BallzF250

2006 Lexus IS 250 6 speed manual
Spec Stage 2 Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel

My stock clutch started slipping last year (August timeframe). I purchased a Spec Stage 2 clutch and Fidanza Flywheel and got them installed (September timeframe). All was good for about 8 months.

April/May timeframe of this year I started having issues. Clutch would not disengage from the flywheel. Clutch pedal all the way to floor and when attempting to shift into gear, the car would roll like it was underpower. Needless to say, this ruined the clutch. Mechanic said they literally had to pry the clutch away from the flywheel.

Got a replacement clutch from Spec and had it installed. All was fine for about a week or so...still in the clutch break in period. Started having issues again. I'd go for a 10-15 minute drive, shut off the car, go back out a little while later for another drive and the clutch was acting like it wouldn't disengage with the pedal all the way to the floor.

Took it back to the mechanic. Bled the hydraulic system and was continuously getting air during the bleed process. Suggested replacing hydraulics (master/slave). Just got the parts installed today and my mechanic called me telling me it was doing they same thing as before (not disengaging after a warm up/cool down cycle). He was able to successfully bleed the system with the new hydraulics.

Anyone ever run into this before? Have any ideas as to what it is? Please don't say my driving style because that seems to be the first thing people suggest on the internet. Not my first manual transmission vehicle...I know how to drive it.

Getting pretty fed up with it and considering going back to the stock dual mass flywheel.

Thanks for the input,
Brandon

liqB

Curious, sprung or unsprung clutch? and how many miles did you get out of your original clutch? I have a 250MT and looking at the same flywheel/clutch combo.

BallzF250

Sprung clutch. I bough the car used from a dealership last April-May (2012) timeframe. The OEM clutch started slipping terribly around August-September (2012) timeframe. If I remember right, I'd say it had maybe 85K on it...not really sure...didn't pay that much attention to it.

I've read about plenty of people having no issues with this setup. Can't really figure out why I'm having issues. My mechanic called me again today and told me he replaced the clutch accumulor (in the hydraulic lines) and the car was fine for a little while. Shut it off and wait a while. Then start it back up and try to shift into gear and it would not disengage from the flywheel again.

I've only heard of one other instance with this spec clutch not disengaging from the stock dual-mass flywheel. That leads me to believe that something is not right with the clutch.

I'm leaning towards going back to a completely stock setup (stock flywheel and stock clutch). If I decide to go that route and you can wait a little while, I'd be glad to make you a great deal on the combo or just the flywheel or the clutch or whatever.

There shouldn't be anything wrong with the flywheel. And if it is burnt, then actual friction part of the flywheel is replaceable, so it'd still be worth it...I think the friction part is like $60 to $70 or something. I'll be sure to keep you in mind and let you know if I end up going back to stock.

arpegius

Did you end up fixing your problem??
How did your mechanic go around the flywheel bolts being longer, did he precision cut them or what did he do?

PonyBoyS13

OP, did you ever discover what your issue was with the clutch not disengaging? I am having the exact same issue and neither I nor the shop can figure it out. I have a Fidanza billet flywheel and Spec stage 1 unsprung. It started doing it right after the break in period. I tried to speak with Spec and got nowhere, they just blamed everything else. My only thought is something with the materials not coping together properly under higher/residing heat in the assembly. I have a Spec stage 4+ and Spec flywheel in my 240SX and never have had any issues.