P1349 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 1b) blocked oil control valve filter
03-21-11, 04:25 PM
#47
Read all the posts from the entire Thread, Starting with Jason T's first Post - if your not sure where it is after reading Jason T's first post, looking at the diagrams, and then the rest of the Posts, take it in to a shop.
04-08-11, 10:34 AM
#49
Here is the Procedure for testing the entire VVti System. Did you do this before replacing the OCV valve itself?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/6150886-post36.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/6150886-post36.html
06-13-11, 05:53 AM
#51
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VVT on a 1999 ES 300
I replaced mine and it cleared up the codes. They are located at the end of the heads, there are 2. Easy-Peasy to replace. Get them through toyota!!! Just provide the VIN #. I got one from Lexus and it was $248.00, I got one from Toyota [nobody told me there were 2....] and it was $109.00!! Same part, different box!! I was an easy fix. Use seafoam in the crank case afterwards to keep things clean.
07-18-11, 09:59 AM
#53
Tony,
The Filter is located behind the Oil Line and Union Bolt labeled 55 (550,41) on the 3rd Diagram down on the first page. There is also a red oval and line pointing to where the filter is.
Most likely your filter is good and its the OCV valve, if the filter is clogged youve got so much gunk in the engine there are probably other problems going on as well. My filter was 100% clean with 245K miles on my car, same code, and ended up being the OCV valve.
Getting to the filter requires removing the Union Bolt and a small 10mm bolt holding the oil tube to a bracket, and then bending the Oil tube out of the way to reach in and get the filter out...be careful. The filter is behind the top Oil tube Union Bolt, not the lower one. The lower one is not easily accessible due to the PS pump and alternator.
The Filter is located behind the Oil Line and Union Bolt labeled 55 (550,41) on the 3rd Diagram down on the first page. There is also a red oval and line pointing to where the filter is.
Most likely your filter is good and its the OCV valve, if the filter is clogged youve got so much gunk in the engine there are probably other problems going on as well. My filter was 100% clean with 245K miles on my car, same code, and ended up being the OCV valve.
Getting to the filter requires removing the Union Bolt and a small 10mm bolt holding the oil tube to a bracket, and then bending the Oil tube out of the way to reach in and get the filter out...be careful. The filter is behind the top Oil tube Union Bolt, not the lower one. The lower one is not easily accessible due to the PS pump and alternator.
07-18-11, 10:01 AM
#54
Oh yeah, dont loose the 2 aluminum washers that go on each side of the Oil tube connector - when you remove the Union Bolt they tend to stick to the oil pipe for a few seconds, but will eventually slide off...you loose them and you will have catastrophic oil leak.
07-25-11, 09:04 AM
#57
Uhhhh 
Do you get oil changes every 5-10K miles?
If your talking about oil flushes they are NOT a great idea in general, and are only required for engines that havnt been properly maintained IMHO. if your running good quality oil and doing regular oil/filter changes the 2JZGE engine is a fairly sludge-free engine.
09-12-11, 10:22 AM
#58
Little Update on my situation.
After replacing the OCV Valve and making sure the OCV filter was clean, I also did a large repair requiring me to remove the entire intake manifold and intake tubes and fuel injectors. This was because the brass Intake Resonator Valve (which is past the throttle body) broke and a few small pieces went into the cylinders, the bulk of the brass valve place was sitting just in front of the intake ports. I tested all cyliders for compression and the valve for seating.
Im still having intermittent rough idle episodes, but no OCV codes, the only codes Im throwing are "Bank 1 too lean"...I think its one or 2 Fuel injectors starting to go bad.
Reason Im posting here, is that all three of these problems coexisted, and the OCV thing solved part but not all of the problem. So if you replace the OCV valve and the idle improves but isnt perfect, start looking at the fuel injectors or ignition.
Replacing the OCV valve improved my rough idle by better than 50%...probably 75%. I just dread removing everything to get back to the injectors....the gasoline vapor canister is a major pain the rear to remove and install under the intake tubes...6 completely blind, hard to access nuts and the canister must be removed first!
After replacing the OCV Valve and making sure the OCV filter was clean, I also did a large repair requiring me to remove the entire intake manifold and intake tubes and fuel injectors. This was because the brass Intake Resonator Valve (which is past the throttle body) broke and a few small pieces went into the cylinders, the bulk of the brass valve place was sitting just in front of the intake ports. I tested all cyliders for compression and the valve for seating.
Im still having intermittent rough idle episodes, but no OCV codes, the only codes Im throwing are "Bank 1 too lean"...I think its one or 2 Fuel injectors starting to go bad.
Reason Im posting here, is that all three of these problems coexisted, and the OCV thing solved part but not all of the problem. So if you replace the OCV valve and the idle improves but isnt perfect, start looking at the fuel injectors or ignition.
Replacing the OCV valve improved my rough idle by better than 50%...probably 75%. I just dread removing everything to get back to the injectors....the gasoline vapor canister is a major pain the rear to remove and install under the intake tubes...6 completely blind, hard to access nuts and the canister must be removed first!
11-06-11, 09:52 PM
#59
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Thought I'd pass on my experience with the Oil Control Valve.
I have a 2002 IS300 with 154,000 mi. The symptom is exactly as many other describe: after the car warms up, the idle becomes very rough, the car coughs on itself, the Engine light comes on as well as the Trac Light and VSC light kicks on. These are red herrings and a result of the code P1349 VVT.
I tried cleaning the filter but this did not fix the problem. Next, I pulled out the OCV and took a small screwdriver and pushed the solenoid back and forth to make sure it was not sticking, replaced it, problem fixed!
I intend to replace the OCV anyway since it's just $127 from the Lexus dealer and takes just 15 mins to replace.
Others elsewhere in the forum have asked where this part is in the car. On the IS300 (2002) I removed the engine cover (four 12mm nuts) and then removed the four hex screws from the VVT valve cover. Once this plastic valve cover is removed, you'll see the OCV which is identified as having a plug with two wires going into it. It has a large bolt that requires a 7/8 inch wrench to remove to clean the filter. But to replace the valve, unscrew the 12mm bolt at the top and then use a large flat-blade screwdriver to gently spread the distance between the housing and the valve. There's an O-ring that causes the valve to not just slip out--you have to sort of tug it out against the friction of the O-ring. Once out, clean, check for stickiness, and better yet--replace with a new one. --Dan
I have a 2002 IS300 with 154,000 mi. The symptom is exactly as many other describe: after the car warms up, the idle becomes very rough, the car coughs on itself, the Engine light comes on as well as the Trac Light and VSC light kicks on. These are red herrings and a result of the code P1349 VVT.
I tried cleaning the filter but this did not fix the problem. Next, I pulled out the OCV and took a small screwdriver and pushed the solenoid back and forth to make sure it was not sticking, replaced it, problem fixed!
I intend to replace the OCV anyway since it's just $127 from the Lexus dealer and takes just 15 mins to replace.
Others elsewhere in the forum have asked where this part is in the car. On the IS300 (2002) I removed the engine cover (four 12mm nuts) and then removed the four hex screws from the VVT valve cover. Once this plastic valve cover is removed, you'll see the OCV which is identified as having a plug with two wires going into it. It has a large bolt that requires a 7/8 inch wrench to remove to clean the filter. But to replace the valve, unscrew the 12mm bolt at the top and then use a large flat-blade screwdriver to gently spread the distance between the housing and the valve. There's an O-ring that causes the valve to not just slip out--you have to sort of tug it out against the friction of the O-ring. Once out, clean, check for stickiness, and better yet--replace with a new one. --Dan
VVT system malfunction (bank 1)
Probable cause
1. Valve timing off
2. Blocked oil passage
3. Failed oil control valve
4. Electrical circuit fault
After reading this thread I decided to buy the ECV (Engine Control Valve) from Lexus $121 plus tax and change it out myself. The toughest part of the job was getting the connector off of the valve. I broke the plastic connector by pulling too hard. But I was able to use a plastic tie to keep it secure once I replaced the valve. As Dan said only one hex bolt to remove then I was able to jiggle the ECV out under some other wires that were on top without having to unplug any other connectors. .. The new ECV went in just as easy and fixed my problem.
Thanks for all the info here. Much appreciated.
Here's a video of the location.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKqID0E0F80
Bank 1 ECV is on the left. of this photo.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...d-vsc-ocv1.jpg
Last edited by TPSTulane; 11-06-11 at 10:07 PM.
11-07-11, 07:30 AM
#60