Bdailey32

I have both ECU the one with and the one without the immobilzer and it still wont start unless its with the GE ecu. You think it could be the key that isnt starting the car because its not programmed to the new ecu?

I have ecu part number:
89661-3A470 and
89666-30180

Also a question for the fuel return line.
Does anyone have a picture of how they tapped into the tank for the fuel return line?

Toughtruck

Hey Guys,

After finishing my swap, connecting everything up, new spark plugs, oil/oil filter, transmission fluid, using the aristo fuel pump, car cranked, and ran like a champion. So, I followed a member who recommended swapping the pins on the grey plug on the aristo harness to make the shift lock/release, and the tach to work, which worked, but weird enough it would not fire up, and run any longer . I verified the crank, cam sensors are functioning. Verified there is 12volts to the injectors. Pulled the new plugs, and they were dark black on all 6. I couldn't imagine the timing getting off somehow, but what ideas do you guys have? I'm all out at this point, here's a video of what it is doing now. Any ideas, advice would be appreciated, thanks!

Mr.Gs_GTE

I would recommend verifying the pins you had swapped for the shift lock. There could be a chance it wasn't done correctly.
If you replaced the spark plugs, check the numbering for the ignition coils as well and make sure you have the correct connectors plugged into each coils as it can be easy to mix up the ignition coils which can mess with the firing order. Just a thought.
Also try to do a code count and see what code is in the system.
Are you using the gte maf?
Make sure that intake hose for the maf sensor is fitted on the intake properly because if the ecu is not reading the proper air intake volume through the maf sensor the car may not run.
I also noticed the intercooler piping off the throttle body. I would also recommend connecting the intake. It may be readying the air intake at the maf sensor but the air going through the throttle body is not the same as what it is reading at the sensor and this could cause your idle issues.



QUOTE=Toughtruck;9147014]Hey Guys,

After finishing my swap, connecting everything up, new spark plugs, oil/oil filter, transmission fluid, using the aristo fuel pump, car cranked, and ran like a champion. So, I followed a member who recommended swapping the pins on the grey plug on the aristo harness to make the shift lock/release, and the tach to work, which worked, but weird enough it would not fire up, and run any longer . I verified the crank, cam sensors are functioning. Verified there is 12volts to the injectors. Pulled the new plugs, and they were dark black on all 6. I couldn't imagine the timing getting off somehow, but what ideas do you guys have? I'm all out at this point, here's a video of what it is doing now. Any ideas, advice would be appreciated, thanks!


[/QUOTE]

Toughtruck

-On the pins I reverted them back to the way they were before changing them, and nothing changed still wouldn't run any longer. I will most likely try to swap a couple of the pins around to ensure I didn't put it back in the wrong order. I couldn't imagine this being the culprit seeing as it's for the tach, shift lock/release.

-I'll double check the ignition coils, but I made sure I put them back like they were when it started up, and ran initially. I put brand new iridiums in the car before starting it initially, and it ran. Since it wouldn't start I put my laser plugs in there with another set of coils, and wires altogether still nothing.

-I do have the GTE maf, but for cranking, and letting the car idle purposes I don't have any piping connected for the intake yet.

-I see what you're saying there about the maf, and intake. Although like in the video it will not run at all without giving it throttle, but it dies out immediately thereafter it sounds strange. Exhaust has a strong smell to it.

-I'll upload the video of how it ran initially before all this came about. It would point to the change of the grey aristo plug, but it seems deeper than just that.



[/QUOTE]

Toughtruck

Below is the video showing how it ran before it would not run again. Also can you guys take a picture of your grey aristo plug front, and back to cross reference it with mine by chance, Thanks.

Mr.Gs_GTE

I see you are single, check the fitment of the filter/ plug you got on the IAC valve. Make sure it is on there properly. If that don't work, have somebody choke the filter a bit, or with your hand reduce the amount of air it sucks in as somebody crank the car over. Sometimes it takes a few tries for the iac to learn the flow. Do that and let me know what happenns. If it starts with your hand around the filter, don't let go right away, give it a min or two just so the ecu can learn the flow. Also don't hit the throttle if you are doing this. Slowly let go after a few mins and let the car idle by itself for 2-3 mins. Then shut it it off and start it again to verify it learned the idle air volume.
Did you check for codes?

Toughtruck

Thanks Mr. Gs_GTE I'm presently on the road traveling, but when I return I'll give this a try. Also I'll pull what codes it may be giving off also, and will report them back here. You have any info on your grey plug by chance?

AMA0627

Hey guys, I've been searching this for a couple days now with no result. Has anyone documente process for repining or jumping the orange and grey or black plugs for the shift lock problem and the limp mode problem? Not sure if they coincide but I'm having a problem with both.

Car is a 98 GS300 with a 1jz VVTi swap. Starts and idles perfectly, but I don't have a TACH signal, car acts like it's in a limp mode and shift lock does not work.

Any help would be super appreciated!!! I've noticed a few people in this thread ask the same questions with no answers yet, so I know answering this would greatly help the CL community!

Thank you in advance,
Adam

Toughtruck

Greetings Everyone,

I've got my swap in everything connected. I have a rev limit of around 3500RPM I'm guessing seeing as I don't have my tach working yet, but I have two codes 21 for O2 Sensor, and 31 for Mass Air Flow Circuit. Does anyone have any insight on what is causing this? I bought a 2nd MAF connected it with no success still same code 31. The new MAF was said to be tested verified working. Searched another forum guy had the rev limit issue, bought a new MAF issue solved.

Thanks in advance!

AMA0627

Hi I was able to pull the codes on mine also and came up with 21, 31, 75. I don't know what the 75 is yet but trying to work the other two. I have a 1jz jzx110 swap and i'm not quite sure where to buy a maf for it. Any ideas?

Toughtruck

How's it going AMA, here are the answers to your codes. As far as the MAF goes I have 1 on had that I do not need bought a new one to test with, check your part numbers, and we'll see if this one is interchangeable with yours my part number is 22204-46010. I cannot figure out whats up with my MAF the possibilities of 2 being bad are slim, I used a multimeter to check for voltage, and earth both showed up, but when I checked volts with the car running it stayed around 1.5volts or so.

Code Description Causes
21 Main Oxygen Sensor Circuit -Open or short in heater circuit of main oxygen
Easy to just buy a new one. sensor
-main oxygen sensor
-main oxygen sensor circuit
-main oxygen sensor heater
-ECU

31 Air Flow (or MAP) Meter Circuit -Open or short in airflow meter (or MAP sensor) circuit
-airflow meter (or MAP sensor)
-ECU

75 Does not exist 78 does.

SBM2jLEX

Im glad to see this thread is still going!!!

Hello everyone

Sorry i dont check back to this thread that often as i been doing some work to my 240. But the Lexus still lives and will be getting a second wind soon!

SBM2jLEX

try driftmotion for your maf needs. they may be able to help or point you in the right direction. Theyre JZ Gods.

SBM2jLEX

A little update.

The car was running fine for years. Drove the car all the way to my new home in California from Texas. The gas here sucks! Definitely noticed a difference from the 93 to the 91 here.
Anyway, a few months passed and my car is having problems! The car is going into limp mode, and I am getting no pedal response until the last 10% of the pedal. Jumpered the wires in the engine bay to get a code and I got a APPS code. After more research I found out that the throttle body works as a system with the TPS, APPS, and the throttle motor. (2jzgarage has a lot of good info!)
After searching high and low and purchasing the correct JDM APPS through a broker and waiting months for it to arrive, I plugged it in and still got the same results... I was almost at a standstill. I sucked it up and started looking at the other components in the system and found an issue with the TPS. I replaced the TPS and voila. The car is back to normal and running great!
Even though I initially got a code for the APPS, it ended up being the TPS that was bad. Tricky little system but I'm glad it all worked out!

hcharlesc3

iTrader: (4)

Glad its running good again! Same thing happened to me a few months back.