GS300 exhaust/header/hp upgrade final answers
04-02-09, 04:50 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
GS300 exhaust/header/hp upgrade final answers
Okay, I've been reading all the different threads on header and exhaust, and really would like to try and get some highlights/clarifications/confirmations together, hopefully this isn't beating a dead horse too bad. My hope is that you guys who really have a lot of experience can confirm some of the stuff, and more than one person will answer the gray area stuff..
I looked at the "look here first" thread, and also did several searches over the last couple weeks on exhaust and headers and intakes, so if I've made a huge oversight, blame my competence, not my effort
Please correct me if needed and/or reference other threads.
Okay so first, this is the stuff that seems pretty certain and clear:
1) The IS300 header fits, but the IS300 Y-pipe is too short, but can be lengthened by a muffler shop.
2) The short headers are better (than long pipe headers) for lower end RPM gains but still does sacrifice lower end hp compared to stock.
3) a)The longer headers (like the IS300 types I see in DYI's) are better for top end hp. (3b--And these seem to be about half the price of the GS300 headers)
4) The headers and cold air intakes are the quickest/best bolt on HP.
5) Headers (especially IS300/ eg OBX style) sacrifice lower end HP/esp at takeoff.
6) Plan on getting hardware from the dealership for exhaust work.
7) Cold air intakes sacrifices some lower end hp/responsiveness.
8) The GS300 gets significantly louder with the headers added.
9) A cold air intake will add to the sound volume increase.
10) When adding the header, the O2 sim is needed to turn off the engine codes, (and engine service light) but is not needed for the engine to run properly.
11) If you have a GS300 and want *substantially* more power, it is debatable whether it is more cost effective to add a turbo (the "right way") or sell and buy a GS400/430.
Now, here are some of the gray area stuff, that has been touched on, but didn't seem really clear to me. I'm hoping after one person responds, some more can concur or suggest whether it's debatable or not... Also, some elaboration/clarification as to whether each point is completely a matter of opinion, or if someone could quantify their perspective would be great. My position is, I'd like to get some more hp, as long as I HAVE to get the bad cats out anyway. However, my GS is my daily driver, to the tune of 130 miles per day or more, so I don't want to do anything that will be a *big* risk to force me into repairs that are out of my budget, or take it out of commission until I have multiple days to spend working morning until night to correct. I don't have a couple grand laying around "just in case".
1) How does adding a header and/or an air intake affect life of the engine?
2) How necessary, with regards to engine longevity, is a fuel management system if the only mods are header (with O2 sim) and/or cold air intake?
3) Where does the engine get the data for feedback into the system controlling the A/F ratio? Is this from the front O2 sensor? If so, then is the purpose of the O2 sensors after the cats solely for monitoring the condition of the cats? Seems like there was some mention of if it runs leaner then the engine can go bad early, or burn up a cylinder if an injector gets clogged, but I couldn't find where that was again, so that may have been associated with some completely different change.
4) Are there any problems with cracks in headers in the GS300? Seems like there has been lots of problems with GS400 headers, but haven't seen anything in the threads with GS300 (/IS300 headers on GS300s) with cracking.
5) Has anyone put high-flow cats on? how do these compare to headers as far as power and sound?
6) When putting a header on, how much added benefit is there to adding the Y-pipe?
7) will the GS300 OBX ypipe fit up to the IS300 headers? I assume if the IS300 headers fit the stock Ypipe, then the Y pipe (megan brand?) will fit an IS300 header.
8) What can be done to help insulate the header? Heat shield, ceramic coating/spray, insulation tape. How much of a benefit is this? Any cons on wrapping this in exhaust tape? Heat shield to deflect heat from the intake tube?
9) How significant is the volume after adding headers? and after adding headers and a cold air intake (a cheap one, K&N maybe). I'm not too concerned with the sound difference when you floor it and it shifts down to get around someone. I'm more interested in the difference if it's in cruise control going 65mph (2 lane road 60 minute commute to work) and 80-85 mph (interstate), and idling at red lights.
As it stands right now, at least one of my cats is bad. code 430, and about a week later the car got slower and slower over about 200 miles of driving, and now only goes about 20 mph. Not sure which cat is bad. I would like to put the IS300 header on (longer pipes, so top end gain... I am fine on take off acceleration, but would like a little more power for passing on 2-lane roads here in KY, plus it's about $200 cheaper than the GS300 headers I've seen), the O2 sim, a K&N cold air intake, and leave the Y-pipe stock, unless I can find the GS300 OBX Y-pipe stock and can confirm that it bolts up.
I don't mind if the car isn't silent anymore, but generally I've not been thrilled with the sound of a loud 6 cylinder engine. If on cruise control going 65 mph it sounds mostly the same as stock, then I don't mind if it's louder when I shift down to pass someone. In Kentucky, there is no smog test it has to pass. The 'inspection' when buying an out of state car consists of verifying the VIN on the car matches the paperwork. So, when it comes to headers, I do what I want. heh heh.
Sorry if this has jumped around a lot, hoping to get most of the exhaust highlights all gathered together in one thread plus some extra info.
Thanks!!!!!
I looked at the "look here first" thread, and also did several searches over the last couple weeks on exhaust and headers and intakes, so if I've made a huge oversight, blame my competence, not my effort
Please correct me if needed and/or reference other threads.
Okay so first, this is the stuff that seems pretty certain and clear:
1) The IS300 header fits, but the IS300 Y-pipe is too short, but can be lengthened by a muffler shop.
2) The short headers are better (than long pipe headers) for lower end RPM gains but still does sacrifice lower end hp compared to stock.
3) a)The longer headers (like the IS300 types I see in DYI's) are better for top end hp. (3b--And these seem to be about half the price of the GS300 headers)
4) The headers and cold air intakes are the quickest/best bolt on HP.
5) Headers (especially IS300/ eg OBX style) sacrifice lower end HP/esp at takeoff.
6) Plan on getting hardware from the dealership for exhaust work.
7) Cold air intakes sacrifices some lower end hp/responsiveness.
8) The GS300 gets significantly louder with the headers added.
9) A cold air intake will add to the sound volume increase.
10) When adding the header, the O2 sim is needed to turn off the engine codes, (and engine service light) but is not needed for the engine to run properly.
11) If you have a GS300 and want *substantially* more power, it is debatable whether it is more cost effective to add a turbo (the "right way") or sell and buy a GS400/430.
Now, here are some of the gray area stuff, that has been touched on, but didn't seem really clear to me. I'm hoping after one person responds, some more can concur or suggest whether it's debatable or not... Also, some elaboration/clarification as to whether each point is completely a matter of opinion, or if someone could quantify their perspective would be great. My position is, I'd like to get some more hp, as long as I HAVE to get the bad cats out anyway. However, my GS is my daily driver, to the tune of 130 miles per day or more, so I don't want to do anything that will be a *big* risk to force me into repairs that are out of my budget, or take it out of commission until I have multiple days to spend working morning until night to correct. I don't have a couple grand laying around "just in case".
1) How does adding a header and/or an air intake affect life of the engine?
2) How necessary, with regards to engine longevity, is a fuel management system if the only mods are header (with O2 sim) and/or cold air intake?
3) Where does the engine get the data for feedback into the system controlling the A/F ratio? Is this from the front O2 sensor? If so, then is the purpose of the O2 sensors after the cats solely for monitoring the condition of the cats? Seems like there was some mention of if it runs leaner then the engine can go bad early, or burn up a cylinder if an injector gets clogged, but I couldn't find where that was again, so that may have been associated with some completely different change.
4) Are there any problems with cracks in headers in the GS300? Seems like there has been lots of problems with GS400 headers, but haven't seen anything in the threads with GS300 (/IS300 headers on GS300s) with cracking.
5) Has anyone put high-flow cats on? how do these compare to headers as far as power and sound?
6) When putting a header on, how much added benefit is there to adding the Y-pipe?
7) will the GS300 OBX ypipe fit up to the IS300 headers? I assume if the IS300 headers fit the stock Ypipe, then the Y pipe (megan brand?) will fit an IS300 header.
8) What can be done to help insulate the header? Heat shield, ceramic coating/spray, insulation tape. How much of a benefit is this? Any cons on wrapping this in exhaust tape? Heat shield to deflect heat from the intake tube?
9) How significant is the volume after adding headers? and after adding headers and a cold air intake (a cheap one, K&N maybe). I'm not too concerned with the sound difference when you floor it and it shifts down to get around someone. I'm more interested in the difference if it's in cruise control going 65mph (2 lane road 60 minute commute to work) and 80-85 mph (interstate), and idling at red lights.
As it stands right now, at least one of my cats is bad. code 430, and about a week later the car got slower and slower over about 200 miles of driving, and now only goes about 20 mph. Not sure which cat is bad. I would like to put the IS300 header on (longer pipes, so top end gain... I am fine on take off acceleration, but would like a little more power for passing on 2-lane roads here in KY, plus it's about $200 cheaper than the GS300 headers I've seen), the O2 sim, a K&N cold air intake, and leave the Y-pipe stock, unless I can find the GS300 OBX Y-pipe stock and can confirm that it bolts up.
I don't mind if the car isn't silent anymore, but generally I've not been thrilled with the sound of a loud 6 cylinder engine. If on cruise control going 65 mph it sounds mostly the same as stock, then I don't mind if it's louder when I shift down to pass someone. In Kentucky, there is no smog test it has to pass. The 'inspection' when buying an out of state car consists of verifying the VIN on the car matches the paperwork. So, when it comes to headers, I do what I want. heh heh.
Sorry if this has jumped around a lot, hoping to get most of the exhaust highlights all gathered together in one thread plus some extra info.
Thanks!!!!!
04-03-09, 10:46 AM
#2
Okay, I've been reading all the different threads on header and exhaust, and really would like to try and get some highlights/clarifications/confirmations together, hopefully this isn't beating a dead horse too bad. My hope is that you guys who really have a lot of experience can confirm some of the stuff, and more than one person will answer the gray area stuff..
I looked at the "look here first" thread, and also did several searches over the last couple weeks on exhaust and headers and intakes, so if I've made a huge oversight, blame my competence, not my effort
Please correct me if needed and/or reference other threads.
Okay so first, this is the stuff that seems pretty certain and clear:
1) The IS300 header fits, but the IS300 Y-pipe is too short, but can be lengthened by a muffler shop.
2) The short headers are better (than long pipe headers) for lower end RPM gains but still does sacrifice lower end hp compared to stock.
3) a)The longer headers (like the IS300 types I see in DYI's) are better for top end hp. (3b--And these seem to be about half the price of the GS300 headers)
4) The headers and cold air intakes are the quickest/best bolt on HP.
5) Headers (especially IS300/ eg OBX style) sacrifice lower end HP/esp at takeoff.
6) Plan on getting hardware from the dealership for exhaust work.
7) Cold air intakes sacrifices some lower end hp/responsiveness.
8) The GS300 gets significantly louder with the headers added.
9) A cold air intake will add to the sound volume increase.
10) When adding the header, the O2 sim is needed to turn off the engine codes, (and engine service light) but is not needed for the engine to run properly.
11) If you have a GS300 and want *substantially* more power, it is debatable whether it is more cost effective to add a turbo (the "right way") or sell and buy a GS400/430.
Now, here are some of the gray area stuff, that has been touched on, but didn't seem really clear to me. I'm hoping after one person responds, some more can concur or suggest whether it's debatable or not... Also, some elaboration/clarification as to whether each point is completely a matter of opinion, or if someone could quantify their perspective would be great. My position is, I'd like to get some more hp, as long as I HAVE to get the bad cats out anyway. However, my GS is my daily driver, to the tune of 130 miles per day or more, so I don't want to do anything that will be a *big* risk to force me into repairs that are out of my budget, or take it out of commission until I have multiple days to spend working morning until night to correct. I don't have a couple grand laying around "just in case".
1) How does adding a header and/or an air intake affect life of the engine?
2) How necessary, with regards to engine longevity, is a fuel management system if the only mods are header (with O2 sim) and/or cold air intake?
3) Where does the engine get the data for feedback into the system controlling the A/F ratio? Is this from the front O2 sensor? If so, then is the purpose of the O2 sensors after the cats solely for monitoring the condition of the cats? Seems like there was some mention of if it runs leaner then the engine can go bad early, or burn up a cylinder if an injector gets clogged, but I couldn't find where that was again, so that may have been associated with some completely different change.
4) Are there any problems with cracks in headers in the GS300? Seems like there has been lots of problems with GS400 headers, but haven't seen anything in the threads with GS300 (/IS300 headers on GS300s) with cracking.
5) Has anyone put high-flow cats on? how do these compare to headers as far as power and sound?
6) When putting a header on, how much added benefit is there to adding the Y-pipe?
7) will the GS300 OBX ypipe fit up to the IS300 headers? I assume if the IS300 headers fit the stock Ypipe, then the Y pipe (megan brand?) will fit an IS300 header.
8) What can be done to help insulate the header? Heat shield, ceramic coating/spray, insulation tape. How much of a benefit is this? Any cons on wrapping this in exhaust tape? Heat shield to deflect heat from the intake tube?
9) How significant is the volume after adding headers? and after adding headers and a cold air intake (a cheap one, K&N maybe). I'm not too concerned with the sound difference when you floor it and it shifts down to get around someone. I'm more interested in the difference if it's in cruise control going 65mph (2 lane road 60 minute commute to work) and 80-85 mph (interstate), and idling at red lights.
As it stands right now, at least one of my cats is bad. code 430, and about a week later the car got slower and slower over about 200 miles of driving, and now only goes about 20 mph. Not sure which cat is bad. I would like to put the IS300 header on (longer pipes, so top end gain... I am fine on take off acceleration, but would like a little more power for passing on 2-lane roads here in KY, plus it's about $200 cheaper than the GS300 headers I've seen), the O2 sim, a K&N cold air intake, and leave the Y-pipe stock, unless I can find the GS300 OBX Y-pipe stock and can confirm that it bolts up.
I don't mind if the car isn't silent anymore, but generally I've not been thrilled with the sound of a loud 6 cylinder engine. If on cruise control going 65 mph it sounds mostly the same as stock, then I don't mind if it's louder when I shift down to pass someone. In Kentucky, there is no smog test it has to pass. The 'inspection' when buying an out of state car consists of verifying the VIN on the car matches the paperwork. So, when it comes to headers, I do what I want. heh heh.
Sorry if this has jumped around a lot, hoping to get most of the exhaust highlights all gathered together in one thread plus some extra info.
Thanks!!!!!
I looked at the "look here first" thread, and also did several searches over the last couple weeks on exhaust and headers and intakes, so if I've made a huge oversight, blame my competence, not my effort
Please correct me if needed and/or reference other threads.
Okay so first, this is the stuff that seems pretty certain and clear:
1) The IS300 header fits, but the IS300 Y-pipe is too short, but can be lengthened by a muffler shop.
2) The short headers are better (than long pipe headers) for lower end RPM gains but still does sacrifice lower end hp compared to stock.
3) a)The longer headers (like the IS300 types I see in DYI's) are better for top end hp. (3b--And these seem to be about half the price of the GS300 headers)
4) The headers and cold air intakes are the quickest/best bolt on HP.
5) Headers (especially IS300/ eg OBX style) sacrifice lower end HP/esp at takeoff.
6) Plan on getting hardware from the dealership for exhaust work.
7) Cold air intakes sacrifices some lower end hp/responsiveness.
8) The GS300 gets significantly louder with the headers added.
9) A cold air intake will add to the sound volume increase.
10) When adding the header, the O2 sim is needed to turn off the engine codes, (and engine service light) but is not needed for the engine to run properly.
11) If you have a GS300 and want *substantially* more power, it is debatable whether it is more cost effective to add a turbo (the "right way") or sell and buy a GS400/430.
Now, here are some of the gray area stuff, that has been touched on, but didn't seem really clear to me. I'm hoping after one person responds, some more can concur or suggest whether it's debatable or not... Also, some elaboration/clarification as to whether each point is completely a matter of opinion, or if someone could quantify their perspective would be great. My position is, I'd like to get some more hp, as long as I HAVE to get the bad cats out anyway. However, my GS is my daily driver, to the tune of 130 miles per day or more, so I don't want to do anything that will be a *big* risk to force me into repairs that are out of my budget, or take it out of commission until I have multiple days to spend working morning until night to correct. I don't have a couple grand laying around "just in case".
1) How does adding a header and/or an air intake affect life of the engine?
2) How necessary, with regards to engine longevity, is a fuel management system if the only mods are header (with O2 sim) and/or cold air intake?
3) Where does the engine get the data for feedback into the system controlling the A/F ratio? Is this from the front O2 sensor? If so, then is the purpose of the O2 sensors after the cats solely for monitoring the condition of the cats? Seems like there was some mention of if it runs leaner then the engine can go bad early, or burn up a cylinder if an injector gets clogged, but I couldn't find where that was again, so that may have been associated with some completely different change.
4) Are there any problems with cracks in headers in the GS300? Seems like there has been lots of problems with GS400 headers, but haven't seen anything in the threads with GS300 (/IS300 headers on GS300s) with cracking.
5) Has anyone put high-flow cats on? how do these compare to headers as far as power and sound?
6) When putting a header on, how much added benefit is there to adding the Y-pipe?
7) will the GS300 OBX ypipe fit up to the IS300 headers? I assume if the IS300 headers fit the stock Ypipe, then the Y pipe (megan brand?) will fit an IS300 header.
8) What can be done to help insulate the header? Heat shield, ceramic coating/spray, insulation tape. How much of a benefit is this? Any cons on wrapping this in exhaust tape? Heat shield to deflect heat from the intake tube?
9) How significant is the volume after adding headers? and after adding headers and a cold air intake (a cheap one, K&N maybe). I'm not too concerned with the sound difference when you floor it and it shifts down to get around someone. I'm more interested in the difference if it's in cruise control going 65mph (2 lane road 60 minute commute to work) and 80-85 mph (interstate), and idling at red lights.
As it stands right now, at least one of my cats is bad. code 430, and about a week later the car got slower and slower over about 200 miles of driving, and now only goes about 20 mph. Not sure which cat is bad. I would like to put the IS300 header on (longer pipes, so top end gain... I am fine on take off acceleration, but would like a little more power for passing on 2-lane roads here in KY, plus it's about $200 cheaper than the GS300 headers I've seen), the O2 sim, a K&N cold air intake, and leave the Y-pipe stock, unless I can find the GS300 OBX Y-pipe stock and can confirm that it bolts up.
I don't mind if the car isn't silent anymore, but generally I've not been thrilled with the sound of a loud 6 cylinder engine. If on cruise control going 65 mph it sounds mostly the same as stock, then I don't mind if it's louder when I shift down to pass someone. In Kentucky, there is no smog test it has to pass. The 'inspection' when buying an out of state car consists of verifying the VIN on the car matches the paperwork. So, when it comes to headers, I do what I want. heh heh.
Sorry if this has jumped around a lot, hoping to get most of the exhaust highlights all gathered together in one thread plus some extra info.
Thanks!!!!!
i will say this...im proud of you for searching around/reading and trying to find some insight for yourself...
1) it shouldnt bother the longevity if its doing anything its giving it some extra life as its allowing it to breath easier
2) will depend on what all mods you do
3) dunno
4)none that i know of....only happend with the 1st gen of the S&S headers for us v8 gs's
5)im sure someone has and maybe they can chime in and give you a better answer
6) see 5
7) no idea, hopefull someone with a gs300 can chime in and help you out sir
8) heat wrap is my fav....only con is things tend to rust/deteriorate a tad quicker wrapped in them
9)this will just depend on the ones you choose to get
well i hope this helped some....im not really insightful on engine mods for the gs300 so i can help out with what i know and then hopefully others will chime in
04-05-09, 08:39 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks sakataj!
Hopefully more will chime in, I'm really really eager for more info.
I think I'm probably going to just get the IS300 (long pipe) header, keep the stock Y pipe, get the O2 sim and put a K&N cold air intake in, and if the stock 3rd cat on the Y pipe gets clogged, I'll put a high flow cat in in it's place. I don't like the idea of the carbon buildup on the exhaust tips, even if it does get a couple additional hp. Still kind of wondering how long my stock mufflers will deal with only one cat protecting them from buildup, but I guess time will tell. I drive 35k miles per year, so I should get answers fast on that I suppose.
Hopefully more will chime in, I'm really really eager for more info.
I think I'm probably going to just get the IS300 (long pipe) header, keep the stock Y pipe, get the O2 sim and put a K&N cold air intake in, and if the stock 3rd cat on the Y pipe gets clogged, I'll put a high flow cat in in it's place. I don't like the idea of the carbon buildup on the exhaust tips, even if it does get a couple additional hp. Still kind of wondering how long my stock mufflers will deal with only one cat protecting them from buildup, but I guess time will tell. I drive 35k miles per year, so I should get answers fast on that I suppose.
04-06-09, 09:18 AM
#4
Im currently running the gs300 obx header w/ the y-pipe.... I also have an SRT intake, the car got louder w/ the intake but not much louder w/ the header... I'm not running the o2 sim but instead i did the Mechanical o2 sim (spark plug non-foulers), which is a much cheaper route than the electronic o2 sim... $5 bucks vs $40 bucks....working great so far w/ no CELs...
04-06-09, 09:51 AM
#5
Krappy,
Can you give us anymore insight into your experience with those engine mods? It seems as though getting any answers on engine modification with a GS300 is like pulling teeth unless you want to go turbo, in which case there is a plethora if information available
I have been thinking on and off about the header but don't really know what to do. I have the Borla exhaust and that definitely made my car louder from inside the cabin. There are times where the droning, deep bass noise of the Borla gets annoying but it's not often.
I have the SRT Intake in a box in my house but I just have not had the time to install it. Is it significantly louder than stock in every day driving or just when you floor it?
You said that the headers were only slightly louder than stock...is this in daily driving (all the time) or more at WOT?
What kind of power increases have you seen with the SRT Intake/OBX Header combo? What kind of change in MPGs? Did you lose power down low?
Sorry for all of the questions but I been trying to figure this out for a while.
Thanks
Can you give us anymore insight into your experience with those engine mods? It seems as though getting any answers on engine modification with a GS300 is like pulling teeth unless you want to go turbo, in which case there is a plethora if information available
I have been thinking on and off about the header but don't really know what to do. I have the Borla exhaust and that definitely made my car louder from inside the cabin. There are times where the droning, deep bass noise of the Borla gets annoying but it's not often.
I have the SRT Intake in a box in my house but I just have not had the time to install it. Is it significantly louder than stock in every day driving or just when you floor it?
You said that the headers were only slightly louder than stock...is this in daily driving (all the time) or more at WOT?
What kind of power increases have you seen with the SRT Intake/OBX Header combo? What kind of change in MPGs? Did you lose power down low?
Sorry for all of the questions but I been trying to figure this out for a while.
Thanks
04-06-09, 12:06 PM
#6
Krappy,
Can you give us anymore insight into your experience with those engine mods? It seems as though getting any answers on engine modification with a GS300 is like pulling teeth unless you want to go turbo, in which case there is a plethora if information available
I have been thinking on and off about the header but don't really know what to do. I have the Borla exhaust and that definitely made my car louder from inside the cabin. There are times where the droning, deep bass noise of the Borla gets annoying but it's not often.
I have the SRT Intake in a box in my house but I just have not had the time to install it. Is it significantly louder than stock in every day driving or just when you floor it?
You said that the headers were only slightly louder than stock...is this in daily driving (all the time) or more at WOT?
What kind of power increases have you seen with the SRT Intake/OBX Header combo? What kind of change in MPGs? Did you lose power down low?
Sorry for all of the questions but I been trying to figure this out for a while.
Thanks
Can you give us anymore insight into your experience with those engine mods? It seems as though getting any answers on engine modification with a GS300 is like pulling teeth unless you want to go turbo, in which case there is a plethora if information available
I have been thinking on and off about the header but don't really know what to do. I have the Borla exhaust and that definitely made my car louder from inside the cabin. There are times where the droning, deep bass noise of the Borla gets annoying but it's not often.
I have the SRT Intake in a box in my house but I just have not had the time to install it. Is it significantly louder than stock in every day driving or just when you floor it?
You said that the headers were only slightly louder than stock...is this in daily driving (all the time) or more at WOT?
What kind of power increases have you seen with the SRT Intake/OBX Header combo? What kind of change in MPGs? Did you lose power down low?
Sorry for all of the questions but I been trying to figure this out for a while.
Thanks
As of right now im running the stock exhaust with the stock mufflers and the car is quiet at idle and only a very low rumble under WOT... I had installed the intake first and installed the header a week later and i feel that the header added little to no cabin noise...the noise is bearable but you can definitely tell the car isnt stock... most of the time i have music on so i can bearly hear it....
power wise i feel more power on the top end which is good because i do mostly highway driving (50 miles everyday to and from atlanta)... i do feel like i lost a little power on the lower end but not much...
My MPG has seen to increase a little from 19 to about 20.5ish... an increase but not that much... but ive noticed an increase since ive cleaned my MAF Sensor too...
But after all this I'm still missing boost ( I had a Swapped and boosted 240 before this).... so I may yank this all off and go the boost route instead...
04-06-09, 12:45 PM
#7
The mods are nice and very straight forward when you go through with the install... took me 15 minutes for the intake and about 30 for the header....
As of right now im running the stock exhaust with the stock mufflers and the car is quiet at idle and only a very low rumble under WOT... I had installed the intake first and installed the header a week later and i feel that the header added little to no cabin noise...the noise is bearable but you can definitely tell the car isnt stock... most of the time i have music on so i can bearly hear it....
power wise i feel more power on the top end which is good because i do mostly highway driving (50 miles everyday to and from atlanta)... i do feel like i lost a little power on the lower end but not much...
My MPG has seen to increase a little from 19 to about 20.5ish... an increase but not that much... but ive noticed an increase since ive cleaned my MAF Sensor too...
But after all this I'm still missing boost ( I had a Swapped and boosted 240 before this).... so I may yank this all off and go the boost route instead...
As of right now im running the stock exhaust with the stock mufflers and the car is quiet at idle and only a very low rumble under WOT... I had installed the intake first and installed the header a week later and i feel that the header added little to no cabin noise...the noise is bearable but you can definitely tell the car isnt stock... most of the time i have music on so i can bearly hear it....
power wise i feel more power on the top end which is good because i do mostly highway driving (50 miles everyday to and from atlanta)... i do feel like i lost a little power on the lower end but not much...
My MPG has seen to increase a little from 19 to about 20.5ish... an increase but not that much... but ive noticed an increase since ive cleaned my MAF Sensor too...
But after all this I'm still missing boost ( I had a Swapped and boosted 240 before this).... so I may yank this all off and go the boost route instead...
and I'll pay you for it. As far as the headers are concerned would you say "yay" or "nay" overall? They are relatively cheap ($300 on ebay) and I wouldn't mind gaining a few horses here or there but have seen many people complain about losing low end power but you mentioned it was not that bad. Is the gain up high worth the sacrifice down low?
I recently cleaned my MAF sensor and throttle body and also did the fuel injector cleaner and noticed a good 2-3mpg boost from that alone. I am very happy with the results.
Trending Topics
04-06-09, 01:16 PM
#8
Pole Position
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wait until you add the after market exhaust, it will get really loud.
Let me put it this way, I had this combo before I was boosted and it was definitely louder. I feel the extra noise did not worth it, the car was still slow. If I remember I think I dynoed around 207 rwhp with these mods. If you want speed don't waste your time and money on these mods, go for the turbo.
Later, Jose
Later, Jose
The mods are nice and very straight forward when you go through with the install... took me 15 minutes for the intake and about 30 for the header....
As of right now im running the stock exhaust with the stock mufflers and the car is quiet at idle and only a very low rumble under WOT... I had installed the intake first and installed the header a week later and i feel that the header added little to no cabin noise...the noise is bearable but you can definitely tell the car isnt stock... most of the time i have music on so i can bearly hear it....
power wise i feel more power on the top end which is good because i do mostly highway driving (50 miles everyday to and from atlanta)... i do feel like i lost a little power on the lower end but not much...
My MPG has seen to increase a little from 19 to about 20.5ish... an increase but not that much... but ive noticed an increase since ive cleaned my MAF Sensor too...
But after all this I'm still missing boost ( I had a Swapped and boosted 240 before this).... so I may yank this all off and go the boost route instead...
As of right now im running the stock exhaust with the stock mufflers and the car is quiet at idle and only a very low rumble under WOT... I had installed the intake first and installed the header a week later and i feel that the header added little to no cabin noise...the noise is bearable but you can definitely tell the car isnt stock... most of the time i have music on so i can bearly hear it....
power wise i feel more power on the top end which is good because i do mostly highway driving (50 miles everyday to and from atlanta)... i do feel like i lost a little power on the lower end but not much...
My MPG has seen to increase a little from 19 to about 20.5ish... an increase but not that much... but ive noticed an increase since ive cleaned my MAF Sensor too...
But after all this I'm still missing boost ( I had a Swapped and boosted 240 before this).... so I may yank this all off and go the boost route instead...
04-06-09, 07:08 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can appreciate that, Jose, but I have about $500. If you can show me a good solid turbo that can get me there for that much, I'm definitely interested! haha otherwise, I'm basically just trying to find the best alternative to blowing a bunch of money on replacing the catalytic converters. If I can save money, gain a little hp, and it's just a little louder, and my engine will still last for 250k+ miles, I'll be happy 
P.S. not looking to change the exhaust, hoping that will stay stock for awhile, probably will keep it stock, I don't want it too noisy.
P.S. not looking to change the exhaust, hoping that will stay stock for awhile, probably will keep it stock, I don't want it too noisy.
04-06-09, 08:55 PM
#10
I will chime in and say That i am running the obx header, stock y pipe, ltuned mufflers, stock intake. I love the sound of the car u get a low deep slight rumble @ idle, and slight increase @ cruising. Yes running the obx headers will give u some carbon buidup on ur muffler tips, and i will say the fumes is noticable, pick up on the highway has increased slightly, I have had the srt intake on my car with my current set up. Be aware the srt intake will and i'll repeat will increase the sound volume with the srt, and obx, u will not get a drone effect in the car, I also had borla exhaust on my car @ 1 time and i will agree that exhaust wil give u a drone annoying noise in ur car with out no other mods (headers, srt intake) To get to the bottom line i love my set up, just dont like the exhaust fumes from not having the cats on.
When i put my cats on i got the os simulator, and resistors, because with the o2 simulator, u still will get a check engine light for the heater side of the o2 senors, thats how i did mine their might be guy's that know another way. but i did mine that way.
Trust me ur car wont sound like the honda's running up and down ur street.
When i put my cats on i got the os simulator, and resistors, because with the o2 simulator, u still will get a check engine light for the heater side of the o2 senors, thats how i did mine their might be guy's that know another way. but i did mine that way.
Trust me ur car wont sound like the honda's running up and down ur street.
04-07-09, 10:59 AM
#11
Thanks for the input...these are the types of answers that I have been waiting for. If you are in/around Atlanta one day or night and want to install an SRT Intake let me know and I'll pay you for it.
As far as the headers are concerned would you say "yay" or "nay" overall? They are relatively cheap ($300 on ebay) and I wouldn't mind gaining a few horses here or there but have seen many people complain about losing low end power but you mentioned it was not that bad. Is the gain up high worth the sacrifice down low?
I recently cleaned my MAF sensor and throttle body and also did the fuel injector cleaner and noticed a good 2-3mpg boost from that alone. I am very happy with the results.
and I'll pay you for it. As far as the headers are concerned would you say "yay" or "nay" overall? They are relatively cheap ($300 on ebay) and I wouldn't mind gaining a few horses here or there but have seen many people complain about losing low end power but you mentioned it was not that bad. Is the gain up high worth the sacrifice down low?
I recently cleaned my MAF sensor and throttle body and also did the fuel injector cleaner and noticed a good 2-3mpg boost from that alone. I am very happy with the results.
the intake isn't hard to install at all... where about in Atlanta are you? i can give you a hand if you dont mind the drive up to Gwinnett...
04-07-09, 11:17 AM
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has anyone heard of anyone with a header using an aftermarket high flow catalytic converter on the Y pipe, with stock exhaust? Was thinking rather than ditching all three converters, if I kept a cat on the Y pipe I might cut down on some of the exhaust fumes and carbon buildup...
04-07-09, 11:38 AM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I say Nay, its been giving me problems left and right... the y-pipe to header gasket that came with the header is crap I started to have an exhaust leak about 2 days after the install so I pulled it out and copper sprayed it then slapped it back on... was good for about a week before the leak started again... so i got tired so i bought gasket material and cut out a gasket and double layered it with copper spray and two weeks later (just yesterday) the leak started again... I'm going to get a gasket off of a memer on My.is (the IS300 guys using these headers are having the same issues of the leak) who is selling a revised gasket, if that doesnt work out im just gonna take it off and go back to stock....
the intake isn't hard to install at all... where about in Atlanta are you? i can give you a hand if you dont mind the drive up to Gwinnett...
the intake isn't hard to install at all... where about in Atlanta are you? i can give you a hand if you dont mind the drive up to Gwinnett...
As far as yay or nay, my situation is at least one bad cat. My alternatives are getting high flow cats and trying to get some that don't need modifications, or put a header on and try to get the connections to bolt up. I haven't seen a lot of people talking about leaks, I wonder if the alignment on the flanges was slightly off on the set you got?
Has anyone measured the flange positions and bolt positions and compared it to OEM spec on locations on the actual cars?
I have access to a coordinate measuring machine at work I could play with after hours, maybe I could check this before I install mine. I haven't ordered mine yet, looking on ebay and was going to check a couple other sources and see which one gives me the best warm and fuzzy feeling I guess.
04-07-09, 01:51 PM
#15
Seems like I have heard some others talking about gaskets having problems, and this may be on the V8 folks but it may be the same deal. I can't remember the exact thread because I've read so many in the last week or two, but it seems like more than once they just used the OEM ones from the dealer, and those did the best. I was planning on doing this.
As far as yay or nay, my situation is at least one bad cat. My alternatives are getting high flow cats and trying to get some that don't need modifications, or put a header on and try to get the connections to bolt up. I haven't seen a lot of people talking about leaks, I wonder if the alignment on the flanges was slightly off on the set you got?
Has anyone measured the flange positions and bolt positions and compared it to OEM spec on locations on the actual cars?
I have access to a coordinate measuring machine at work I could play with after hours, maybe I could check this before I install mine. I haven't ordered mine yet, looking on ebay and was going to check a couple other sources and see which one gives me the best warm and fuzzy feeling I guess.
As far as yay or nay, my situation is at least one bad cat. My alternatives are getting high flow cats and trying to get some that don't need modifications, or put a header on and try to get the connections to bolt up. I haven't seen a lot of people talking about leaks, I wonder if the alignment on the flanges was slightly off on the set you got?
Has anyone measured the flange positions and bolt positions and compared it to OEM spec on locations on the actual cars?
I have access to a coordinate measuring machine at work I could play with after hours, maybe I could check this before I install mine. I haven't ordered mine yet, looking on ebay and was going to check a couple other sources and see which one gives me the best warm and fuzzy feeling I guess.