az-dave

Nuck: Good write-up. I also freed up my plunger doing very similar to what you did...mine worked good for a day or 2 and then went crazy. In my case, it ended up being the solenoid coil going bad...once hot it would short-out. Its a relatively cheap part, but Im always for fixing vs buying. Thanks for the pics of the V8!

Does the V8 only have 1 OCV or 2 for each VVTi cam?

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

one per VVTI cam..... in post # 67 i show both of them and the info/DIY/repair for the V8's

well then you didnt read this thread,,i posted all that info in post # 67 where i covered all the info for the v8 models including repairing them, pictures and everything else for the v-8's

az-dave

Ditto on the LOWBALLER link!

348he

iTrader: (1)

SO, how does one get this Sewell Discount...?

BTW V-8 GUYS yes gs400 and gs430 use the same part #'s
part # for drivers side 153400F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)
part # for passenger side 153300F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)


(Nice write up BTW)

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

lol, we know....i posted all that info in post # 67 where i covered all the info for the v8 models including repairing them, pictures and everything else for the v-8's

348he

iTrader: (1)

Just picked up part from the dealer.....$169

Plan on doing it after work in the parking lot before driving home....crossing fingers. Seems to have helped alot of other fellow followers.

EDIT: Muhaha, figured it out.....Sewell

az-dave

...seems to me I paid around +/-$65+tax at the lexus dealer here in Phoenix...but my I-6 requires only 1--> NOPE - I went back and checked - IT WAS $121+Tax

did you get 2 of them?

348he

iTrader: (1)

One for know, like most people a little low on funds. I'll get what needs to be replaced as it becomes necessary.

az-dave

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/6150886-post36.html

Here is a link to the way to diagnose the OCV Valve/Solenoid...this will tell you for sure it the little booger is bad and save you headaches and $$$ :-)

az-dave

348he - To Test the OCV valve is really simple, that last link I posted contains the actual Lexus Diagnostics for the entire VVTi system...in order to skip 90% of that all you need to do the the following test:

1) Warm up engine to full operating temp (this is critical to test VVTi)

2) With engine at idle, (AC Off), Unplug the wire harness from the OCV Valve(s) - (If you have V8 with 2 OCV Valves, unplug them both) - You should NOT notice a large change in idle at this point, but if you do notice a large change in idle just take note and continue to step 3 below.

3) With the wire harnesses UNPLUGGED, apply 12 Volts across the 2 pins of the Valve (not the wires - And it doesnt matter which pin gets + or -),If when you apply 12 Volts to the OCV Valve's solenoid you notice Little or No change in Idle, then the OVC Solenoid is BAD. Or if when you apply 12 Volts the idle suddenly changes, but then goes back to normal after a few seconds, its Bad!

GOOD VALVE: When you apply 12 Volts to the Solenoid on the OCV Valve the Idle DRAMTAICALLY changes or even Stalls the engine...If possible, continue holding voltage across the solenoid for up to 1 minute at a time with engine idling horribly/almost stalling, this should thoroughly test the solenoid and is most likely good.

With a I-6 there is only one solenoid, with V8 there is 2, so you will want to take note of idle change on one, then the other valve/solenoid...

348he

iTrader: (1)

Thanks AZ-Dave!

I did follow those steps as I came across them in the thread. If I did it correctly I didn't notice a change in idle. Since the code only indicated Bank 1 was bad I only tested that one.
I'm just glad I was able to go through thread and get all the information needed. Thanks to all for their input and to you for your extra time and info.

randylynch

I know this is an old thread but could someone tell me if only rough idle could be a symptom of this? I got codes P1349 and P1346 from auto zone today... Everything I came up to is the OCV valve in bank 1

az-dave

Well, the OCV valve actually is almost inactive at Idle, thats why the test involves disconnecting the OCV valve at idle to see if it causes a change - it shouldnt...if it does, then it can indicate that for some reason the valve is being energized at idle...which could be Camshaft sensor, or the VVTi Cam Gear, or something else.

Most people with the bad OCV Valve experience the problem under heavy acceleration, and under load, such as up hills, or high speed...however, if the OCV valve us getting stuck in the "Open" position, then it could cause a bad idle...

Its not a cheap part, but its extremely easy to change...I would suggest following the tests above and seeing what happens, and removing the OCV valve to see if the plunger is getting stuck, and try cleaning.

az-dave

Oh yeah...One other thing about a rough Idle is motor mounts...and Im talking bad front motor mounts can cause a REALLY BAD idle vibration.

To test, place car in drive with brakes still pressed, note if idle is bad/vibration, then place in reverse with brakes pressed...does the vibration go away?

If reverse is relatively vibration free, but park/neutral/drive are bad, investigate the motor mounts.
I discovered this issue after fixing my OCV valve problem, which was just the valve, not the filter or VVTi Cam/Pulley.

348he

iTrader: (1)

Update:
Changed the OCV and has been running fine after 80+ miles. Previously, I would clear the code and would return within the first few miles. Thanks again everyone. Now off to replacing the knock sensor.