I'm still confused on how dynoing our car in snow mode gives an accurate reading
Snow mode makes the car seem slower since the transmission behavior and throttle sensitivity is different, but it does NOT reduce power at WOT. If you manually select 4th gear, then get up to a speed on the dyno that it changes to 4th gear, you can go full throttle at ~2500 RPMs, and it won't downshift. I have proven this via CAN bus, accelleration plots, and dyno tests. Any person who dyno's in PWR mode, is doing it wrong.
Uh, what? Snow mode keeps it from downshifting, which is what gives a most definite inaccurate reading. Not sure what you're getting at.
Can you elaborate on your response. Sorry, not following you..
My understanding is to dyno in snow mode so you can floor it sooner and not worry about a downshift. I guess once you hit ~5500RPMs you could switch snow off. Not sure it will make much difference though.
__________________ JB
'07 Obsidian Black/Black IS350X (X-package (chrome 5-spoke wheels), premium package, preferred package, nav, front lip spoiler, rear spoiler, full custom exhaust, F-Sport cold air intake, PPE headers, 286rwhp/246ft.lbs)
'97 Silver/Black Prelude Type SH (AEM Cold Air Intake) - SOLD
Can you elaborate on your response. Sorry, not following you..
My understanding is to dyno in snow mode so you can floor it sooner and not worry about a downshift. I guess once you hit ~5500RPMs you could switch snow off. Not sure it will make much difference though.
That's what he's saying.
A downshift will give you an inaccurate dnyo, hence you should use snow mode to avoid that happening.
There's no reason at all to turn snow mode off, it has no impact on the amount of power the engine is producing.
__________________
2008 IS350 - Black Sapphire Pearl/Cashmere - Sport Package, Mark Levinson (no nav), XM, Tanabe Exhaust, F-Sport Intake and Sway Bars
Can you elaborate on your response. Sorry, not following you..
My understanding is to dyno in snow mode so you can floor it sooner and not worry about a downshift. I guess once you hit ~5500RPMs you could switch snow off. Not sure it will make much difference though.
I'm not sure what you're wanting me to elaborate on man. Dynos need a 1:1 ratio gear to get an honest reading. If you're pulling the rollers and then all of a sudden downshift, increasing your tires' rotation speed, you're going to throw the numbers way off. They'll read higher than what they're supposed to. I'm not going to waste time getting into the physics of it, but that's the way it is. Here, take this dumbass for example: he posts a vid of his 350 with Legalis R exhaust and a JoeZ intake claiming 303rwhp.
I'm not sure what you're wanting me to elaborate on man. Dynos need a 1:1 ratio gear to get an honest reading. If you're pulling the rollers and then all of a sudden downshift, increasing your tires' rotation speed, you're going to throw the numbers way off. They'll read higher than what they're supposed to. I'm not going to waste time getting into the physics of it, but that's the way it is. Here, take this dumbass for example: he posts a vid of his 350 with Legalis R exhaust and a JoeZ intake claiming 303rwhp.
Totally off considering an intake, exhaust and PPE headers car made 281rwhp.
You don't have to have a 1:1 ratio for valid dyno results, but anything above or below that will show slightly more drivetrain loss. The dyno adjusts the power numbers based on calculated gearing from the wheel speed and engine RPM.
Most performance mods need a watch and timed course to demonstrate actual improvement. Few deliver the advertised claims. Many are actually worse than stock. The best performance mods are made to the driver.
Emotional arguments - They're not just for chicks anymore.
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