GS400 SRT intake LIES!
02-15-15, 06:37 AM
#16
Hi all. I figured I'd throw in my 2 cents as well for what it's worth.
All my official dynos to date were done at the same shop that used a dynodynamics dyno which could be considered as a Mustang dyno or "heartbreaker dyno" because it gives you the most realistic results; not inflated like on a dyno jet. I only had a K&N intake and Borla rear section exhaust and pulled around 246whp. 1hr later they had my Apexi Neo installed and tuned to around 13.5afr @ wot (lean side to extract more power); that pulled around 267whp. Came back about 2yrs later with 3rd batch S&S headers and got another 20whp or so plus another few more with retuning the Neo. Arrived at 283whp on my 16" wheels at 75degrees out. Re-dyno'd 6mos later with new TM plugs in 40degree weather BUT on my heavy *** 19" wheels and got only 278whp...would most likely have been better than my previous 283whp had I done it again on my 16" wheels. Wheel size and weight matters keep that in mind for yourselves. My 19 wheel and tire setup is approx 11 lbs more per corner.
Nutshell:
1) you should be getting 230whp bone stock at a minimum on a mustang dyno. A dyno jet will prob yield 240-245whp or so.
2) if you're not getting these baseline numbers then you need to probably work on your maintenance. Throwing more mods won't fix the root cause; you'll always be lower than you should.
I cleaned my throttle body, MAF, used Royal Purple engine oil, made sure my spark plugs were good (my first dyno), I also changed my rear diff fluid as it was not changed for over 8yrs at the time; it was thick as molasses! Threw in Royal Purple as well.
Good luck all. That was a quick background story from me that I hope is useful.
All my official dynos to date were done at the same shop that used a dynodynamics dyno which could be considered as a Mustang dyno or "heartbreaker dyno" because it gives you the most realistic results; not inflated like on a dyno jet. I only had a K&N intake and Borla rear section exhaust and pulled around 246whp. 1hr later they had my Apexi Neo installed and tuned to around 13.5afr @ wot (lean side to extract more power); that pulled around 267whp. Came back about 2yrs later with 3rd batch S&S headers and got another 20whp or so plus another few more with retuning the Neo. Arrived at 283whp on my 16" wheels at 75degrees out. Re-dyno'd 6mos later with new TM plugs in 40degree weather BUT on my heavy *** 19" wheels and got only 278whp...would most likely have been better than my previous 283whp had I done it again on my 16" wheels. Wheel size and weight matters keep that in mind for yourselves. My 19 wheel and tire setup is approx 11 lbs more per corner.
Nutshell:
1) you should be getting 230whp bone stock at a minimum on a mustang dyno. A dyno jet will prob yield 240-245whp or so.
2) if you're not getting these baseline numbers then you need to probably work on your maintenance. Throwing more mods won't fix the root cause; you'll always be lower than you should.
I cleaned my throttle body, MAF, used Royal Purple engine oil, made sure my spark plugs were good (my first dyno), I also changed my rear diff fluid as it was not changed for over 8yrs at the time; it was thick as molasses! Threw in Royal Purple as well.
Good luck all. That was a quick background story from me that I hope is useful.
02-15-15, 12:05 PM
#17
Hi all. I figured I'd throw in my 2 cents as well for what it's worth.
All my official dynos to date were done at the same shop that used a dynodynamics dyno which could be considered as a Mustang dyno or "heartbreaker dyno" because it gives you the most realistic results; not inflated like on a dyno jet. I only had a K&N intake and Borla rear section exhaust and pulled around 246whp. 1hr later they had my Apexi Neo installed and tuned to around 13.5afr @ wot (lean side to extract more power); that pulled around 267whp. Came back about 2yrs later with 3rd batch S&S headers and got another 20whp or so plus another few more with retuning the Neo. Arrived at 283whp on my 16" wheels at 75degrees out. Re-dyno'd 6mos later with new TM plugs in 40degree weather BUT on my heavy *** 19" wheels and got only 278whp...would most likely have been better than my previous 283whp had I done it again on my 16" wheels. Wheel size and weight matters keep that in mind for yourselves. My 19 wheel and tire setup is approx 11 lbs more per corner.
Nutshell:
1) you should be getting 230whp bone stock at a minimum on a mustang dyno. A dyno jet will prob yield 240-245whp or so.
2) if you're not getting these baseline numbers then you need to probably work on your maintenance. Throwing more mods won't fix the root cause; you'll always be lower than you should.
I cleaned my throttle body, MAF, used Royal Purple engine oil, made sure my spark plugs were good (my first dyno), I also changed my rear diff fluid as it was not changed for over 8yrs at the time; it was thick as molasses! Threw in Royal Purple as well.
Good luck all. That was a quick background story from me that I hope is useful.
All my official dynos to date were done at the same shop that used a dynodynamics dyno which could be considered as a Mustang dyno or "heartbreaker dyno" because it gives you the most realistic results; not inflated like on a dyno jet. I only had a K&N intake and Borla rear section exhaust and pulled around 246whp. 1hr later they had my Apexi Neo installed and tuned to around 13.5afr @ wot (lean side to extract more power); that pulled around 267whp. Came back about 2yrs later with 3rd batch S&S headers and got another 20whp or so plus another few more with retuning the Neo. Arrived at 283whp on my 16" wheels at 75degrees out. Re-dyno'd 6mos later with new TM plugs in 40degree weather BUT on my heavy *** 19" wheels and got only 278whp...would most likely have been better than my previous 283whp had I done it again on my 16" wheels. Wheel size and weight matters keep that in mind for yourselves. My 19 wheel and tire setup is approx 11 lbs more per corner.
Nutshell:
1) you should be getting 230whp bone stock at a minimum on a mustang dyno. A dyno jet will prob yield 240-245whp or so.
2) if you're not getting these baseline numbers then you need to probably work on your maintenance. Throwing more mods won't fix the root cause; you'll always be lower than you should.
I cleaned my throttle body, MAF, used Royal Purple engine oil, made sure my spark plugs were good (my first dyno), I also changed my rear diff fluid as it was not changed for over 8yrs at the time; it was thick as molasses! Threw in Royal Purple as well.
Good luck all. That was a quick background story from me that I hope is useful.
Thanks Rock-a lex for that insight, There is no doubt there is something going on here.
I installed this engine a few mos. ago and along with it I did all the maintenance, plugs TB, MAF etc. etc.
This particular dyno is well know for reading low, it show about 15% less than the denote located across the street.
Even so my low #s from stock intake to the SRT are my main concern.
I'll be looking at the options here - I have heard from some sources that the 2.5" X-pipe can lose HP - but I am not so ready to believe that yet as my other GS4 had decent gains 20 or so HP from the full exhaust, HF cats and headers.
2.5" exhaust seems fine on K20 Honda motors and our 1UZ is basically a pair of 2.0 motors...
02-16-15, 07:35 AM
#18
Just a thought.. rather than installing the SRT intake and immediately doing a pull, drive around with it for a week to let the car's ECU "learn" for a while. There is no question it makes changes and adapts. Also, are you sure the SRT ECU is wired correctly and interpreting the proper signals as it should?
02-25-15, 08:03 AM
#19
Angus!!!
Something is def. wrong with you car homie. At wot your afr should not be at 10:1 when I was in the process of building my turbo set up I drove with my wide band and gauges installed for two months monitoring the fuel trims and afrs before I installed my turbo and anytime I'd go wot the afr would hold rock steady at 12:1. I discovered only after I removed my turbo setup that my factory denso mass air flow sensor was crapping out on me. However no check engine light on. So the best way to test maf is to grab a decent scan tool not a pocket scanner from autozone. Go into the data stream and find the one that says calculated engine load. get the car running and up to operating temp. find a nice stretch of road that's straight and put the pedal to the floor and stay in it while watching the data. If the reading doesn't go to 100% almost immediately you can scrap you maf. Cleaning it has never resolved the issue for me like replacing with a brand new one. I went to the lexus dealership and bought a brand new denso maf for my car. installed it and touched the batt. cables together for 10 seconds to wipe out all memory in the computer. All I can say Is holy crap. A new denso maf. sensor made the car wake up and the shifts firm up. I can only imagine how my car would have ran with a new maf. when the turbo was in it. Also while you have the scan tool hooked up look at you fuel trims. they should be very close to zero, if not than diagnose why. also just go ahead and put some brand new denso oxygen sensors in your upstream also since they've been proven to only be reliable to upwards of 80,000 miles.
11-05-17, 06:24 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
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