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JDM 2jzgte vvti swap GS300

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Old 03-13-11, 08:25 AM   #1
SBM2jLEX
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Default JDM 2jzgte vvti swap GS300

Hello guys, I have a Spectra Blue Mica GS300 that I just purchased a few months ago. Right after purchasing the car I upgraded the suspension to megan lp coil-overs and got drilled/slotted rotors with pads. I recently received my jdm 2jzgte vvti swap. This is as complete as they come as it included the jdm ecu, ignitor, maf, harness, 4-spd tranny, driveshaft, rear diff, axles, p.s. resevoir, and aristo fuel pump assembly. Since I was going to have my hands in the area anyways, I wanted to do some bpu. I went one step colder on the plugs, added a 255 walbro, -6an fuel return line, b&m tranny cooler, supra throttle cable, and full 3" exhaust with custom downpipe and restrictor plate(still in the works). FCD is soon to come..


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Last edited by SBM2jLEX; 04-14-11 at 02:49 AM..
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Old 03-14-11, 01:10 PM   #2
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That is the only wire I changed. There is an orange plug you need to use in the ECU box but that is all I can think of.

Ben
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Old 03-14-11, 08:52 PM   #3
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That is the only wire I changed. There is an orange plug you need to use in the ECU box but that is all I can think of.

Ben
Cool thanks. I did the wire today and the tach works fine. To my surprise a few lights are no longer showing, but i still have 2 VSC's and a CEL.. Do you have these lit up aswell? And as far as the orange plug are you talking about the plugs that are next to the ecu, orange plug thats next to the black plug?
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Old 03-14-11, 08:58 PM   #4
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Now that i got the tach running i can reference what rpms im at on start up. Right when i crank it up it sounds beautiful and revs at 1k rpm. It only stays there for a few seconds then drops to 750. At 750 it still sounds decent but it doesnt stay there for long either. A few seconds later it drops to around 500 and sounds kinda rough.. I thought that since the motor is cold it should idle high for a while and then will work its way down but thats not happening..
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Old 03-19-11, 04:24 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by SBM2jLEX View Post
Now that i got the tach running i can reference what rpms im at on start up. Right when i crank it up it sounds beautiful and revs at 1k rpm. It only stays there for a few seconds then drops to 750. At 750 it still sounds decent but it doesnt stay there for long either. A few seconds later it drops to around 500 and sounds kinda rough.. I thought that since the motor is cold it should idle high for a while and then will work its way down but thats not happening..
Mine idles at 600, you can adjust it through the throttle cable , also are you using your stock cable ?
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Old 03-21-11, 08:07 AM   #6
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No im using the supra cable. Mine is idling less than that. Around 400 or so when it warms up. I tried driving it and it does fine if im light on the gas but when i get on it a lil it begins to bogg. I noticed some of the clips on my plug wires were broken so im going to replace those but idk what else it could be...
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Old 03-21-11, 08:09 AM   #7
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Also, what is everyone doing as far as shift lock goes? I was just thinking of taking the locking mechanish off so i dont have to press that stupid button every time i want to take it out of park.
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Old 03-21-11, 04:47 PM   #8
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No im using the supra cable. Mine is idling less than that. Around 400 or so when it warms up. I tried driving it and it does fine if im light on the gas but when i get on it a lil it begins to bogg. I noticed some of the clips on my plug wires were broken so im going to replace those but idk what else it could be...
Correction mine is around 400-500, what Intake are you using? I had a bogging problem bc the mas air flow senor. I put back the OEM intake an that was my problem
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Old 03-21-11, 04:48 PM   #9
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Also, what is everyone doing as far as shift lock goes? I was just thinking of taking the locking mechanish off so i dont have to press that stupid button every time i want to take it out of park.
? I don't have that ... I have a 99'
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Old 03-22-11, 11:16 AM   #10
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Cool thanks. I did the wire today and the tach works fine. To my surprise a few lights are no longer showing, but i still have 2 VSC's and a CEL.. Do you have these lit up aswell? And as far as the orange plug are you talking about the plugs that are next to the ecu, orange plug thats next to the black plug?
The VSC light is on because here in the states we have it, in Japan they don't, simple fix, just pull the bulb out from behind
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Old 03-23-11, 04:26 AM   #11
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jdm never had vsc .. jdm ecu has no ref for vsc inputs .. this has nothing to do with abs .. so vsc bulbs need to be pulled out..

idle speed on these vvti motors are all computer controlled .. there is a very fine adjustment on the throttlebody but the ecu is going correct it back to factory settings anyway eventually.. when blusc3 car starts idle is usually close to 1k then drops to 800 ish then drops to 600-750 ish.. thats where toyota programmed these things for smoothness..

shiftlock is there on all models , there is a couple of pins to move around for tranny shiftlock , lights on the dash and tranny to shift correctly.. also make sure you are using jdm maf as the part nmumber is slightly diff then usdm maf. a couple of pins need to be moved for maf to read correctly or else cel and car will not rev past 3k
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Old 03-23-11, 11:44 PM   #12
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Correction mine is around 400-500, what Intake are you using? I had a bogging problem bc the mas air flow senor. I put back the OEM intake an that was my problem
I just made me an intake from some old tubing i had laying around. Unfortunately i did not recieve an oem air box with my swap. I though of using my original one but since im running the side mount intercooler it does not clear. Do you think my diy intake my be the cause of the bogging?
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Old 03-23-11, 11:52 PM   #13
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jdm never had vsc .. jdm ecu has no ref for vsc inputs .. this has nothing to do with abs .. so vsc bulbs need to be pulled out..

idle speed on these vvti motors are all computer controlled .. there is a very fine adjustment on the throttlebody but the ecu is going correct it back to factory settings anyway eventually.. when blusc3 car starts idle is usually close to 1k then drops to 800 ish then drops to 600-750 ish.. thats where toyota programmed these things for smoothness..

shiftlock is there on all models , there is a couple of pins to move around for tranny shiftlock , lights on the dash and tranny to shift correctly.. also make sure you are using jdm maf as the part nmumber is slightly diff then usdm maf. a couple of pins need to be moved for maf to read correctly or else cel and car will not rev past 3k
Can you give me some more info on the pins to move for the maf to read correctly.
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Old 03-24-11, 08:01 AM   #14
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Also, what is everyone doing as far as shift lock goes? I was just thinking of taking the locking mechanish off so i dont have to press that stupid button every time i want to take it out of park.
Had the same tach and shift lock issues. I spoke to SlvrGS300 and he sent me a few pics which were deleted from my inbox. I'm not much of a gear head, but my mechanic hooked them up and it took care of the shift lock and the tach. Seng him a msg.
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Old 03-24-11, 10:37 AM   #15
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I just made me an intake from some old tubing i had laying around. Unfortunately i did not recieve an oem air box with my swap. I though of using my original one but since im running the side mount intercooler it does not clear. Do you think my diy intake my be the cause of the bogging?
That's what I mean, use your original one, that could be it.
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Old 03-24-11, 10:37 AM
 
 
 
 
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2003, 2jz, 2jzgte, 99, dett, driveshaft, fal, fit, gs300, intercooler, jdm, lexus, maf, sidemount, swap, vvti

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