Dyno Tuning
08-21-13, 08:27 PM
#18
Correct. But the drivetrain loss on our cars (GS) is closer to 19%. The highest I have ever seen a stock 2nd gen GS dyno at was 247whp. Given that the flywheel or crank is rated at 300hp, that's an 18% drivetrain loss. I have also seen some dyno as low as 234whp. Irrc, my car dyno'd initially with my K&N intake only at 246whp. Which leads me to believe my car bone stock was dynoing around 241ish at the time. With my mods I was able to bump it up almost 40whp. Much of it was attributed to the Neo and headers. GL
08-22-13, 08:01 AM
#19
^^ Good info there.
Also bear in mind that not all dynos are created equal. You'll see wide variations in readings from the same car on different dynos. If you want to have a number to brag about - find a DynoJet. The Dyno Dynamics units are nicknamed "the heartbreaker" because they tend to be on the lower-reading end of the spectrum.
It's kinda like a bathroom scale in that way. My wife likes one particular one in the house because it reads lower than the rest of them
The best way to use a dyno is to find one near you and always use the same dyno (and operator, if you can). That is the only way you will really be able to make good use of the dyno as a measuring tool.
Also bear in mind that not all dynos are created equal. You'll see wide variations in readings from the same car on different dynos. If you want to have a number to brag about - find a DynoJet. The Dyno Dynamics units are nicknamed "the heartbreaker" because they tend to be on the lower-reading end of the spectrum.
It's kinda like a bathroom scale in that way. My wife likes one particular one in the house because it reads lower than the rest of them
The best way to use a dyno is to find one near you and always use the same dyno (and operator, if you can). That is the only way you will really be able to make good use of the dyno as a measuring tool.
08-22-13, 10:06 PM
#20
^^ Good info there.
Also bear in mind that not all dynos are created equal. You'll see wide variations in readings from the same car on different dynos. If you want to have a number to brag about - find a DynoJet. The Dyno Dynamics units are nicknamed "the heartbreaker" because they tend to be on the lower-reading end of the spectrum.
It's kinda like a bathroom scale in that way. My wife likes one particular one in the house because it reads lower than the rest of them
The best way to use a dyno is to find one near you and always use the same dyno (and operator, if you can). That is the only way you will really be able to make good use of the dyno as a measuring tool.
Also bear in mind that not all dynos are created equal. You'll see wide variations in readings from the same car on different dynos. If you want to have a number to brag about - find a DynoJet. The Dyno Dynamics units are nicknamed "the heartbreaker" because they tend to be on the lower-reading end of the spectrum.
It's kinda like a bathroom scale in that way. My wife likes one particular one in the house because it reads lower than the rest of them
The best way to use a dyno is to find one near you and always use the same dyno (and operator, if you can). That is the only way you will really be able to make good use of the dyno as a measuring tool.
08-30-13, 02:22 PM
#21
What do you guys think are realistic HP tuning numbers given my 270 crank hp, and mods (PPE headers, y-pipe, tanabe cat backs, and ebay BFI)? I'd be looking for a conservative street tune.
Also, do any of you guys have any expierience tuning the 1UZ with the UniChip? Seems like the Austrailians swear by it, claiming its the perfect supporting mod to round off the BFI and full exhuast mods on 1UZ's. Or should I just go with something more common in North America like the super AFC?
Here's a link to it: http://planetsoarer.com/unichip/unichip.htm
I've been looking into tuning my SC to support the mods I already have, but not many people have tuned the vvt-i 1UZ over in the SC section. I dont venture over to the GS section very often, but it seems like you guys have done more to the 1UZ than SC guys; I might have to search around here a bit more - I apologize in advance if theres a thread that covers this already (I'll find it eventually).
Also, do any of you guys have any expierience tuning the 1UZ with the UniChip? Seems like the Austrailians swear by it, claiming its the perfect supporting mod to round off the BFI and full exhuast mods on 1UZ's. Or should I just go with something more common in North America like the super AFC?
Here's a link to it: http://planetsoarer.com/unichip/unichip.htm
I've been looking into tuning my SC to support the mods I already have, but not many people have tuned the vvt-i 1UZ over in the SC section. I dont venture over to the GS section very often, but it seems like you guys have done more to the 1UZ than SC guys; I might have to search around here a bit more - I apologize in advance if theres a thread that covers this already (I'll find it eventually).
09-01-13, 07:03 AM
#22
As a general rule of thumb and one I like to use is that our cars lose 20% of power through the drivetrain prior to hitting the wheels. With this said your probably at 215whp then add your headers, y pipe and exhaust you'll probably get another 30whp. I don't know much about your EBay BFI but let's be aggressive and add another 10 whp. In the end, I'm betting you're around 255whp...which is a nice 40whp (60hp @ crank) jump from stock. It may be slightly less but at least 250whp.
I don't know much about uni-chip but I do know about the various Apexi A/F controllers; some have the older SAFC II, some have the newer Neo...like me. The Neo, in standalone dyno sessions added around 20whp alone! You would/should see something similar. Also, look into Torque Master spark plugs...proven to add 6whp and you feel it! These two items will add say another 25whp where you should then be around 275 - 280 whp. The car now really moves! Throw in steeper rear gears and a high stall torque converter and the car now feels like a 400hp (crank car).
Good luck man, just giving you some ideas, this is most of my current setup. Still dragging my feet on my SC setup. Lolol.
I don't know much about uni-chip but I do know about the various Apexi A/F controllers; some have the older SAFC II, some have the newer Neo...like me. The Neo, in standalone dyno sessions added around 20whp alone! You would/should see something similar. Also, look into Torque Master spark plugs...proven to add 6whp and you feel it! These two items will add say another 25whp where you should then be around 275 - 280 whp. The car now really moves! Throw in steeper rear gears and a high stall torque converter and the car now feels like a 400hp (crank car).
Good luck man, just giving you some ideas, this is most of my current setup. Still dragging my feet on my SC setup. Lolol.
09-06-13, 07:23 PM
#23
As a general rule of thumb and one I like to use is that our cars lose 20% of power through the drivetrain prior to hitting the wheels. With this said your probably at 215whp then add your headers, y pipe and exhaust you'll probably get another 30whp. I don't know much about your EBay BFI but let's be aggressive and add another 10 whp. In the end, I'm betting you're around 255whp...which is a nice 40whp (60hp @ crank) jump from stock. It may be slightly less but at least 250whp.
I don't know much about uni-chip but I do know about the various Apexi A/F controllers; some have the older SAFC II, some have the newer Neo...like me. The Neo, in standalone dyno sessions added around 20whp alone! You would/should see something similar. Also, look into Torque Master spark plugs...proven to add 6whp and you feel it! These two items will add say another 25whp where you should then be around 275 - 280 whp. The car now really moves! Throw in steeper rear gears and a high stall torque converter and the car now feels like a 400hp (crank car).
Good luck man, just giving you some ideas, this is most of my current setup. Still dragging my feet on my SC setup. Lolol.
I don't know much about uni-chip but I do know about the various Apexi A/F controllers; some have the older SAFC II, some have the newer Neo...like me. The Neo, in standalone dyno sessions added around 20whp alone! You would/should see something similar. Also, look into Torque Master spark plugs...proven to add 6whp and you feel it! These two items will add say another 25whp where you should then be around 275 - 280 whp. The car now really moves! Throw in steeper rear gears and a high stall torque converter and the car now feels like a 400hp (crank car).
Good luck man, just giving you some ideas, this is most of my current setup. Still dragging my feet on my SC setup. Lolol.
I'm also looking into a 1UZ W58 conversion, which should lower the drivetrain loss percentage even more. Actually debating whether the extra problems/effort/work is worth going R154 (to save myself from problems in the future), or even going all the way and doing a 350Z 6spd swap. Biggest issue for me is that I havent come across the R154 or 350Z manual swap into OBD2 SC's, and only a handful of W58 swaps into the 98+ years..
I already have a TT 3.76 LSD so the steeper gearing is already there (and it does make a big difference at low end). I've actually never heard of the Tourqe Master sparks, so I'll look into that as well.
Looks like poking around the GS section was the right move for me
Last edited by scENFORCER; 09-06-13 at 07:26 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
