Switching to 2jz questions
#1
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Switching to 2jz questions
I've been wanting to do a swap for a 2jz but I'm worrying about the problems that might come up. Like overheating ,and etc. My bud has a 2jz 700hp sc300 and it overheats like a ***** after a stroll
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...266_n.jpg?dl=1
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...029_n.jpg?dl=1
The heat from the smoke is so extreme, that I could feel it from 10 feet away. I was wondering if I would have the same problem if I threw in a 2jz in my is300 '03
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...266_n.jpg?dl=1
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...029_n.jpg?dl=1
The heat from the smoke is so extreme, that I could feel it from 10 feet away. I was wondering if I would have the same problem if I threw in a 2jz in my is300 '03
#7
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Anyone swapped the Aristo VVTI motor in one of these using the factory twins? I've heard that the won't clear the strut tower. Is that true? It would be fun to have one using all of the factory electronics and not have to mess with tuning. The reliability would be nice! I'm guessing wiring would take some work but hopefully not too much that way either.
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#8
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Anyone swapped the Aristo VVTI motor in one of these using the factory twins? I've heard that the won't clear the strut tower. Is that true? It would be fun to have one using all of the factory electronics and not have to mess with tuning. The reliability would be nice! I'm guessing wiring would take some work but hopefully not too much that way either.
So, if you don't care about power, sure, it'd be reliable, but there are not a lot here that would be happy with 280-300 at the wheels after spending that kind of money on a swap with an engine that has the potential for 500-600 easy, more still possible...
#9
You can do this even with aftermarket turbo, you don't have to use the factory twins, problem is, you are limited to the stock injectors for power, the stock computer for fuel cut, and no way to tune for anything other than a little over stock power...
So, if you don't care about power, sure, it'd be reliable, but there are not a lot here that would be happy with 280-300 at the wheels after spending that kind of money on a swap with an engine that has the potential for 500-600 easy, more still possible...
So, if you don't care about power, sure, it'd be reliable, but there are not a lot here that would be happy with 280-300 at the wheels after spending that kind of money on a swap with an engine that has the potential for 500-600 easy, more still possible...
1. shave down rear intake pipe of rear turbo to help clear firewall.
2. move body harness up above valve cover ( yes it will stretch)
3. i moved my ABS to battery location and moved battery to trunk (some dont and say it doesnt affect heating the brake lines, but I chose to be safe)
4. extend MAF plug to reach intake side, thats where you will have to place your MAF in your I/C piping.
5. you will have to order a universal I/C kit and have someone custom weld up your piping with the MAF mounted 14" from the TB.
my car was dyno'd at Mainstream Performance and put down 361hp and 380tq on 18psi. AFR's were 10.9 through out the pull. It did blow spark out around 6k, i needed to regap plugs to 28 but didnt have time before so technically it had a lil more to go. yes i need fuel management but this was my first dyno and the car still runs great daily with cold A/C and idles at 750-800. no overheating issues or CEL's ! I did eliminate the factory sequential setup and modded to be true twin so there is a lil lag until 3,000 then it really comes alive! I do have a 3" exhaust from the turbos back.
#10
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using your factory ECU? and no management?
So, how are you compensating for the larger injectors? How are you compensating for the difference in timing curves between n/a and turbo motors?
Also, at 4.3 volts, give or take, of mass air flow, there is a fuel cut built in to the factory ECU... There are so many things wrong that I'm sorry, but your explanation just doesn't add up...
Just for one, factory fuel map is designed for 43 psi steady state fuel pressure, not a rising rate 1:1 that the Aristo motor has. Also, the factory IS injectors are 280cc, whereas the Aristo are most likely 450cc... Without something to tune, even at idle, you are injecting 50% more fuel than you should be... o2 sensors can make up for some of this, but its not right...
So, how are you compensating for the larger injectors? How are you compensating for the difference in timing curves between n/a and turbo motors?
Also, at 4.3 volts, give or take, of mass air flow, there is a fuel cut built in to the factory ECU... There are so many things wrong that I'm sorry, but your explanation just doesn't add up...
Just for one, factory fuel map is designed for 43 psi steady state fuel pressure, not a rising rate 1:1 that the Aristo motor has. Also, the factory IS injectors are 280cc, whereas the Aristo are most likely 450cc... Without something to tune, even at idle, you are injecting 50% more fuel than you should be... o2 sensors can make up for some of this, but its not right...
#11
dr. tweak offers a harness swap conversion where you send him your harness and the Aristo harness... he makes it to use the Aristo ecu for the motor and the IS ecu for everything else.... prettymuch plug and play.
problem comes in with doing things correctly... THIS IS NOT A SWAP FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NOT DOEN EITHER MULTIPLE SWAPS BEFORE OR HAVE REGULAR WRENCH TIME!!! IF YOU ARE A BASIC BOLT ON GUY THAT DOESNT KNOW HOW TO WIRE, FABRICATE OR KNOW HOW TO TROUBLE SHOOT WITH OUT SOMEONES HELP YOU SHOULD NOT,,, I REPEAT NNNNNOOOOOOTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!, DO THIS SWAP!!!!
problem comes in with doing things correctly... THIS IS NOT A SWAP FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NOT DOEN EITHER MULTIPLE SWAPS BEFORE OR HAVE REGULAR WRENCH TIME!!! IF YOU ARE A BASIC BOLT ON GUY THAT DOESNT KNOW HOW TO WIRE, FABRICATE OR KNOW HOW TO TROUBLE SHOOT WITH OUT SOMEONES HELP YOU SHOULD NOT,,, I REPEAT NNNNNOOOOOOTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!, DO THIS SWAP!!!!
#14
yes, if you use your factory harness as i did, it will work as stock. all i did was move the Maf plug to the driverside where i relocated my MAF. mine works fine and passes emissions with no cel. i do have the bank 2 oxygen sensors cloned to the bank 1 sensors (toyotas primarily read fuel trim off bank 1 sensors) and it eliminated the common B2S2 code that all IS's have issues with.
#15
Not the thread jack or anything, But im just days away from buying a 2002 is300 5 sp MT, and I have a true jsz147 rhd aristo with a non vvti 2jzgte in it. Im planning on pulling the GTE and swapping the motors around. So from what im reading, the IS has a body ECU and a engine ECU? I will not be able to just drop in the GTE with the wireharness and use the GTE ecu in the is300?