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I'm running "New batch" Ppe headers where they improved fitment. I get minor interference on hard rapid right turns but nothing unsafe. I'm pretty sure if I spend some time I can eliminate the rubbing I'm just to lazy and it doesn't bother me.
Update- still have this issue. We are debating more air hammer vs torching the header and bending it a bit. It is so thin and cheap it might just fail if we attempt that. The problem is 90% gone, but I want to be able to throw my car sideways and not feel the steering rubbing AT ALL.
Dyno tomorrow morning! I will see what the OBX headers and megan Y-pipe added (or took away). Driveability is honestly compromised at low RPM from the drivers seat, IMO. I hope I see some real power gains up top.
Well... ran the car on the dyno this morning and the headers gained absolutely nothing! It looks as though we never touched the car, overlaying the old dyno perfectly. HOWEVER, the headers cause the car to run MUCH richer, even richer than stock. I am posting the results in a separate thread in order to get some feedback. Wondering if I need to ditch the SRT black-box and tune it with a S-AFC or the likes to control the A/F and lean it out some.
that is so sexy... i just had to replace my y-pipe due to holes from the heatshield (see P0420 thread)... if i actually had a welder i trusted in the area to do the extension properly, i would have loved to do the Megan...
I'm not a fan of that y pipe design that you have. From an exhaust theory standpoint, it looks as if each exhaust pulse coming down the right or left side exhaust bank instead of flowing smoothly out the rest of the exhaust system, instead hits what would be considered a wall. and the only thing causing the exhaust to actually exit the pipe is the opposing bank of cylinders exhaust pushing back at it. if it were put into somekind of fluid dynamics imaging software it would probably look like a chaotic mess instead of a smooth flowing exhaust system. plus its much fatter in diameter so your loosing exhaust velocity. im pretty sure ive recommended in the past to temporarily remove that y pipe you bought and put in a factory one and see how it does. again, im not knocking you just letting you know what im seeing.
Yes I have considered putting the stock Y-pipe back on, and would like to dyno both ways ($100 a crack though just to get a number), but first I figured I should sort the tuning issue as I doubt the A/F pegging very rich is due to the Y-pipe.
Badblackgs, what is your exhaust set up? You mentioned adding a piece to the headers and getting short cats but you're saying to keep the stock y-pipe. Any photos? Rwheelz, any further work or dyno numbers? I've gotta repair my stock y-pipe and I'm deciding if I should go with that Megan pipe or something else. It sounds like I need to keep the factory diameter for the y and maybe delete the center resonator on my GS400.
I didn't modify the obx headers like I spoke of in an earlier post. if your running the stock torque converter than I'd recommend replacing your Y pipe with similar diameter or have one made locally that is close to 2 inches so you don't lose your exhaust velocity/speed. that will help to keep your low end torque. make sure to open up to some free flowing mufflers.
The OBX header fitment was horrible. Just like y’all mentioned. The driver side is hitting and won’t clear the steering joint linkage. Passenger side fits well. Here are some pics. Decided to heat wrap them. Driver side needs a good beating.
09-16-15, 03:58 PM
