cmara2k9

Is the oil control valve and the vvti solenoid the same thing because i was told i need a new vvti solenoid but its sounding like the oil control valve is the same part

Can someone chime in i just wanna make sure i ask for the right part

az-dave

Its the same thing. The Solenoid is permanently attached to the valve.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

sorta, i dont think our OCV looks the same but we still have a OCV which should have a screen on it of some sorts....we can have this same issue though. im having codes P1346B AND P1349B as of today. im assuming these are bank 2 for passenger side,is that correct?

will this work for the v-8 models also?

thanks for this video but im confused. whats the difference in the OCV and the ECV? i didnt see ANYTHING on the ALLDATA about the ECV valve....just the OCV valve course the ALLDATA said you had to remove the timing belt and engine cover to replace it but i think they were referring to the VVT sensors and not the OCV valve.

i had been looking on on these PDF's from lextreme http://www.lextreme.com/forums/3uzfe.pdf
and from v-eight.com http://www.v-eight.com/multimedia/pdf/3uzfe_vvti.pdf and it show

shows to be a easy fix but we'll see.....im gonan try and clean it tonight and see what happens. twice today the CEL has started flashing which i know is bad but i been at dr's offices all day so im gonna limp it their and then clean this.


thinking about this and though and looking at this picture from the bottom of post # 59

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...d-vsc-ocv1.jpg

i dunno if they OCV on the v8 is the same or if it can be cleaned. i will find out tonight though

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

Yep try cleaning it first and save some money. The reason why they get clogged because of oil contamination. I dont care what people say I still change my oil/filter before 4k miles on synthetic.

az-dave

The OCV filter would only get clogged from oil contamination...nothing can really get past it, since its a super-fine stainless steel mesh.

As for changing oil every 4,000K on Synthetic...I have a whole thread on that. I have over 251K miles on my car...after 50,000 miles I have changed the oil once every 50,000 miles. changing the filter every 5,000 miles and adding same brand synthetic to top the oil off...usually about 1.5 qts.

My OCV filter at 248K miles had absolutely no gunk. I also replaced my valve cover gaskets, exposing the cam and lifters...absolutely clean. At 225K miles I replaced the rear main seal, front main seal and oil pan Gasket...bottom end No gunk, and clean.

My Tranny actually started going out at 225K miles, I did tranny flushes every 50,000 miles as suggested by Lexus, and the tranny went, while my old engine still purrs like a kitten...

So...with that said...why change expensive Synthetic oil at 4,000 miles when Lexus manual suggests more?

Im not suggesting other people do this, but this is my 3rd car doing this to, and all 3 went past 200,000 miles with no engine damage.

Anyway...if the OCV filter is plugged...ya gots some problems my friends...and im betting if its plugged...Penzoil or Castro GT were used for changes every 5000-6000 miles...Ive seen it on dozens of cars who thought they were maintaining their vehicles.

Valvoline 100% Syn, Mobile One 100% Syn, or Royol Purple or Amsoil 100% syn...nothing else touches any of my vehicles.

Mobile One or K&N oil filter only...nothing else.

az-dave

Hey Sak:

The procedures for testing the OCV should work the same for V8 as well, since its the same basic system, just controlling 2 cams instead of one.

As for cleaning the OCV, not really an option, and I will explain why: Its a very simple plunger style valve operating by an electric solenoid, before oil ever gets to the OCV it passes thru the OCV filter, which is extremely fine S.S. mesh. Basically nothing can really get inside the OCV valve itself to clog it up...so if its not woking, its almost certainly the solenoid.

Replacing the OCV requires no removal of timing belt, just the top timing cover and one small bolt. The connector latch like to break when disconnecting the solenoid, but its so tight it doesnt matter.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

well the last few days have been a debacle and a PITA....i took both these out and cleaned them since i looked at alldata and i couldnt find out what the B on the end of the code meant (i thought it was signifying bank 2 but according to the alldata codes P1346 and P1349 WERE BANK ONE (so does anyone know what the B on the end signifies?)

anyways i took some pics while i did all this

it all started out with this





i then removed the drivers side one (bank one) for a cleaning, i now understand what OP was saying when he said this

yes the actual filter is encased inside the valve or as the dealer calls it the VALVE ASSEMBLY, CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL. but this valve can still be cleaned, just not as functionally as the gs300's can be

BTW V-8 GUYS yes gs400 and gs430 use the same part #'s
part # for drivers side 153400F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)
part # for passenger side 153300F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)


in this picture below i break it down just for you visual guys or DIY guys

remove the valve cover (2 10mm bolts)

DRIVERS SIDE






the green arrow is the 10mm bolt that holds the OCV valve into the cam cover area
the blue arrow is the plug that the OCV plugs into (BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN UNPLUGGING THIS AS ITS ONLY 2 WIRES AND THEY CAN/WILL RIP LIKE THE GUY IN THE V8 VIDEO AND MYSELF'S DID)
the red arrow is where the OCV or valve assembly fits in....nothing else needs to be removed just kind of jiggle it out. reassembly is the same, it ONLY goes in one way



this is the OEM drivers side OCV removed and physically it doesnt look bad, no sludging or anything on it. i run full synthetic oil and i change it every 8k, i also do oil analysis which all show it to be fine. regardless i cleaned them with some aerosol brake cleaner which still didnt get much off of them







now the passenger side i had some more issues with when i went to unplug it, the wires pulled out of it....i have a DIY on how to fix this correctly just a little l8r down.






the green arrow is the 10mm bolt that holds the OCV valve into the cam cover area
the blue arrow is the plug that the OCV plugs into (AGAIN BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN UNPLUGGING SO IT DOESNT RIP)
the red arrow is where the OCV or valve assembly fits in....again nothing else needs to be removed just kind of jiggle it out. reassembly is the same, it ONLY goes in one way







here is the passenger side removed with the new plug.i ripped the wires out when removing this plug and i had started to unpin the old one to new pin them back together when i realized in their junk room they had a few toyota harness on the wall so i clipped off a plug and ended up resoldering the wires back





i cleaned BOTH mine, repaired the ripped wire and reinstalled them, borrowed my mechanics SPX scanner i really like (they have several different ones but this is my fav to use)






and cleared the codes. started the car up, ran fine, no CEL, no vibration at low idle and no shuddering either. i reved it a handful of times, took it around the block and then brought it back and let it sit running for the next 10 mins or so while i cleaned up my mess.....drove the car into the bay and lifted it up to install my TRD lower brace. Got that installed, left the work and headed to my night job to pick up something which is about 10-15 miles away. So car has now been on for about 30 minutes and driven about 10-15 miles without any issues. right as im pulling into the parking lot of work i got not just a CEL but a flashing CEL (which means i have a severe misfire going on) i pulled into the parking lot and hooked the scanner back up (i borrowed it from him) all i got was this one lone code P1349B.i reset the code and when i started it back up it didnt blink just stayed solid





so cleaning DIDNT fix mine but i have some used ones from a GS400 coming in today and i will try and see if this fixes them., if not i will dive further into looking into this.......i did notice when the car has sat for awhile and is cold it has NO issues even with the CEL on but when it gets warmed up and has been driven for a minute thats when it will develop the low end ( at a stop light) shake if i come to a stop sign or a stop light and i put it in neutral it seems to behave better but i have really been nursing this car waiting on my parts

i will update when i get everything installed

see all i use is mobil one full synthetic and i been experimenting with these purolater oil filters for the last year or so BUT my oil analysis have been good so far so i dunno what caused this. i just changed oil about 800 miles ago and since i only send every other one of for analysis i didnt send this one which now i wish i had

yeah the alldata was referring to the VVTi sensor for removing the timing belt btw the V8's require removing ONLY the engine cover nothing else to access these





IF YOU RIP YOUR PLUG (V-8 GUYS) THIS INFO IS FOR YOU



THE ATTACHMENT BELOW THIS POST IS FOR THE VISUAL GS430 GUYS AND A WRITE UP IS ALSO BELOW FOR THE OTHER GUYS



there is a attachment on here which shows you the postive/negative side of the plug and the actual plug itself (2nd page of the attachment) but let me break it down even easier for those of you who need a little extra help

were gonna start with the drivers side plug which is gonna be plug C-3. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-3 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the BLUE/YELLOW wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-3 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the GREEN/WHITE wire from the car

now the passenger side (the one i ripped) which is gonna be plug C-4. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-4 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the BLUE/WHITE wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-4 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the BLUE/BLACK wire from the car


IF YOU RIP YOUR PLUG (GS400 GUYS) NO ATTACHMENT INCLUDED BUT HERE IS A SIMPLE WRITE UP BELOW OF HOW TO CORRECTLY WIRE IT BACK


the drivers side plug is gonna be plug C-3. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-3 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the WHITE/GREEN wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-3 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the YELLOW/ORANGE (OR RED)wire from the car CANT TELL COLOR WITHOUT THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS ITS FADED

the passenger side is gonna be plug C-4. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-4 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the WHITE/RED (OR PINK) wire from the car CANT TELL COLOR WITHOUT THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS ITS FADED. The right tab # 2 of the C-4 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the BLUE/BLACK wire from the car




Drivers Side OCV Valve From A Gs400










Passenger Side OCV Valve From A Gs400











ONLY NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE IN THEM.OEM GS400 ON THE LEFT AND OEM GS430 ON THE RIGHT only real difference is the one on the left has a small C styled clip inside the tip and the one on the right is solid. i believe since they now use the same part # any new ones from a dealer will look like the one on the right







............

az-dave

Now THAT is an awesome post. The funny thing is that the Valve you took a pic of looks identical to the valve I replaced in my GS300, and didnt see any filter mechanism.

My car also would idle fine cold, then when warm go crazy...I think that solenoid shorts and when it gets hot it completely shorts out. Nice Post!

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

thanks,im grateful to the OP for originally starting this post and giving me some insite when it happened to me (which im still puzzled over, my only thought is the valve def shorted since my oil changes on synthetic are religious at 8k and all my oil analysis are good so i cant see it "clogging" this screen i cant seem to find....unless its internally in that valve).

im gonna have to tweak my post a little bit when i get some time this week as the gs400's wiring IS different but i have the breakdown for that also in case a gs400 owner rips his wiring. the gs400/gs430 although they now use the same Part # def used a different OCV originally (although im sure the newer one is just a updated part), only externally noticed ONE difference (when i get some time and upload the pics i will come back to this) anyways its been 2 days and all is well again (<knock on woods> no CEL) . nice idle at 800 RPM with no shudder

still wanting to know what the B stands for in the CEL code though....

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

OK, fixed post with the correct wiring for the gs400, i will update again with some more pics sometime this coming week. all is good with my car again btw

az-dave

I think the "B" in the code that your reading may simply be a Letter that the particular scanner your using shows. Not 100%, but thats my hunch.

As for the screen on the 400's, it simply may not exist, since the oil line is internal, or the oil to the 400/430's OCV valve may come directly from filtered oil the main oil filter output via the internal oil line...Or...they may have a screen located somewhere else that is not accessible (such as requiring to take the oil pan off, or timing belt off to access the OCV filter)

My filter was perfectly clean at 245K miles, so I think the filters dont clog up very often if ever...and maybe Lexus did some research and decided it wasnt really required and omitted from the 400/430 design? One thing for sure, its not inside the valve, that plunger with the machined rings is the entire valve, it simply moves in/out at various positions to allow more/less oil to pass thru, I took the snap ring off my original and took it completely apart.

Anyone know? It is interesting.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

Thats probably with on some GS has noisy valves cuz oil is not passing through enough?

az-dave

The OCV Valve only changes the oil pressure to the inside of the VVTi CamShaft, not to the valves. It doesnt lubricate anything.

So a bad OCV valve would not cause the valves, cams, etc to become noisy...if ya got that problem, the OCV is the least of your probs.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

FINALLY made some time and uploaded the rest of the pics and the only comparison pic that matters....

az-dave

Thats the exact same valve as the GS300, the old one had a snap-ring and the new one had the smaller end fitting. No filters in there. Just a bad solenoid.

I took my old one apart several times, cleaned, etc etc, hoping it was just a sticky plunger. But it was a solenoid that failed once it got hot.

As for a filter on the GS400...must not be one, or its inaccessible. Either way, thanks for the update. And Thanks for the pics!