JDM 2jzgte vvti swap GS300
12-25-12, 05:24 AM
#167
What symptoms are you getting? And how positive are you the jdm trac ecu is the cause? Besides what year is your gs?
12-27-12, 10:39 PM
#168
Just wanted to throw a question out to some of you. With this swap, what did you guys do about the exhaust? Did your swaps come with headers and you fabbed from the header back? Where is the secondary fuel line off the pump connected to on the engine? I am looking at a swap that has all of the.essential parts. Motor,ecu, ignitor, trans, driveshaft, intercooler, and rear diff.
01-06-13, 09:20 PM
#169
Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: TX
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On another point - Is there a good alternative to a walbro pump that isn't so noisy? Also, anyone have any info on the shop that SBM2jLEX was talking about?
04-02-13, 08:04 PM
#170
Driver
Thread Starter
From what I've read/heard, models early than 01 wiring actually isn't bad at all. Just something with the Tach wire that needs to be changed.
On another point - Is there a good alternative to a walbro pump that isn't so noisy? Also, anyone have any info on the shop that SBM2jLEX was talking about?
On another point - Is there a good alternative to a walbro pump that isn't so noisy? Also, anyone have any info on the shop that SBM2jLEX was talking about?
08-12-13, 07:33 PM
#171
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
are you saying use the orange and black covers from the gs and use it with the orange and gray plugs on the aristo?
08-12-13, 07:37 PM
#172
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
whats up everybody im new to this forum but i have visited these threads hundreds of times. actually some of u guys here helped me out for than u know although i spent countless hours searching in th end i did find all the answers i was looking for and succesfully installed my 2jzgte vvti in my 01 gs3.... however i have a prob with the tranny. ect power light is blinking once every two seconds vcs lights are on and the tranny shifts kinda funny first is very long second is normal but third gear kicks in and it right away goes into fourth gear. i've checked all the fluid levels and they are fine... can anyone help me? or point in the right direction? i appreciate it. thanks in advance
to move pins on the gray plug, because I didnt have a shift lock when
i turned it on. the car runs and everything. I have several lights on
and I know i have to pull the vcs bulbs but my windshield washer light
is on but I topped it off, my oil light is on and when I go over a
certain rpm my check engine comes on and stays on until I shut off the
car and its off again when i turn it back on also my ECT starts
flashing when my check engine light goes on. once the check engine
turns on. the car shifts early and down shift quick when i get off the
gas. It seems to bog if I floor it and when that happens it feels
like im just making noise and not really going anywhere like a civic
lol. I havent run my tach wire yet so cant really reference any rpms
but if i floor it and it reaches a certain rpm it will bog and i wont
accelerate. Are these the simptons of limp mode and if so wich wires
do i move to and where do they go on the gray plug. I still need to run my
tach line will that fix any other lights on the dash or just make the
tach work? And do i just cut and soder the wire to where it goes on
the body plug? thanks again for the help.
08-20-13, 09:20 PM
#173
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi,
I`ve read topic twice, but got some misunderstandings,
after swap my VSC and TRC OFF light on, so all I need to do is get Aristos TRC ECU ???
another problem is
rev.counter shows too much revs.
, its because i`m using GS430 body.
Car starts fine, warms up a little then idle is so low ~300rpm, lots of misfire-> exhaust smells like its full of fuel.
I can hear throttle body valve is trying to sort it out, opens and closes each second.
Pressing on accelerator causes even more misfire, but if i pass 2500rpm, revs fine, no problem.
Hitting 5000rpm, check engine light comes on and green ECT-power begins flashing.
Diagnostic shows error code 42, vehicle speed sensor ??? wtf.
I`ve read topic twice, but got some misunderstandings,
after swap my VSC and TRC OFF light on, so all I need to do is get Aristos TRC ECU ???
another problem is
rev.counter shows too much revs.
, its because i`m using GS430 body.Car starts fine, warms up a little then idle is so low ~300rpm, lots of misfire-> exhaust smells like its full of fuel.
I can hear throttle body valve is trying to sort it out, opens and closes each second.
Pressing on accelerator causes even more misfire, but if i pass 2500rpm, revs fine, no problem.
Hitting 5000rpm, check engine light comes on and green ECT-power begins flashing.
Diagnostic shows error code 42, vehicle speed sensor ??? wtf.
09-17-13, 10:46 AM
#174
After swapping, I have no ABS. Is there away to get the ABS system back fully functioning without having the JDM module? I've been looking for the computer for two weeks now and seems like they aren't easy to come by.
02-22-14, 07:50 PM
#176
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No problem..
1. Throttle cable must be replaced. I went with one from a supra.
2. Driveshafts are different. I thought it may be just as simple as changing yokes but it wasnt. The US yoke will not work on the jdm tranny. I ended up using my aristo driveshaft even though it was a tad shorter.
3. The jdm exhaust manifold has a bulge that is directly in the way of the heater core lines. I ended up getting my manifold notched and reinforced so i could hook up the lines properly. AC works great!!!
4. You need to use the jdm ignitor with the swap. The only thing to do here is to make the tach work. 1 wire must be added in. On the jdm ignitor the 3rd plug from the left is empty. You can take the old wire(green) thats in the same spot on your old ignitor out and place it in the slot thats open on the jdm ignitor (3rd from left). Connect that wire to the black/yellow wire that is on a white plug closest to the front of the car in the ecu box. The black/yellow wire should be the second to the left on the top row.
5. I used the jdm MAF so no need to rewire anything there.
6. You will need to run a fuel return line. I did a 5/16 barb fitting for the hard line coming from the motor and connected it to a 3/8 barb fitting. I connected a -6ss line to the fitting and ran it all the way back along side of the feed line. The fuel pump assembly i used was also from an aristo so it had fittings for feed and return already on top. I did not do the JPK but i did swap out the pump with a walbro 255
7. Since i was doing the JDM swap the bolt pattern off the turbo is a very odd 3 bolt. I ended up going with a 3" supra downpipe. I added in a flex pipe just for added security. With a little bending, extending, and a new flange i couldnt be happier. You will also want to upgrade your cat-back exhaust. I went with a 3" with no cats for that nice free flow lol.
1. Throttle cable must be replaced. I went with one from a supra.
2. Driveshafts are different. I thought it may be just as simple as changing yokes but it wasnt. The US yoke will not work on the jdm tranny. I ended up using my aristo driveshaft even though it was a tad shorter.
3. The jdm exhaust manifold has a bulge that is directly in the way of the heater core lines. I ended up getting my manifold notched and reinforced so i could hook up the lines properly. AC works great!!!
4. You need to use the jdm ignitor with the swap. The only thing to do here is to make the tach work. 1 wire must be added in. On the jdm ignitor the 3rd plug from the left is empty. You can take the old wire(green) thats in the same spot on your old ignitor out and place it in the slot thats open on the jdm ignitor (3rd from left). Connect that wire to the black/yellow wire that is on a white plug closest to the front of the car in the ecu box. The black/yellow wire should be the second to the left on the top row.
5. I used the jdm MAF so no need to rewire anything there.
6. You will need to run a fuel return line. I did a 5/16 barb fitting for the hard line coming from the motor and connected it to a 3/8 barb fitting. I connected a -6ss line to the fitting and ran it all the way back along side of the feed line. The fuel pump assembly i used was also from an aristo so it had fittings for feed and return already on top. I did not do the JPK but i did swap out the pump with a walbro 255
7. Since i was doing the JDM swap the bolt pattern off the turbo is a very odd 3 bolt. I ended up going with a 3" supra downpipe. I added in a flex pipe just for added security. With a little bending, extending, and a new flange i couldnt be happier. You will also want to upgrade your cat-back exhaust. I went with a 3" with no cats for that nice free flow lol.
02-24-14, 04:53 PM
#177
Ive read all these threads word for word and it is awesome information. The only information not listed is the rewire for the grey and orange plugs if our motor sets didnt come with the jumper caps. Does anyone here have the rewire schematics for the orange and grey jumpers caps they can share?? I know there is a picture in another build thread but doesnt show which wires to repin.
I have been collecting information so when I come back home(im in the Army and far away) I can do the swap in a weekend. I have everything except the LSD diff and fuel system. thanks in advance.
I have been collecting information so when I come back home(im in the Army and far away) I can do the swap in a weekend. I have everything except the LSD diff and fuel system. thanks in advance.
03-13-14, 06:47 AM
#178
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: nm
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ive read all these threads word for word and it is awesome information. The only information not listed is the rewire for the grey and orange plugs if our motor sets didnt come with the jumper caps. Does anyone here have the rewire schematics for the orange and grey jumpers caps they can share?? I know there is a picture in another build thread but doesnt show which wires to repin.
05-21-14, 05:27 AM
#179
gte & na-t
iTrader: (44)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maryland /Germantown
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Doing one right now helping a friend, Ill post some pics .
So if I understood correctly the only thing that needs wiring is the tach ? because the the ge vvti has 10 I/O and the gte vvti has 9 and the tach wire is what's missing.
Thanks for all the infos.
So if I understood correctly the only thing that needs wiring is the tach ? because the the ge vvti has 10 I/O and the gte vvti has 9 and the tach wire is what's missing.
Thanks for all the infos.
