C/R and increase power/ fuel mileage
#1
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C/R and increase power/ fuel mileage
Hello, I'm new to this form so please forgive me For questions you all have heard several times
I am looking to buy a 2002 is300 to make some long hull drivers but I also still want to have a car that is still fun to drive, without slapping a turbo at it so I've came to the idea of raising the c/r and water-meth injection. I have no previous expreance with 2jz engines
What kind of ratio is stock and what should I raise it to? And not have to fiddle with the computer
Thank you for your input
I am looking to buy a 2002 is300 to make some long hull drivers but I also still want to have a car that is still fun to drive, without slapping a turbo at it so I've came to the idea of raising the c/r and water-meth injection. I have no previous expreance with 2jz engines
What kind of ratio is stock and what should I raise it to? And not have to fiddle with the computer
Thank you for your input
#2
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Hello, I'm new to this form so please forgive me For questions you all have heard several times
I am looking to buy a 2002 is300 to make some long hull drivers but I also still want to have a car that is still fun to drive, without slapping a turbo at it so I've came to the idea of raising the c/r and water-meth injection. I have no previous expreance with 2jz engines
What kind of ratio is stock and what should I raise it to? And not have to fiddle with the computer
Thank you for your input
I am looking to buy a 2002 is300 to make some long hull drivers but I also still want to have a car that is still fun to drive, without slapping a turbo at it so I've came to the idea of raising the c/r and water-meth injection. I have no previous expreance with 2jz engines
What kind of ratio is stock and what should I raise it to? And not have to fiddle with the computer
Thank you for your input
cold air, exhaust, cams, tune, throttle body and other bolt ons will only get you about 200-220 wheel horsepower (they dyno 175ish stock).
that's a lot of money for not a lot of power IMO.
#3
Instructor
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I would not mess with the compression ratio unless you were building the motor from the bottom up. Doing something as simple as a thinner headgasket would increase the chances that valves would hit the pistons due to the variableness of the VVTI (I'm not saying it would happen, but in theory it could)
What you should do is intake, header, exhaust, lightweight pulleys, aftermarket crank pulley, upgraded clutch and flywheel if you're manual, LSD, coilovers, and some wider but lighter wheels (something forged).
This would pretty much max out the car without having to open up the head for cams. It also would allow you to do a turbo kit in the distant future if you choose, and all you would need to sell would be the intake and the header.
What you should do is intake, header, exhaust, lightweight pulleys, aftermarket crank pulley, upgraded clutch and flywheel if you're manual, LSD, coilovers, and some wider but lighter wheels (something forged).
This would pretty much max out the car without having to open up the head for cams. It also would allow you to do a turbo kit in the distant future if you choose, and all you would need to sell would be the intake and the header.
Last edited by 1997Soarer; 03-06-15 at 08:53 PM.
#4
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I would not mess with the compression ratio unless you were building the motor from the bottom up. Doing something as simple as a thinner headgasket would increase the chances that valves would hit the pistons due to the variableness of the VVTI (I'm not saying it would happen, but in theory it could)
What you should do is intake, header, exhaust, lightweight pulleys, aftermarket crank pulley, upgraded clutch and flywheel if you're manual, LSD, coilovers, and some wider but lighter wheels (something forged).
This would pretty much max out the car without having to open up the head for cams. It also would allow you to do a turbo kit in the distant future if you choose, and all you would need to sell would be the intake and the header.
What you should do is intake, header, exhaust, lightweight pulleys, aftermarket crank pulley, upgraded clutch and flywheel if you're manual, LSD, coilovers, and some wider but lighter wheels (something forged).
This would pretty much max out the car without having to open up the head for cams. It also would allow you to do a turbo kit in the distant future if you choose, and all you would need to sell would be the intake and the header.
The problem with your list is a lot of it will be replaced if you go turbo down the road. Aftermarket crank pulleys (the good, dampened ones) are actually heavier than stock. Mine weighs almost 3x what the stock pulley does. Intake would be sold/tossed when going turbo, as would exhaust. Also, the stock intake is very efficient - dyno tests show almost zero gain when going with aftermarket.
Many IS300's come LSD from the factory, so, check that first also.
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