooler
-intercooler piping
-blow off valve
-various sized vacuum lines
-oil feed/return lines
-fuel return
-fuel pump
-bigger injectors
-colder spark plugs
-engine management
-thicker headgasket
-ARP headstuds
If you decide to go with a 2JZ-GTE swap and decide to keep the factory twin turbos just do the TTC mod and you don't have to worry about everything listed above. However buying a used engine can be risky because you don't know the history so you could end up with a engine in worst condition than yours. If you do find a good motor with good compression and hasn't been abused just do some simple maintenance and you could come out on top and have a solid bottom end good for about 800hp. Also you get the front facing intake manifold right off the bat
If you plan to do a GTE swap, you're going to want a 2JZ-GTE VVT-i engine from a Aristo. This motor will drop right in, it has the right motor mount locations and the right oil pan. A 2JZ-GTE from a supra will not work since it has a different oilpan. Non VVT-i motors will also not work because the motor mounts line up differently.
Also depending on what you do for engine management you'll want to swap over your wiring harness from your GE motor to the GTE motor. All of the plugs on the GE will be used, but there will be some unused plugs on the GTE since the IS300 ECU doesn't control the turbo sensors on the GTE motor.
This is what you need if you plan to do a GTE swap and keep the factory twins.
-timing belt kit
-water pump
-gasket kit
-front mount intercooler
-intercooler piping
-downpipe
-midpipe
-fuel pump
-engine management
The GTE engine already has the bov and wastegate built in, and the engine comes stock with 440cc injectors which should be good for about 400hp. If you plan on having more hp, plan on bigger injectors and make sure your fuel pump can keep up. The following guide isn't applicable to all engines, but it just happens to work out on the 2jz engines. For your injectors, its known that 1cc is equal to 1rwhp so for example 440cc injectors could support up to about 440rwhp.
Now if you plan to be like the supra guys with a single turbo setup, you will basically need almost everything required for the GE turbo kit since you're basically deleting the stock twins and replacing it with one big turbo. For this you will need the following parts in addition to list for the GTE swap with TTC mod.
-turbocharger
-turbo manifold
-wastegate
-intercooler piping
-blow off valve
-oil feed/return lines
If you're planning to build a high hp monster, technically you could build up either engine. Some guys tend to build the GE motor because it doesn't have the oil squirters which can fail at high hp levels anyways. You could go down this route and put forged internals, or GTE internals and the bottom end will be just as strong as the GTE engine. Regardless of which engine you have all of the 2JZ crankshafts are the same, only the rods and pistons are different.
Cost wise if you plan on single turbo with high horsepower it might just be worth it to build the GE engine instead of swapping the GTE. You can spend the money on the single turbo kit and just pay to have your bottom end rebuilt with stronger internals. This way you have a fresh engine and don't have to worry about some unknown engine from Japan with a shady history.
As for engine management this is also your choice. Personally I would just ask around some local shops and see what they're comfortable with tuning. This is a list of popular engine management units alot of IS300 guys like to use.
Piggybacks
-Greddy E-Manage Ultimate (will work on both manual/auto cars)
-AEM FIC (would not recommend on automatic cars)
Standalone
-AEM EMS V2
-AEM Infinity
-ProEFI 48
-ProEFI 128
-Megasquirt 3
-Haltech Sprint 500
-Haltech F10X
The difference between the two types of engine managements units I listed above is that the piggyback just alters the stock ecu signals. So when you're tuning you're starting with the stock ECU's basemap and you're just altering signals. The downside to this is that the stock ECU is very picky and can screw up the tune if it's not dialed in correctly. Also there's alot involved to make it run properly because you have to keep the stock ecu happy.
The standalone, like it's name says is a full blown standalone computer separate from the stock ECU. It controls the injectors, ignition and timing independently from the stock ECU. Although the standalone is controlling everything on the engine, people typically wire it in parallel with the stock ECU so they can still keep their OEM functions such as gauge clusters, a/c, door switches, windows, etc.
There's alot more information in the go faster section on my.is but I hope the information I provided at least helped you decide with which route to go with
04-10-15, 05:18 PM
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@blkaltezza: Thanks for all the input! I'm new to turbos but have spent a lot of time doing my research. I'm gonna put GTE pistons and rods in my GE. Looks like I'm gonna do some more digging into my setup and possibly piece together my kit...
04-14-15, 10:57 AM
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Good to hear! If you don't feel like piecing together your own setup you could always buy a kit. There's plenty of kits to choose from. Here's a list I posted in another thread a while back.
There's also some discontinued kits such as the Toyomoto or TurboEast kits, but you might be able to find them used from time to time 
If you did a simple search you would have been able to find everything you needed. I'll be nice this time and give you some info.
In my opinion the best kit available for the IS300 is the Swift Racing turbo kit. It comes with everything you need for a complete install, but it's not cheap. However they do have a group buy going on right now, and I actually plan to place a order for it in a week or two.
http://www.swiftracing.com/srt/item....=175&u=1000175
Another good option is a PowerDynamix kit which is actually JeffTsai's shop. He's here on the forums and really knows what he's doing. While the kit isn't visually appealing like the SRT kit, it is a high quality kit and uses name brand parts. He also has different "stages" depending on your power goals.
http://powerdynamix.com/upgrades
Another option that was just recently released is the cxracing turbo kit. It doesn't require you to relocate the ABS and it's pretty cheap but it's not a complete kit. You will need some sort of engine management, don't even try boosting your engine on the factory ecu unless you want a blown engine. You will also need some type of fuel system, upgraded fuel pump and bigger injectors at the very least.
http://www.tokensolutions.net/cxraci...300-turbo-kit/
Some others also had good luck with the Boost Logic kit but honestly, all the IS300s I seen with them were from years ago. I'm not even sure where you can purchase a Boost Logic kit right now. The only place I seen it for sale is on the suprastore, but they have a bad rep and I wouldn't order from them.
http://www.suprastore.com/boloistukit.html
You also have a option of running the XS Power kit, but again it's not a complete kit and it's a cheap ebay kit so some of the components might fail.
Toyota SC300 Supra Lexus GS300 IS300 soarer Turbo Kit 2jz GE or GTE | eBay
I have also seen some people run the driftmotion kits, but it looks like it only includes the turbo manifold, wastegate and turbo. You'll need to buy everything else separately, such as intercooler, fuel system, engine management, etc.
http://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm1361.htm
Another good option is the Dave H turbo kits, but I personally don't like them because it utilizes a log manifold.
http://www.boostwerx.com/turbo_kits.html
Your final and cheapest option is to piece together your own kit. You can find great deals on used parts, but it'll take a while to search for them. Here's a general breakdown of what you'll need if you plan to go on this route.
2JZ-GE Turbo manifold
Turbo
Oil feed lines and fittings
Downpipe
Intercooler
Intercooler piping
Wastegate
Blow Off Valve
Engine Management
Thicker headgasket
ARP head studs
Injectors
Fuel return
Fuel Pump
Wideband
Boost gauge
I hope that helped a little, or at least get you started in the right direction
In my opinion the best kit available for the IS300 is the Swift Racing turbo kit. It comes with everything you need for a complete install, but it's not cheap. However they do have a group buy going on right now, and I actually plan to place a order for it in a week or two.
http://www.swiftracing.com/srt/item....=175&u=1000175
Another good option is a PowerDynamix kit which is actually JeffTsai's shop. He's here on the forums and really knows what he's doing. While the kit isn't visually appealing like the SRT kit, it is a high quality kit and uses name brand parts. He also has different "stages" depending on your power goals.
http://powerdynamix.com/upgrades
Another option that was just recently released is the cxracing turbo kit. It doesn't require you to relocate the ABS and it's pretty cheap but it's not a complete kit. You will need some sort of engine management, don't even try boosting your engine on the factory ecu unless you want a blown engine. You will also need some type of fuel system, upgraded fuel pump and bigger injectors at the very least.
http://www.tokensolutions.net/cxraci...300-turbo-kit/
Some others also had good luck with the Boost Logic kit but honestly, all the IS300s I seen with them were from years ago. I'm not even sure where you can purchase a Boost Logic kit right now. The only place I seen it for sale is on the suprastore, but they have a bad rep and I wouldn't order from them.
http://www.suprastore.com/boloistukit.html
You also have a option of running the XS Power kit, but again it's not a complete kit and it's a cheap ebay kit so some of the components might fail.
Toyota SC300 Supra Lexus GS300 IS300 soarer Turbo Kit 2jz GE or GTE | eBay
I have also seen some people run the driftmotion kits, but it looks like it only includes the turbo manifold, wastegate and turbo. You'll need to buy everything else separately, such as intercooler, fuel system, engine management, etc.
http://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm1361.htm
Another good option is the Dave H turbo kits, but I personally don't like them because it utilizes a log manifold.
http://www.boostwerx.com/turbo_kits.html
Your final and cheapest option is to piece together your own kit. You can find great deals on used parts, but it'll take a while to search for them. Here's a general breakdown of what you'll need if you plan to go on this route.
2JZ-GE Turbo manifold
Turbo
Oil feed lines and fittings
Downpipe
Intercooler
Intercooler piping
Wastegate
Blow Off Valve
Engine Management
Thicker headgasket
ARP head studs
Injectors
Fuel return
Fuel Pump
Wideband
Boost gauge
I hope that helped a little, or at least get you started in the right direction
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12-10-15, 02:21 PM
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Wow !
Looks like you got a good budget, 10k can definitely get you to your power goals if you're able to get some good deals. Be prepared to spend a little more if things go wrong though.
I'll tell you right now that your stock w55 transmission isn't going to hold the power. You can either upgrade to a r154 or if you got about 4k to spluge on the transmission, swap in a v160/161 with the rear differential from a mk4 supra or 1st and 2nd gear will be so short that its useless. You could run the w55 transmission but with your power goals it won't last long especially if you're driving it hard.
Engine wise you got two options, piece together a turbo kit, and build your GE to hold the power or do a full 2JZ-GTE swap. Depending on your goals you can decide for yourself which route you want to go with.
If you go the GE route, you could get around 400hp out of it by getting a thicker headgasket, and ARP headstuds. This will be pushing the limits on the stock GE bottom end so make sure you have a healthy engine with good compression all across the board. Toyota skimped out on the VVT-I 2JZ-GE engine so the internals aren't as strong as the non VVT-i 2JZ-GE or the 2JZ-GTE engines.
For the turbo kit itself here's a list of things you will need
-turbocharger
-turbo manifold
-downpipe
-midpipe
-wastegate
-front mount intercooler
-intercooler piping
-blow off valve
-various sized vacuum lines
-oil feed/return lines
-fuel return
-fuel pump
-bigger injectors
-colder spark plugs
-engine management
-thicker headgasket
-ARP headstuds
If you decide to go with a 2JZ-GTE swap and decide to keep the factory twin turbos just do the TTC mod and you don't have to worry about everything listed above. However buying a used engine can be risky because you don't know the history so you could end up with a engine in worst condition than yours. If you do find a good motor with good compression and hasn't been abused just do some simple maintenance and you could come out on top and have a solid bottom end good for about 800hp. Also you get the front facing intake manifold right off the bat
If you plan to do a GTE swap, you're going to want a 2JZ-GTE VVT-i engine from a Aristo. This motor will drop right in, it has the right motor mount locations and the right oil pan. A 2JZ-GTE from a supra will not work since it has a different oilpan. Non VVT-i motors will also not work because the motor mounts line up differently.
Also depending on what you do for engine management you'll want to swap over your wiring harness from your GE motor to the GTE motor. All of the plugs on the GE will be used, but there will be some unused plugs on the GTE since the IS300 ECU doesn't control the turbo sensors on the GTE motor.
This is what you need if you plan to do a GTE swap and keep the factory twins.
-timing belt kit
-water pump
-gasket kit
-front mount intercooler
-intercooler piping
-downpipe
-midpipe
-fuel pump
-engine management
The GTE engine already has the bov and wastegate built in, and the engine comes stock with 440cc injectors which should be good for about 400hp. If you plan on having more hp, plan on bigger injectors and make sure your fuel pump can keep up. The following guide isn't applicable to all engines, but it just happens to work out on the 2jz engines. For your injectors, its known that 1cc is equal to 1rwhp so for example 440cc injectors could support up to about 440rwhp.
Now if you plan to be like the supra guys with a single turbo setup, you will basically need almost everything required for the GE turbo kit since you're basically deleting the stock twins and replacing it with one big turbo. For this you will need the following parts in addition to list for the GTE swap with TTC mod.
-turbocharger
-turbo manifold
-wastegate
-intercooler piping
-blow off valve
-oil feed/return lines
If you're planning to build a high hp monster, technically you could build up either engine. Some guys tend to build the GE motor because it doesn't have the oil squirters which can fail at high hp levels anyways. You could go down this route and put forged internals, or GTE internals and the bottom end will be just as strong as the GTE engine. Regardless of which engine you have all of the 2JZ crankshafts are the same, only the rods and pistons are different.
Cost wise if you plan on single turbo with high horsepower it might just be worth it to build the GE engine instead of swapping the GTE. You can spend the money on the single turbo kit and just pay to have your bottom end rebuilt with stronger internals. This way you have a fresh engine and don't have to worry about some unknown engine from Japan with a shady history.
As for engine management this is also your choice. Personally I would just ask around some local shops and see what they're comfortable with tuning. This is a list of popular engine management units alot of IS300 guys like to use.
Piggybacks
-Greddy E-Manage Ultimate (will work on both manual/auto cars)
-AEM FIC (would not recommend on automatic cars)
Standalone
-AEM EMS V2
-AEM Infinity
-ProEFI 48
-ProEFI 128
-Megasquirt 3
-Haltech Sprint 500
-Haltech F10X
The difference between the two types of engine managements units I listed above is that the piggyback just alters the stock ecu signals. So when you're tuning you're starting with the stock ECU's basemap and you're just altering signals. The downside to this is that the stock ECU is very picky and can screw up the tune if it's not dialed in correctly. Also there's alot involved to make it run properly because you have to keep the stock ecu happy.
The standalone, like it's name says is a full blown standalone computer separate from the stock ECU. It controls the injectors, ignition and timing independently from the stock ECU. Although the standalone is controlling everything on the engine, people typically wire it in parallel with the stock ECU so they can still keep their OEM functions such as gauge clusters, a/c, door switches, windows, etc.
There's alot more information in the go faster section on my.is but I hope the information I provided at least helped you decide with which route to go with
I'll tell you right now that your stock w55 transmission isn't going to hold the power. You can either upgrade to a r154 or if you got about 4k to spluge on the transmission, swap in a v160/161 with the rear differential from a mk4 supra or 1st and 2nd gear will be so short that its useless. You could run the w55 transmission but with your power goals it won't last long especially if you're driving it hard.
Engine wise you got two options, piece together a turbo kit, and build your GE to hold the power or do a full 2JZ-GTE swap. Depending on your goals you can decide for yourself which route you want to go with.
If you go the GE route, you could get around 400hp out of it by getting a thicker headgasket, and ARP headstuds. This will be pushing the limits on the stock GE bottom end so make sure you have a healthy engine with good compression all across the board. Toyota skimped out on the VVT-I 2JZ-GE engine so the internals aren't as strong as the non VVT-i 2JZ-GE or the 2JZ-GTE engines.
For the turbo kit itself here's a list of things you will need
-turbocharger
-turbo manifold
-downpipe
-midpipe
-wastegate
-front mount intercooler
-intercooler piping
-blow off valve
-various sized vacuum lines
-oil feed/return lines
-fuel return
-fuel pump
-bigger injectors
-colder spark plugs
-engine management
-thicker headgasket
-ARP headstuds
If you decide to go with a 2JZ-GTE swap and decide to keep the factory twin turbos just do the TTC mod and you don't have to worry about everything listed above. However buying a used engine can be risky because you don't know the history so you could end up with a engine in worst condition than yours. If you do find a good motor with good compression and hasn't been abused just do some simple maintenance and you could come out on top and have a solid bottom end good for about 800hp. Also you get the front facing intake manifold right off the bat
If you plan to do a GTE swap, you're going to want a 2JZ-GTE VVT-i engine from a Aristo. This motor will drop right in, it has the right motor mount locations and the right oil pan. A 2JZ-GTE from a supra will not work since it has a different oilpan. Non VVT-i motors will also not work because the motor mounts line up differently.
Also depending on what you do for engine management you'll want to swap over your wiring harness from your GE motor to the GTE motor. All of the plugs on the GE will be used, but there will be some unused plugs on the GTE since the IS300 ECU doesn't control the turbo sensors on the GTE motor.
This is what you need if you plan to do a GTE swap and keep the factory twins.
-timing belt kit
-water pump
-gasket kit
-front mount intercooler
-intercooler piping
-downpipe
-midpipe
-fuel pump
-engine management
The GTE engine already has the bov and wastegate built in, and the engine comes stock with 440cc injectors which should be good for about 400hp. If you plan on having more hp, plan on bigger injectors and make sure your fuel pump can keep up. The following guide isn't applicable to all engines, but it just happens to work out on the 2jz engines. For your injectors, its known that 1cc is equal to 1rwhp so for example 440cc injectors could support up to about 440rwhp.
Now if you plan to be like the supra guys with a single turbo setup, you will basically need almost everything required for the GE turbo kit since you're basically deleting the stock twins and replacing it with one big turbo. For this you will need the following parts in addition to list for the GTE swap with TTC mod.
-turbocharger
-turbo manifold
-wastegate
-intercooler piping
-blow off valve
-oil feed/return lines
If you're planning to build a high hp monster, technically you could build up either engine. Some guys tend to build the GE motor because it doesn't have the oil squirters which can fail at high hp levels anyways. You could go down this route and put forged internals, or GTE internals and the bottom end will be just as strong as the GTE engine. Regardless of which engine you have all of the 2JZ crankshafts are the same, only the rods and pistons are different.
Cost wise if you plan on single turbo with high horsepower it might just be worth it to build the GE engine instead of swapping the GTE. You can spend the money on the single turbo kit and just pay to have your bottom end rebuilt with stronger internals. This way you have a fresh engine and don't have to worry about some unknown engine from Japan with a shady history.
As for engine management this is also your choice. Personally I would just ask around some local shops and see what they're comfortable with tuning. This is a list of popular engine management units alot of IS300 guys like to use.
Piggybacks
-Greddy E-Manage Ultimate (will work on both manual/auto cars)
-AEM FIC (would not recommend on automatic cars)
Standalone
-AEM EMS V2
-AEM Infinity
-ProEFI 48
-ProEFI 128
-Megasquirt 3
-Haltech Sprint 500
-Haltech F10X
The difference between the two types of engine managements units I listed above is that the piggyback just alters the stock ecu signals. So when you're tuning you're starting with the stock ECU's basemap and you're just altering signals. The downside to this is that the stock ECU is very picky and can screw up the tune if it's not dialed in correctly. Also there's alot involved to make it run properly because you have to keep the stock ecu happy.
The standalone, like it's name says is a full blown standalone computer separate from the stock ECU. It controls the injectors, ignition and timing independently from the stock ECU. Although the standalone is controlling everything on the engine, people typically wire it in parallel with the stock ECU so they can still keep their OEM functions such as gauge clusters, a/c, door switches, windows, etc.
There's alot more information in the go faster section on my.is but I hope the information I provided at least helped you decide with which route to go with
12-16-15, 02:00 PM
#11
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When I referred to GTE internals, I was just talking about the pistons and connecting rods from a 2jz-gte engine. There are two 2jz-gte engines out there, the vvt-i and non vvt-i. Both of these engines have a 8:1 compression ratio and the internals are exactly the same. If you want to keep your compression 10:1 you could get the internals from a non vvt-i 2jz-ge engine. All three of these engines use the same connecting rods, and the only difference is the GTE pistons have a 8:1 compression and recesses on the bottom for oil squirters. However if you're putting them in a GE engine, the oil squirters won't be used anyways. Also to note, most of the compression drop is due to a thicker headgasket on the GTE engine. All of the 2jz engines have the same crankshaft so the rotating assembly is all interchangeable.
If you want to go aftermarket there's tons of options from CP, Carillio, Eagle, Titian Motorsports, Wiesco, JE, Manley, Brian Crower and much more. At this point I would recommend taking your engine to a specialist because there's alot involved in building a custom bottom end. You'll need the right tolerances for your power goals, and calculate things like the right squish. Also since the engine is already apart, you can also upgrade your cylinder heads with stiffer valve springs, stronger retainers, bigger cam, and maybe get some porting done if you want to.
If you want to go aftermarket there's tons of options from CP, Carillio, Eagle, Titian Motorsports, Wiesco, JE, Manley, Brian Crower and much more. At this point I would recommend taking your engine to a specialist because there's alot involved in building a custom bottom end. You'll need the right tolerances for your power goals, and calculate things like the right squish. Also since the engine is already apart, you can also upgrade your cylinder heads with stiffer valve springs, stronger retainers, bigger cam, and maybe get some porting done if you want to.
03-12-16, 07:26 PM
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When I referred to GTE internals, I was just talking about the pistons and connecting rods from a 2jz-gte engine. There are two 2jz-gte engines out there, the vvt-i and non vvt-i. Both of these engines have a 8:1 compression ratio and the internals are exactly the same. If you want to keep your compression 10:1 you could get the internals from a non vvt-i 2jz-ge engine. All three of these engines use the same connecting rods, and the only difference is the GTE pistons have a 8:1 compression and recesses on the bottom for oil squirters. However if you're putting them in a GE engine, the oil squirters won't be used anyways. Also to note, most of the compression drop is due to a thicker headgasket on the GTE engine. All of the 2jz engines have the same crankshaft so the rotating assembly is all interchangeable.
If you want to go aftermarket there's tons of options from CP, Carillio, Eagle, Titian Motorsports, Wiesco, JE, Manley, Brian Crower and much more. At this point I would recommend taking your engine to a specialist because there's alot involved in building a custom bottom end. You'll need the right tolerances for your power goals, and calculate things like the right squish. Also since the engine is already apart, you can also upgrade your cylinder heads with stiffer valve springs, stronger retainers, bigger cam, and maybe get some porting done if you want to.
If you want to go aftermarket there's tons of options from CP, Carillio, Eagle, Titian Motorsports, Wiesco, JE, Manley, Brian Crower and much more. At this point I would recommend taking your engine to a specialist because there's alot involved in building a custom bottom end. You'll need the right tolerances for your power goals, and calculate things like the right squish. Also since the engine is already apart, you can also upgrade your cylinder heads with stiffer valve springs, stronger retainers, bigger cam, and maybe get some porting done if you want to.
03-15-16, 05:21 AM
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Wait I just noticed you said aftermarket is the way to go .... Idc about the price tbh bro , I just want the GTE internald since I've seen many people comment in different post and say to go with them .