100degrees

iTrader: (1)

EDIT: Installed but had a few questions!

Does the bolt w the spring go at the very end to the axle back? I reused the stock spring'ed bolt for the rear and the supplied bolts on the front and mid section.

I have everything bolted up but it seems to rattle on something. When I hit a dip something is touching. Sounds like maybe the midpipe on the center frame bar?

Also my exhaust tips are not even now. The left is flush with the bumper whereas the right sticks out.


Hey has anyone tackled this on their on? I'm looking to install my midpipe this weekend and I had a couple questions.

What size wrenches do I need to remove the o2 sensors?
What sizes are the bolts to the oem midpipe?

Are there any tricks I should know or is there something that's routinely difficult to do in the process?

I figured it would be a pretty straight-forward install but hey you never know if you're going to run into surprises.

Thanks!

SB350

iTrader: (1)

You need a O2 sensor removal socket (a deep one) and all the bolts on the exhaust system are 14mm I believe. It's not too difficult, but it's not super easy like a cat-back exhaust either. On mine, the bolts from the headers to the stock midpipe were tight as hell. I had to use WD-40 and a breaker bar to loosen them. It would help if you had access to a lift to do the install as well.

is250noob

How is the clearance as far as accessing the bolts from the headers to the stock pipe? I've done swaps many times (SMOG reasons) on my Mustang, and I've never used a O2 socket. I'm wondering if a crescent wrench will do the job like it does on a Mustang...

SB350

iTrader: (1)

^ Clearance is not an issue if you put your car on a lift or lift it high enough on jack stands. If you don't want to use an O2 socket, you would have to cut the metal shroud off the O2 sensor and then you could use a crescent wrench. The O2 socket makes it much easier though.

is250noob

Hmm that's a new one to me. I'll have to look at some pix I can find to take a look.

100degrees

iTrader: (1)

Well i guess i have to head to a local autozone for that o2 socket. Thanks for the info!

brociouz

iTrader: (65)

It looks like you have an '06, like me, which means those bolts are going to be tougher to remove. I highly recommend trying to do this install on a lift. I tried doing it in a small pit (equivalent to jack stands I suppose) and I couldn't get enough leverage to remove the bolts. After putting it on my friend's lift I was able to remove them no problem. Good luck!

100degrees

iTrader: (1)

I don't have a lift but I'll give it a try on jack stands. If all fails, I'll take it to my buddy's shop. I hope it isn't too rusty since this car was only in the Northeast for a year.

509IS350

iTrader: (5)

You should be fine i justdid it with two stands and and couple jacks. Just make sure u have a socket wrench and a cresent wrench for the back of the bolts and use anti seize when u reinstall the bolts. The most pita is the o2. Its in a tight spot. My got gummed up so i had to buy a new one. Goodluck

100degrees

iTrader: (1)

bump w questions!!

509IS350

iTrader: (5)

Did you reuse the washer at the end of the stock midpipe also? Its a tapered ring. U should be able to adjust ur tip slightly.

100degrees

iTrader: (1)

Hmm washer? I'm not sure about washer. But I reused the front bolts on the rear since the rear bolt was stationary and on the stock midpipe.

509IS350

iTrader: (5)

Theres a tapered gasket at the end of r stock midpipe that u reuse.

100degrees

iTrader: (1)

Oh the ring gasket. Yup that was reused.

100degrees

iTrader: (1)

Heres a pic of the brace bar/lower strut bar that may be banging on the midpipe on dips/bumps. It clears when its stationary but the clearance is limited. Anyone experiencing this issue? Did I bolt up the pipe incorrectly for the pipe to be bouncy like that?