P1349 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 1b) blocked oil control valve filter
01-14-13, 08:03 AM
#121
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I've had this code pop up on my ES300 which now has 340k miles, but only after my fiance drives it. She was putting Kroger gas in it, and I have a Chevron/Texaco card and tend to put premium or plus gas in it from either of those. The last time I got the code, I put in some seafoam (1/3 in gas tank, 1/3 in crankcase, left 1/3 for vacuum system but didn't do it yet, cuz its kinda a pain), ran it one gas tank, changed the oil, then put premium gas in and added some Lucas upper cylinder lube. Code disappeared.
I had been thru this process the last time she drove it but didn't put this together until it happened again. Now she knows no more 'bid' gas and while I don't like to believe in things like 'Techron' and other marketing tactics, I've opened up her Honda Element and seen the purple gunk all over the manifold from the cheap gas. My friends who drive tractor trailers got me on the Lucas because they've seen the damage the 'up to 10% ethanol' is doing to rubber parts in the engines. It dries them out and makes them brittle. My engine was not designed for that, but I don't have a choice anymore since all gas has it. I keep Lucas in the trunk of both our cars now and it pays for itself with the significant added mileage per tank and the disappearance of CEL's. Its been nice to have a few months without CEL's, especially over the holidays.
Good luck!
01-22-13, 11:02 AM
#124
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Hey everyone thanks for the replies. My 2000 gs300 has 132,000 miles. I have owned it for about 2 yrs now & I have never used anything other then 91 or above octane & usually from the same gas station but this problem started about 20 minutes after getting gas from a Gulf station that I had never been to before. I tested the ocv when the car was cold, I didnt know the test was supposed to be done in a full temp vehicle. So can the ocv still b the problem although it was responding well to the multiple times I tested it? So is it not possible to be an o2 sensor? I ask because it feels like a bad misfire. About a yr ago I had a code pop up for a bad gas cap but after changing the cap the code came back & turned out to b the o2 sensor that controls cylinder bank 1-3. Maybe the o2 sensor for cylinder bank 4-6 has gone bad?? I really take care of this car & I only drive it about 15 miles a day...thanks for the help, it's all extremely appreciated.
01-22-13, 08:31 PM
#125
Well guys, here is another victim! I have 2002 GS300 137k right now. I have the P1349 and P1346 codes. And of course as everyone described there symptom, car rough idle, jerks at lower rpm, runs fine at higher rpm. So I just ordered a new OCV, OCV filter, and Cam Position Sensor. Hopefully this fix this problem.
01-25-13, 03:33 PM
#126
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Well guys, here is another victim! I have 2002 GS300 137k right now. I have the P1349 and P1346 codes. And of course as everyone described there symptom, car rough idle, jerks at lower rpm, runs fine at higher rpm. So I just ordered a new OCV, OCV filter, and Cam Position Sensor. Hopefully this fix this problem.
01-25-13, 03:36 PM
#127
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01-26-13, 12:27 AM
#128
01-30-13, 02:53 PM
#129
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... So can the ocv still b the problem although it was responding well to the multiple times I tested it? So is it not possible to be an o2 sensor? I ask because it feels like a bad misfire. About a yr ago I had a code pop up for a bad gas cap but after changing the cap the code came back & turned out to b the o2 sensor that controls cylinder bank 1-3. Maybe the o2 sensor for cylinder bank 4-6 has gone bad?? ...
When my 02 sensors have gone bad, I've been able to run my engine til warm/hot and look at the respective catalytic converter and see them get red hot. At 340k miles its happened more than once once on each cat.
With that said, just because its red hot, it doesn't mean the 02 sensor is bad. A couple of times its been the sensors, other times a good clean out of these filters and other sludge has helped immediately. Since my fiance has stopped putting off brand gas in it, I've started testing lower octane gas from branded stores like Texaco / Chevron. I hate buying into 'Techron' branding, but so far, so good. I've even cut back on the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and still no codes (damn, I probably just jinxed it!)
I only check this once a week or so, so if you have more questions feel free to PM me and I'll try and share all in one dump
02-02-13, 06:44 AM
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I may not be able to answer each question, but I'll try and help.
When my 02 sensors have gone bad, I've been able to run my engine til warm/hot and look at the respective catalytic converter and see them get red hot. At 340k miles its happened more than once once on each cat.
With that said, just because its red hot, it doesn't mean the 02 sensor is bad. A couple of times its been the sensors, other times a good clean out of these filters and other sludge has helped immediately. Since my fiance has stopped putting off brand gas in it, I've started testing lower octane gas from branded stores like Texaco / Chevron. I hate buying into 'Techron' branding, but so far, so good. I've even cut back on the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and still no codes (damn, I probably just jinxed it!)
I only check this once a week or so, so if you have more questions feel free to PM me and I'll try and share all in one dump
When my 02 sensors have gone bad, I've been able to run my engine til warm/hot and look at the respective catalytic converter and see them get red hot. At 340k miles its happened more than once once on each cat.
With that said, just because its red hot, it doesn't mean the 02 sensor is bad. A couple of times its been the sensors, other times a good clean out of these filters and other sludge has helped immediately. Since my fiance has stopped putting off brand gas in it, I've started testing lower octane gas from branded stores like Texaco / Chevron. I hate buying into 'Techron' branding, but so far, so good. I've even cut back on the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and still no codes (damn, I probably just jinxed it!)
I only check this once a week or so, so if you have more questions feel free to PM me and I'll try and share all in one dump
02-03-13, 09:01 AM
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This procedure worked awesome! Found bad ocvon my 1999 es300! Thank you!
Ok, As the Saga goes...
I did extensive research and found the Lexus Diagnostics Procedure for checking the VVTi System on the GS300. Its actually fairly straight forward and makes a lot of sense. Basically the ECU sends a Pulse-Modulated 12V signal to the Solenoid (OCV Valve), it CANNOT be tested with a hand held Digital Voltmeter. The only way to check the signal is with a Oscilliscope or Digital tester With Microsecond interval. 99% of the time the ECU is Not the problem. The Oil is pumped thru the OCV filter into the bottom of the OCV valve and then depending on the signal (advance / nominal / retard) the plunger inside the OCV Valve is continuously moved allowing different amount of oil pressure to be diverted into the advance or retard side of the VVTi Cam Pulley-Actuator. If the actuator is operating properly it will then advance or retard the actual Cam, which has a magnetic tab on it that then sends a signal to the Cam-Shaft Position Sensor (which almost never goes bad), and that signal tells the ECU the position of the Cam so the ECU can adjust the signal back to the OCV Valve.
The Procedure:
1) Check OCV Filter, Clean as Necessary, re-test drive vehicle prior to Step 2.
2) Check Operation of OCV Valve: (Engine must be fully warmed up)
a) PASS: Unplug OCV connector - idle should not change
b) Connect 12V DC across OCV terminals after step 2a:
i) PASS: Engine Stalls or almost Stalls when voltage manually applied to OCV Valve terminals, No Change to idle when OCV disconnected from plug - Go To Step 3
ii) NP(Bad): No Change to idle when Voltage Manually applied to OCV Valve, or large change in idle when OCV Valve disconnected from plug at idle- Replace OCV, Plunger/Solenoid not operating
3) Check Signal from ECU to OCV Valve Plug (may unconnect or tap into wires)
a) PASS: Pulse-Modulation Signal changes with Engine RPM Go to Step 4
b) NP: Pulse-Modulation does not change or no Pulse-Modulation Signal from ECU to OCV Valve plug - Go To Step 5
4) If Steps 2 & 3 Pass Replace VVTi Cam-Actuator:
a) Remove Timing Belt, remove VVTi Cam, Clean Cam Oil Journals, Replace Cam-Shaft Seal, Install new VVTi Cam
b) Test Drive, if replacing OCV Valve & VVTi Cam have no effect move to Step 5
5) Check Signal from Cam-Shaft Sensor (this obviously could be done as Step 2, but the general idea is that if there is a pulse-modulation signal coming from the ECU, then it must be deriving that signal from the Cam-Shaft Sensor)
a) PASS: Signal Sent changes with RPM - Go to Step 6
b) NP: Inconsistent or Non-Existent Signal: Replace Cam Shaft Sensor
6) Check ECU:
a) PASS: Signals from both Camshaft wires and OCV Valve consistent at ECU and at sensor & OCV Valve (in other words check the signals at the wires directly at the ECU AND tat the sensor and OCV Valve - there may be an intermittent break in the wires causing intermittent incontinuity of signal while driving) - Go to Step 7
b) NP: Replace Wire Harnesses between ECU and Sensor and ECU and OCV Valve - Re-Test Drive
7) Check Cam-Shaft and OCV Housing Oil Journals & Oil Presure
a) Disassemble Timing Belt, VVTi Cam Assembly, remove Intake Valve cover, remove all Camshaft Bearing Caps and inspect for excess wear, clean all internal oil passages.
b) Check Oil Pressure on Supply Line to OCV Valve (requires some special equipment to keep oil from spraying everywhere) - You can also do this by removing the OCV Valve putting a towel in its place and turning over the engine for a few cranks, oil should come out pretty fast, and will make a mess.
i) PASS: Oil Pressure supplied to OCV & Cam Journals free of blockages and Camshaft Bearings good - Go to Step 8
ii) NP: Replace all worn or inoperative parts, including Oil pump if Oil starvation is noted.
8) Replace ECU
Notice Replacing the ECU is Dead-Last...just after taking apart the entire upper end. Its pretty much a common-sense Logic process eliminating the most common/easiest to cure sources of the problem. My hunch is if Steps 1-8 dont work, the engine is "worn-out" and may have some sticking valves or other issues sending bad signals to the ECU which could take days upon days to trace and track...which is why in these instances dealers replace entire motors...the motor may cost less than the labor when all else fails.
If Steps 1-8 dont work, then your the lucky winner of an undiagnostical and unfixable problem...crack open a 12-pack and drink away.
I hope this helps future people with this problem.
I did extensive research and found the Lexus Diagnostics Procedure for checking the VVTi System on the GS300. Its actually fairly straight forward and makes a lot of sense. Basically the ECU sends a Pulse-Modulated 12V signal to the Solenoid (OCV Valve), it CANNOT be tested with a hand held Digital Voltmeter. The only way to check the signal is with a Oscilliscope or Digital tester With Microsecond interval. 99% of the time the ECU is Not the problem. The Oil is pumped thru the OCV filter into the bottom of the OCV valve and then depending on the signal (advance / nominal / retard) the plunger inside the OCV Valve is continuously moved allowing different amount of oil pressure to be diverted into the advance or retard side of the VVTi Cam Pulley-Actuator. If the actuator is operating properly it will then advance or retard the actual Cam, which has a magnetic tab on it that then sends a signal to the Cam-Shaft Position Sensor (which almost never goes bad), and that signal tells the ECU the position of the Cam so the ECU can adjust the signal back to the OCV Valve.
The Procedure:
1) Check OCV Filter, Clean as Necessary, re-test drive vehicle prior to Step 2.
2) Check Operation of OCV Valve: (Engine must be fully warmed up)
a) PASS: Unplug OCV connector - idle should not change
b) Connect 12V DC across OCV terminals after step 2a:
i) PASS: Engine Stalls or almost Stalls when voltage manually applied to OCV Valve terminals, No Change to idle when OCV disconnected from plug - Go To Step 3
ii) NP(Bad): No Change to idle when Voltage Manually applied to OCV Valve, or large change in idle when OCV Valve disconnected from plug at idle- Replace OCV, Plunger/Solenoid not operating
3) Check Signal from ECU to OCV Valve Plug (may unconnect or tap into wires)
a) PASS: Pulse-Modulation Signal changes with Engine RPM Go to Step 4
b) NP: Pulse-Modulation does not change or no Pulse-Modulation Signal from ECU to OCV Valve plug - Go To Step 5
4) If Steps 2 & 3 Pass Replace VVTi Cam-Actuator:
a) Remove Timing Belt, remove VVTi Cam, Clean Cam Oil Journals, Replace Cam-Shaft Seal, Install new VVTi Cam
b) Test Drive, if replacing OCV Valve & VVTi Cam have no effect move to Step 5
5) Check Signal from Cam-Shaft Sensor (this obviously could be done as Step 2, but the general idea is that if there is a pulse-modulation signal coming from the ECU, then it must be deriving that signal from the Cam-Shaft Sensor)
a) PASS: Signal Sent changes with RPM - Go to Step 6
b) NP: Inconsistent or Non-Existent Signal: Replace Cam Shaft Sensor
6) Check ECU:
a) PASS: Signals from both Camshaft wires and OCV Valve consistent at ECU and at sensor & OCV Valve (in other words check the signals at the wires directly at the ECU AND tat the sensor and OCV Valve - there may be an intermittent break in the wires causing intermittent incontinuity of signal while driving) - Go to Step 7
b) NP: Replace Wire Harnesses between ECU and Sensor and ECU and OCV Valve - Re-Test Drive
7) Check Cam-Shaft and OCV Housing Oil Journals & Oil Presure
a) Disassemble Timing Belt, VVTi Cam Assembly, remove Intake Valve cover, remove all Camshaft Bearing Caps and inspect for excess wear, clean all internal oil passages.
b) Check Oil Pressure on Supply Line to OCV Valve (requires some special equipment to keep oil from spraying everywhere) - You can also do this by removing the OCV Valve putting a towel in its place and turning over the engine for a few cranks, oil should come out pretty fast, and will make a mess.
i) PASS: Oil Pressure supplied to OCV & Cam Journals free of blockages and Camshaft Bearings good - Go to Step 8
ii) NP: Replace all worn or inoperative parts, including Oil pump if Oil starvation is noted.
8) Replace ECU
Notice Replacing the ECU is Dead-Last...just after taking apart the entire upper end. Its pretty much a common-sense Logic process eliminating the most common/easiest to cure sources of the problem. My hunch is if Steps 1-8 dont work, the engine is "worn-out" and may have some sticking valves or other issues sending bad signals to the ECU which could take days upon days to trace and track...which is why in these instances dealers replace entire motors...the motor may cost less than the labor when all else fails.
If Steps 1-8 dont work, then your the lucky winner of an undiagnostical and unfixable problem...crack open a 12-pack and drink away.
I hope this helps future people with this problem.
02-03-13, 09:05 AM
#132
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Make sure you test ocv at running temp..mine worked fine cold then would fail at warm up
I may not be able to answer each question, but I'll try and help.
When my 02 sensors have gone bad, I've been able to run my engine til warm/hot and look at the respective catalytic converter and see them get red hot. At 340k miles its happened more than once once on each cat.
With that said, just because its red hot, it doesn't mean the 02 sensor is bad. A couple of times its been the sensors, other times a good clean out of these filters and other sludge has helped immediately. Since my fiance has stopped putting off brand gas in it, I've started testing lower octane gas from branded stores like Texaco / Chevron. I hate buying into 'Techron' branding, but so far, so good. I've even cut back on the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and still no codes (damn, I probably just jinxed it!)
I only check this once a week or so, so if you have more questions feel free to PM me and I'll try and share all in one dump
When my 02 sensors have gone bad, I've been able to run my engine til warm/hot and look at the respective catalytic converter and see them get red hot. At 340k miles its happened more than once once on each cat.
With that said, just because its red hot, it doesn't mean the 02 sensor is bad. A couple of times its been the sensors, other times a good clean out of these filters and other sludge has helped immediately. Since my fiance has stopped putting off brand gas in it, I've started testing lower octane gas from branded stores like Texaco / Chevron. I hate buying into 'Techron' branding, but so far, so good. I've even cut back on the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and still no codes (damn, I probably just jinxed it!)
I only check this once a week or so, so if you have more questions feel free to PM me and I'll try and share all in one dump
02-04-13, 06:24 AM
#133
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Ok so with the p1349 code I changed the ocv filter, spark plugs & gave it a Mobil 1 oil change & after all that the code still popped up. After reading for weeks about this code & not wanting to waste money & time I parked my gs300 in the garage & left it there not wanting to do any more damage to the car. All the forums I read (tons of them) all said to just change the ocv valve so I took a chance & spent the $133 & ordered it from Lexus. Man I shoulda listened sooner. It's been 200 miles now & one of those trips was a 75 mile run & the car is running beautiful. To everyone with this code,,,,just change the ocv valve. Although I'm happy I changed the spark plugs cause they needed it bad. Total time for this job was about 15 minutes. If you are not mechanically inclined it would still take you less then an hour. Save yourself money & do it yourself. Just be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable so you don't short anything & this will also clear the code when u re connect the battery negative. I took pics of the whole process but unfortunately I'm too new on this forum & they won't allow me to post the pics. If you need the pics just let me know & I will forward them to an email. Thanks again to everyone on this forum, saved me a fortune & I got the satisfaction of fixing it myself. Tools needed for this job is; 10mm socket, 5mm hex head.
02-22-13, 03:48 PM
#134
This thread appears to revolved around the 2JZ or the GS300, but since I have a GS430, I would add my findings for the 3UZ. Again, I can not say whether or not this will work for 400, but this is what I found on my 430. The VVT-i is fed through a hole on the bottom of the valve. It's than plumbed up and through the valve. And if some foreign material gets in there, the valve can clog or the plunger can stick. You can try what I did, or you can just replace it. It took me about an hour total.
I went about 7k miles on an oil change, I did the oil change, and about 2 weeks later I get a CEL, VSC and VSC OFF lights on my dash, and before I could make it home, the car starts to misfire and stumble when I'm at idle, but as I raise the RPMs, it starts to smooth out, so I'm fearing the worst. I pull the codes, and I have a p0300, p0301, p0303, p0305, p0307, p1346, and p1349, needless to syay I thought the VVT-i gear had frozen. I jumped online and found some answers, but nothing as far as a DIY. All you really need is a 10mm and a pick to undue some wiring.
Driver's side VVT-i oil control valve. Remove the electrical connector and the 10mm bolt.
Carefully slide the OCV out to not gouge the aluminum or tear the o-ring.
When I pulle the OCV, the plunger was stuck about halfway. I tried to simulate it, which is why this is clean.
I freed up the plunger, hit it with PB blaster, than let it soak in gas for a while. I pulled it out, blew out all the air, and put engine assembly grease inside the valve in all the openings to make sure it slides at the first start when there's no oil in it yet.
Disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes. Re-assemble everything. It should solve your issue, if it doesn't, you will need to replace the valve. Good luck.
I went about 7k miles on an oil change, I did the oil change, and about 2 weeks later I get a CEL, VSC and VSC OFF lights on my dash, and before I could make it home, the car starts to misfire and stumble when I'm at idle, but as I raise the RPMs, it starts to smooth out, so I'm fearing the worst. I pull the codes, and I have a p0300, p0301, p0303, p0305, p0307, p1346, and p1349, needless to syay I thought the VVT-i gear had frozen. I jumped online and found some answers, but nothing as far as a DIY. All you really need is a 10mm and a pick to undue some wiring.
Driver's side VVT-i oil control valve. Remove the electrical connector and the 10mm bolt.
Carefully slide the OCV out to not gouge the aluminum or tear the o-ring.
When I pulle the OCV, the plunger was stuck about halfway. I tried to simulate it, which is why this is clean.
I freed up the plunger, hit it with PB blaster, than let it soak in gas for a while. I pulled it out, blew out all the air, and put engine assembly grease inside the valve in all the openings to make sure it slides at the first start when there's no oil in it yet.
Disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes. Re-assemble everything. It should solve your issue, if it doesn't, you will need to replace the valve. Good luck.