KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Suprastick install on the 95 and under SC400.

Installation notes:

I am 95% sure that all of the pinouts are the same up to 95. Possibly good for 96 - 97 also. If you have a question or would like me to double check the pinouts for another year PM me to let me know. Also, if anything in this write-up seems to be missing or incorrect, please let me know and I’ll double check it.

Installing the Suprastick on an OBD1 vehicle will cause the overdrive light to flash while driving. There are a few fixes for this: get used to it, pull the bulb, or just keep overdrive off. With overdrive off, the od off light on the dash stays on constant just like it normally would but the Suprastick is doing the shifting so it will still shift to overdrive based on the tune that is put in.

OBD2 cars will have a check engine light on with the Suprastick installed. There is a way around this problem for emission testing reasons but it requires quite a bit of extra wiring. It is possible to use 3-4 single pole double throw relays to switch control back and forth between the Suprastick and the stock ECU/TCU. Or use male / female crimp connectors for the solenoid wiring, then when it's time to test the car, simply connect it all back to the stock computer.

Wiring:

There are quite a few different ways the Suprastick can be wired and a few things are optional. I am going over a few things I have done here.

I have (for now) chosen to use one wire shifting via the cruise stalk for manual mode. It works ok but I will in the near future install a joystick switch in the center console.

I have a switch for changing the shift tables although I’m not really sure what the point of having the two tables is. The switch is optional. Edit – It is nice to have an extra map to play around with, being able to go back to the base map if needed.

I have it so that with the ECT switch on NORM, the Suprastick is in auto mode and with the ECT switch on PWR the Suprastick is in manual mode. But, I also wired it so that terminal p (ECM connector E11 pin 18) always has 12 volts with the ignition on. This way, the ECU is always in power mode. I did this since I always keep it on power mode anyway. I like this setup since it is always in power mode and the dash light still works with the switch so PWR on the cluster means I’m in manual mode.

I did not wire the Suprastick to the ECM side of the solenoid wires at first. After a couple of days of driving I decided that the base map on the Suprastick will not suit me at all so I then connected the ECM solenoid wires so that I can enable the auto learn mode. I plan on driving around for a bit to get a closer base map and then tweak it from there. Edit – for some reason my stock ECU/TCU will not properly control the transmission through the Suprastick. I had this problem with the unit before I updated it and now it still won’t work even with the updated unit. Not really sure why, ?? It just stays in second gear no matter what.

Depending on where one would like to install the Suprastick, the wires may need to be extended.

For some reason, the crank sensor signal is kind of dirty, jumps around a bit. I had this same problem when I wired in my MAFTPro. I ended up using one of the no 1 igniter circuit wires for the MAFTPro. I tried using both an igniter signal and a camshaft sensor signal and neither are better than the NE connection. So, the NE is not perfect but it appears to be the best option. The Suprastick mainly uses the NE signal for downshift rev protection and the shift light so it’s not a big deal and is probably accurate enough for these purposes.

No 4 solenoid:

The Suprastick will not control the no 4 solenoid that is present on the SC400 version of the A340e so it will need to be disconnected. I recommend cutting and securing the wire at the ECU.

Torque converter info:

The torque converter on the transmission is controlled (stock) by a linear solenoid. The stock ECU/TCU normally uses pulse width modulation to “ease” engagement of the torque converter clutch. With the Suprastick in control, the solenoid gets either an on or off signal so the engagement is a bit harsher than stock.

The stock ECU/TCU controls the lock-up circuit on the ground side of the solenoid and the power side has constant battery voltage with the ignition on. The Suprastick sends 12 volts to engage lock-up so a problem is created. In order for the Suprastick to be able to engage lock-up, the power side wiring from the transmission connector needs to be ran into the cars interior so that it can be wired to the Suprastick. The ground side wire at the ECU/TCU needs to be cut and the harness side of the cut wire needs to be connected to a body ground.

It should be noted that in an email from Garrett @ latentsolutions, he said he could change the programming of the Suprastick to provide ground for the lock-up solenoid which would make it much easier. One could forget the above paragraph and simply connect the dark blue solenoid lock-up wire from the Suprastick to the SLU- wire at the ECM.

Parts location:

I did not take any pictures but I didn’t really think they would do any good. I will quickly go over what I had removed and where the ECU’s are for anyone who doesn’t know.

Removed: Door sill trim on both sides in order to be able to lift the carpet up. Glove box and the bottom cover. Bottom cover underneath the steering column. A good bit of the center console (cup holder, shift ****, shift indicator plate, and the piece with the stereo / ac *****. And of course, the ECU cover. Think that’s pretty much it.

The ECU/TCU is on the passenger side front, under the carpet. The ABS ECU is right next the ECU/TCU. The cruise control ECU is on the driver’s side directly above the steering column. All easy enough to find.

Notes on the install manual located here - http://www.latentsolutions.com/SSv4.6.pdf

I have so far found 2 errors in this manual:

For connecting to a computer the manual says to setup hyperterminal for 19200 bits per second, 8 data bits, None for parity, 1 stop bit, and hardware flow control, this does not work. Hardware flow control needs to be set for NONE, at least on my computer.

The manual says that if a wheel mounted speed sensor is being used for the speed calculation, set the gear reduction to “1”. I have found this to be incorrect. I think entering 1 is read as one tenth to 1 which had my speed reading showing 2000mph. LOL. Didn’t work well.

Vehicle settings:

This is what is working for me so far.

Crank sensor teeth = 12
Speed sensor teeth = 96
Gear reduction 10

The other vehicle settings will vary depending on your tire size, stall speed and so on.

Tuning:

I don’t really have any advice here, I’m still not sure where to start myself. You’ll just have to play around with it and figure out what works best for you. I plan on starting with the base table and changing it a little at a time to suit me.

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Attached is an excel file with the pinouts and a blank copy of the shift table.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Tuning:

Still playing with it and still not yet sure what advice to offer. But, I do have a few thoughts. It is a bit more complicated than you might first think.

Things to consider:

Downshift points - I have decided to start based on what throttle position I want the car to downshift at then I am filling in the rest of the graph to accomodate. Seems to be working so far. Using the base map I'd be going 60 on the highway and need to put in about 60-70% throttle to downshift to 3rd which to me was no good. So, I filled in the 4 to 3 column to get me the same downshift at 35-40% throttle. The rest of the graph can then be somewhat put together from there.

Speed between ups and downs - This is where it can be really tricky. There needs to be an amount of speed difference between shifts appropriate for the throttle being given. This is also very important for downshifting.

About all I got for now, sorry if I'm being confusing. HA!

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Attatched is a file that includes the base graph. Custom 1 is my first attempt to come up with one of my own. I decided it wasn't aggresive enough so I then came up with custom2 which is much better but still needs some work.

KC

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Took a pic guys. Shows installation in the glove box, the joystick I just installed and the location of my new cupholders!

The joystick is awesome! Far better than the CC stalk. Took a bit of modification, 99% to the joystick itself, to make it fit but it's great. It's not quite as sensitive as I'd like but again, much better than the CC stalk. It sits in the perfect position with my arm rested on the center console lid. Love it.

KC

OMD

Good write up man.. this would be very helpful when i might go this route.. there's one thing i've been wanting to ask, we have a 4 speed auto, but how come i feel the transmission shift 5 times? O/D as the 5th.. i noticed this on my 92 pajero too..

YeA 2jZ

iTrader: (15)

Awsome thanks for taking your time and doing this write up man

audi2nr

iTrader: (1)

most likely you are feeling the torque converter lock up, typically happens when on the freeway or cruising at a fairly decent speed after shifting through all the gears

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Yes, most likely the lock up you are feeling. The lower the RPM's when lock up occurs, the more noticable it will be FYI.

You can actually verify this pretty easy. Once you feel the 5th "shift", lightly tap the brake without letting off the gas. You should see the RPM's go up a little bit, then after letting off the brake, back down when it locks back up.

KC

OneSickSC

^^^my car does it all the time like ever i say 12-16 seconds its soooo annoying....the only way i figured out how to fix it was mess with my tps

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

The TPS is a MAJOR factor in the lock up logic. I found this out when I was adjusting the TPS in an attempt to lessen my 1-2 rev limiter bounce problem. If the TPS is adjusted high enough (I think it was like .62 volts with the throttle fully closed and the car running), it will not unlock unless you hit the hit the brake. My car was coasting down, engine braking all the way down to a stop.

KC

Dew23

iTrader: (1)

Good write up might swap trans if my car.

TheRonTom3

iTrader: (5)

I'm curious as to whether this throws a CEL with the modifications done and that 4th solenoid unplugged.

I need to have no CEL to pass inspection

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the good question, I added a few things to the first post because of it.

You have a 97? If so, then yes it will definately throw on the check engine light. 4 codes at least, one for each solenoid. SLU, SOL1, SOL2, and SLN.

There are ways around the problem though.

KC

TheRonTom3

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm That is a lot of extra wiring and rule of thumb is the more you complicate a system the harder it is to diagnose or fix or keep healthy.

On the suprastick website i noticed it also spoke of compatiblity for only earlier model supras and soarers. I couldn't find an instance of any OBD2 car being used.

This was for V 4.2 however. I think i have some emailing to do. Wiring doesnt scare me, having a car that won't pass NY state insepction does

OH BTW works Bell offers a paddle shifter accessorie for their hubs. I was thinking of implementing this with the suprastick for a sick setup

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, nothing really helpfull yet but I updated post 2 for tuning info.

I think your best bet would be to wire it in using male / female connectors so that you could un-do it before an inspection. Worst case you would only need reconnect the solenoids, all the rest of the wiring can stay intact since everything else is tapped not spliced. Also, if you get one, get it in and you can get the automap mode to work (isn't working for me) you would only need to recconnect the no 4 and lock-up solenoids. When the Suprastick is in automap mode it acts as a pass through so there shouldn't be any codes for the two shift solenoids.

I am about 99% sure it would work on your car assuming it's a 97 and you have a line pressure cable going to the throttle body. I took a look at the EWD real quick for 97 and it's pretty much the same as my 95 although I think some of the wire colors were different. I think 98 is the year that went to a seperate solenoid for line pressure which the Suprastick cannot control.

KC

SpinAll4

So this does interface with a computer for building the shift tables? I would hate to have to do it on a little tiny controller.