tomsgtx

Hello. I'm a new member of this forum. I'm currently in my research stage and I'm wondering if I can get some insight from you guys..

I have a 90 RX-7 Turbo, currently with a blown rotary engine which is being removed now. This is going to be a third engine rebuild since I owned RX-7s. It's time for something different.
This will be my project car on the side.

I have a spare engine (2JZ-GE VVTI) from a friends GS300 that has a blown head gasket.

I will be using a Tech2 swap kit and there isn't much information on it yet. I seen 1 car fit a 1JZ-GTE with minor hood clearance issues. Not much on 2JZ with the tech2 kit. I seen people running custom mount that made themselves.

Considering the 2JZ-GE VVTI will have the intake manifold over the valve covers, it will probably not clear the hood at all. I think the front facing intake manifolds will correct that problem. I won't know for sure until I put the engine in and measure how much space I have to the strut towers.

So goals are to have 400-450whp (higher in the future, but right now, I'm good with 400-450whp) and still have a reliable car. Turbo of course. This car will be street driven.

So my plans so far are -
Find GTE pistons and connecting rods. (needed at this time?)
Install GTE head gasket
Finding a FFIM that will clear the hood and shock towers. (Worst case scenarios - Custom)
Find IS300 wiring harness + stock ECU and piggy back with a E-Manage.
I have access to a W58 (I think) manual transmission.
I'm not sure what turbo I should run as of yet.

I have a budget of 7,000 to get the car running.
I just have to do change the head gasket on the 2JZ-GE VVTI. I got the engine for free.
The transmission I will be getting for 400 dollars.
The mount kit for the 2JZ is going to run 1900 dollars.
That's not including the radiator, hoses, lines..extension housing for transmission if needed.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

AZTurbo

iTrader: (10)

You may be able to find an auto harness easier than the manual harness, but I believe the only diferences are in the chassis harness and not the engine harness. The auto ECU will also be easier to find than the manual.

Make sure you get a MKIV Supra or SC300 W58 not the MKIII W58. Keep in mind that the W58 has been known to only hold ~400 whp.

tomsgtx

Thanks for the reply.

Would I have to do any wiring modifications for the automatic ecm and wiring harness ?

I figured finding a manual ecm with wiring harness will be difficult.

I will be tearing into the 2jz ge today. The engine was sitting for over a year. Hopefully no major damage ..

I found out the transmission is from a sc300.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

OMG, stop now... just, stop...

planning to use an IS300 ECU and Emanage is just asking for problems...

I, too, figured, what could be so hard about it, I'd used the Emanage on other cars and a few guys around have used them... what a nightmare... best thing I ever ever did was to install an AEM EMS... You can find gen 1's for $500-$600, you can get a brand new Supra box for $1300... trust me, it is night and day difference in tunability and drivability... the Emanage was a constant fight, the EMS, perfect...

I can help with a base map for a VVTI motor, as the cam and crank sensors are different than what the maps included or the wizard are based off of... Pretty much no one else has done this and shared it openly, but the info is now out there...

Also, the IS300 ECU's, at least the 01's use a wheel speed sensor from the ABS for speedometer input, the SC300 trans you have should have its own speed sensor, and that is a good thing...

1900 for engine mounts? that is crazy stuff right there... It can't be that hard to fab them...

If this was my project, electrically, I would source a VVTI GTE wiring harness if you can, one that has the ECU under the dash... should generally include the correct connectors for a 6100 or 6101 AEM EMS... plug and play the ECU, then I'll send you a base map with correct cam and crank sensor calibrations... Simple... All the IS and GS wiring harnesses are geared to having the ecu behind the drivers headlight... what a pain extending that junk, as even the Emanage won't survive under the hood, let alone an AEM... Trust me, been there done that...


Glad you finally saw the light and are dumping the rotary... I have a lot of respect for those motors, they just can't take the abuse....

exist3nce

Mitsu, I don't see why you are soooo against Emanage? I know of at least 3 guys locally that are running Emanage ultimate in IS300's that run perfectly fine and perfectly drivable. That is not to say there is anything wrong with standalones - I have AEM EMS myself and its great because it allows for 100% control and flexibility and pretty much unlimited power portential. But for lower power setups (less than 450whp) Emanage is fine and will reduce the complexity and tuning time required while retaining all the stock reliability and OBD2 type diagnostics.

To the OP, if you are planning for bigger power in the near future, then yes you might as well go for a standalone now and save yourself the trouble of wiring twice. But if you plan to start off low for a good while Emanage will do the trick.

See this video of how a well tuned IS300 w/Emanage Ult should be:



Owner's description:

January 2010
DMT's Turbo IS300 E-shift @ 14.5 PSI of boost

This video was created to show how the car drives with the GReddy E-manage taken to the upper limits (440 WHP power level). By staying with the E-manage, it resulted in OEM factory cold starts, idle, smoothness and fuel economy. This is something that standalone EMS cannot offer for this particular platform. There are many other supporting upgrades to make the E-manage work in this fashion and become stable enough for higher power levels. Please visit My.IS forums for a recent discussion about this video.

Lexus IS300 E-shift Auto
8.5:1 CR Wiseco Pistons
2JZ-GTE Rods with ARP Rod Bolts
2JZ-GTE Headgasket
2JZ-GTE OBDI Coilpacks
CCHT Ported Cylinder Head
JDM 2JZ-GTE Electronic Throttlebody
Import Performance Trans (IPT) Valvebody
ATP GT3076R Divided 0.78 A/R T3
Divided Scroll T3 Tubular Manifold
Turbosmart 48mm ProGate
XForce Varex Electronic Muffler
SMP 48 lbs/hr Injectors
SMP 120 lb/hr Dual Additional Injector Setup
DMT Meth System
APEXi AVCR
600HP Intercooler
GReddy Type-S BOV
3" DP and Exhaust
Fuel Damper Delete
Custom Fuel Return System
Turbosmart Fuel Pressure Regulator
Walbro GSS342 Pump

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Here's the deal... With the emanage, after 50-75 miles, fuel trims inside the stock ecu would be so skewed, that what was tuned to be a 14.5:1 idle would change to 10 or 11:1... It wasn't just mileage based though, it was related to number of starts... The factory ecu learns and fights the emanage tuning and skews everything... Of course the way most get around this is by installing some sort of relay that kills power to the ecu every time the key is switched off. This does two things, one, it resets fuel trims and two, it cancels any benefits you thought you had in keeping the factory diagnostics as most faults require two trips for detection.

Also, aside from about two extra cranks, even on e85, my car starts first time every time, well, it did, til I tore it down to make more power... I also got 20-22 mpg on regular gas, which is pretty close to what I got when the car was 100% stock... Rural and small town driving mainly.

Pretty sure by the time you buy a hopefully working emanage, wiring harness and an IS ecu, you could have almost bought an AEM... Also, one thing to keel in mind is the IS ECU is expecting a drive by wire throttle body, which most who eliminate, actually end up putting it in the trunk and keep it connected so the factory ECU doesn't freak out...

tomsgtx

Tore into the 2JZ-GE and it was pretty much junk. It would be too much work to rebuild so I'm trying to find a 2JZ-GTE instead. Keep you posted.

Also, the mount kit includes Front Cross Member, Transmission Cross Member, Drive Shaft, Motor Mounts, Motor Mount Brackets, and Shifter Extension.

selmerguy

Got 350 into my EMU, bought it from some dude that didnt know how to use it. If you wire your S1 o2s togeather and hook up a OBD2 logger it is super easy to tune. No resets here at all. You get 14.7 closed loop all day and the tune is very stable in open loop after you figure out how to make the ecu quit chasing its tail(wire the B1S1 and B2S1 togeather). Way too many people use the global injector sizing not knowing how to use it aswell. EMU is great and not having that ugly CEL is pretty nice too. I claim the 10% rule in most peoples problems with the EMU. Opperator must be 10% smarter than the piece of equipment they are trying to use.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

How long have you been running it that way?

What kind of power are you making and what size injectors? What fuel?

Did you know that even with the two bank O2 sensors wired together that the factory ECU will change fuel trims for the front and rear banks independently? I had as much as a 10% difference front to rear banks with those O2 sensors wired together...

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Too much work to rebuild?

All rebuilds are pretty much the same - hone / bore the cylinders, deck it, pressure test the head and clean it all... So long as the crank isn't trash...

selmerguy

I have been running 550's with a 255 returnless setup for about 1000 miles right now. I am waiting for some stuff to get here before I tear into my turbo build. I actually started running my EMU with a completely stock setup to carefully log and understand the ECU. I then added a cheap ebay intake which I will use for my IC piping later and corrected for it with the airflow table. This IMO is the was top correct for a bigger diameter pipe not scew o2 voltages..... Anyway after I ran like that with no issues I installed my 550s and tuned them down with the injector table. With the goal of as close to zero short and long term fuel trims via ODB2. This was not hard. Just got to know what you are doing and be a little patient. So the fuel pump was next and that caused no change to the tune fuel pressure at the rail didnt change either. So the 255 dosnt look to over load the stock FPR. I have a couple AFPR laying around the house that I could install but I am going to try it without to see how it goes. Will be boosted in two weeks unless the UPS screws thing up again,

BiggDatty

Just build the GE into a GTE with GTE Internals lol I've seen many RX7's with 2jzgte, but never a ge.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

I did pretty much all the same things, but ran into the ECU still correcting between front and rear banks differently, even though the O2's were tied together...

Are you monitoring what AFR's you are getting with a wideband? I would venture a guess dangerously lean as that is how the factory computer likes to run things...

Trust me, I was in the exact same boat as you and everything was manageable until the car was turbo'd... Also, if you run an automatic, as I do, and make any real power, and keep the factory redline (the Emanage way of upping redline is terrible), then the trans, even with a shift kit, will just bounce off the rev limiter... The factory shift point is maybe 50-100 rpm before the actual rev limiter which works when making stock power, but much more and it just bounces off the limiter...

1JZRX7

you have wuite the road ahead of you. i am in the process of a 1jz swap into an 89 vert rx7 and lemme tell you what it is a very expensive time consuming build. though im curious are you doing all the fab yourself or tech 2 drag and drop kit.

sidewayz93

wish i had the funds to do this lol