ExileLakai

iTrader: (4)

I searched 2JZGTE Injector and came up zero matches.

I know the US spec 2JZGTE came with bigger injectors 550cc vs the JDM 2JZGTE 440cc.... Now did they up the injector size for the JDM Aristo 2JZGTE VVTI motor? or are they still 440's?

Thanks
Rob

SlvrGS300

iTrader: (7)

They are high impedance 440's.

ExileLakai

iTrader: (4)

damn Ok... I was crossing my fingers in hopes of toyota upping the stock injector size on the JDM motors after 98. Wishful thinking. I reason is the supra guys can run a T78 through a stock MAF at 15 psi and hit 425 hp. But thats close maxing out the us spec 550's

thank slvrGS300... you should check out the build thread if you haven't been over there is a while. The car is down in AZ getting the cage put in it and i picked a T78 kit hence the reason for the question.

Rob

SlvrGS300

iTrader: (7)

no worries, I have been following. Scared me for a second when you said you were going ls1 v8. Glad to see you came around LOL. If you have seen my build thread, I am currently running the T78 kit on my swap. Stock MAF, stock injectors upgraded pump and FPR. I have a set of USDM 550's lying around if you need a set? I need some pics of those pedals when you can.

bluelex

I know for fact you can get a lot more HP out of the 550's not sure if it has anything to do with your turbo set up but my buddy John (LRD) has the non vvt-i jdm auto clip in his SC with a gt35, 550's, One 255 pump and emanage, nothing more and pulled 480rwhp with room to spare on an auto..

ExileLakai

iTrader: (4)

yeah I was wondering if i could do the 550's with say a HKS VPC and the stock ecu. Having VVTI has thrown a wrench into the system b/c I want the VVTI to still be usable. I've sent a email to obiwan over on the supraforums asking him what he would charge me to get the engine tuned with an HKS F-con V pro and a target all day trackable horsepower of 600whp. I'll see what he says but I'm pretty sure its going to be $$$$.

slvrGS300 sure thing. the cars is down in AZ getting the cage put in. I should have the pedals mocked up before I take them back off for paint so I'll try to get a pic then.

ExileLakai

iTrader: (4)

what psi are you running with the 440's? The supra guys are running 16 psi max on 550's. Are you around 10psi or something?

edit I just saw 14 psi in your thread. Have any idea of your A/F ratio when it hits 14 psi and up top of the RPM band.

Also the coolent line running over to the throttle body... Can it be removed and capped. I'm not going to use the heater core so can the lines just be capped off or do I have to recirculate them?

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

I'm running U.S 550's, Walbro pump and stock fpr. At 18psi I'm in the high 10's for A/F on a PT67. You can get away with running side feed injectors at a higher duty cycle than top feed as they are constantly cooled by fuel. Technically you can run them at 100% duty cycle, they have shown to be reliable, but most people don't want to take that risk.

SlvrGS300

iTrader: (7)

Looking at my profec b spec.II, I am running 15.5psi straight off the wastegate, boost controller off. According to the HKS AFK I am off the charts rich down low, high 9/low 10 through the middle and I am hitting 11.6-11.8 afr up top. I have a SaRD 265lph fuel pump, -6 feed/return lines, Stock 440's and a SaRD Type RJ Racing FPR set to 37psi. Still stock ECU/MAF. (Haven't gotten my HKS Vpro installed yet. I have SaRD 850's and no MAF waiting for that.)

Cap those coolant lines off. The easiest way to do it is to take the two lines off the throttle body and get a small piece of metal tubing to join the two lines together. The better looking way to do it is to remove the two lines completely and cap everything off. (make sure you get some durable high temp. resistant rubber caps though or else you will have quite a mess on your hands.)

ExileLakai

iTrader: (4)

nice thanks. The guy that I bought the kit from said the waste gate is set at 15 pounds so i was kinda worried if 15 pounds was going to be to much for the 440's. I'll most likely end up spending some $$ on monitoring sensors to see if these 440's are gonna fly. Before I drop the big money on the Fcon even though that's what i want. Regular track days might be to much for them but drifting should be ok b/c there isn't really that much load on the car in relation to the load it takes to push a big *** bus of a car down a front straight at 100+.

SlvrGS300

iTrader: (7)

Depending on the spring in the wastegate, boost on the GReddy wastegate is adjustable. There should be a screw on the top of it that you can turn in or out to raise or lower the boost. If you take the top off, the spring should be yellow, blue or red. You can check the GReddy website and it will give you a min/max boost pressure for each color.

If you can, spend the money on the HKS AFK. It gives you the ability to monitor both A/F and knock and makes tuning the Vpro much much easier. You should also plan to budget about $4500-5000 total for the Vpro, installed/tuned. You should get the Vpro, AFK, PnP Aristo harness, IAT and Pressure sensors/Harnesses.

Best thing to do is get the 440's cleaned and flow tested to find out what kind of condition they are in, worst case, I have a set of 550's you can have.

ExileLakai

iTrader: (4)

Ok I'm turning this thread into ask SlvrGs300 and bluelex questions thread! haha

anyways do they make a two bolt block off plate for this coolant line running down the exhaust side of the engine. sorry I want to add arrows to photos but i have a mac and don't have a photo edit program that lets me draw of the photo.


same line wraps around the back side of the motor and notice the coolant line shooting out the top of the head. just cap it huh?


now look at this two little lines break off the big one and go into a white cylinder shaped thing. what is it? an emissions devise? It also has a sensor connected to it. Also this coolant line ends up runing into a plate under the oil filter and back out the other of the plate and into the block. did they water cool the oil passages to the oil filter? I've just never seen this done before and I'm wondering if I can just block off the hole in the block? and if i do will i have a problem with coolant flow through the block. Plus If i take the coolant plate from under the old filter will the oil filter still thread down a seal.


here is a pic of the plate under the oil filter that runs coolant through it.


another pic showing the in and out line plus behind the gold color plate in the cylinder object with the sensor.


a random pic of the front intake side of the engine.


I just need to know of any sensors that can be cut out and removed. I don't need anything that doesn't help the engine run.

SlvrGS300

iTrader: (7)

You have to keep the big pipe, it circulates coolant throughout the entire engine. Since you are not keeping the heater core, I would take the piece that comes off the pipe to the core and make a hose that goes from it to the fitting on the back of the head. You can remove that black canister, you don't need it. I would just leave the oil filter coolant sandwich plate, you won't benefit from removing it and you can't see it anyways. If you have to take it out, leave the plate on, take the one line coming from the pipe and make a hose that goes from it to the fitting on the block to bypass the plate. You do have to keep that, it circulates coolant throughout the block. I think that you do have to leave the plate in though. GReddy makes a pretty good oil filter relocation kit. Makes it easier to change the filter, and you may be able to remove the coolant plate because the kit come with a piece to replace the factory oil filter fitting








As far as sensors go, you can get rid of pretty much all of the plugs on the turbo side that are for the factory boost control. You don't want to remove the ones for the MAF and o2, (at least for now anyways, once you get the Vpro then you can remove them.) On the intake manifold you "should" be able to remove the check valve (the black cylinder thing with a vacuum port on top of it, the boost pressure sensor, the factory FPR VSV and the stepper motor with the 2 lines coming off of it. I actually pulled the entire harness of my motor and traced each wire back to the ECU to completely remove it from the harness, not just cut it off.





I also removed the factory PCV valve and capped it off on the intake manifold side and welded a -8 fitting to the valve cover to run to my catch can. You can see it in the picture on both sides of the valve cover they run back to the Tee fitting and over to the catch can behind the passenger head light.

ExileLakai

iTrader: (4)

damn Your full of great information!!! Thanks a lot... just the person to help me through this build. I called over to cali for a price quote for the v-pro. I think i might just have to suck it up and rewire everything when it gets here. Thats the only way I would like it. If I got the car running before the install they would install it the fast way plug and play the wires and end it up not looking so go. Plus I want to relocate the ecu Into the car and cut out the dash and have it sticking *** out from the dash so its easy to stick data loggers/tuning it.

The more I'm into this build the more little things are starting to add up. fuel cell, fuel lines, an- fittings, etc etc. I want the car to be pretty pimp and I don't want to be left out on the track broken so I know I need to pony up the money. but I don't wanna... haha

Do you know of any cheap vac boosted Brake Master cylinders that would push the supra brakes? I checked toyota for a price on a brand new one from a 98 supra and it was 1200 bucks. yikes. I believe the stock GS Break master cylinder is electronically controlled which is a no go for me since it trying to make the car as simple has possible. Less stuff to brake when pushed hard.

SlvrGS300

iTrader: (7)

I bought the PnP harness, and then extended it so that I can have the ECU in the car. There is 42 lines that needed to be extended, so get ready for that. Then you have to mount the Pressure sensor on the firewall, tap the IAT into the intake tract and run those harnesses into the car and you are wired. Nothing that you should have to pay for, just the tune at that point. I can talk to Reg at RCTS here in Calgary and see what if any kind of deal we could get on multiple Vpro's for you if you want to try and save some money on that.




You can see the big black snake that runs over top the master cylinder, that is the extended PnP harness, there is a grommet beside the master cylinder that I ran it through and then under the carpet to the glove box. I just have the harness sitting in the ECU box until I get the Vpro installed.

The fuel system is expensive once you add up all the ends, lines and connectors. Gotta pay to play my friend, lol

You could go with a 300ZX master cylinder, don't know if that is any cheaper, but an option,